BigBlock Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Looking good Scud. She cleaned up nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Makes me jealous! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Doesn't look like my greeney at all, great job. Sent from my shoe phone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 You do nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Thanks - hopefully I can get it run as good as it's starting to look. I did a leak-down test and both cylinders are sealing well. Whatever the problem is, I'm leaning toward electrical stuff, because I am ruling out so much else. Will an ECU from a 2002 bike work in a 2000? Swapping ECUs would be a pretty easy test. I'll the gamut of electrical tests in a week or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Will an ECU from a 2002 bike work in a 2000? Swapping ECUs would be a pretty easy test. I'll the gamut of electrical tests in a week or so. Yes, as far as I can tell, it will work. There are only two variants of ECU on the V11; the 15M and the 15RC. The 15M is an earlier version without a Lambda Probe, and the 15RC is later with Lambda Probe (narrow band ) capability. Both have the same electrical plug and wiring. DD fitted a 15M in place of a 15RC on a 2004 Nero Corsa without problems. There are a few different part numbers in various parts lists shown below, but the only differences I know about are IAW 15M or 15RC. GU01729530 ECU 1999 model. Mounted plug up. GU01729531 ECU 2002 model. Mounted plug down. GU01729590 Ballabio_2003-2005 [uSA] NO Cat GU01729591 LM/Sport Naked 2003 Catalytic Converter GU01729592 Ballabio_2003-2005 Catalytic Converter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 I had a 15RC running without probe for a couple of thousands without any problem (that was pre GuzziDiag times). So for a short test you can plug in whatever comes handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Thanks guys. I'm pretty sure the sticker says it's a 15M. But I just looked at my notes and when I plugged in GuzziDiag, it thinks it's a 15RC. That seems to suggest that somebody messed with the ECU. Wish I was home to try a swap, but I'm sitting in an airport. Stay tuned. Pun intended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Thanks guys. I'm pretty sure the sticker says it's a 15M. But I just looked at my notes and when I plugged in GuzziDiag, it thinks it's a 15RC. That seems to suggest that somebody messed with the ECU. When you set preferences in GuzziDiag, you need to select from a list for a matching bike. If you select a later model bike which was fitted with a IAW15RC, then GuzziDiag will report a 15RC, but may not connect. DD selects "02 Sport Naked" instead of "04 Nero Corsa" (which was originally fitted with a 15RC) so that he can program his 15M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 If it's a RC then GuzziDiag offers an option to uncheck the Lambda input IIRC. That's one for the experts like Meinolf e.g. You should also be able to reset the Lambda correction tables. I remember the 15M-RC as the crispier version than the older 15M. But that's rather a personal matter. What I had then was a Breva box, firmware basically untouched, only the fuel and spark maps were overwritten with V11 values. Lambda detection was hot, of course, made no problems either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 So... another possible culprit... the exhaust gasket on side with the exhaust leak just fell out, while the one on other side was very difficult to remove. And one stud on the leaking side ran out of thread before I could tighten the exhaust - so I put in an extra washer. Also noticed that the steering damper was very notchy - so I ditched it. Anyways... get her close to back together (and the little tart swiped the Titanium exhaust from the Champagne LeMans). I must have done something wrong, because I've got crank, but no start. Once I get it to start again, I'll dig into all the electronic and ECU advice. Meanwhile, gratuitous greenie picture... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBlock Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 It's coming together nicely Scud. Yes, Greenies are tarts and they sure love their bling! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 A cautiously optimistic update after a long non-wrenching hiatus: Reflecting on the earlier crank but no-start, I pulled the fuel line off the pressure regulator and it was dry. So I replaced the electric petcock with a manual (but as I posted earlier, it ran poorly with the green tank and with the champagne tank which has a manual petcock). I put in the manual petcock "for good measure." I noticed that the fuel pump didn't look original, so I took it out and flow tested it, it pumped only a small volume of fuel. Then I took the original fuel pump off the champagne project and flow tested it - much more fuel. So I installed that one on the Greenie. She started up and I was able able to ride it in the neighborhood without any of the dramatic hesitation that I experienced before. I even gave it a good dose of throttle and she was strong all the way up to 7,000 RPM. The neighbors love me... Maybe this whole poor running problem was due to low fuel volume through the pump. If all works out, there will be a short shakedown ride tomorrow. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 It works! I gave it full throttle all the way up to 7500 RPM - and the cutting-out is gone. Such a relief - I was getting anxious that I wouldn't be able to find the problem. So, it seems the primary problem was the aftermarket fuel pump not delivering adequate flow or pressure. But there were a bunch of little problems too - such as exhaust leak, loose electrical connectors, etc. Anyway - now it needs the TBs balanced and some attention to the front end, where there is a leaky fork seal and some other stuff to clean up - and maybe stick on some chrome bar-end mirrors. But first... re-organize the garage and put everything away before starting another phase. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 A little post-mortem inspection on the fuel pump revealed that the space between the brass fitting and threaded plastic body of the pump was clogged with bits of black rubber. It seems the fuel line was disintegrating from the inside and had partially blocked the inlet. Thinking back to my original experience with the problem, that it seemed like fuel starvation... I now know that I should have asked myself - "What else could restrict fuel flow?" The braided hoses that go from the petcock to the external fuel pumps are no longer available. I think I might take one to a hose shop and see what it would cost to get a batch made. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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