Scud Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Phil - I agree that a motor can run a long time on low pressure. My LeMans surely did - we had some discussion a while back about the problem I had with that bike (I was first alerted to it by the LOP warning light at idle). A gauge helped me diagnose the problem, which turned out the be two tabs missing from the oil journals (upper sump gasket). Here's the thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19114 It's Ironic that the problem would have been solved if I had just put in a Roper plate, because that would have caused me to replace the gaskets (but no plates were available at the time). It's a good argument that no new bike comes with a pressure gauge - and many cars don't have them either (and if they do, they're usually just L to H - no numbers). I think I had a very rare problem where a gauge actually helped figure it out (I mean really... who puts an engine together with no gasket surface around the oil pump's oil journals?) It never occurred to me to suspect that as a problem. It seems to me, that an oil pressure gauge could give an early warning regarding any internal, pressure-robbing oil leak. I imagine that a loosening oil filter would show the same symptoms as I experienced with two pieces of missing gasket. Therefore, I think that a gauge could give ample warning when a filter starts loosening (assuming a person wanted to look at it.) And I think a lot of people don't notice when a light fails to turn on. The hose clamp, of course, works for anyone who is willing to remove the lower sump at each oil change. I'll give one other reason for a gauge - but this is just me. I know I don't NEED a gauge, but I think it's cool. It's just personalization and adornment for my bike - totally irrational. But jeez, if I was rational, I'd still have my BMW R1100RT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 I have the heads and cylinders pulled. Everything looks pretty good, even the piston bearings. I didn't have any way to get the 32mm nut off the nose of the crankshaft so i ordered an offset 32mm wrench as Pete Roper suggests. Just from play I can tell the the big end bearings are gone. I will pull the rods out tomorrow and take a look at the crank bearings surfaces. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Craig - you're really moving fast on it. Hopefully you've caught it soon enough that it repairable without major investment (other than time, of course). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knumbnutz Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Many years ago, i fitted a high intensity 5mm LED to my dash, it was the only thing on the dash apart from a speedo. Being high intensity, you could really notice it day or night. I rode home in the rain once and the light started flicking and I freaked. After a minute it went away as it dried out, then more rain and back on. I twigged what was happening after the second time, but what I immediately found is that the light which was narrow focus and eye piercing was very noticeable. I made the mistake of using a blue high intensity for my high beam and orange for turns on the previous version of the dash and it wasnt too bad in the day, but would blind me at night - Hence version 2 !! So my suggestion is go with high intensity LEDs for your oil light, you won't miss it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 So my suggestion is go with high intensity LEDs for your oil light, you won't miss it ! I actually have a high intensity LED installed there, what I missed was that it didn't light BEFORE I started the engine, so this low oil pressure problem crept up on me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 Its getting uglier. I am going to have to cut a rod bolt off. The rod bolts I was able to remove have a really nice looking bluing that gives a good idea of how hot it go in there. The bearing shell that is welded to the other rod big end is another excellence indication of heat. I can't really tell yet whether or not the rod journal bearing is going to be salvageable. Anyone have a crankshaft they are will to sell? There are two morals to this story so far: 1. Make sure you LOOK for your oil pressure light to come on BEFORE you start the bike, then go out. 2. Always put the hose clamp on the oil filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 So the crankshaft is not salvageable? It cannot be machined and re-used? I could break my spare engine and get the crank out. Let's talk when you know everything you need - maybe connecting rods too. The Blue-labbio (remind me what you actually decided to call it) MUST rise from the ashes like the mythical bird that it is the namesake of that other city in Arizona. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 The Laverda-Guzzi will ride again. I will need to take the crankshaft to a machinist to get some professional advice on repairing the rod journal. The rods are toast. I will order some Carillos from Mike Rich next week. Will probably bite the bullet on a street cam and valve kit from him as well. Bumping the compression ratio up would be nice, but he said pistons were several weeks out when I asked earlier this week. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 livin' the fantasy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 livin' the fantasy! Only if I can solve the crankshaft problem. I have to cut or drill out a rod bolt that has apparently welded itself into the rod before I can even assess the crankshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 At least you're not saving the rods.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 The following has been Rated GP (Garage Porn) for its graphic depictions of mechanical violence. The rods are not salvagable. I had to remove one of them with a cutoff wheel because it got so hot the rod bolt welded. Here is the crankshaft: This is an excellent picture of a really bad rod journal: Scored main bearing: And its matching partner: And here is where most of the bearing material went: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Jeez, man . . . I need a beer. You should have one, too . . . It will be very interesting to learn if that crank can be saved. Best of luck with this all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 "That'll buff right out.." Well, if oversize bearings are available (haven't looked) I'll bet .020" will clean it up. The oil pump is obviously toast, and depending on how well the oil filter did, maybe rocker arm bushings, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 I ''think" only stock size bearings are available from the factory. Anyone want to chime in ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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