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Same morning at the Upper Yarra Reservoir

The tire smudge is the light point to be matched up the the heavy wheel point (valve stem)?

2004 cafe sport Added ground wire to regulator casing Installed some swank Rizoma fluid resevoirs Removed air box and installed aluminum velocity stacks with K&N filter. Found ground stud on case loose Replaced broken fast idle cable Recrimped start circuit bullet connectors under the tank Bike seems ALOT more responsive with the velocity stacks and filters Starter has alot more umph with the loose ground tightened Still waiting on headers without the crossover and will install thr carbon fiber timing cover when i do.... I really love the way this bike rides and looks.

...and the tire is mounted consistent with the direction of travel! Got a similar model (mine has the bead breaking gizmo at waist level) for myself last Xmas. Got to learn about concrete anchor bolts and hammer drills as a side benefit. One of the better investments I've made, IMO. Creates a back saving elevated work surface. Ease of use is partly a function of the wheel design; shallow drop centers are a pain (think F6B/Gold Wing). Just put a new front tire on the H2 yesterday and it took more time taking the body work off for an oil change than demounting/mounting the tire. I don't like the fact that the wrinkle coating flakes off the center post in use with the debris falling about the wheel bearing if so equipped. I try to remember to put a rag over the bearing. Then there's the lube. I've been using up the NoMar stuff...and started out being pretty stingy with it. I apply it generously now (to the tire/wheel) Follow the instructions for the demount bar (the thing you insert "flat" then rotate 90 degrees to capture the bead) carefully. If your pivot point in getting the bead to clear the wheel is too high up on the bar you'll bend/break it's tip. Also, sometimes its difficult to get the flat part of it's tip below the bead of the tire (in preparation for rotating it 90 degrees). If you got one of their bead locking gizmos, it helps stiffen the sidewall enough locally to get the tip underneath the bead. Ok...I've got a BMW rear staged for replacement..and keep forgetting what the mark on the new tire means...heavy or light. Gotta do some internet research....! Enjoy!

Yeah , I think a person can think too much about something . I can remember having a conversation one time and this guy was concerned that the engine in his car didn't stop in the same position EVERY time .

^^^ What Lucky Phil sez. BIL Harley Bob has EGTs and CHTs on all 6 cylinders of his Continental. He gets worried about them not all being the same. I told him, "too much instrumentation."

A shot from the Guzzi club breaky a few years ago. Cheers Guzzler

Beware of Step #5: "Oven Cure" to coincide when momma is away on shopping or otherwise distracted from her kitchen . . .

I've got to relay my experiences. I have been changing tires for 50 years using a bead breaker mounted to my bench and concrete floor, tire irons, 4x4's on a concrete floor or car tire wheel with protector on my bench, and rim protectors. I've always been successful, even with a 240 section Harley tire but, with the exception of the skinny '75 Triump tires, it was always a struggle. And, anytime I thought I had learned a trick, either it didn't work next time or it was so long between tire changes that I forgot it. Then I bought a No Mar Classic HD along with their tire irons, Xtra hand clamp, Yellow thing and their lube and bolted it to the floor. The first tire (rear) for my 2004V11 Le mans tore while mounting. I was unable to get it on without finally using tire irons and rim protectors. So, before I mounted my same size Suzuki TL1000S rear tire, I bought a used wheel and tire assembly off Ebay for maybe $60-$80 and practiced on it. That's is when I learned some of the tricks. Removing a tire is relatively easy but mounting is much more tricky. I'll practice on my Ebay wheel/tire first when it time to change my next tire ( I have 7 bikes). If I don't practice, I'm sure I'll look like those guys on YouTube with their tires spinning on the mountings. Finally, the further you get from mounting a race tire towards a touring tire, the less chance of success you'll have mounting the tire with the mounting bar. For my 2014 Valkyrie rear tire, I used the demount bar just fine but used only tire irons to mount it. The a few of these tire irons: https://www.jpcycles.com/product/2170075/j-p-cycles-tire-iron-15-curved used with a rim protector or plastic from 2 liter cola bottle will help get the last part of tire over the rim when using tire levers. No Mar's levers are wide. Frank Good luck.

