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Alright, my improved effort:

Same deal with my MZ in a PIle. (tm) Switch gear apart, wires loose everywhere. Sourced a carb because the Distinguished Previous Owner had been in there, too, and broke the float pedestal. DeOxited and hooked everything back up according to the wiring diagram, and it's been good for years.

A recurring theme with running issues of the V11 Moto Guzzi is that a decent tune-up often effects an amazing improvement. It is The First Place to start. This past weekend, we collectively tuned two V11 in the garage of the South'n Spine Raid. Both bikes sounded fabulous after and the members have given good reports on the results. While the *suggested* procedure is fresh in my mind, I figured to get the basics down. There are several ways to achieve a tune-up on a V11, some more time effective and some more elaborate. This one strikes a balance that is approachable by most owners with a little effort and a few tools. ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 1) Valves/ Plugs: When cool (after the bike is off ~45 minutes), remove the plugs, adjust the valves to 0.006"/0.008" (.15mm/.20mm), then gap and install fresh plugs. 2) TPS Baseline: Using a Casper's TPS Breakout Harness (or equivalent), disconnect the right throttle linkage, release the upward facing slotted screw for the high idle cam, back out the difficult to reach 2.5mm hex-drive right-side idle stop set-screw, and clean the throttle butterfly, throttle return spring, and the underside of the throttle bodies (if necessary). It is critically important that the throttle plate is COMPLETELY closed and all of the above have been seen to! Many say to even "snap" the throttle closed a few times (within reason) to seat the plate fully closed. Others "zip-tie" the throttle plate firmly closed. Otherwise, you can simply apply a firm, constant pressure with one hand to ensure the plate is COMPLETELY closed. This indexes the throttle opening to the entire fuel-ignition mapping and cannot be over-emphasized. Loosen the TPS fasteners only enough to tap it or budge it slightly, it is VERY sensitive. Changing the TPS fasteners to standard hex drives (from the factory Torx) simplifies the process (M4-0.7 thread pitch x 17mm long). With a quality voltmeter, connect the positive to the violet/black wire and the negative to the violet (the yellow is not used for this setting). With the Run Switch on, switch on the keyed Ignition Switch. Adjust the TPS to 157 milivolts (most accurate over the factory value of 150 mv). Realize the TPS value changes when it is tightened down, so just repeat until you're in range. Reconnect the throttle linkage and set the high idle cam so it just nudges the throttle when engaged [we will recheck this after the last step, "6) Idle Speed"]. Leave the right-side idle stop backed out. (Some have found using both idle stop screws gives a more stable idle.) (EDIT/May 2019): Having had two TPS go bad after 50,000-62,000 miles/ 79.000-100.000 km, it is simple enough to check the TPS for faults when it is hooked up to the DOM (Digital-Ohm-Meter) . Switch the DVOM to resistance in the 2000 Ohm range with the key off. Slowly and smoothly open and close the throttle body and observe for a smooth transition of increasing and decreasing resistance from the potentiometer (TPS). If there are jumps and glitches or drops and variations in the resistance, the TPS should be replaced. Be certain to set the DVOM back to > DC voltage < before baselining the TPS in millivolts or you'll think something is terribly wrong! 3) CO Fuel Trim: Using guzzidiag software interface (or equivalent), connect your computer to the V11 with the two necessary diagnostic cables. Available from several sources, be certain the OBD cable is properly FTDI chipped. >> Check the Fuel Trim/ CO. If it is deep in the negative double digits, adjust it to zero. That may not be the exact AFR, but it will be immensely better than negative double digits or more (values of -27 to -128 have been reported!). Adjusting the Fuel Trim/CO with Guzzidiag requires the motor to be at operating temperature; simply follow the prompts on Guzzidiag. (The CO Fuel Trim can also be set with TunerPro at any temperature, but that's beyond this basic procedure). >> Don't worry about any other shown values at this point. >> Lambda (oxygen sensor) equipped V11 must have the Lambda sensors turned off in TunerPro. 4) Air Bypass Screws: Turn the upward facing Throttle Body air bypass screws in all the way and back them out one full turn. It is quite common that the tips of these become very sooty along with the passageways. If you have the time and inclination, remove them and clean them and the passageways with some throttle body cleaner. Watch your eyes, Eugene! (There is only a captured O-ring on them and no spring or tiny ball waiting to exit the universe!) [edit/May 2023: These O-rings should be inspected due to their age. Deformed, torn, or damaged O-rings should be replaced.] 5) Throttle Body Balance: Bring the engine to operating temperature. Connect a suitable Throttle Body balance tool like "TwinMax," manometer, alcohol/Hg sticks or the equivalent to the vacuum taps at the junction of the heads. With the white Nylon knob on the left, balance the vacuum at two or three thousand RPM or so (not idle). Make certain the white knob does not interfere with the shock's reservoir or anything else. See that the throttle linkage rod does not foul the speedometer drive on the right side. If you open and close the bell crank of the left throttle body, be certain the cable seats itself back in the groove. [Consider a lock nut against the white knob per Dave Richardson/Guzziology.] Some like to fine tune the idle balance using the air bypass screws, one in a little, one out a little to show good balance at idle. 6) Idle Speed: Let it idle and adjust the 2.5mm hex-drive left-side idle stop set-screw (easy to get to) to put the idle where you and your V11 are happy. Technically 1050+/- 50, I find mine *happier* a little higher (around 1150-1200+). Don't worry over the *degrees of opening* or the TPS idle voltage; seriously, just put the idle where the motor idles nicely for your conditions and liking. Once Steps 1-5 are set, you can put the idle anywhere you want. But you cannot start here. [Be certain the throttle cable has the appropriate freeplay to not pull on the throttle linkage in the idle position. Finally, recheck that the fast idle cam is not making contact, but just nudges the right throttle linkage when engaged.] ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ That's a "decent tune-up." I prefer to tune *early & often* finding that even at 5,000 miles (8.000 km), the V11 runs sweeter after setting the valves, fresh plugs, and a throttle body balance. There is a lot that could be added here, and many well informed owners and technicians do things differently, yet this fairly concise procedure has been shown to give very satisfying results with reasonable effort. As always YMMV, for informational purposes only, and no small furry animals were harmed in the testing procedures.

