Scud

Thanks guys, for the input so far. I am not certain that the gauge is accurate. I had a different gauge and pressure sender on previously - all parts from Speedhut. The prior one had a fault and would not read low pressures, but it showed much higher pressures at operating temperatures than I'm getting with the new gauge. The new gauge (which I paid extra to upgrade to) is supposed to be more accurate. My opening post is what I remember from my short ride last evening, but I think I will take a pen and paper out for a little "research expedition." Empiricism shall prevail... One more bit of info: before replacing the stock sender unit, I did notice some flickering of the stock oil warning light at hot idle. @stuart - What oil are you using? What are your other bikes? Maybe add them to your profile? Enquiring minds want to know...

Now that I have a functional oil pressure gauge on the LeMans, I'd like to know if my pressure readings make sense. As I understand it, oil flow is what we should truly be concerned about, but since that is hard to measure, oil pressure serves as an indicator of oil flow. Here's the data: Cold Start: Cold idle at about 1,200 RPM: about 15+PSI After the bike warms up: Idle: about 3 to 4 PSI Steady speeds around 4,000 RPM: about 12 to 16 PSI Accelerating: peak pressure about 25 PSI Oil: Maxima 10w-40 ProPlus 100% synthetic (10-40 is specified in 2003 manual) - I used a full gallon at the recent oil change, and the oil level is a bit higher than the dipstick "full" mark. My cause for concern is that the pressure seems very low at hot idle - but since there is SOME pressure, there must also be oil flow. On my first ride with the new gauge, and my first stop for a traffic signal after the motor was fully warmed up, I noticed the pressure gauge needle dropped nearly to zero at idle - which made me nervous. But I can tell that it is registering something (3-4 PSI) and it bumps up with the slightest blip to the throttle. FWIW - I put maybe 500-800 miles on while I was between gauges - so It's been working, but now I am just trying to understand the readings. Questions: Does it seem that I have any cause for concern? Is the big drop at idle between cold and hot because of the multi-viscosity of the oil? Would 20w-50 oil increase pressure slightly? Does anyone run 20w-50 (or thicker) oil in a 2003 or later motor? Correction/Edit: The 2003 manual calls for 5W-40 oil, even thinner.

In another thread, PDoz just recommended a cable repair kit to thread new wire into the throttle cable sheath in case of breakage. Thought I'd cross reference it here along with a link to a kit: http://www.amazon.com/Gear-Gremlin-GG150-Cable-Repair/dp/B008U9HO0C/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=06330BBBHS3NNTWX18GT This is certainly a "fix it on the road" item.

That's a great idea to carry. I just bought one to stash under-seat. http://www.amazon.com/Gear-Gremlin-GG150-Cable-Repair/dp/B008U9HO0C/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=06330BBBHS3NNTWX18GT Docc - You are like a one-man tourism and visitor's bureau... always pointing out the unique charms and recreational opportunities available in "Middle Tennessee."

I just replaced the throttle cable on my LeMans yesterday. It had a rough spot from a broken strand - and it was bent at the bracket near the throttle body, because it had been under tension from high bars. I could occasionally feel the rough spot when twisting or releasing the throttle. I put well over 1,000 miles on it after I noticed it (not sure how long it was like that). It was still moving freely - never got stuck on the rough spot. To your question - no idea about the soldering, but if it's similar to my experience, I think you will be fine as-is for a few hundred miles. Is there a dealer along the (hopefully winding) route you plan to take? Maybe you can grab a spare on the way.

Got the gauges installed again today after the above-referenced rework. Here's the oil pressure sender that goes with the upgraded gauge. It's much smaller and I mounted it with an elbow to keep the wires away from the cylinder fins. This one comes with a wire with quick-disconnect plugs. I also got the remote button option for the tach and speedo so there would not be any holes in the glass. The button is only needed once for the tach (to calibrate to match the pulse per revolution signal) so I did not install the button for that. But I did install the button for the speedo - because it resets the trip meter. I drilled a hole near where the trip reset knob used to be. And here's a look with the bars turned to the left. I used the logos from Chamberlin and copied all his other style choices too. However, I did make the eagle bigger, because I didn't get the extra lights in the gauges, and I asked Speedhut to reverse the eagle on the tach so they face each other. The oil pressure gauge is mounted to the fairing and doesn't turn, so it looks crooked in the picture - but all the gauges are level when the bars are straight.

I got the Hyperpro fitted and test-ridden. As you can see by the photo, it only takes two bolts to install the shock... nothing to it. Oh, you have to remove a few things to get access to the two bolts.... Very pleased with a quick 40 mile test run. The bike feels more stable and predictable. The rear wheel maintained contact over some sections that I know caused it to lose contact with the Sachs shock. I should have weighed the two shocks - but I am sure the Hyperpro weighs less, partly because there is no reservoir. The shock came with good instructions and a sheet with a summary of all the data I provided when they built the shock. The spring was pre-set and so was the damping. I did measure sag after installing the shock and it was correct (sag specs were also on the data sheet). It seems everyone has their own method of measuring sag. Hyperpro recommended measuring only hanging free and riderless - not a third measurement with rider and gear. I was able to take those measurements by myself.