It's back up for sale: https://worcester.craigslist.org/mcy/d/shrewsbury-2000-moto-guzzi-v11-sport/7302014606.html VT4L

One easy check is the exhaust system itself. Especially check that either the port gaskets are a: present and, if so, b: not mullered. I only mention as my monza was baking on one side and it turned out the gaskets had perished- one side pretty much awol which resulted in a dreadful air leak.

And that is why the EU chose, and now retains English as their communal language, despite it being native to none of them.

I use an infrared thermometer and measure on the cylinder head stud next to the spark plug. I find it is more consistent than the exhaust pipe. I also will make adjustments in tunerpro for the cylinder offset map until I get them to be 10 deg difference or less. It is true that there are many variables that could affect the temperature. I think equalizing the temps is a good way to compensate for the many different tolerances involved. But an accurate tune first is needed to minimise these differences. It has been a while but I think I remember getting around 260 to 280 deg on the stud.

Acknowledge the prep, clamping and curing times. I used to follow the Australian Bush Pilot's group on Facebook. It would be great if they flew over here. A bit out of their range though

I feel like I have a > Decent Tune < on MySport lately. Gonna be fun to take some temp readings all around. So many variables. Like: at start up after idling a "few" minutes? After rolling in from a ride, but not after any hard riding? Pulled in, but not idling in no air flow for any length of time ? Not even minutes? No fan over the front of the motor? Soooo many variables to get comparable temps. 50ºF seems like a lot of difference, but IDK. If the exhaust temperature is, say, 500ºF, then 50ºF is 10% and, so: meh.

I used one of those infrared thermometers, read the valve cover, cylinder heads above the exhaust pipe, and the pipes. No crossover in front, just an "X" in the middle and then the mufflers.

Thanks all for your responses. the 3M stuff looks the duck's guts. I'll try and find something suitable and hopefully get the bike going again.

I better get a roll, then. Pretty sure My Sport (and her starter) already heard y'all crowing about this . . . . won't be far down the VooDoo chain now . . .

To answer the original question, I think I covered this in my improving the shift thread didn't I? In any case it should be done on the bench to give an even travel to the mechanism in both directions and eliminate/reduce overtravel in the system. It's not an adjustment for pedal travel or a fiddle to improve poor shifting performance. Ciao

"Magnet Bonding Adhesive" . . . Wow, who knew? (besides gstallons . . . )

The Moto Guzzi Parts Catalog I have (translated to English) calls this the "Tie Rod" and Ball Joints." As to this topic's "eccentric adjustment", I'm pretty sure my personal "Eccentricity Adjuster" is twisted pretty high up the scale . . .

Without a doubt. Ciao

Its got an aluminum flywheel..I saw it through the hole and checked it with a magnet..They weren't " 2 totally different materials"..the articles he is referring to were regarding different quality "Venders" and manufacturing process's very early on, just on the Mandello's.

You can from memory buy a decent Chinese repro version for like $60US or something so why bother? Chuck might chime in as I know he's bought one along with others. Check this ebay item 373086095240 Or https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_159&products_id=4893 Ciao

I think you've left out cooling. Head temp is a direct result of combustion temperature and cooling efficiency (for many various reasons, like airflow and OAT in an air cooled engine and those and other variables in a liquid cooled engine plus oil flow and oil cooling in some cases). It's a complex equation with a lot of variables. Ciao

April 2, that's early up here. 11c and sun, Great. Cheers Tom Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

My rudimentary knowledge of combustion tells me hot can mean a lean mix. First thing I'd look at is a possible air leak into the hot side intake. Like the cap (if you have one) on the balance nipple for the hot side throttle body. Those tend to dry rot. If not that, I would do the check involving a flammable spray onto the intake boot area while idling. While yer at it make sure you have no exhaust leaks. 50 deg doesn't sound like a lot. Is there any color difference to the head pipes? After that ... I'd ask the smart guys.