Leaderboard

well hold now.... its takes all kinds, and if we were all the same it would be rather boring. and look what entertainmnet came from it all in this thread. and pretty funny, moto guzzi owners calling someone else diseased. thats a gem!

I don't know why anyone would put that much effort in and not go all the way with it. It needs much longer forks, spoke wheels with no unsightly brake rotors, and elongated shark-fin-tipped dual exhaust (preferably straight pipes without any baffles). I would also hose-clamp a couple highway pegs onto the headers.

I completely agree. You are transforming an axial force from the driving pinion to rotate the ring gear. It is clear that without any lubricant, you are wearing down the teeth. More than the bearings, this is likely the weak point in the movement transmission.

I did not match flow and pressure, since MG Cycle sells the Osias, i ass-u-me 'd the thing pushes gas at some rate comparable to the factory pump... Such thinking might not be terribly logical and unecessarily unwise, but burning up what remaining time i have left orbiting the sun, less now than before i decided to write this entertaining drivel, and unlike the folly of my youth, i don't let stuff like that take up any more space in my brain than i decide i want to give it. The LeMans starts quick, idles evenly and accelerates strong through the all gears from idle to 115, so the pump must give the LeMans what it needs. I just don't like the whine. But, hell, what Guzzi doesn't have a distant cousin who isn't a tractor... And when i want to ride something more like a horse drawn plow, i hop on my '27 Harley i built from parts (: Where can i source a Bosch fuel pump? Or, what's the part number? Thanks for suggesting the Bosch.

@p6x Dont know if it has been mentioned, but that plug might have fallen out two miles from home. I have a hard time believing you could stay upright on a greased tire for 200 miles, let alone have that rear drive keep spinning for that distance. Rear drive fluid has a distinctive odor...I think you could have caught a whiff of it sometime soon after the leak occurred. Maybe backtrack in the car for a short distance to get a visual of where the dump occurred? Might be a possibility, or maybe it's too late now. I hope another biker didn't go through your oil slick. Glad you made it home.

Your speedo works? Lucky

This happened to my V11 reardrive at an independent shop with many years of Guzzi experience and was their "tried and true" method to dismantle the Guzzi reardrive. While I did not witness the act, I got "The Call" that things had not gone well attempting to replace the seals and they were sending the unit "out" (that did not go well, either ) and would weld the crack. I asked if the crack was at 7:00 or 9:00 or what? They said, "Yes." Turns out, the flange split from the top at 11:00 (looking from the right side of the bike), down the back of the flange along the actual housing, to within an inch of the lower edge at 7:00; that close to breaking it off. I have taken V11 rear drives apart since, myself, without this drop-method. Maybe fine for the Quota drive with the narrow flange, but just a "heads-up" on that the larger "bell" flange of the V11 SpineFrames could be vulnerable.

I used a GoPro on ball that mounts in the hole freed up when I switched to bar-end mirrors. I just got the quad-lock system for phone and like it. Have not been recording any videos lately. But here is one I did a few years ago when I had a Greenie...

I emailed Mike Haven; no reply. This morning, I picked up the oil drain plug from them in Hempstead. I was surprised to get an invoice. Since there was one other customer, and I was on a clock, I did not say anything. I took the invoice. Thereafter, I sent a scan of the MPH invoice that clearly detailed they changed that oil. We shall see what happens.

Make absolutely sure the pump is not metal to metal ( pump to frame) causing the noise.

Did you explain to MPH the reason for the "need" for the drain plug ?

I think it is unanimous ,the owner had a brain tumor , drug issues or schizophrenic .

There is no way I am going to find that plug. The only clue I can offer, is that in Gladewater, when I noticed the leak, I cleaned the transmission, the rim, the tire. I waited a moment, and there were any further leakage. Which reinforced my thinking that it was maybe overpressure oil that leaked, and it stopped. It only stopped because there were no more oil! if you think about it, the rear drive contains 0.230 liter of oil... next to nothing.

Probably; but then you now have to add the unreliable shipping because they have removed the "de minimis" that exempted packages to go through customs below 800 USD. I would have gotten that plug one month from ordering it. But there is solace; MPH has the plug, so I am going to go get it today.

@guzzigary Thinking about it after the fact, in one of my previous posts, I think the drain plug dropped shortly before I stopped in Gladewater. I probably not have rode much with the oil wet tire. I cleaned it while in Gladewater, and I checked there wasn't any fresh oil after that. I regret to not have checked the oil drain plug was in place at that time. It simply never occurred to me that I could have lost it. This is a first. The only incident I had was at a dealership oil change for a car, they had not tightened the new oil filter, and I noticed the oil patch in my garage and rectified the situation.

