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And enough of this "hippo skull" talk! Chicks dig these things like nothing else . . .

Replace the airbox. K & N air filters don't and offer an easy way to diminish the life of your engine and offer zero performance advantage. The stock airbox works quite well. When I bought the 'Mighty Scura RC' many years ago the very first modification I did was refitting the stock airbox and both of the owners who have had it since I moved it on, (Chuck and Kidsmoke.) will attest that that bike, which has a fairly radically worked motor, goes like ordure off an earth moving implement!

My airbox is off at the moment, so I took a look. The hex head bolts holding the airbox lid down are 6mm dia x1mm pitch, length 82 & 30mm from under head to end. The screws attaching the side panels to the airbox are button head chrome or SS 5 x 0.8mm 12 mm length. The brass nipple is for the engine breather hose from the banjo at the top of the spine. Any oil resistant low pressure hose will keep oil vapour from making a mess. There should be an air temperature sensor on the front of the airbox. If it's not there, the ECU will assume a default temp, and the engine will be out of tune if the air temperature is not 20°C. The 2 screws on the rear of the airbox attach angle brackets going to frame mounts. You need those. The engine is sensitive to air leaks, so replace the cracked intake boots. The designer took some trouble to optimise the intake system, and you are restoring to that. Expect the engine to run better over the rev range, and with proper air filtration, when you finish.

Not exactly, but close. Our mounting blocks "dovetail" together, between each, and each has a mounting tab, with hole, on "the back side". I can't get an image that is clear. Looks like: 3 334 486 065 and a logo that maybe looks like an "E" in a circle. edit: Okay, here we go: https://rct-global.com/part/base-to-suit-micro-relay-mountable-bosch-3-334-485-045/

Have a look here. Wendel is kind enough to actually state the dimensions of some of the screws. Maybe it will help you. https://wendelmotorraeder.de/luftfilter-v11-02-le-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020310_300602031027.html As far as the rubber bits go: anything that looks old and deteriorated before the throttle bodies should be replaced in the course of time, but is not extremely critical. Between the throttle bodies and the motor is important. If anything there looks old, replace it. If you get air leaks there, it can do really weird things to the way the motor runs.

I also recommend reading the document called "How to remap your bike for CARC, Breva 750, V7 Classic, California 1100" found at the end of that hyperlink. It told me all I needed to know. I just went through this last week. http://griso.org/

"Sold the V11, bought a different bike". Really? Well sort off... I have always admired the look of the V11 with the higher mounted Titanium exhausts, and once came very close to buying a pair, however they were damaged and I liked the look of the original carbon-fiber ones on my Mandello Rosso better. So when a member on here offered a set of carbon high-mount Gianelli's for sale, I went for it. He also threw a Stucchi crossover into the deal (thanks Crazyhorse!). Mounted them last Tuesday. Oh my, what a sound! Not much louder, but a whole lot deeper. But, did I imagine it revving much quicker between 3000 and 5000 rpm? Went for a ride. I'm not sure how much is to contribute to the Gianelli cans or to the Stucchi crossover, but WHAT a difference in mid-range pull! From 3000rpms onwards she just goes and goes. Like I bought a different bike.

The brass nipple at the left front is for the crankcase vent off the banjo bolt at the front top of the spine frame behind the headset. Square hole at the right front is for the air temperature sensor. You'll have to find where that has been put and put it back.

I spoke to the previous owner of the Quota 1100ES whom installed a long breather hose from that plug. He did it because he had heard from other users that water could enter the rear drive from there. So, Q.E.D. then!!! (quod erat demonstrandum) for those who never had to study Greek at school...

Look here:

Ah, yes, what I thought might be an "E" in a circle logo looks to be Bosch:

This . . . +1 Ah , yes, a 2002 V11 would be prone to Startus Interuptus . You have good indications to clean/service your Ignition Switch and make plans for the additional @Kiwi_Roy Relay for the starting . . .

