Leaderboard

Do NOT mess with what the Norwegians might think what tires could look like on a V11 . . .

Many thanks, of course we have a minimum wage, about £11 an hour going up to £12 in April. So of course as it is illegal to pay less the tipping thing is less important here. As an engineer I have never been tipped the same for my son who works for Hollywood Bowl. I assume our travel agent has paid all taxes on the flight and hotel, must check this. Life was so much easier when I was alive.

Dunlop TT's on, just steering bearings left to check. She will be a sweatheart. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

I have 2: One is a combined trickle charger and PSU 12 or 24V, 4 amps (for component testing and stuff) the other 12V 300 amps peak. If you overload they just cut out, no risk of BBQ. They are made by the French company GYS by the way.

Pop quiz! A) a meticulous would of course regularly check the wear on the tyres B ) correct the calibration of the speedo as needed. C) both A and B D) Or maybe just consider the idea E) and have a beer instead. F) both D and E

I'll be sure to let you know when I'm there, I have a friend in Cut and Shoot... lol and another in Tyler. Coffee's on me.

No they can't tolerate Gasoline contact. Not all rubber will maintain it's dimensions with regards to gasoline contact. A LOT swell which in any static sealing use is usually fine until you pull the component apart then you need to replace the rubber seals because you can't refit them due to dimensional change but in a dynamic situation such as the fuel tap spool the unit just seizes due to the seal swell. There are many material variations with Nitrile rubber and some is more Gasoline proof than others. Viton/FKM seals are the answer. Unfortunately you can't buy Viton seals of the exact dimension you need to replace the original seals so you need to modify the spool grooves. Phil

SFS has a "city tax" and maybe from memory a separate tax on "environmental" as well. Even Americans when you speak to them about all this rubbish just put their heads down and start mumbling incoherently into their laps when you ask about it all. Looking around restaurant you see people with calculators working out the bill. While you are in DC visit the Smithsonian air and space museum, It's FREE and very very very good. I've also been to the Dulles museum as well and it's well worth the visit. Washington DC and Alexandria and Arlington are all must see places when in the USA. Richmond VA is also worth seeing if you're into Civil War history which I am. Phil

I'm sure you kept this opinion to yourself ! Calculate the most you think it's gonna cost and double it .

Don't overdo it. It's a tractor motor, and it has to rattle a bit.

A little minor maintenance…decided to install new ignition coils…had them in the box for a year now…and since the tank was off…might as well. No difference vs the originals so that’s actually good! Ran a wire for my TomTom under the airbox to the battery since I had the tank off, I had an extra mount so now fully wired. Resealed the fuel sender unit at the tank with some Hylomar blue…no more leaks ( last leak was two years ago)…had some very minor drips over the last couple of weeks. Did a valve adjustment…a lot quieter…would like it quieter still but will run as is for now. Bike running beautifully…out for a ride with friend today…lent him my Griso.

Ah just found out there is 13.8% tax on rooms in Las Vega as well. Is that normally in the quote from my travel agent or do I pay that at the hotel? Seems I may also have to pay tax on the resort fee. Bit like buying a motorcycle then paying extra for engine and wheels. I must have lived a sheltered life.

Remember the Window Tax? We've brought it back. Here's how I do it as an American; If they have given me individual service, I tip. 20% is standard anymore, 10% and a confused look with an accent gets you a pass on that. If it's breakfast, say $30, I often overtip. If it's an expensive meal, I tip 20%- but beware, some restaurants add an automatic tip, especially for large groups. If they add an automatic tip, I never pay more than that which seems normally about 15%. If the service is bad (because they know it's automatic) I have the tip removed at the register. I quit playing the 'sympathy for tip wage workers' a long time ago. Too many of them make it a game of guilt rather than service. Anything you buy to take home, get it at the duty-free airport stores if you can.

You can start by checking the crank sensor. Use a Multimeter to check the ohm value- if the value is near zero or infinity, it's shot. I don't remember the correct value, somebody might add that here shortly. Once you determine it hasn't failed completely, you can test the AC output of the sensor also with the multimeter while cranking. You should see voltage clearly, again I don't remember the spec but 5-14v AC seems right for cranking speed. Of course, inspect the wiring all the way to the ECU to be sure it's not disconnected, damaged, or corroded. Edit; also and first, test your battery cranking voltage. If voltage falls below ~10Vdc during cranking the ECU self-protects and shuts down.

What a great story and amazing outcome. Good luck to you PA.

Will mean that the speedo over-estimates, so legal. But a meticulous owner would of course regularly check the wear on the tyres, and correct the calibration of the speedo as needed. Or maybe just consider the idea, and have a beer instead.

