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#1, try well known relays. #2, extra start relay. It's all here on the forum. Very seldom some strange things going on, not been mentioned here before. What I have learned about the V11, WHAT a forum, THANKS. Cheers Tom.

For clearing out starter and battery, very simple, I just take a pice of wire, from starter solenoid to + cable. And have you put in an extra start relay ? Problem gone. Cheers Tom.

Yes, I also have learned a lot here. I'm working through it myself because I want to understand it. I'm documenting it in the hope that this might help someone else understand what is going on better, and because writing helps me think it through.

Hi, been looking into this (have not tried to map it yet, I'm waiting on cables) and I'm running a Mac OS Ventura 13.3. I reached out directly to FTDI for the USB plugin and here is their response (below) . Hope this helps some folks. As for the Guzzidiag application - the GuzziDiag_V0.46.app.zip worked fine on my Mac - as long as I placed in my Applications folder. If folks are having trouble getting it installed because of a permission issue here is a video on how to change permissions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWSySXfR17c FTDI RESPONSE: Our latest Mac OS DEXT VCP driver (1_5_0) will work with Mac OS 13 Ventura. DEXT Driver Install for Monterey/Ventura: The AppleFTDI driver for Mac OS Ventura (13.x) uses a DEXT (DriverKit extension ), not a KEXT (kernel extension driver) You need to use the DEXT based FTDI v1_5_0 Mac VCP driver for Ventura. Here is how to install the FTDI Mac OS Dext driver v 1_5_0 on your Mac: On your Mac, go to System Settings/Privacy and Security. Select the check box for “Allow Applications Downloaded from App Store and Identified Developers” Copy the downloaded app file (extracted from Zip) to the /Applications directory (under root) In the Applications folder, just double click on “FTDIUSBSerialDextInstaller_1_5_0” You should see the following pop-up: click on the “Install FTDI USB Serial Dext VCP” pushbutton, and you should get confirmation of the installation: The 1_5_0 driver was tested on a Mac Mini M1 running Mac OS Ventura.

Well, the travel does not mean much. The landscape is different, but the greatest discovery are the people you meet. This is probably the illuminating experience I retained from having lived in different places. There are plenty of places which I would love to go back to, and explore again on a motorcycle.

This . . . +1 Ah , yes, a 2002 V11 would be prone to Startus Interuptus . You have good indications to clean/service your Ignition Switch and make plans for the additional @Kiwi_Roy Relay for the starting . . .

Yes, I am considering swapping to see if it makes any difference. If it does, I will get some new relays. Thanks for the confirmation. I was already thinking that would be the one to take. The relays in my V11 are all the same, and all 5 pin. They are these: @Tomchri I haven't added another relay yet, but I'm considering doing exactly that very seriously.

I was at it again today with the charged battery. It showed just over 13V fresh off the charger, and still 12.6V or so after several rounds of activating the starter to measure things. I pulled the #4 relay to de-activate the ECU, and unplugged the fuel pump, so I could activate the starter without starting the motor every time. What I found was: Voltage across the battery didn't go under 10V. According to various reliable sources, that is ok. As mentioned, after all the measurements the battery was still delivering about 12.6V. I'm beginning to hope that it is still ok, and was just not fully charged. The charging system seems to be ok. Just over 13V at the battery at idle, and about 13.8V when revved up a bit. I didn't see more that just on 14V. That was a very quick measurement, as the bike was running in a closed garage, and I'm very careful about exhaust gases. Nevertheless, it looks ok, I think. At the contact on the starter for the solenoid, i.e. the blade connector, I was seeing about 9.6V. At the moment I don't really know where the other 3 and a bit Volts are going. I need to do some more thinking about resistors in series and the resulting voltage divider characteristics. Maybe have a chat to my colleague who really knows about electrical and electronic circuits. I did the Caig Deoxit business on the fuses. The relays got done on Monday. A further experiment might be to swap the #1 relay with one of the other ones, and see if that makes any difference. Anyway, I had the impression today that maybe the starting problem is cleared up. Up till now, 3 or 4 start attempts would always result in at least one with only a click instead of the starter firing up. Today I didn't have any failures. The bike is overdue for its bi-annual roadworthy inspection. I'm going to take it in next Tuesday for that. I probably wont do anything further until then. Maybe I'll just ride it a couple of times after that, and see how the battery holds up, and if the problem crops up again.

I think so, yes. One thing to know is that the factory clip-ons mounted above the T-clamp are very shallow with only one pinch bolt and most aftermarket clips are taller. The point I was trying to make is that depending on your forks setup, you might have to raise the fork legs to accommodate for the difference. On the earlier models with the top of the fork tubes flush with the top of the upper T-clamp, if the intent is to raise the bars, they would need to be mounted above the T-clamp and you would definitely have to raise the fork legs a significant amount which would change the bike’s geometry and disrupt its balance. None of that jazz with the MPH risers, they can be bolted directly to the factory clips, whether mounted above or below the T-clamp, no need to mess with the forks. They even allow for a bit of fore and aft adjustment and come with longer hydraulic lines. In most cases, when the bars are raised, longer clutch and brake lines are most certainly needed.

