Pressureangle Posted October 21 Posted October 21 12 hours ago, PJPR01 said: Fresh fluids all around! Rear drive was low and very dark and dirty, flushed it completely and refilled to mark. Transmission fluid was medium to 3/4 dirty, but level was good. 850 ml into the tranny and all is good. Engine oil was medium dirty, level was good. Put 3.5 quarts in, will take it for a spin and check level again, may need another quarter of a quart. A little concerned I see a small bit of very clean fork oil on the top of the right shock adjusting screw...does that mean I have a seal issue? Maybe time to inspect both, check seals and put fresh fluid...haven't done that yet on the Scura...will need to read a bit. Any pointers from the experts having done this? 'dark and dirty'. Is that possibly Moly additive residue? What lube are you using in trans and bevel? No idea on the fork, but since they're not pressurized I suspect it's simply an o-ring on the adjuster. Of course, it will be a size you can't obtain but from a suspension specialist lol 1
Gmc28 Posted October 21 Posted October 21 On 10/17/2025 at 9:06 AM, Pressureangle said: Aesthetically and dimensionally, it may matter but electrically it doesn't, as long as it accommodates a 2-wire stator. My rec/reg is suspect, I'll replace it with a Shindengen if I can fit it in the space. As I recall the Shindengen fits pretty slick, back under the seat, toward the back, with just a little creativity. 1
PJPR01 Posted October 21 Posted October 21 (edited) The fluids that were in it were Motul SAE 75W90 Full Synthetic, but I replaced all of them with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 75W90 - API GL-5 now. Thanks for the tip on the fork...will look at the parts manual and see how it is assembled...luckily a small amount and the first time I have seen any leak there. Edited October 21 by PJPR01
Pressureangle Posted October 21 Posted October 21 1 minute ago, Gmc28 said: As I recall the Shindengen fits pretty slick, back under the seat, toward the back, with just a little creativity. That made my brain stall. I'm sure whatever mathematically provable difference in efficiency is statistically insignificant...but I get jumpy running AC/pulsed wires in pairs near unrelated electronics. Probably overcautious. I like to keep regulators as close to stators as possible, though I can't say I have sound electrical engineering behind that preference. 1
Gmc28 Posted October 21 Posted October 21 (edited) 2 hours ago, Pressureangle said: That made my brain stall. I'm sure whatever mathematically provable difference in efficiency is statistically insignificant...but I get jumpy running AC/pulsed wires in pairs near unrelated electronics. Probably overcautious. I like to keep regulators as close to stators as possible, though I can't say I have sound electrical engineering behind that preference. I won't argue the logic of that, just indicate that I think all three of the V11's i've had got the same treatment, which is a bit of overkill but easy to do, and involved upgrading the wiring, connectors, and the reg, with the reg going back in that same spot near tail (oh, and of course the ground connection to battery, and relays). Same with the Cagiva's, and not to imply direct cause-effect for the various elements of that process, but all have been trouble free since. (correction... I lied. I did not change/move the rec on the greenie. just for the record :->) Edited October 21 by Gmc28 2
Tomchri Posted October 21 Posted October 21 Have 4 Shindengen mounted under battery tray, all fine, oldest 7 years. Cheers Tom. 2 1
audiomick Posted October 21 Posted October 21 8 hours ago, Pressureangle said: ...but I get jumpy running AC/pulsed wires in pairs near unrelated electronics. Probably overcautious. In my humble opinion, you can't be too cautious about that. Case in point: we did some audio recording today at work. In the course of setting that up, I ran the audio cables a couple of feet parallel to the power cables. My head of department came in and had a listen to what the mics were delivering, and noticed that there was noise on one of them. It turned out to be coming from the power cable, high frequency crap inducting into the audio cables, despite the fact that they are shielded as a matter of course against that sort of stuff. Probably, there is something on the same power circuit with a switching power supply that dumps rubbish back into the neutral connection. Whatever, experience has shown that keeping "dirty" cables away from things that are sensitive to high frequency rubbish is 1.) not that difficult, usually, and 2.)always a good idea, and never hurts. 2