I am (what a surprise ) behind in being ready to launch for the Mutton Run and MotOzarks next week. Needed to do the 18K service on my V85, but “Some People” — code for my sweet but focused spousal supervisor — had other priorities. As an example of her erroneous thinking, she believes it is more important to have the house look great for my German family visiting in mid-June. Lordy, wimmen. THIS is important … So, it seemed to me, given the small allowance of minutes I was granted, critical to find something motivational to keep me on mission. Did a quick search and thought this seemed right ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjkaWADdU9w Maybe young folks working on an overnighter these days find this helpful, but it almost put me to sleep. It sure did not keep me moving. Back to the digital drawing board. Now, THIS is more like it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njw-g09XPmM Went from this … (yes, a clean work area is key) ... … to this in record time (for me, at least) … If my Perfect Pillion & Polish Princess will grant me a few more minutes today, I can get that back on, and, after R&R'ing the fluids in the gearbox and final-drive, declare my Guardia ready for combat operations. The visiting Germans? I get back from mutton and catfish two weeks before they descend here. Lots of time. Besides, the night before, I’ll play this … https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zEy4GNMJq0 Bill =========== Edited to apologize as I wasn't smart enough to get the y/t links to appear. Have done that before, but, sigh, aging and forgot. [edit: docc inserted the linked displays. Easy: copy and paste the YouTube URL directly into your post without using the linking tool "[--]".

And a sissy bar, at least 3 feet long.

As long as Mr. Darwin is allowed to have a say in it, that's ok.

I see at least one "leftover" relay . . . Then, I got a cramp in my leg looking at the 14" saddle height above the footpeg . . .

Bevel gears do not take kindly to being driven without oil. If you want an example from my own experience once, back in the day, I decided I wanted to try and raise the final drive gearing a bit on one of my older Tonti’s. I also wanted to fit a ‘Deep Sump’ bevelbox as used on certain Eldorados and 850T’s. To this end I sourced a bos case and purchased at great expense a set of 8/35 bevel gears. I built the gears into the case and everything was looking rosy. BUT at that time I didn’t know that certain early versions of that bevelbox casting had the oil level plug placed far too low in the casing! Sure in hindsight it is obvious that the bottom of the crownwheel would barely be touching the oil and since it is the crownwheel itself that acts as a centrifugal pump to throw the oil around to lubricate anything it meant that the box was going to run damn near dry! Anyway, I bolted it up to the bike and took it out for a short test ride, only about 10-15km at most. It felt fine, no funny noises or anything, but when I returned to the shop the box was far too hot to touch! I nearly shat meself! When it had cooled I removed it and stripped it and the gears were shot completely to pieces. To say I was upset is an understatement as in those pre-internet days sourcing them had been very difficult and very expensive! It was only after long research I found out about the level plug location problem and of course once one knew about it it was obvious! A very hard and expensive lesson was learnt! As for the idea of simply replacing the plug and refilling it? After 200 miles running dry this will not only be pointless it will be very dangerous. The damage to the teeth, especially the pinion teeth, will be extensive. The chance of it spitting one off and locking up the box and rear wheel are high. I would very, very strongly warn against this course of action! As for the missing plug? I know Mike well and both he and Davey are super conscientious and diligent and I’m sure they would be mortified that this has happened. Everyone makes mistakes occasionally. I’m sure if you approach it sensibly a satisfactory solution can be found.

How about contacting Hamlin or Etheridge to see what they have kicking around?

If you pour something through to rinse the box through the drain hole, does any metal swarf come out that would indicate damage?

That's the best plan. My sister figured out the physics of it some years ago: When you look for something, the act of searching builds up an energy state that, if the search goes on for more than a couple of minutes, causes the sought after object to pop across into another dimension. Only when you stop looking does the energy state dissipate, allowing the object to fall back into our dimension and be found.

Upate to revitalizing this LeMans. I have the rear end back together. i was able to remove the retainers for the 2-row swing arm bearing, wash them out with brake cleaner, and then blow them clean with 120 psi, grease the balls bottom and top, reinstall retainers, reinstall seals. i am now at the place where the wheel alignment needs to be adjusted and set. Your shared expertise to set the alignment will be appreciated. Prior to dismantle, threads of RH pin protruded 7 tread; right 6 threads. Threading in the pins, turning RH pin in to expose 7 threads, the LH pin threaed in to 4 thrreads exposed, not the 6 treads exposed. Attached are pics of tihis stage completed.

The clamp set-up Phil has looks pretty good . i use a conventional high pressure fuel injection hose clamp that covers the entire circumference of the hose and doesn't let the worm gear "threads" dig into the hose . Also buy a good (long) length of fuel injection hose. It will give pressure rating on the length of hose. Gates is the best , NAPA , then you need to be careful. Anyone else on brand recommendation ? This fuel line on the bike is approximately 20-25 yrs old . Remember this having the tank off. Also , when you have anything off under the tank , make sure nothing is going to touch , rub or damage ANYTHING else when you are going back together. Also , I use a small amount of Sil-Glide when assembling hoses to make them easy to go together and come apart. The two vents under the tank use a tee to make one hose to vent down & out of the way .

On the subject of hose clamps these are the best. Re useable and the special tool isn't required. Neat, compact, simple and reliable. I hate screw clamps on small hoses. They look like shite. 5/16 EFI hose needs the "purple banded" Norma Cobra clamps. You can buy them at many places or on line. https://www.irrigationworks.com.au/hose-clamps

yessir. And good clarification!… thanks, as it’s both back of relay attach and fuse block thats of interest, but only the fuse block has that type of access.

Prying up the fuse block will let you inspect these hidden spade connectors to Fuse #1 and #2. Make certain they are clean and tight. The Caig Deoxit® @Pressureangle referenced is highly desirable for every connection you open and reseat.