That your Neutral Light comes on suggests the Neutral Switch and its connection are functional, but does not verify the function of the #3 (middle) relay or its connections. . .

IDK if there is a tool available for this connection . IFIRC , you push the hose in then push the collar back to the hose and move everything away from the fitting . You may have to twist the collar while pushing the fitting off the line. Once you master this , do it a few times and get familiar with the procedure and try to remember it.

Hey Docc, Tks very much for the detailed response. My neutral light is working and lights up when it's in neutral. Re the changing CO trim levels due to not saving properly,I've witnessed that myself,this was different. Iirc it was Beetle, that knew for certain,a bike had been set at ie +20 and at a later date the setting of 20 stayed the same, but the + was now a - with a setting of -20. fwiw,idk. From working it, I can tell, the initial owner of my bike was a good involved owner;when I saw the CO trim at -26, I wondered if possibly, with all of the electrical, connecting/disconnecting,I've done & a dead battery by PO,etc had possibly caused a "burp" in the ECU changing it from +26 to -26. Now that I've got the GD connection issue figured out, when I get back into it, I'll play with it a bit and do those 2 tests with the side stand/neutral to see how it responds. Tks very much for your help

Last weekend

40200km, 6300Euro. Looks clean. Cheers Tom.

Working backward through your inquiries (only to the extent of my understanding and experience, YMMV): The air screws will not appreciably "richen" or "lean" the fueling., expect minutely at idle. No no ever fixed their significant running issues moving the idle screws. I have certainly found mySport idles more reliably at a stop (especially stuck in traffic) in our local hot/humid conditions. I have never sen the CO Fuel Trim on our V11 ECU wander around or reset on its own. That said, it has been observed that an attempt is made to change the CO setting and it appears to reset, but the next time the setting is viewed it never changed and is seen at where it was before the attempt (not that it changed back, but never acctualy changed. The double digit negative settings were common from the factory, and again, is really about throttle plates at idle position and "just cracked open" with less and less effect on air-fuel-ratio as the plates are opened more and the rpm rises into the desirable ranges (over 4,000). I, arbitrarily, moved my CO Trim to 11 chasing what turned out to be minute vacuum leaks at the vacuum taps. I've just left it there. "Maybe" it helps a bit at that 2800 rpm abrupt ignition advance increase in the mapping (but doesn't solve it, especially in high ambient temperatures). Nothing wrong with trying some higher CO settings, but the outcomes are pretty much impossible to quantify. Regarding guzzidiag connectivity, the prompts instruct to leave the Run Switch on and switch the bike on and off with the Ignition Switch. If your V11 would not connect with the sidestand up, I would investigate your "Neutral Switch" circuit. 1) Is your Neutral Indicator Light on with the bike in neutral? 2) Will your bike sit in neutral and run with the sidestand down? 3) Running, in neutral with the sidestand down, (perform this check with the CLUTCH LEVER PULLED IN ! ), when it is shifted into gear does the bike shut off?

