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Trying, rather earnestly, to set this TPS again after diligently cleaning the (really dirty) throttle body bores and plates (yeah, I had skipped that step) I really thought I had pinned this down. But then . . . With the multimeter set to resistance (kΩ), rolling the throttle ever-so-slowly, I caught this reading several times at low throttle openings. Yep, that means the TPS goes "open"/disconnects. At which point the ECU just goes to sleep . . . zzzzzzzzzzzzz FWIW, I can never see these TPS failures looking at the mV output. Very telling when the TPS goes "open"/dead looking at the resistance through the TPS/potentiometer at various throttle openings. Makes me more more hopeful the new TPS will address this new falter . . .

What he said. I haven't done it, but I have read a real lot of what Bernd (author of the abovementioned programs) has written in the german forum. One thing in addition to "make sure you have saved your original map before you do anything else. Really sure..." : Bernd recommends having the (fully charged) bike battery on a smart charger when you are doing anything with Guzzidiag and particularly with the reader and writer, and use a power supply for the laptop you are using as well. The one thing you really, really do not want to happen is that a battery (bike or computer...) goes flat during the process. The result of that can easily be this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brick_(electronics)

Highly recommend reading the Guzzidiag tutorial to get familiar with the functionality of Guzzidiag. There are 3 programs: Guzzidiag (reads and resets parameters, sets CO trim, reads faults) Reader - reads and saves your map (bin file) currently on the ECU, you should create a directory on your PC where you will save this bin file. Name it Original with a date xxxx.bin, so you will remember what it is later on. Writer - writes a new map (bin file) to your ECU - this is the Meinolf bin file, or if you have another one from another source. You will need to download these 3 .exe files to a folder on your PC. Once you read thru the Guzzidiag tutorial, and assuming all connects, you should make sure you save your existing map (bin file) to your PC. Generally Windows works more reliably than Mac. Once and ONLY once you have successfully saved your existing map to your PC AND verified you see it in the folder you have created on your PC, then you can close the Reader program. Next, open the Writer program, and select the new map you will have either downloaded from Meinolf or other source. Use the Writer program now to WRITE the new map (bin file) to your ECU. The program will tell you if you have been successful writing the program. Follow the rest of the tutorial, do the full tune up, and ride!

TPS on my Sport has been OK for 50k. The EV has had three or four at 72k. Recently got the whole thing done, cleaned out the TB, reset balance and replaced TPS (actually went through 2, first one sent back). At the same time, got balance & tune, brakes and tires and once over on the Sport. TPS OK. I hope my Guzzi fiddling is done for a few years. I've thought about getting rid of the EV and sometimes the Sport but once I ride them, especially when they're running RIGHT, they put a smile on face. Since I've got them back the Duc was been ridden about half as before.

Yeah, I have no doubt Meinolf's Map, especially in the last version, embodies intelligent improvements and refinements over the factory mapping. Yet, I have long been the poster child for the factory map. In fact, my Sport had never run better until this latest tune-up. So, for sure I mucked something up. First, I had to be certain the non-metric O-rings I put on the air bypass screws were not the problem. They weren't. Then, it became all about finding the "fully and completely closed" throttle position to baseline the TPS (what with my worn 130,000 mile throttle shafts). After maybe five or six tries at the TPS setting, it runs great. Once warmed up and with the throttle changing or well open. The falter is decidedly throttle position specific. You know, that barely cracked throttle we use to make a tight parking lot turn or pull out into traffic. The worse possible times to falter. The first response is more throttle. St. Vitus Dance on a 500 pound motorcycle with the front wheel turned in a slow speed maneuver is bad form, at the very least. So, next is a replacement TPS. Coming down to the wire, Waddington and me . . .

The garage is probably even harder to find than a nice place to stay

Some people (including me) connect both nipples with a tee to a single drain line.

If this falter were longstanding or gradual onset, I too would suspect "mapping" or injectors. But it was there, new, upon start-up after the "Tune-up." As usual, I figured it was "something I did." The fact that I cannot find the perfect TPS setting now is maddening. I have no idea why the TPS could "go bad" with a setting change except that it was in a sweet spot before and now I keep setting it where there is a fault in the potentiometer. 17,000 miles on this "California Cycle Works" PF3C. To be determined if a new TPS addresses the issue . . . Valves are 0.006/0.008" I/E. With only 4250 miles since the last valve adjustment, the left needed no change and I loosened the right "maybe" 0.0005". Enough to make the feeler gauge slide easier rather than tightly. I was jazzed with this since I have been monitoring a left exhaust valve tightening up over the years.

I'm exploring the possibility of holding a Spine Raid in VA next year the weekend after the 4th of July 2024. I'm still looking at locations but this one is a good possibility: https://www.breakspark.com/the-lodge I've also roughed out a 5 hour ride for Saturday. May possibly add a side route that takes us up to Burkes Garden. Other possibilities are the Tazewell and Wytheville areas but there doesn't seem to be anything other than hotels for lodging. Buchanan County ⇄ Corner.gpx

If reading correct, she was running fine before the only change was the Mistrals ? The rev sensor coud work fine when cold, but act up when hot. Coud have correct readings when cold, was it between 550 700ohm, but bad readings when hot. If needed I can get the correct #'s tomorrow. And as docc said TPS can be Ohm'nd. It will be sorted. Cheers Tom.