To remove shift lever: Disconnect shift linkage from lever. Remove nut from the end of the pivot bolt - this is the "trick" - the pivot bolt goes through the "shield" (aka porkchop) to a tab on the frame. The pivot bolt threads into that tab, then a nut goes over the end of the pivot bolt's exposed threads to lock it in place. I used a socket on a long extension with a u-joint to access it from the RH side - all the way through the bike. Once the retaining nut is off, the rest is easy. Then remove the pivot bolt (allen wrench) and the shift lever will slide right out.

Nicely done - and nice teamwork. The Guzzi has turned you into an electrician... How many Stews does it take to reverse a light bulb?

Here's a sub-1,000 mile, "collector quality" Rosso Corsa for over $9,000: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/mcd/5092216126.html

I use the same Garmin 60-series (a handheld) in a cradle on multiple motorcycles and my mountain bike. I use the RAM mounting system. You just attach a RAM ball to the handlebars with a C-clamp or get one that screws into a mirror mount hole - or any number of other mounting options. Your LeMans should have two unused mirror mounts. Then you need an arm and a cradle that is specific to your GPS unit. These are available on Amazon, GPS City, and other sites. I like the RAM system because it's pretty common and super durable. I rented a bike recently, which had a RAM ball on it. Therefore I was able to use my own GPS (which also runs on batteries). Garmin (and aftermarket suppliers) make special wires that power the GPS. My 60 series can be powered through a specialized plug or a USB cable. I use the special plug on my dirt bike and a USB port on my V11. The USB connection vibrates out or looses connection sometimes, which causes the unit to restart. I'll probably put one of the special wires on soon, because it stays connected. "GPS - take me to tacos..."

David - for what it's worth, I paid just a bit less than that for my Scura less than a year ago at a dealer. It had less than 200 miles - so basically brand new. In comparison to the Scura, the Cafe Sport won't require you to buy a whole new flywheel/clutch setup. It also has all the refinements that go with the 2003 and later models. That's a highly desirable V11. So, yeah, the ask price may seem a bit high, but if it's in pristine, unmodified condition (which it appears to be) - then you will not have much in the way of post-purchase costs unless you choose to modify/personalize it. The dealer will probably give it to you with fresh tune, fluids, and filters too.

Looks to me like the carrier bracket on 02/03 is the same casting - but the 03 has a hole in it for the special bolt. I think you could drill a hole in the 02 bracket and use the special bolt (part #34 in MY2003 image in Camn's post). It would be relatively easy to mark the location for the hole when everything is still on the bike - just use a center-punch after removing the bolt.

Canadians are too nice to be Scuristi.

Let's start with the good news. You kept the shiny side up and the thinking part (you) off the pavement. My suggestion is: Go straight to the manager/owner of the shop or service department and explain calmly, without any accusation, that you had a real incident that could have resulted in accident or injury - but didn't, due to your heads-up riding. Now you are worried about anything else that was touched during that recent service - and perhaps state that you are uncertain about bringing the bike in for future service. Focus on your ongoing relationship. What does the manager/owner think they should do in response to this problem? It's difficult for anyone to prove what happened, although your explanation seems 100% logical to me. My guess is that the bolt was installed, but not torqued - that it just loosened and fell out somewhere. If not installed, even a light touch on the brakes would have caused this problem much sooner. I think your "at a minimum" request should be that the dealer offer you free labor if you buy the parts - but ideally they would cover the parts and give the bike a thorough complimentary inspection while they're at it. Give them a chance to find something else wrong and be of genuine service to you. I think I know which bolt you are talking about - the one that goes through a small metal block that fits in a channel in the caliper bracket. Interestingly, this bolt has a cotter pin on my 2003 LeMans, but no cotter pin on my 2002 Scura (same as your Tenni). To repair, you probably need to get a brake line, that small block (which probably also went AWOL), and a bolt (hopefully the caliper was not damaged when the line ripped out). Maybe you should request a bolt for a 2003 or later model. I think the 2003 bolt is a bit longer than the 2002 - the part with the hole for the pin sticks out toward the wheel. The fact that a cotter pin appears on the 2003 model (along with all the other changes made at that time) suggests a response by Moto Guzzi to a known problem. May as well make it better/safer while you're in there...

Ha - I gave up on Facebook a while back. My kids told me "Facebook is where ideas go to die." However, you can still browse the site without being a Facebook member at: https://www.facebook.com/guzziscotland Lots of great photos and stuff. Please send the Ewan McGregor Stelvio with giant knobbies to me.

