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And you waited all that time to tell me? Each time I change the gearbox oil, my clutch slips... now I understand why!!!

There is a difference between you personally owning something and moving from one country to another and you in one country selling something to someone who lives in another country. They don't already own what you are selling, it is being imported for the purpose of being sold. That being said, I don't agree with tariffs. They are a way of taxing that is tilted to penalize the regular guy.

That looks a lot like the Magni Sfida, which I do like. I've never ridden one, but was smitten when I saw one as a teen.

At this point, it seems a lot cheaper to travel to Europe to purchase your gear, VAT free, and import duty free. Some of the bakery stuff that is made in France cost 50 USD here, and 13 EUR there; taking into account that 50 USD here is without VAT and 13 EUR includes VAT in Eur... These are cast for a pastry named Canelé. I need at least 50 of them....

Whatever you think doesn't matter . The Tariffmeister is in charge of that whim !

BTW , do not put the gear oil in where the rubber plug id=s in the side of the transmission. You will fill up yhe clutch housing and cause problems !

You can test that thought w/the bike sitting still. Pump the rear brake w/your foot three Xs and see if it gets better every stroke. If it does , let it sit for 60 seconds . If it is the same , you MIGHT have a warped rotor . Get the rear wheel off the ground and rotate the wheel . If the rotor is warped you will see the lateral movement and see the warp in the rotor. Also , try moving the wheel to see if there is lateral movement there . There should be NONE .

Those are likely to be explained here somewhere, but the workshop manual does a good job too. here: https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf Section D, starting on page 57, covers regular maintence. Best to read all of that section, actually. Engine oil page 60 ff., filter follows that. Gearbox oil page 74 ff. PS: the linked document is a compilation. The "section D" I referred to is in the first section, for the earlier models. However, the information doesn't turn up again in the later sections of the document, i.e. in the section for the later models, so I assume that the information for the first model continues to apply for all following models.

The hidden part is the small actuator for the safety switch. When you remove the lever, be prepared to catch the little puck that is in a hole in the housing between the lever and the switch. Sometimes that is a little ball bearing whose chief purpose is to spit itself into a parallel universe if you're not ready to nab it. Clean that hole well and grease the pivot pin. Once the stamped nut is on, consider a zip-tie through the pivot pin in case the nut works itself loose and the pin pops out. This allows the lever to fall out and ruins our day. It sounds like time to flush your rear brake fluid and clean/service the rear caliper. Inspect for excessive pad wear that would contribute to increased pedal travel. Another source of increased pedal travel is a bad wheel bearing. Absolutely worth checking your rear wheel bearings.

As long as the lever has the ball on the end , you will be in good shape . You need to explain "stiffen up" the brake pedal ? Is it spongey or what ?

Rotating the steering to get the starter to work is characteristic of faulty bullet connectors for the clutch switch:

there are manuals available for download: If you have the time, replacing the spring is good preventative maintenance. But you could probably get away without doing until until next winter.

https://www.ohlins.com/en-us/motorcycle/custom-heritage/front-fork-universal-50-54-800-black?brand=universal&model=universal

Looks scary, POLICEIISSH. Cheers Tom.

Sorry, just one more for good measure 😅. In the right hands, they do make beautiful cafe racers.

I fancy only the faux MGS-01 bodywork kit for the spines, as no other than Yank Kevin Cameron called the bike "impossibly beautiful."

"Just one word " . . .

Let me refresh this, now that warm weather is upon us.

Sidecars, good lord sidecars. All the worst aspects of a car and a motorcycle rolled into one and then made even worse. A case of less than the sum of it's parts. The sidecar is what the poor working class in the early 20th century bought to attach to their motorcycle to transport the family because they couldn't afford a car. They were a poor persons transport band aid and nobody worried about the obvious dynamic shortcomings which not only make them suspect to operate but also destroy the motorcycle itself mechanically. A motorcycle chassis isn't designed to cope with side thrust loads so the mechanicals take a beating and you end up with chassis cracking and high wear on everything including the driveline lugging around the extra weight. The advent of the Austin 7 or Baby Austin, in the early 1920's, an affordable car that the working class could afford killed off the sidecar manufacturers almost entirely and with good reason. Phil