Scud

I've been struck by the number of "reverse negotiations" I've been involved in with forum members. What do I mean? Well, a "normal" negotiation is where the seller tries to get the highest possible price and the buyer tries to get the lowest possible price. Both as a buyer and seller, I've been involved in reverse negotiations that go kind of like this. Seller: I'd like $XX for this part. Buyer: $XX is not nearly enough for that. You could sell it for more. Let me give you $XX+ Seller: OK, but only if you will also accept this extra bit, which would go nicely with it. Buyer: You really don't have to do that, but I would appreciate it. What else can I do for you? Seller: Can't think of anything right now - "pay it forward" to somebody else. I've also been involved in plenty of "normal" negotiations - and those have all been respectful. Apparently, Guzzi owners have a reputation for being cheap. Maybe that's true when shopping retail, but I sure don't see cheapness between members here. I just wanted to point out how cool this community is.

Roy, I think that's part of it. Here's my understanding of the main benefits/functions: Sloppage - the plate provides a ceiling for the oil at the back of the sump. This stops the oil from rushing way up the back of the engine, which could expose the oil pickup. This is most likely to happen on hard acceleration, wheelies, going up steep grades, or some combination thereof. Windage - the plate contains most of the splashing oil, which reduces the amount of oil that can escape through the breather system. Oil capacity - the plate itself does not increase the capacity of the sump - but it allows you to put more oil in the sump without worrying about excess windage. More oil = slower breakdown of the molecules. Coolness - self-explanatory. Resale value - see JB's comments at the start of this thread. Pete shipped me more plates than I asked for. I think I have 4 still available - but I am waiting on gaskets before I can ship kits.

I think we need to see a new thread documenting whatever you're doing to this motorcycle. Sounds like you've been busy? You have some "before" pics? And some process pics? I'm going to want to paint my engine soon too - interested in what you learn doing yours. There was some sort of problem with the 2002 engine paint. I think a lot of people got new cases under warranty. The problem was only the fuzzy paint in 2002 on the engine - for some reason, it seems to hold up well on tranny and final drive - at least that's been my experience.

Try the V11LeMans.com brick thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19273&hl=

Bummer - after escaping one the worst fires in recent memory your bike gets abused by a negligent driver. But sounds like the damage is manageable, especially if you imagine what could have happened if it tipped.

JC - your 2002 bike does not use the "sausages" (I like calling them that) under the seat. It would have come new in the US with the canister as in the illustration in the Harper's link I posted above. I happen to have three of them - two I'm keeping with the bikes they belong to, but one was removed from a 2002 LeMans that I got for parts (it was wrecked). I dug it out and took a picture for you. It is still connected to the exhaust hanger, exactly the way I removed it from the bike. The large hose goes to the tank vent. A small hose goes from the open nipple to a T then to both throttle bodies. I sent you a PM in case you are interested in this. Personally, I felt comfortable removing the unit because I believe they don't do much (if anything). Saving a pint of fuel in 100 miles would make me think about reinstalling it. Can you let me know where you got that information? By the way - 2002 and earlier models have an external fuel pump. It's on the frame, under the tank. They switched to internal fuel pumps in 2003. I felt similarly about my 2003 LeMans - it needed a lot of help and I shook my head in amazement several times. I documented my (mis)adventures with it in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18967&hl= It's been frustrating at times - but they are wonderful bikes once sorted out. Keep the faith!

So far it's been smooth sailing. ...and the first three plates have been dispatched without gaskets - two Tonti plates and one on the way to a dealer to catch a motorcycle mid-service. Hopefully, I can ship most of the rest next week when the gaskets come in. ======================== In addition to the install thread I linked to above, here's the basic install process. It has 12 steps to help with our curious form of addiction: Drain oil. Remove lower sump (pan). Remove sidestand. Remove upper sump (ring) and internal pipes where the filter goes. Install plate between upper sump ring and block - use 2 gaskets to sandwich the plate - note that surface imperfections on plate will not be a problem, the gaskets will fill any minor scratches. Install gaskets dry - no glue. Take a picture of your dipstick, notice how much it sticks through the plate, think about using more oil than the factory recommendation. Install oil filter - determine whether you are "security-hose-clamp" or "turns-past-contact" kind of guy. Install lower sump pan and gasket. Fill oil. Elongate lower hole in sidestand bracket. The plate mounts between the brackets' two holes, therefore the lower hole should be enlarged downward by about the thickness of the plate. Install sidestand. Go WOT up the nearest mountain.