Nice work -especially hiding all the wires in the headlight bucket. Wish I had the answer for you on the neutral light. It's totally backwards, right? - off when it should be on - on when it should be off. Maybe read up on what signal the gauge wants to read - then test and compare to the signal in the wire. I am curious though. I've only seen one magnet used for these types of speedo. What is the reasoning behind using six magnets on the front wheel?

I would certainly try to remove it without taking the frame apart. Not having done this myself, I'm guessing... but I think that you could probably loosen it enough to get it out of there. I just took another look at my bike. Two screws look pretty easy to access. I think I would shorten an allen-wrench with a bench grinder to gain access to the third - the one that is tucked in near the frame. Best of luck with it. Hopefully it comes out with the subframe intact. But the subframe takes what - maybe 7-8 more bolts for unobstructed access?

Look carefully at any modifications that have been done. I underestimated the time and money it would take to bring my LeMans to the condition where I would enjoy it. It's nearly there now. I enjoy working on it, so I don't mind the extra time involved - but I did end up buying a few expensive bits that I didn't plan on. I've been documenting the project here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18967&hl= I recall seeing a thread about how to do a pre-purchase inspection of a V11 - but couldn't find it just now. Maybe someone else will remember it. Meanwhile, it might good to read the rest of the menu - the year-by-year changes to the models: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5691

Those are the first empirical data I have seen on clutch lever effort. That is a surprising result, because of the oft-repeated statement that the lever for single plate clutches feels easier to pull than the dual-plates. Data trumps "feel" and opinion. Thanks for sharing that. ...and thanks to people like mznyc, Jaap, and others, who have hands-on experience with compatible parts. It seems that most people describe the Tenni/Scura problem as the clutch. However, the actual weak point (as has been pointed out in many threads) is the flywheel (non-consumable). Different flywheels work with different clutches. Once the potentially faulty flywheel is replaced (along with compatible clutch parts), it should last the life of the bike. Future clutch service should be less expensive - and easier to obtain parts.

I flew in to Denver and a friend and I rented BMW R1200GSs from http://tourbikes.com/ in Aurora (close to the airport and from whom I would definitely rent again). Here's the loop from Saturday, in which we rode three major mountain passes: Guanella Pass (some dirt roads) Berthoud Pass Trail Ridge Road (highlighted on the map and some photos from over 12,000 feet elevation) Then we took the peak-to-peak highway with three minor passes. Although this was not a V11 ride, I thought I'd share it with you all as it was one of the most beautiful rides I've ever done. I saw bighorn sheep in the road, moose (thankfully not in the road), elk, and plenty of deer and smaller critters. Pictures can't do it justice, but here are some from the top of Trail Ridge and one from a dirt road along the Platte River (which is currently running at maximum capacity with some flooding). The GSs were great mounts for this ride, because we did three dirt sections over the weekend. Too bad no Stelvios to rent...

Take pics in case it works... ...or in case it doesn't.

Swelling could be the problem - but sitting around for 2 months in summer for "de-swelling" doesn't sound like a fun solution (but great idea if you already waiting for parts). There are various wires and hoses that can interfere with getting the tank back on properly, but it sounds like you are aware of those. Beyond that, it appears to me that there are two other possible adjustments: The spring-nut on the frame at the back of the tank (front of seat). Make sure that is positioned as far back as possible. The rubber tank mounts on the frame (near the steering head). It seems that these could be shaved down a bit without negatively affecting anything. This would allow you to push the whole tank forward a touch. I have not done this, nor have I heard about anyone else doing it - it's just something I briefly considered while also also fighting to get a tank back on.

As for differences in lever effort - lucky me, I have a Scura (with original single-plate clutch) and an 03 LeMans (with stock, dual-plate clutch) in the garage. So, in the spirit of scientific research, I tested the levers side by side. I use two-fingers to activate the clutch - and if I were blindfolded, I don't think I could tell the difference. I can tell a little difference in performance on the road, but as I mentioned before, even that difference is not a big deal to me. In fact, I was just struggling to come up with some words to more accurately describe the difference. Maybe the difference is more pronounced with more aggressive riding (racing). I tend toward smooth, gentle shifts; I only use heavy throttle when the gears are already fully engaged. Meanwhile - I figure I'll let the Scura run the stock flywheel/clutch until the next oil change (12,000 miles). I'm still leaning toward the RAM unit (if it becomes available in time). All in the name of research...

MG Cycle also sells replacement clutch plates. To me, the biggest attraction to the RAM kit from MG is that it is complete. I'd be just as happy to throw in a twin-plate unit for the same money if I could get all the parts in a kit. I want to avoid buying a mix of new and used parts from several different suppliers - and ending up with something I can't figure out how to install.