What you wrote about "consistenly repeatable" sounds a lot like you are on the right track. That is one of the fundamentals of isolating problems. Why not? It is so easy to type: left forefinger,right ring finger, left ring finger. Nothing to it.

Otherwise, other than the TPS, I have no explanation for what the Sport is doing now. I'll know tomorrow if this new TPS addresses the issue. At that point, I will have feedback on the ca-cycleworks TPS and will likely split these TPS posts to a dedicated TPS thread. At which point I don't want to type "TPS" again for a long time . . .

One thing to bear in mind P6X is that the Stelvio, particularly the NTX version which has the larger 8.5 gallon gas tank aside from being heavier, will also be a lot more top heavy. Maneuvering it around will require more strength/caution than the V11. But both the Norge and the Stelvio have great carrying capacity and are fantastic for long distance journeys.

docc, you have, of course, excluded the possibility that the multimeter has a dickey connection? No offense meant, but someone has to ask the dumb questions...

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/

Randy, it’s hard to replicate the perfect location & accommodations of The Lodge at Tellico. A garage isn’t necessary but seems to be a piece of the Spine Raid puzzle.

Thanks. I connected a short hose to a safe(r) location. Filter was due, but could be a lot worse.

Correct. Two nipples under the tank. Seems like some regions the vent was left open to atmosphere?

Bingo to all of that!

Taking my Falter Struggle back to the Air Bypass thread and give Joe his topic back . . .

A Duc, a Yamaha, and a Beemer all with intense riders. It's going to be interesting.

...and this is what drove me mad for a while as well, when I fiddled with my TPS for the first time as well a few months ago...hopefully the new one solves the problem. It would be nice if these mechanical devices would have a digital readout on them so one could see it all the time w/o having to connect up the Casper cable all the time to measure it. Of course, an easier way to adjust the right hand side idle screw would also be nice, it's a royal PITA to get to all of the time... All the best on finding the culprit...nothing like an annoying cough, surely there's some Robitussin for these V11's one could apply w/o having to go thru so many gyrations!

I can truly relate to this Docc, it took me several, well many attempts to get the TPS all working…it’s too sensitive a system but so be it…once charmed into position, it is fantastic. I had replaced my TPS as well based on your recommendation so hopefully that solves your issue as well. Worst case scenario the fuel injectors need reconditioning to fine tune it…I wish there was some after market modification to the TPS… Out of curiosity what do you set your valves to? Hopefully all Comes together in time for the Spring raid!

Anyone who tries to go there will notice immediately, but here a heads-up: Stein-Dinse has shut down their old online address at Stein-dinse.biz . The site is still there, and the new adress is visible there, but it is only for reference now. The new site is at https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/ so if anyone is planning on ordering something from them, you may as well go straight there. The search by parts lists is still available, and actually improved. It is to be found by scrolling down a bit; the icon is on the left of the page.

Nothing like a nasty cough to annoy one on these finicky V11’s…have you thought about adding Meinolf’s map to the mix…I am thoroughly happy with having done it.

You can do it docc. I have faith in you.

Docc, 🌦️

Wow Marquez on this GP.... Incredible what he managed to achieve with an inferior bike. He could have let it go and finish third, but he went all in...

FFP/BH . . . Far From Perfect/ But Hopeful . . . .

From MG Cycle, the rear Brembo "carbon ceramic"/ blue back GF were $26.43US/pair in October 2022. That same order, the front Brembo "sinter"/ red back SHH (that I had to take off immediately) were $34.67US. The front Brembo (OE)/ black back FF from OPP Racing I just received were $44.50US. YMMV I just rode some miles to do a bedding exercise on those new pads and they have great feel, no excessive dusting, and don't sound like a lathe rolling the sport up onto the lift.

I agree with Marty. The red on the RM is the sexiest red paint,I've ever seen on anything. That RM is extremely well kitted;the retail price of the extras alone, in total;probably add up to the asking price.

Further riding this afternoon and I find the change from the #008 O-rings to the 4mmx2 metric made no difference. Seems the #008 will work fine as far as I can tell. Just make certain the O-rings are fuel compatible (preferably Viton, although Nitrile/BUNA-N is probably fine. Nothing from the ACE plumbing aisle! ) My bad running issues look to be down to a bad TPS setting . . . Close, but no good.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/mcy/d/kirkland-2001-moto-guzzi-v11sport/7618725612.html $6500 What is it with these expensive Greenies? Are people finally appreciating the beauty?

My "OE" Brembo pads should arrive in a couple more days from OPP Racing, Washington USA. I had to remove the Brembo "Sinter" pads after just 80 miles. I could already see/hear the rotors scoring. YMMV, but I have had very poor results (excessive rotor wear) from HH rated pads on my V11 before. It seems the OE pads, and our rotors, are rated FF. Certainly not "SHH."

I'll bet this fellow, @nakaimoto, can't wait for the "shipping soon!"

So you're losing slightly over a Volt through the wiring. I find that too much. Quite apart from your brake light problem (or maybe in connection with it...), I would be going through the wiring harness and checking and cleaning connections all the way.

Just installed a odyssey battery and I did check the voltage on that, that reading at about 12.75

My brother, who got me into motorcycling, performed this valuable life-learning experience for my eternal benefit . . .