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Man, I would so re-seat that left throttle body into the intake rubber and restart, if even briefly. The very low idle from the dislodged throttle body could be all there is to the oil light. My recent Horrible Noise Story: At the Kentucky SpineRaid, I had (somehow) mis-set my new TPS (like nine steps off on the map, 95 mV instead of 157). At idle the beating, banging mechanical noise was deftly disturbing. At start-up to head home, @kalev11's eyes got wide. He said some thing like, "I hope you actually get back home." Turns out, with the TPS indexed that far off, the battering of the motor trying to run was alarming. While this case is not the same, a throttle body off its runner could be the culprit . . .

Kinda looks like the left throttle body may have burped itself off the intake rubber. just trying the simple things first.

It's very, very unlikely to be oil pump. Possibly a loose filter or the old filter gasket wasn't removed when the filter was last changed.

True, fair point. I have tried to shift up from 6th a few times on the open road, but it takes about the same time to attempt the shift as to glance down at a shift indicator, so I don't think I need it there. I have also found myself trying to select neutral by shifting up from 2nd instead of 1st, so an indicator could be handy there. The aftermarket shift indicators I've seen would look clumsy on my bike, so I'm prepared to go without.

I hate these perpetual drift threads. Hate 'em. Find nothing/go nowhere. "Whatever" . . .

What I did today: gave the V11 a run. Once again only about 80km, once again lots of fun. I'm still not really satisfied with the state it is in, but I just couldn't resist going for a ride. The starting problem, see here https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/28565-starter-button/ didn't show up today, so that is good. Also good: the fuel light was just starting to glow as I arrived home. Since I still haven't had the tank off, and plan on doing that as soon as possible, it is good that the tank is empty. I hope to get onto that this week, but that depends a bit on the new hose for the breather system arriving soon.

It will be going in for service next week. Thank you for the suggestions everyone. @andy york I checked under the boot, there's some leaking fuel there though this is not conclusive (per docc's post on not pressurizing the fuel system & this one). @footgoose I will try that, thanks for the suggestion. @audiomick will also get the pan dropped, it wasn't dropped on the last oil change. With fresh fluids and a test ride that didn't indicate anything wrong, the mechanic seems to think it isn't the big end, so I'm hoping against hope that this is not a big-end problem, though that intermittent oil light gives me nightmares. Currently searching the forum for oil lamp and oil pump issues.

I suppose I prefer posting technical inquiries in dedicated, specific topics. That often will focus comments and links and help clarify our knowledge base. It takes a bit longer for the poster to find a starting point, but I think the outcome is more valuable. Often, someone will bring back an old thread and it gets refreshed with newer discoveries and the comments of newer members. Those "on-topic" threads are great resources for trying to learn some particular aspect of these V11. Just my opinion. Y'all carry on . . .

and check the rubbers for dry rot cracks. the right one is suspect. get the left one reinstalled and do the "spray to reveal leaks" test on both

Well spotted. Phil

I have seen less than four oil pump problems im 50 yrs of tinkering w/things. Historically , oil filters n o-rings are at the top of the list .

AFAIK the V11 is a 6 speed box, mechanical drive speedo, electrical tacho I think (the nearest bike I've got is a Sporti, but that's a 5 speeder) Most gear indicators need electrical pulse signals, so you'd need to have something that would generate a pulse signal that vairied with speed. I used a pickup registering off the rear disc bolts and got some guys at my tame machine shop to make me a carrier to mount it, that was for a replacement speedo for the sporti. You'll probably get the "you shouldn't be riding if you don't know what gear your in" or the "can't you count" or "you don't need one just go up or down depending on revs" Ignore them, with my 5 speed bikes I don't really need an indicator, but find it's easy to get confused with a 6 speed box and I'm glad I've got one on the BMW R9T

I've read about that somewhere. Not sure if it was here. If I remember rightly, what I read referred to a part from a Griso. I reckon it must be part #12 on this drawing: https://wendelmotorraeder.de/kupplungspumpe-griso-1100-05-08-ex-30_3006_300612_30061210_3006121025.html The drawing at that shop for the clutch hydraulics for the Breva 1100 looks like exactly the same drawing, and the part number for that part is the same: 1038964 GU05606630 whereby the GU number is the Guzzi part number, as far as I know.