Seems that for riders who do use the rear brake regularly, the 4-piston caliper would be helpful. More surface area = longer pad life and more heat dissipation. I'm switching to DOT 5.1 fluid for all brakes as extra insurance. It has a higher boiling point than the DOT 4. To the riding style point: the shortest stopping distances are recorded when the bike does a mild stoppie - with the rear wheel in the air. Obviously, the rear brake provides 0% of stopping power if there's no tire contact to the street. But these tests are done in controlled environments. On the street, with potential potholes, sand, oil, etc. it makes sense to use some rear brake. I'd much rather risk locking up the rear than the front. To Andy's earlier point about regarding mountain riding, I do worry about overheating my front brakes in the mountains, and it's not just the grade of the road. For example, the orange section in the attached image represents a 900 foot descent in 1 mile. That's a 17% grade. The entire highlighted route represents a one mile vertical descent in 15 miles (that's net and excludes all the in-between ups and downs). It's not just the steepness, but the corners (where I do some trail braking) that concern me - and the frequency and duration of them. This kind of twistiness goes on for 100 miles. So I push it a while, then take it easy a while - thinking that this will cool the brakes. BTW as for another preventative technique re rear brake: I find that the engine slows the rear wheel plenty and I don't need the rear brake much.

Here we have a stack of plates. They don't weigh much independently, but dang... they sure get heavy when you pile 'em up. All nice and official with motomoda Australia etched right in them - along with a phone number. So if you forget the number to Pete's dealership, just take your engine apart, and there it is...

When Chuck, Rox, and I rode the Santa Monica Mountains recently (with subsequent visit to Todd's GuzziTech shop in Malibu), Rox did lose rear brake pressure (and it came right back after cooling). Todd said he frequently loses rear brake pressure in the mountains. There are some seriously long and steep climbs/descents. Riding style is probably part of it. I tend to go heavy on the front brake and think of the rear sort of like an emergency brake. I've never lost front or rear brake pressure. But I couldn't keep up with Rox while descending Tuna Canyon, and I'm pretty sure Todd would leave us both far behind. I posted this image before, but for context, here's Tuna Canyon: an 1,800 foot drop in 4 miles. Single-lane, one-way, downhill only - no risk of encountering opposing traffic. This kind of terrain will give any bike's brakes a workout - and send the V11's oil sloshing backward during full-throttle ascents. (see Roper Plate for solution to that)

I think almost everything on the list above is readily available from Harpers, MG Cycle, or other dealer. Foot levers will be aftermarket from Harpers. However, the matching valve cover will be hard to find. If it's only scratched, you'd be better off having the pair powdercoated. If one is damaged from the fall, buy a used one in any color, then powdercoat the good pair. For "tip-over-protector" consider aftermarket parts that stick out farther and offer more protection to the plug. I got a pair from MotoBits, posted a pic of it here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19319&page=9

Here's a thread documenting installation, including Pete's opinion about proper oil level - just below the plate. It has some good discussion about what the plate does and why you might want one (or in Rox's case, two). http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8985 -------------- Update on the kits - as Pete posted above, the plates are on the way to the US. MG Cycle shipped to me today, but they only had enough gaskets to do 20 kits now - balance available within 2 weeks. Once I get everything in, I'll ship in this order: Tonti plates (I am not supplying gaskets for these and don't have to wait for anything else) Anyone who sends me a message and says they have urgent need (such as bike is currently in service) Order of payments I received

The Harper site is year and model specific too - that diagram is from a 2002 LeMans and is the same as on my 02 and 03 bikes. On the early, red sauce frame models the sausages canisters mount under the seat and there is spaghetti hose everywhere. One nipple under the tank is a drain for rain water or spilled fuel. The other is a vent so air can replace the spent fuel.

I often use Harper's website for diagrams. Here is the link directly to the system in question: http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-le-mans-1100-2002/fuel-vapour-recover-system-en-v11-lemans-1100-2002.html Note that the diagram doesn't show exactly how it mounts on the bike - the canister (part #12) goes in a bracket (part #18) - which in turn mounts inside the exhaust hanger. After that you just route hoses to the tank and the throttle bodies. FWIW - I removed the whole system from both my bikes and I don't smell gas in my garage.