"Will the bike start and run in neutral with the stand down? If so, your Run Switch is working fine on the Neutral Switch/relay circuit. There would be no benefit to using the Sidestand Switch instead." "That’s normal. The Clutch Switch only locks out the starter. Once running, it will run in neutral with the stand down?" Hey Docc, In an effort to keep info organized I'm adding this post, hoping that you'll see it and share some insight with me. I struggled like h*ll to get my 2003 V11 Lemans to connect with Guzzidiag to adjust the CO trim. On a whim I tried it with the side stand down and it connected. Imo that's completely counter intuitive, with the side stand down, I thought if anything the safety switch "may" lock out the ignition & GD, but on my bike with the side stand up, clutch pulled in the bike starts and runs, but for some reason, GD won't connect with the side stand up. I saw your a/m posts, re the funky wiring/safety switches and would love to hear your thoughts. Is my bike an anomoly or typical.? Being unable to connect with GD with the side stand up, does that indicate a hidden wiring/connection issue that my flare up and cause me grief? All these funky connection issues that some V11 owners have been reporting, have they solved them mysteriously unaware,by simply putting the side stand down,because that's exactly what I did. While I've got your attention; In my search to cure this issue I stumbled across much info in regards to CO trim levels. I can't remember if it was Beetle,Guzzisteve,Wayne Orwig ?...., but I noted it was someone's opinion that I valued in tuning EFI guzzis; they related that from experience they had witnessed through electrical gremlins that positive CO trim levels, had inverted from initial high positive settings to low negative settings. When I checked my CO trim, it was -26. I'm wondering if that was initially a positive setting. I'm considering +26 as my baseline with my more open breathing leaner tuning set up. I'm running stock air box w bell mouths stretched open a bit, stock headers w crossover, Mistral Cross over, Mistral Carbon Ovals no DbK. My air bypass screws were both seated completely(richer?) I'm following your decent tune up guidelines and have the air bypass screws out one turn (leaner?) After reading much positive feed back from higher CO trim levels, with my set up what are your thoughts? I welcome any input from anybody that has a comment or something I should be thinking about or considering. Tia

S093 is for sale in Germany with Polish registration.

I bought a vintage bike (26 years old, 16 years ago) for $600. Cheap because it was electrically "dead, and I can't figure it out". I thoroughly dressed every connection as mentioned. Grounds as well. Fired up and runs like new, still.

I had to disassemble the terminals from my relay board to tighten and DeOxit the terminals to eliminate the intermittent failures and ghosts. Resign yourself to the tedium and you'll be rewarded.

Hope everyone is well, I got nothing practical to add to the forum but just to say hi, guzzi running great, thanks for the info, i read alot and use it all.

I think patina when I see one like this. Surface rust and lovingly sun faded. Beautiful in it's way.

Yeah that part was really interesting. I had just finished my research when I saw the exhibit, and I found it disappointing that all those panels conformed to the standard narrative of van Gogh, whose story has become somewhat mythical. The standard narrative is that after vincent's death, people took another look at his art and began to appreciate it. But in yet another case where a woman's role has been ignored historically, it was Johanna van Gogh-Bonger who got the world to appreciate Vincent's art. The exhibit made only passing mention of her as his brother Theo's wife, but without her, it is likely that van Gogh's work would have been destroyed. Vincent never sold a painting in his life, so they were all "worthless" when she inherited them. And despite being advise to throw Vincent's paintings away, she worked for many years to get them exhibited. There is a bit of her story here on wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Johanna_van_Gogh-Bonger

“Yet More” because this is about yet another “Mutton Run” to Daviess County in western Kentucky. This one was from 26 - 31 May 2022. I have posted about others before here and elsewhere. Mutton may not be "everyone's cup of tea," but bourbon, beer, and BS seem to see the haters through. And for attendees, these forays are always great fun, which is why, after all, most of us ride. The photos probably tell more than you want to know, but ask if anything is puzzling … and you care. The pix open in “landscape collage,” which means you can look at all at once without slogging through in a rolling one-at-a-time slide show. If you care at all about captions, hover your cursor over the pix. If you don't … well, don't. Here goes: Motos & Mutton May 2022 Bill