Not sure where your fuel supply goes off the fuel tap, downward like that . . . More commonly, that line goes forward to the fuel pump (sometimes to the filter first):

It was tried in the seventies by an endurance racing team in Europe, a complete disaster, it shed the heads off exhaust valves like confetti. There's a reason the exhausts exit into the airflow. With the race team there was some crackpot theory about getting some supercharging effect from the bell mouths facing forward. With this bit of hubristic, dunderhead engineering even that doesn't fly because it's wearing foam rock strainers! This sort of nonsense seems popular with Germans for some reason.

yeah yeah...ipso facto and cogito ergo sum... 4 years of Latin in school...got to love Caesar and The Gallic wars and a bit of Cicero. Fond memories of Declensions and Conjugations, Tenses, Moods etc... Just to piss off our old Irish, ex priest Latin teacher, we'd all sing from time to time: Latin is a language As dead as dead can be First it killed Caesar and Now it's killing me! QED

There is another factor that needs to be accounted for; When I learned to drive in 70's, it was a big deal. I remember being always focused and determined and putting into good use all that I had learned at the driving school. In Europe, back then, you could only learn to drive with a dual command equipped vehicle, under supervision of someone trained to teach driving. In the 80's, I joined a company which defined driving as the most dangerous task of our job. They implemented specif programs to enhance our driving skills. I was lucky to participate to some of these early programs, teaching us to drive cars in the bush, in the desert; later on, they hired drivers to take us to jobs. But for everyone, they had a review system taking place every six months, no matter what. You would drive a car and your driving would be reviewed by a professional and rated. This included what they called a "commentary driving"; you would drive and describe all that you saw and did. Plus various online assessments. Let's be honest here. Driving is no longer anything people consider as something that requires skills. They do it matter of fact, just like they breath. Parents teach their kids to drive, qualified or not. As a result, the required amount of attention to execute the task has diminished. Nobody driving today puts in question their skills. Everyone is a good driver. Distracted driving always existed; starting with the radios, cassettes, 8 tracks, CD players. Today, we have reached the apex of reckless driving since post Covid it appears people no longer feel the posted speed limits should concern them. Even motorcyclists have communication systems now, that could deter them from being scanning danger. Today, nobody cares about driving. Possibly in the years to come, once auto-pilots equip every car, some of those accidents may not happen again. Until then, it is up to us to pay attention for those who don't.

Thanks docc. Looks like that is not too hard to source.

Had that apart about six months ago. Someone broke the back off it whilst it was parked on the street. I mentioned it here at the time. You may recall having seen this photo here already: Nevertheless, I'll be taking that apart again some time soon. There is still a small problem to deal with (which doesn't affect the operation...) As already mentioned, the thoughts are already churning regarding an additional relay.

I think I read somewhere that the average driver's depth perception doesn't register the single headlight of a motorcycle as accurately as the two headlights of a car, and helps contribute to the frequency of the cross-lane T-bone. I've experienced this myself at night with both oncoming motorcycles and cars with a burnt out headlight! One of the bazillion "danger flags" that bubble through the cauldron of my safety zone thoughts while out on the road...

#1, try well known relays. #2, extra start relay. It's all here on the forum. Very seldom some strange things going on, not been mentioned here before. What I have learned about the V11, WHAT a forum, THANKS. Cheers Tom.

They already have. I don't know how long it is likely to take, but I'm pretty sure Bernd has at least started thinking about that. As far as hosting the programme on a server goes, I wouldn't want that. That would require internet access in the garage, which I don't have. I think that would be a stopper for a relevant number of potential users.

I thought I was just a hack for leaving mine open continuously! I'm intrigued. YES

I'm being pretty careful about dropping it in like you have to do for a very short landing. People bending landing gear is pretty common with these birds. The gear is really delicate, not to mention the BMX bicycle wheels I'm using.

I leave mine open and it seems all is well, however should anything go wrong, we have no choice for replacement. I've also removed my tank far too many times for any number of reasons and even if I close my OEM petcock, it still flows. My final answer, yes.

As promised before, here's a (46 minutes) video of my (boring) ride from Medina to Leakey in Texas... This took place in May 26th, within the Motorcycle Grand Tour of Texas 2023. The video image quality is poor, unfortunately, due to vibrations. I used a dampener, but it did not really filtrate anything; rather, I think it made the viewing worse. Another issue I experienced is that my DGI Osmo pocket 2, equipped with gimbals, cannot take the wind pressure. The gimbals lock up. Even if located behind the screen, there was enough buffeting to stop the recording each time I would go above 40 mph. I ran some tests before, as my intention was to provide footage of a Moto Guzzi V11 Le Mans. Unfortunately my tests were not ran at normal speed, so I did not discover the gimbals lockup until I was running on the 337. Editing and publishing the video is another ordeal. Manipulating large files, uploading large files require better computer power than what I currently have. Anyway, here's the footage. I suggest you watch it while you have coffee in the morning, before you go to work. Put it on your TV screen, and let it run in the background.... for 46 minutes lol....

