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Docc…look at the torque number 🫣

274 pounds with 80 horsepower . . . That would be like a V11 with 160 hp . . .

⚡️Stark Varg SM ⚡️ 🔋 or 🪫❓

The quality of Victorian vehicles these days is really good. It's very rare to see an obviously dodge car which begs the question why does NSW continue with the yearly inspections on +5YO vehicles. NSW vehicles from what I experience being here regularly are just as good as Vic vehicles. It's the old problem, once you have a bureaucratic creation in place it's almost impossible to wind it back. The headlight ON for bikes is one of the few exceptions I can think of. The annual roadworthy for vehicle >5years old in NSW was a PITA but nowhere near the PITA the German TUV requirements are. Phil

I was very surprised to find the screws so lightly secured. I'll try to remember to photo the other TB. The bushings came out fairly easily, a 9mm tap halfway in and a punch from the other side. The new ones seemed a bit tighter in the bores, but not enough for concern. Only the one bushing on the bottom RH side showed any perceptible wear, but I have them and I'm there. The seals were the big shock, they were loose on the shaft and in the bores. I used the *very* expensive ones listed in Lucky Phil's thread, iirc they're about $12 each. I searched for a couple hours and found zero else available, I could have put together 2-3 purchases of old Yamaha stock but these are viton and should last the life.

My 1100 Sport came with a lithium Exide battery, a few hundred grams, but saw red charging light a couple of times, never after installed a AGM battery. Just me, but still don’t thrust lithium. cheers Tom.

Probably thru rumors, think l saw NZ are really getting into all the new terrible radar systems available today. And l thought it was basically free speed between sheep’s and kangaroos. The misses said last night watching GP training, what about going to Phillip lsland, hhmmm only 16000km flight distance. Dreams for free Or. Cheers Tom.

My bolts on the main shaft was hit by something big. Had to grind to get the bolts out. Grinding the shaft flat does a thing with the airflow, a smart German guy mentioned. 1 Very stubborn bushing to remove, otherwise wise not hard. It’s a Guzzi l know, but l like them best possible tuned. Did you use Yamaha seals or. Cheers Tom.

Back to work...Throttle body day Thanks to Lucky Phil's thread [ link ] this is easy enough for anyone to do at home. I didn't think to take a lot of pictures before starting, but the bottom of the throttle shafts were DEEP with what looked like the bottom of a '74 Ford 460 oil pan. My throttle blade screws weren't peened or center punched, they had simply been hit once with a chisel, looked like; turning them out was easy enough probably could have without damaging anything. I used a set of duckbill pliers to squeeze the end together a bit while not flattening the threads. Came out surprisingly easy though probably won't go in as well. Certainly going to touch them with loctite going back, may try new screws if the hardware has the correct pitch in brass. Went to the very back of the 'special tools' drawer and drug out a 5/16" valve guide driver (8mm) a perfect fit for the bushings. Easy to feel when centered, a couple medium whacks and when the seal shoulder stopped, stuck the old bushing on to drive the new ones home to the shoulder. Easy peasy. The old seals were so dead they actually fell out as I pulled the shaft. Finish tomorrow, everything soaking in Boraxo/dishsoap to soften the road armor covering the linkage arms and TB bodies. Upside-damn-down again, WTF Turn your head lol

I believe it should. If I remember correctly, you should be able to check whether the light is working by pulling the light blue wire off the regulator and connecting it to battery minus. 12.8 at Idle is, as far as I know, probably okay. If it never gets above 13.6V, that's a bit low. Before you decide that the regulator is not ok, go through the wiring loom and check and clean all of the connections that have even remotely something to do with the charging system.

My HK Monaro GTS 186S. It was a rust-bucket, actually, and ended up getting a canary*. I was a student, and had no money, so it went. My Z900, which I sold when I went to Germany. OK, I'm on the Guzzi trip now, but that was a sweet bike. * for the foreigners: there is no regular roadworthiness test in Victoria, Australia. Instead, the police can pull you over, and make an assesment of the vehicle. If they are of the opinion that something is not good, they can order a roadworthiness test. Your are then obliged to front up at the the official departement, and have the test done. If you don't, and keep using the vehicle, your're in deep shit. When I was still there, when that happened, they put a sticker in the windshield, about 10" by 10" and bright yellow. Canary...

I read ALL of that already and then some LOL... just 2 questions: is my regulator rectifier borderline? should my charging light come on when the bike is NOT running, just the ignition switch to ON?

Your "battery tender" probably doesn't speak Hawker Odyssey fluently. A Hawker (EnerSys) approved charger is the ticket. Otherwise, 1000 rpm is rather low for a V11, IMO. Plus, anything above 2500 rpm or so should see 13.8-14.2 volts. Stand by for TMI . . .

i have a 2004 V11 cafe sport Odessey PC545 battery while bike is running at 1000 rpm idle 12.7- 12.8 volts when bike is at 2000 rpm and above 13.6 volts Went on a 40 mile ride with one stop... bike started no issue. when i got home i plugged my battery tender harness in and within 60 seconds the green light started flashing telling me battery was at least 90% charged, what voltages should i be reading at the battery at idle and at 2000 rpm and above? is my voltage regulator reading a bit low? Charging light NEVER comes on... is that normal? thnx

ETX18F.

what model Earth X battery did you get?

I've never had real time sellers remorse. Once the decision is made to sell the vehicle it's dead to me. Years later, well that's another story. Phil

I went with an EarthX LiFePO4 battery, as it is assembled/tested in Colorado, USA and Earth-X has an FAA (aircraft) rating on many of their batteries. 2-year replacement warranty, although life span is expected to be considerably longer. It is tiny (150mm L x 86mm W x 93mm H) and light (1 Kg) and zero problems spinning the V11 over. It replaces a 5-year old Yuasa AGM. Was 229 USD. I have it on a programmable LiFePO4 charger.

looks to be!

Fuel for the fire. When the time comes for maintenance on your pad replacement. (In case you didn't know) Wagner and others sell a DOT 5.1 brake fluid . It works in all systems that have DOT 3 and DOT fluid applications. This is also NOT compatible w/DOT 5. Nothing is and don't forget it. The min. wet boiling point is 356f / 180c temp. so you should be good and not experience bad things riding over your head !

Also not the hybrid, but a straight Anti-Gravity Re-start lithium battery. I have them in my R1200R and my F800GS; another in a V11. There's a disconcerting lack of push on a rather cold morning (never not started up, but you've got to wake up the battery a bit before it really wants to crank) -- not that that'll be a problem for you in Georgia.

Aesthetically and dimensionally, it may matter but electrically it doesn't, as long as it accommodates a 2-wire stator. My rec/reg is suspect, I'll replace it with a Shindengen if I can fit it in the space.

Never the hybrid, but my 1100 Sport did like the straight lithium battery. Motus. I think I've seen you on the Cherohola Parkway during the South'n Spine Raids twice.