From Facebook re: bleeding the clutch Q: OK folks who has a tip on bleeding the clutch without removing the wheel? Last time i did it my son learned some new ”expressions” A: i added a braided extension hose off a Breva that fits so now the bleed nipple is out near where the sidestand foot sits when lifted up/moving/ riding Cost me $50. Now bleeding the clutch is a breeze Attaches to the bolt on sump that has the sidestand bash plate on it at the gear lever rear corner of sump I used a small rubber lined P clip to go from bolt around the hose A: Just ise 2 ring spanners to hold line and other to crack open/close the bleed nipple as needed A: You can fit a wrench on the bleed nipple and then just open, squeeze the clutch handle, then close and release the clutch handle. Cursing doesn’t make it any faster, just more enjoyable. A: You are better to not pump it just open the bleeder and let drip out and keep it topped up. Lock the bleeder off and give it a couple of pumps and release. Open bleeder let it drain and repeat till fluid is clean. That’s how I do it.

Yes, be careful, even whilst having fun. I haven't had mine on the Autobahn yet, but one fine day... I hope to have the Navigator mount on it by then, and then I will also know what the real speed is. I'm curious. A good "loop" for that sort of game starting from where I live is westwards out of town to Junction 17, head south to the cloverleaf, then east to Junction 29 and back in to town. Going by the map, that's about 33 km. of Autobahn. https://www.openstreetmap.org/search?query=Leipzig#map=11/51.3205/12.3304 The first bit down to the cloverleaf is 3 lanes both ways, and the whole stretch is mostly unrestricted. With a bit of luck at the right time of day on the right day, barring roadworks, there is nothing stopping you from opening the throttle to the stop and just holding it there until common sense prevails. Germany does have some good sides.

And then there is this - a nice 2007 Griso 1100 with 21k miles for only $3,900... I know, it's not a V11 Sport... but what a deal! https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/mcy/d/santa-clara-moto-guzzi-griso-1100/7631092859.html

2000 V11S Greenie, 32k miles, $4,300 posted in SF Bay Area. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/mcy/d/redwood-city-moto-guzzi-v11-sport/7631462253.html

Had that apart about six months ago. Someone broke the back off it whilst it was parked on the street. I mentioned it here at the time. You may recall having seen this photo here already: Nevertheless, I'll be taking that apart again some time soon. There is still a small problem to deal with (which doesn't affect the operation...) As already mentioned, the thoughts are already churning regarding an additional relay.

This . . . +1 Ah , yes, a 2002 V11 would be prone to Startus Interuptus . You have good indications to clean/service your Ignition Switch and make plans for the additional @Kiwi_Roy Relay for the starting . . .

Yes, I also have learned a lot here. I'm working through it myself because I want to understand it. I'm documenting it in the hope that this might help someone else understand what is going on better, and because writing helps me think it through.

#1, try well known relays. #2, extra start relay. It's all here on the forum. Very seldom some strange things going on, not been mentioned here before. What I have learned about the V11, WHAT a forum, THANKS. Cheers Tom.

She was born a Greenie, yes l like Greenie's. The Dynotech.de edt soon ready, waiting for a c built seat. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

Installed a nice seat.

It inserts into the removal tool to pierce the filter and help turn the oily filter. In theory it would work, but in my case after 2hrs of not getting the filter to move. I was advised by KaleV11 to look up with my I-phone camera to see if Shaun (prior owner) installed a metal band around the filter to make sure it wouldn't vibrate loose, an alas it had one. So next up was the whole pan dropped and cleaned up to remove the band and then the filter. I "bought" these tools with the bike in the couple of boxes of "stuff" Shaun dropped off with the bike. BTW he gave me a new oil filter and gasket too, what a deal right.

My gearbox had small leaks and weeps because it was overfilled. Checking the level with the bike on the sidestand is bad. It must be vertical for minutes before you check that the level is in the middle of the sight glass. I can tell you that I can't do this by holding the bike up then bending down to check the level. I had leaks until I got it onto a maintenance stand.

I complained to my dealer of this problem saying, ' let's replace an o-ring or the right injector.' He says 'no, the fix is to replace the whole rack ' (both throttle bobies, injectors, linkage and TPS). The 'rack' won't come out without lifting the frame off the drive line. Once refitted the right throttle body still dripped. I have to give MGNA and the dealer credit for trying to please me, replacing the whole rack. As it turns out the drip is aggravated by brief on-off modes. (Like cranking up to listen to the exhaust music or for some reason turning the key on without starting). In normal operation very little leak is apparent. It is important not to pressurize the FI system without a normal ride.