I would love to tour Europe on a motorcycle someday (with a stop in Mandello del Lario). That sound like a cool trip. I've done a few 1,000 mile +/- weekends on a V11. I think my longest single day was close to 600 miles. That was on my Scura; San Diego to San Jose. It took me about 12 hours. The first 100 miles was all slab to get past Los Angeles - then Highway 1 (Pacific Coast Highway) and lots of other twisty backroads. I get tired/sore on the V11 when going straight - but not so tired when there are lots of corners and I can move around on the seat. By contrast - I did a two-day round trip to Phoenix recently on my BMW. It was much more comfortable, but that trip was probably 70% slab and 30% fun roads. I was not sore at all; that thing is super-comfy and it doesn't even know how to vibrate.

Welcome. Good decision - although I feel bad for the neglect your BMW is about to get. Some models came with the windscreen, as mine did. You could try someplace Harpers Moto Guzzi for a new OEM one. I've seen some aftermarket carbon fiber ones that look great. You could try placing a wanted ad here too - maybe somebody's got one laying around.

That's great. I was able to catch MG Cycle before they shipped - and increased my gasket order. Current Status: Two more V11 plate/gasket kits are available through me. Pete therefore has 8 more available directly from him.

It's a uniquely styled bike for sure. Some love it, others hate it (I've read some very witty scathing comments about it's appearance). When I bought my Scura, the dealer also had a Centauro available, a dark green one. He suggested I ride it, but I just couldn't get past the low seat and the overall look of it. I guess it is a muscle-bike, or power-cruiser - but that genre has never been appealing to me. I now wish I had at least taken it for a spin so I would know how that motor performs. But something to consider for the project: The Centauro is a rare and unusual motorcycle. It might be worth ensuring that all mods are reversible - and keeping the stock parts so it could be restored in future if you (or someone else) wants it to be a Centauro again.

What Footgoose said. Same for me when comparing to my (ex) R1100RT. But the original K-bikes (the flying bricks, like Victor has) are unusual enough to be interesting - and their durability/reliability is exceptional. That being said, no motorcyclist who visits my garage wants to talk about the BMW first. They laser in on the Guzzis and say "OMG what are THOSE?" (except, of course the dirt bikers would rather talk about the Husky). Czakky - Having just installed the FBF crossover and took it on a little ride today, I'd say there are some differences, but my butt-dyno is not so finely calibrated as some. Impressions include: Better manners at constant slow speed, such as 2nd gear below 3,000 RPM. I think the occasional 3,000 RPM hiccup I had may be gone, but much more testing is required before rendering a conclusion. Possibly a bit smoother throughout the rev range - like a flatter torque curve. It howls at 5,500-7,000. It did that before, but maybe the howl is a little throatier (less muffled) now. None of these differences are big. Just little things that seem to better.

Very weird. I figured it would be a 10 minute job. Old Ti pipes off, new Ti pipes on... but I couldn't get them to slide more than about 1/2 inch over the crossover outlets. However, they went easily over the FBF. I still don't have them positioned equally and haven't figured out how to aim them differently. My left one is hanging a little higher than my right one. Yes, I'm still talking about my motorcycle. The take-offs are already packaged up for Czakky. Sorry. Just got back from a short loop, and yes, they sound great, especially under hard throttle uphill. But they are not obnoxious - I could still hear the Harley (with stock pipes).

Yeah, Curtis Harper answered the phone when I called to order. They had quite a few kits. I asked how they got them - apparently, several boxes were mislabeled in the Moto Guzzi warehouse. Harpers bought as many as they could and passed a long a good deal. They all sold within about a week. I'm going for a putt with one of my Harley buddies today. Gonna boast about my luscious exhaust note and denigrate his potato-potato-potato.

Sounds like a great trip, starting with a nice truck upgrade. How many miles on the Centauro? It looks a great bike to enjoy over the summer as-is while you think about your project. Turning that into something like a Daytona or your own version of a sports bike looks like fun. I really like those four examples.

I got my new Titanium mufflers on today (after sitting in a box for a long time...) Also installed the FBF crossover that I found a while ago. I was just going to put the pipes on, not the crossover, but I couldn't get the fit on the stock crossover (too tight).

Observations, measurements, isolating variables, reporting findings for the benefit of the community... this sounds suspiciously like science.