A picture? Why.. yes, yes I do. Back in the day, I used to rent a Cub for $5 an hour wet. I've been flying less and less over the years..just the operating expense is staggering to this cheap Guzzi Guy, even considering I build/maintain my own airplanes and don't have to pay hanger rent. Most of my flying has been from point A to point A anyway, so needing *something to do* during Covid, I built Bullet. As in slower than a speeding.. Two gallons per hour of auto fuel. Here, we had just returned from a Dawn Patrol.. no enemy ships or balloons encountered, all quiet on the Western front.

I followed @Lucky Phil's experience and advice and fixed 1 leaking tap. 2 more to go. Steps are: enlarge the O-ring grooves, machine an anti-rotation slot in the plunger, adapt screw to make an anti-rotation pin, tap a hole to the valve body, fit bronze anti-friction washers on each side of the knob, put sealant under the anti-rotation pin, assemble with fuel resistant grease. @cash1000 tells me that his modified tap is easy to open/close, and it doesn't leak.

Yes. But not much wrong with the org design. I leavem open, and deal with it when. For sure take 1 or when measurements and look shows up Cheers Tom.

I had the same problem on the 2003 Lemans I bought. I think it's MPH cycles that sells the stainless steel collars that will fix the problem. Around $70 if I remember right. Dave

That is where I was last weekend, on the shores of the Eder Reservoir (Edersee) for the annual rally of the german language forum that I am active in. Cold at night in the tent, but lovely sunny weather during the day. Here are a couple of pictures: ( the GTR 100 on the left is mine. I went to a Guzzi Rally on a Kawasaki, but don't tell anyone... ) There were two spine frames there, the greenie on the right in the second photo, and a rather pretty 2002 Le Mans in red. The greenie had only fairly recently been bought by its current owner, and had a couple of issues, so it got looked at by the experts (and fixed...). The friendly looking bloke in the red t-shirt is Bernd, the author of the Guzzidiag programme. (If anyone should wonder why he is staring into a cardboard box, his laptop is in there. The box is so that he can read the screen in the bright sunlight.) PS: sorry it is such a shitty photo. Shot from the hip with a telefon in full sunlight, so I couldn't really see how the photo was going to turn out. I'll try harder next time...

So great to see a picture of the GuzziDiag developer! I love the way the guy in the red hat appears to be standing at attention, saluting. I don't get that at SpineRaids . . .

This is the cure to my "no crank" issue that plagued my engine startups in 2021 and 2022. Now each time I depress the starter button, the starter motor cranks! @MartyNZ I simply followed your advice; one was to take apart the ignition switch and clean up the contacts, the second was to fully get rid of the problem by adding an extra relay.

Check,check & recheck,that the relays are snugged in tight to their mounts. I noticed a few times when the seat was off,that my 2nd relay from the front appeared off kilter and not firmly pressed into place;I thought that I was hitting it with my arm or something when I was moving stuff around. It turns out,there seems to be interference with one of the reinforcing splines molded into the bottom of my seat pan,it has to slide down into a narrow empty space beside the relays. My ITI black face tach stopped working the other day and after reading horror stories about over charging and gauge failures,I was prepared for the worst;but when I removed the seat to verify the fuses,that same relay was a little loose and I could see the interference with the seat pan. Connections all verified and the seat replaced very carefully,the tach has come back to life and all seems good. fwiw

Just ordered a proper motorcycle stand (and some cool stickers) from mgcycle. Going to reinstall the airbox this summer.

My bike came w/the K&N setup. I didn't like the noise and reinstalled the factory airbox. You might replace the air filter once every 3 years so don't worry about it .

My old tub may be breathing rather more oil into its airbox than most. Yet, it is not on its sidestand very much, living rather languishingly above the footlights on her dais. Still, that "vapor line" from the frame spine to the airbox connects to the left side? Am I recalling that correctly? And it only pushes on? No clamps?

....suppose this was inevitable my apologies if already posted