No, I'm just about cleared of the debris from rebuilding the engine in my truck- the lift is covered with tools, parts, and fasteners. May get it up Sunday, and fit the Roper Plate to be sure the new source is accurate. I'm sure they are but don't want to send a plate out that I haven't verified the fit. The transmission is still in Ohio, I'll probably see that in May. I haven't decided whether to strip it to the last bolt or not... have to get closer to decide. The paint needs love, and if the bodywork gets new makeup the whole thing probably should.

Sadly, I must report the demise of my fifteen year old PC545. This was the 3rd Hawker Odyssey in mySport and was moved to my CubCadet lawn tractor, swampee, eleven years ago in 2014 and lived the hard, neglected life of groundskeeping equipment. Odyssey #4 *only* lasted seven years and suffered from combined regulator + stator failures on mySport. So, my 3 year old (VERY healthy) #5 moves to swampee and mySport gets a fresh PC545 (current nomenclature: Odyssey ODS-AGM15L) to the tune of $147.99US. Ten bucks a year ain't to shabby for powersports/ lawn equipment batteries!

Excellent…well if we’re in town when you come thru, let me know and hopefully P6X and I can meet you nearby for a quick get together. If you need any help in the Houston area let us know!

I will never again buy anything from that company. Phil

Guzzisti, I desperately need your expertise for my 2002 V11 sport junkyard special. Bear in mind nothing on my bike is in it's original place, no wiring shematic has the same colors as mine (eventhough the wiring loom should be mostly original), and many shed mechanics before me screwed around with it. I've been reading up on the forum for some time, and tested a bunch of things (below) The issue: No priming / power to the fuel pump. Ignition coils are not getting juice either. Starter does it's job N light works Kickstand safety switch has been deleted but I tested it anyway. Fuelpump has been tested All relays have been replaced, just to be sure. Connections on the bottom have been checked. I measured power across all fuses and then replaced them anyway. Guzzidiag does not connect anymore ECU does have power (I measured the connector untill I found a live wire) So what does work? When I turn on ignition one relay clicks. The starter turns over fine, all lighting and dash lights are ok. She ran fine one week ago and hasn't moved since. Checked ground conections, don't know what else to do?! My greatest fear is the ECU might have failed completely, but I have no way to test it. It doesn't help that I can't identify what relay does what, because they are not in original order and wiring seems off compared to the schematics. Can a 'failed while parked' crank sensor cause a 'no fuelpump' issue? I'm out of ideas. Should have went for a carb conversion 8 years ago. Oh, how I hate working on EFI 😉 Thanks in advance guys!

I am English just booked two week holiday for the family in The United States. Fly London to Las Vegas, Las Vegas to Washington DC and then back to London. See Grand Canyon, Shenandoah National Park, Washington DC and Air Space Museum at Dulles. Family really exited, me still feeling queasy at the bill. Then I find out about Resort Charge. It is adding around 10% to an already dear trip. Travel agent had small print saying some hotels may charge pax. Had to google pax, took a while to sift out 'peace', 'passenger' but finally got there. We had already got our head around shops showing price without state tax and that we should tip for just about everything but that Resort Charge really got me. I have offloaded my annoyance onto the forum now, feel much better for that. Thank-you. Now my question, what other secret fees await me in the US?

Just a wee clarification, if I may . . . Early V11 Sports do not suffer classic Startus Interuptus like the LeMans and later variants that send the start current through through the ignition switch and back to the starter solenoid. The early V11 does benefit from a robust (true high current) micro relays, especially in Position #1/start. As do all V11 Spine Frames benefit from the high current relays, just that the later variants need the extra start relay as Kiwi_Roy has described. IIRC, someone was making a kit for this. Was it "Eastern Beaver?"

So what is this "pax"?

Did you check the 2 wires underneath the fuse box feeding your fuel pump relay. Cheers Tom.

maybe you should watch National Lampoon's Vacation before coming over here !

