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Surprised the hammer doesn't get a little steamed.....

Those clips are pretty irrelevant. Don't know if that's Roy Buchanan's really family but that would certainly be a different side of the man. Most times he can be a real gunslinger. If your not familiar with Roy watch something like Roy Buchanan live form Austin, TX. Eva Cassidy go watch her cover of Somewhere Over the Rainbow or Song Bird.

I feel the urge to clarify that If it is "the same" in the sense that the brakes stay "pumped up" and still have a good feel after standing for some minutes with no wheel rotation, the problem is probably the disk or bearings or something at that end. Something that pushes the pads back away from the disk when the wheel rotates, causing them to need to be "pumped back up" when the brakes are applied. If it "the same" in the sense that the brakes need "pumping up" again after standing for some time, there is probably air in the system that needs bleeding out.

At this point, it seems a lot cheaper to travel to Europe to purchase your gear, VAT free, and import duty free. Some of the bakery stuff that is made in France cost 50 USD here, and 13 EUR there; taking into account that 50 USD here is without VAT and 13 EUR includes VAT in Eur... These are cast for a pastry named Canelé. I need at least 50 of them....

Exactly what I said in my post;

And you waited all that time to tell me? Each time I change the gearbox oil, my clutch slips... now I understand why!!!

Mine broke at 30k miles. Since you are in Norway, I suppose 13 k is 13,000 km. 30k miles is about 50k km. I would wait. What you need to do, is to connect the crank signal through an additional relay, and route the solenoid direct from the battery using that relay. This is how you take care of the no crank issue once forever. The starter motor main power is coming direct from the battery. However, the Solenoid power is routed through the ignition switch. Over time, that signal does not bring enough amps to get the Solenoid to close the circuit to power the starter motor. After purchasing my Le Mans, I experienced the "no crank" almost right from the beginning. It was a 2004 model with about 9000 miles on the non-working odometer. The bike would seem to crank normally, but at times, pushing the start button would yield nothing. After a few moves, then it would crank again. Just modify the start wiring. At present, your start wire is connected directly from the ignition switch to the solenoid via the start button. Install another relay, connect that start wire to that relay, and the plus solenoid directly to the battery via the relay. Voilà! you will never have the no crank issue again. Here's a photo of the additional relay on my Le Mans so six instead of five... Here's the video of what happens when you have the non modified circuit: Here's another issue that you need to check for: the nipple gets loose and starts to leak:! This is the pics of my broken pawl spring in the gear box:

Whatever you think doesn't matter . The Tariffmeister is in charge of that whim !

BTW , do not put the gear oil in where the rubber plug id=s in the side of the transmission. You will fill up yhe clutch housing and cause problems !

You can test that thought w/the bike sitting still. Pump the rear brake w/your foot three Xs and see if it gets better every stroke. If it does , let it sit for 60 seconds . If it is the same , you MIGHT have a warped rotor . Get the rear wheel off the ground and rotate the wheel . If the rotor is warped you will see the lateral movement and see the warp in the rotor. Also , try moving the wheel to see if there is lateral movement there . There should be NONE .

There is a difference between you personally owning something and moving from one country to another and you in one country selling something to someone who lives in another country. They don't already own what you are selling, it is being imported for the purpose of being sold. That being said, I don't agree with tariffs. They are a way of taxing that is tilted to penalize the regular guy.

Those are likely to be explained here somewhere, but the workshop manual does a good job too. here: https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf Section D, starting on page 57, covers regular maintence. Best to read all of that section, actually. Engine oil page 60 ff., filter follows that. Gearbox oil page 74 ff. PS: the linked document is a compilation. The "section D" I referred to is in the first section, for the earlier models. However, the information doesn't turn up again in the later sections of the document, i.e. in the section for the later models, so I assume that the information for the first model continues to apply for all following models.

Or a warped disc, perhaps, although not as likely as bad bearings.

Yeah, I was pretty knocked over when I first saw the site http://www.magni.it/ . There are some very pretty Guzzis on there.

Ditto to everything docc mentioned . Be sure to use Dot 4 fluid and while you're at it , bleed all fluids and Dot 4 everything.

The hidden part is the small actuator for the safety switch. When you remove the lever, be prepared to catch the little puck that is in a hole in the housing between the lever and the switch. Sometimes that is a little ball bearing whose chief purpose is to spit itself into a parallel universe if you're not ready to nab it. Clean that hole well and grease the pivot pin. Once the stamped nut is on, consider a zip-tie through the pivot pin in case the nut works itself loose and the pin pops out. This allows the lever to fall out and ruins our day. It sounds like time to flush your rear brake fluid and clean/service the rear caliper. Inspect for excessive pad wear that would contribute to increased pedal travel. Another source of increased pedal travel is a bad wheel bearing. Absolutely worth checking your rear wheel bearings.

stiffen up means I have to push down on lever a fair amount to get break to engage, a few inches, I'd like to push down less. no ball end on the damaged lever, repair seems simple enough. I saw something somewhere that there is a black plastic part inside the lever assemble somewhere. not finding it in the manual yet.

As long as the lever has the ball on the end , you will be in good shape . You need to explain "stiffen up" the brake pedal ? Is it spongey or what ?

I think we have at least one owner on here.

I broke my clutch lever , its shorter but still works. I actually like it shorter. But I am thinking it won't pass inspection. I ordered a replacement from mgcycle. Any advice on doing this repair? Should be pretty simple right? Also want to stiffen up / adjust my rear brake foot pedal.

Rotating the steering to get the starter to work is characteristic of faulty bullet connectors for the clutch switch:

That looks a lot like the Magni Sfida, which I do like. I've never ridden one, but was smitten when I saw one as a teen.

there are manuals available for download: If you have the time, replacing the spring is good preventative maintenance. But you could probably get away without doing until until next winter.