docc Posted October 22 Posted October 22 V11 case in point: Allowing our phase/timing/cam sensor wiring/connector to lie parallel to the ignition/spark plug wire "could" produce (induce!) an induction interference into the phase sensor input to the ECU . . . 2 1
FreyZI Posted October 22 Posted October 22 On 10/20/2025 at 9:33 PM, PJPR01 said: Rear drive was low and very dark and dirty, flushed it completely and refilled to mark. I checked on Bubbles' rear drive oil level last week. Couldn't see squat through the oil level window, so I took it off and sloshed a little oil out. Looked about like chili minus the chunks. I presume that's a bit of rust coloring what started out as a nice amber oil. Changing the oil is straightforward. What's the procedure to "flush" it? While I'm messing with the rear drive oil, is it possible to improve the sight glass? I previously gave it as good a cleaning as possible and blew it out with compressed air, but still doesn't work very well as a "window". Is there a better aftermarket one? 1
PJPR01 Posted October 22 Posted October 22 (edited) 11 hours ago, FreyZI said: I checked on Bubbles' rear drive oil level last week. Couldn't see squat through the oil level window, so I took it off and sloshed a little oil out. Looked about like chili minus the chunks. I presume that's a bit of rust coloring what started out as a nice amber oil. Changing the oil is straightforward. What's the procedure to "flush" it? While I'm messing with the rear drive oil, is it possible to improve the sight glass? I previously gave it as good a cleaning as possible and blew it out with compressed air, but still doesn't work very well as a "window". Is there a better aftermarket one? Nice description!! Texas Chili...with or without beans? I bought an extra container of the gear oil (20 bucks) so that I could squirt more into the rear drive, and I kept squirting fresh fluid into the fill hole until the fluid coming out the drain hole was no longer murky and came out completely clear. Now that you mention it I don't recall seeing a sight glass on my Scura rear drive...I do have a sight glass on the side of the transmission. On the rear drive I only have a breather valve...now you've got me wondering if I should have a sight glass back there! Edited October 22 by PJPR01 3
gstallons Posted October 22 Posted October 22 9 hours ago, FreyZI said: I checked on Bubbles' rear drive oil level last week. Couldn't see squat through the oil level window, so I took it off and sloshed a little oil out. Looked about like chili minus the chunks. I presume that's a bit of rust coloring what started out as a nice amber oil. Changing the oil is straightforward. What's the procedure to "flush" it? While I'm messing with the rear drive oil, is it possible to improve the sight glass? I previously gave it as good a cleaning as possible and blew it out with compressed air, but still doesn't work very well as a "window". Is there a better aftermarket one? If this fluid looked this bad , you can "flush" it by changing the fluid . Ride it a few miles and change it again. Repeat this until you are happy w/the results. Trust me , this gear oil costs less than this rear drive unit. 3
docc Posted October 22 Posted October 22 There is some confusion in the posts referencing the sight glass/ level window on the "rear drive" as this is found on the gearbox. The rear drive has a "level plug" at the very back of its radius that will overflow when the oil level is full. 3 1
PJPR01 Posted October 22 Posted October 22 4 minutes ago, docc said: There is some confusion in the posts referencing the sight glass/ level window on the "rear drive" as this is found on the gearbox. The rear drive has a "level plug" at the very back of its radius that will overflow when the oil level is full. Hi Docc...OK thanks for confirming the gearbox item...no issues there. On the rear drive..do you mean the rubber plug on the axle? I'm not sure what you mean by back of the "radius"..picture perhaps? Thanks!
docc Posted October 22 Posted October 22 4 minutes ago, PJPR01 said: Hi Docc...OK thanks for confirming the gearbox item...no issues there. On the rear drive..do you mean the rubber plug on the axle? I'm not sure what you mean by back of the "radius"..picture perhaps? Thanks! That was a pretty weak description on my part. On the rear drive: fill plug on top with the integrated vent, drain plug on the bottom, and "fill level" plug at the nine o'clock position: 3
Pressureangle Posted October 22 Posted October 22 11 minutes ago, docc said: That was a pretty weak description on my part. On the rear drive: fill plug on top with the integrated vent, drain plug on the bottom, and "fill level" plug at the nine o'clock position: ...a fine example of a blown-out main seal? 1 1
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