Hi, so you confirm the picker components PC782-1C-12S-R-X is the starter relay , because it's the one i think i seem to have problems with . Sometimes the guzzi will start directly and sometimes just a click and no starter action , so i switch the lights off and on try again and after 2 or 3 try outs it starts . Could it be this relay issue or do i need to look in another direction ? Thanks for your help

West Coast Batteries, Corona, California, USA https://odysseybatteries.com/ https://odysseybatteries.com/odyssey/pc545.html

I have 2 of those earthX batt’s now. well, actually one, as a failed relay on my 1200 Duc killed one of them, barely out of the starting gate, with me returning to my bike i had stored down south to find the voltage at around 1.4V. that story is told elsewhere, but a sure scientific sign that Murphy loves to have a laugh…. spend the big bucks, high-five for how great it seems to turn out, then an apparently known Duc (service bulletin, unbeknownst to me) issue kills it. But the 1st one is in the V11 and I am indeed quite fond of it, for its small size and lovely cranking power. I’ve now inherited a 2nd “no name” li-ion battery, and so far so good, which is newer territory for me. because of the aforementioned concerns with li-ions i’d been sticking with highly rated ones when i’m buying new, but i’ve got 2 cheap/no-name brand li-ions now in different bikes i purchased used, and they’ve been great. in fact, a 3rd one, actually a big-name unit (brand escapes at the moment…) is from 2018, and its still going strong (in KTM 990, but removed it when i sold the bike), so thats a single data point for longevity. Doc, where’d you find a PC545 for $148?

As a vintage vehicle enthousiast, it was my first thought. So any testing is done without battery. I connect a PSU directly to the terminals when troubleshooting. Stable, regulated. I actually love this Forum, but I never really needed it for a specific question😉

AFAIK, OMRON discontinued production of the G8HE micro relay we used. Sure, you may find them used or NOS. Currently, the Picker Components PC782-1C-12S-R-X is the best we have found with the highest NC contact rating for the #1/start position ( @igor, the first/front relay is the only position requiring the 5-pin/ Form 1C, yet best practice is to use the same 5-pin/ Form 1C in all positions so they can be swapped around as @gstallons noted). This CIT is a close second and certainly up to our needs: A11CSQ12VDC1.5R

Er, well, doesn't seem likely. My experience so far is with my '97 Sport 1100 which has a different ECU. I have a lot of simple homemade analog tools for simple checks- for instance, a taillamp bulb with wires soldered to the base which I can attach to the pump terminals to see visually whether it's receiving power or not- sometimes the noise and activity of solo testing makes it hard to hear. I would think it's standard procedure for any EFI system to give a short prime at key or power-on. That your guzzidiag (I've not used it yet) won't connect doesn't sound promising either, but if battery voltage is low that could be the explanation also. Give standing and cranking battery voltages for comparison?

🦗🦗🦗

I'm for "F".

I'm a bit surprised that those tyres don't have nails sticking out of them. Snow like that, and all....

I had to go and look for those to curb my surprise. Apparently modern tyres indeed. My first thought was these, which I ran on my z900 in the '80s because there was practically no alternative for the 19" front wheel. Dunlop TT 100 Would look kind of on strange on a V11, I think.

I was talking with other SpineRaiders about this Sport today over Mex&cerveza. We cannot wait to see this RedFrame at the SSR! There shall be a toast! Maybe a coupl-o'-three . . .

Thanks for the Italian lesson but these were off a 2003 Mille. Model and name change happened the next year. Might be the same fork, or not.

Happy I grew up with with not much concern about speed limits, FOR sure. Ah well, Good Friday guys. Cheers Tom.

Why would you want to go through all that? Why calibrate a speedo? All three of my cars the speedos over read different amounts. The Kia 5kph@100, the Mazda 2kph@100 and the Supra 2kph@100. All calibrated off the GPS. I adjust the cruise control speed accordingly and I know at lesser speeds the difference is even smaller. Seems to me when you fit significantly different wheel sizes you just do a 60 mph drive and check it against the GPS and remember the offset and you're good. Even with my addled brain I can remember the speedo inaccuracies in three different cars. Add to that a motorcycle with a Veglia speedo! Phil

Mine just came in the mail. 98% probability I'll be on my '04 BMW GSA. 1% probability each of being on the '05 BMW RT or the '00 MG V11. Depending on timing and availability, maybe 2 if my kid rides along. The plan is to come from East to West, and spend a week or two doing nothing but hitting the stops. Probably going to be more in the hot part of the year, June-ish. The GSA lives in El Paso and it's currently in Michigan. I have a lot of logistics to sort out lol

Guzzisti provided the tees. Beth made the quilt. Eric delivered it. Chet loved it. blob:https://www.v11lemans.com/463c4903-6991-4a2d-91e2-c832cbb677be Bill

A word to the wise: I don't like that dealer. Not that I have directly had a bad experience; I had already decided to avoid him before it could come to that. In the course of looking for parts, I have looked at quite a number of his adverts. The general impression is that he is anything other than cheap, and that he doesn't particularly seem to care how bad the condition of the parts is. He still puts a premium price on them, and often describes something as "good condition" when it is obvious from the photos that the part is, in fact, in a very shabby state. So if anyone is thinking of buying there, have a really close look at the photos first. Twice.

It was a good day for it.