All Activity

I've been doing glucosamine with MSM for over 20 years. I recently went to a knee doc for mild joint pain and he said it was bone on bone and I needed a replacement. Take from that what you will, but I'm a believer.

I thought the same thing, narrow engagement point on my '07 Norge, but bleeding the clutch yearly has kept it nice and crisp even as the next ride takes me over 50,000 Miles!

To SamP and all others. The charging system wiring on the red frame bikes has the red/black wire going from the battery (green/black wire) to the F5 , then (blue) to the start relay to the headlight relay and then to the V regulator. ) The wiring on the black frame bikes goes from the battery to the (red/black) headlight relay and then to the V regulator. This looks like the only difference in the wiring diagrams of the charge circuit. The red/black wire goes to the batter through F3. The blue wire goes to the GEN light in the instrument cluster. The two red wires either join ant the connector of the V regulator or join at F3 in the fuse panel. The last two (yellow) go directly to the stator. Wire colors are a suggestion not an edict ! Trivia . The rotor is the rotating field and this is why it is called the rotor. The stator is stationary and this is why it has the name stator.

SamP , have you done anymore about your alternator charging problem ? It has been a couple of days since I have been on and just checking .

That would be this, I reckon. This "when scying TB" was probably supposed to have been "when synching the throttle bodies", I guess. To the first question: whether the engine is warm or not has absolutely no effect on the TPS Voltage. What is really important, as detailed in the thread linked above, is that there is nothing interfering with the throttle body closing completely. Connecting rod disconnected, high idle mechanism disconnected, throttle stop screw all the way out. All that. What makes it difficult to land exactly on the 157 mV is that the business moves a bit when you tighten up the screws. A couple of attempts will show in which direction and how much (approximately) it will move, allowing a better guess at what it should be before tightening. Also, within 2 or 3 mV is close enough, actually. When synching: the bleed screws are, more or less, only relevant at and just off idle. Based on the procedure outline from page 572 onwards in this workshop manual https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf The procedure there is for using the Guzzi diagnosis tool. We're not, so ignore the bit about 3.8°. Disconnect everything from the throttle bodies, and measure the Voltage with the multimeter. Re-connect all the linkages. Close the bleed screws all the way. Using the tool of your choice (vacuum gauges, or whatever) balance the throttle bodies at about 3,000 r.p.m. . Use the bleed screws and said tool of your choice to set the idle speed and balance the throttle bodies at idle. That's a summary. Read the thread in the link above for the full story.

@thumper, you did tell the new owner about the forum, I hope?

I don't know if the clutch cylinder is the same internally as the V11, but I've had the internal spring break into pieces a couple times. There was excessive lever play and the engagement range was affected ... The last time I found it like this: First time, along with rebuild kit:

It’s exactly the same clutch that is in the V11 and all other big blocks since the end of the Cretaceous. If he is finding that the clutch is only starting to lift at the very end of its travel the most likely cause is that the plunger on the lever, (NOT the span wheel.) is maladjusted. Also all the CARC bikes, (And V11’s.) are murder on their clutch fluid. If it hasn’t been changed regularly the bore of the master cylinder may be damaged limiting the efficacy of the piston’s stroke.

No. But make sure varm up rod and rod are all clear from the inj house. It will take many trys to get it to 157mv. Some mapping recomend closed air screws. Many ways to tune, syncronice. Docs recomended tune up are here in clear notes. Cheers Tom.

Do you set tps voltage with the engine warm? when scying TB do you set basliine with rod disconnected using air screws?Thanks

All good. The rectifier multi-pin connector and the transmission ground would be next in my book. Followed by a check of running voltage

A fellow on another forum bought a 2-valve Norge last year. He notices that the clutch engagement is in a very narrow lever range. Is this common, or is he looking at a tear down?

Thanks for the shout-out to let us know. I hope the new owner finds us. There is no V11 ownership requirement to pop in and enjoy the community, @thumper!

Well after 23 years I sold my V11. It was sad but it went to a good home. This forum has helped me through a lot of v11 issues. Thanks for everything, its been fun

I'm not a bike mechanic either but had no problem installing a new battery in my V11 when i got it, (still use the old one on the outboard motor). I also replaced all the relays with the recommended Omron relays discussed elsewhere on this site. Found good ones on Ebay. Bought extras. I applied Craig Deoxit to the terminals and dielectric grease to pins when installing the new relays. I keep extra relays and fuses in my tail bag just in case the bike decides to get funky somewhere inconvenient.

I would make certain that you have a good earth. That cable ends at the transmission housing. It can be reached with some dexterity. I would clean the cable end and the transmission surface, then use some Caig DeoxIt or similar to protect the connection. That, and the underseat relays are legendary for going on strike at the most inopportune moments. Good replacements are not that expensive and they are plug and play. Then, a check of running voltage. OH! The voltage rectifier is adjacent to the oil cooler. Trace the wires from it to the frame. There is a multi-pin connector that is susceptible to rain water and corrosion. I had a similar problem that went away when I cleaned that connector.

Hi audiomick, Thank you and docc for taking the time to respond, I will probably take it to the local bike shop for them to have a look for me as I said I am not mechanically minded Cheers Dell OptiMate 1 Duo 12V Lithium and Lead Acid Motorcycle Automatic Battery Charger Maintainer OptiMate 1 Duo 12V Lithium and Lead Acid Motorcycle Automatic Battery Charger Maintainer 200+ bought in past month

We were all a new guy once!

If it were a Ballabio, there will be original headlight/instrument brackets that would mount to the frame instead of the forks. Also, handlebars (not "clip-ons") . . . .

Looks like a pure and true "Sport" rather than a converted Ballabio. If it is, indeed a converted Ballabio, it is very nicely done! Looks like a great score! Love the high mount Titanium canisters!

Thanks docc! Yeah, this one feels like my version of the find that others make. Plus the owner shipped (as far as I can tell) almost all of the original take-offs. From the VIN it was an '04 Ballabio that someone put a lot of thought and care into. I need to go through and catalog everything. Something tells me I'm in the right place for help with that.

Gorgeous Sport, @105Gunner! That has a lot of cool things going on!

Thanks! Wanted one of these for many years. Seeing @swooshdave's bike on The Mighty Garage all the time didn't help! Mine came up on FB Marketplace a few months ago. Looking forward to meeting others on the forum!

Hello and welcome. What a beauty.