IIRC, the diameter of the fork sliders changed (increased) between early and later V11, but the clip-on/triple tree clamping diameter remained unchanged. Just from memory: 53mm? Not at all sure if memory serves there, but pretty sure the upper diameter of various V11 forks are the same.

Mate When you get away from the coast here in Oz the heat tends to be a drier heat and not as draining on you but still need to be wary of it as it does still knock you about.It sounds like the conditions you describe in Kazakhstan and other desert environments. I was a fair bit more resilient when younger ( ha ha weren't we all ) and coped but wasn't really keen on it. The weather is changing and as I mentioned we're getting some ( albeit lesser ) humidity coming down from the north here and I don't like it at all. Ha ha I grew up in CHCH ( Christchurch ) New Zealand and on the odd occasion ( very odd occasion I might add ) it hit 30 degrees and the nor wester came through it knocked the tripe out of us.... Nigh on 40 years here in Oz and I'm better with heat now ( blood thinned out a bit?) but still reckon I'm warm blooded and handle the cold better! Cheers Ps plus one on the layering of gear too!

hmm... Usually, updated software versions propose new functionalities that nobody required, supposedly enhancements of existing features that worked perfectly before, fixes the bugs, and of course introduce new bugs that will require fixing in the subsequent version. I fully get your hesitation. However, on my MacBook, the run window no longer espouses the display size; and of course, I still can't talk to the interface.

Poor Norge. It looks like it has had a hard life.

I was going to put this in the 'what did you do today' forum but it's better here I think. So I started the painful process of de-watering my fuel system. Again. My fuel cap has had a bad gasket for some time, and although I cleaned them I thought recently, my vent/drain are plugged. Again. I rolled the dice on ordering an Oberon fuel filler, Aprilia Fuel Cap FUE-7040 is a perfect fit. The first at-hand was to fix the vents, and since they're coiled up like snakes inside the tank there's no wire to run through them. I used a small syringe to get some Ospho into them for a couple minutes, then blew it through with air. Rinse and repeat 3 or 4 times. Same with under the fuel cap, which I'd tried to seal up with tank sealer; it didn't adhere well and peeled out easily. So to the steel wool. After the vents and fuel entry were clean and dry, I shot some Cosmoline into the vents and blew that through a few times as well, and spread it around the bare metal on the top. The Oberon cap was a simple 3 screw replacement save shaving a tiny bit off the vent protrusion with a jeweler's file. The Oberon cap fits close in the tank opening, with no space for the rubber gasket used by the stock setup- but the stock setup was crap so I don't think it will be a problem. Between this and the fuel valve both again, I'll make both the fuel filler/tank top and the fuel valve at least yearly maintenance items. I'll add a photo or two of the fuel valve to an existing thread.

Have you read all the posts on this site that use the words "Startus Interuptus"?

See repair/overhaul advice here: http://www.largiader.com/tech/valeo/ http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/boschvaleostarter.htm http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/valeo-starter-refresh.954653/ You could also search this site for "valeo". You will be going down a well trodden path

I also used vaseline. Lately it was not really necessary so no recent experience. I do have a nice anekdote on this however. I had done the righthand switches of my LM2 before going to Mandello a few decades ago. All worked fine and I parked the guzzi outside Il Giardinetto (it was a hotel back in those days) on the side where the ramp to the lake was. Two days later we were about to return home and everything was packed. I pushed the starter and nothing happened. Kill switch was in RUN, so I pushed again and smoke and a smell of burn came out of the switch. Immediately after a large bunch of ants were evacuating the switch. Be carefull with vaseline in your switches when parking in Mandello next to Il Giardinetto. There are vaseline eating ants.

I've had good results with electrical switches, after cleaning as you did, by using a generous blob of grease designed for switches. Lubriplate DS-ES is one of those that is easy to get if you live in USA. It protects switches against effects of hot/cold & wet/dry cycles. https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/DS-ES/DS-ES/

If you give me some time Docc I might be able to do something like that. I've done a good amount of fiddling with guzzidiag. No expert but with a correct setup I can walk through it.

This reminds me of a similar near miss that happened to me in May this year, when a pickup truck trailing a boat turned in front of me. If a driver decides to turn into your lane because he did not see you, thought he had enough time to clear the road, you are in for a rough time.... This is when an airbag may have helped. I have a TechAIR 5 which I only wore once. In this weather, it is just impossible to bear.

....suppose this was inevitable my apologies if already posted