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https://youtu.be/-HhQ5vvjK5o?si=JGQxOqioYJ5Ty7QU

So, I've finally patched the bike up, and it's once again looking great! I still need to replace the windscreen, but it didn't want to fit properly anyways so I had to drill new holes just to get it on there. The frame of the fairing is a little bit asymmetrical and that's probably the cause of these fitment issues.

Brother , I hear you on the "head above water" part. This version of a M/G needs appreciation more than adoration. It came out w/a lot of electrical problems that showed up in old age. The fuel system was tuned for an area that I am not sure exists . We all have found out the personality issues w/these bikes . If you need a bike to work on , you will enjoy this forum. Internet communication can be difficult to interpret. A terse response can sound like a smartass answer.. The fuel system on these bikes require perfect tuning , just like EFI systems do on your car/truck. They are all tuned to borderline lean so if it goes any leaner it gets hairy. Hang w/us and hang out . Any time you need any or a lot of info , PM and I will give you my cell # .

I wouldn’t trust my life to it.

Both Davey and Mike said if it was theirs, they would not replace it. But yes, how did it look before? The one that I purchased will help for the evaluation.

Has anyone replaced the bluetooth dongle that communicates between the MyECU and the cell/tablet application? My dongle is over 10 yrs old, and not compatible with the latest version of the Optimizer application. I bought a new dongle, and Cliff's been remotely helping me load software onto the dongle to get it running. I've hit some snags, and I hate to rely so heavily on Cliff's time. I'm hoping someone here has upgraded their dongle before, and has some tips. Joe '09 V7 Classic

I appreciate the help and info. I have to put it to the side for a week as its time to head to work and other things but thanks for reaching out and I will take you up on that help for sure. Thanks

No need to heat, it's just plastic. It will curve just fine.

Or as mentioned Many times, a small unseen build with a direct regulator. 30amp fuse on holiday. Worth it if it’s a keeper. Cheers Tom.

Nope, neither. I have a sterile 1970 Honda 750 basket case chopper that I want to return to stock for the most part, a 1987 MG SP2 with 157,000 miles on it, and 1999 Suzuki Bandit 1200 with 38000 miles on it that just works and is my shop and chore bike and a 1981 Yamaha SR500 thats for sale and a 1973 MG V7 sport. I'm currently looking at a Honda Hawk GT650 as I want a lighter bike that has a electric start because after getting hit at 45 mph on my 2002 Lemans by a 84 year old man in a SUV... I limp and have a bit of trouble with my hip and kickstarting.... I'm busy trying to keep my head above water and its a chore.. gladly accepted chore for sure but never the less a chore for each bike done lovingly. Its what I like to do and when posting on here I'm really just hoping for a magic answer that solves the issue but when you get hit with tons of places to look it can be just as over whelming as the issue itself . My original post on here was about fuel injectors and having gone down that rabbit hole with thoughts and other places to look I realize that there is a ton to know. I had a 2008 MG 1200 sport that had the magic box from Guzzitech and it made the bike run rich as hell but it work well for the most part. The guy that runs that is pretty hard to talk with and so your on you own when figuring things out. I got that bike running well after doing all the things suggested which is what I will have to do with this one. Its hard to be a hobby mechanic and keep up on all the nuances of each bike, but life is short and I will ride as many as I can before I go... Sorted out a Ducati Monster S2r 1000 and rode it for a bit and then sold it to buy this bike which sat for most of its life... So I'm stoked that it is running and fine tuning will take a bit, but it sure felt good to ride it. So I choose neither pill and as far as a meaningless life goes.. 2 wheels are 2 wheels and when your riding it feels great no matter what you ride... I have a vintage bike group and I have had probably 100 bikes in the last 10 years from Hondas to Ducati's to moto guzzis and two stokes and stopped short of buying Nortons and Velocette as it was above my wheelhouse in cost and mechanicing ... Its all for fun and if life is meaningless on a bike your doing it wrong... PS, the bike I was talking about was done by Mike Velasco who was a factory AMA race mechanic for 35 years and it was a Kawasaki ZX12r and it was anything but meaningless when hitting triple digits. It had 185 hp and 105 foot pounds of torque... it was scary fast...but damn it was fun for the 2 years I had it... Cheers my friend

Keep an (infrared) eye on that nefarious fuse. And also the relays, especially #5 (the furthest back). Using the "Best Relay" is well indicated for reliability.

Managed to source an original example. It's a snug fit but keeps things toasty.

Here's my bevelled box; you can understand why I am not so eager to replace with a rough looking one. I am going to fix this one. Replacing the gear ring and pinion set. I tried again to remove the pinion carrier without success. This afternoon, I am taking it o MPH.

Thanks... They all look aesthetically beat up, and more expensive, by far, than the one I found on eBay for $200. Quick calculation, the best looking one is 425 EUR minus VAT 21%, you add the cost of shipping, the import tax, now than the below $800 exemption has been revoked. Tomorrow, I will take the drive out, try one more time to remove the pinion carrier, and head out to MPH; Mike never responded to my email about the loss of my drain plug. MPH have a lot of Guzzi spares from their dealership days.

Works for me: https://en.tlm.nl/search-results-page/?q=Used cardan

I think I suggested Guzzi Classics in Long Beach before, try him. He’s not good on emails but will respond to a phone call. Then there’s Harper’s. They too respond better to a call. Here are a few. Bevelboxes.

May be worth inquiring on the Quota Facebook page or on Wildguzzi or MGNOC if anyone has a spare one lying around. Some quota owners have multiple quotas, it wouldn't surprise me if they have stockpiled some parts as well.

Looking in the shed for something else entirely I found all my bevelbox shims today! I thought I’d given them away. If you understand how to set up bevel gears it isn’t terribly difficult, although it can be time consuming. It isn’t something most novices would undertake, at least without close supervision by someone experienced because the results of getting it wrong tend to be very expensive.

It's the plan!

Point taken.

Look, as I keep saying. If you want confirmation? Just pull the bevelbox and pull out the pinion carrier and pinion. You wouldn’t hesitate to pull the back wheel if you had a flat tire would you? Well it’s the same deal and then four more nuts that hold the bevelbox on. Once it’s on the bench all that is required to pull out the pinion carrier is to separate the flange from the casing. Sometimes it will simply pull out with a tug on the pinion. Sometimes you need to give the flange a couple of biffs with a hammer and drift to get it to separate a bit and then you can pry it forward until it comes loose and you can pull it out. Once it’s out the head of the pinion is staring you in the face. All these bevelboxes are essentially the same. All the way through from the T3 to the last of the California 1100’s. Yes there are differences in the lengths of the spacers in the box and these are easily swapped, then there was a change in about 2002 to the depth of the spline spigot in the crownwheel carrier, your Quota will need one of the earlier type. Apart from that the earlier Tonti boxes had 7/33 gear sets rather than the 8/33 of the Quota and of course the case has a shock mount on it whereas yours has a rubber bung filling the hole. Older Cali bevelboxes must be ten a penny in the US. Mark at Guzzi Classics probably has a dozen of them! If this had happened to me I’d just be buying a Cali box, checking it was sound and sticking it on. There is no need for it to be a Quota bevelbox. I can’t stress strongly enough. If you did ride 200 miles without oil there will be serious damage and you are taking a great risk riding it further. It will not of escaped unscathed.

The pinion teeth work 4.125 times harder than the crownwheel teeth. ifi we’re you I’d pull the bevelbox and extract the pinion carrier, it’s a sliding fit in the casting and inspect the teeth. If you did 200 miles with a dry bevelbox I really don’t see how it can of survived. It isn’t so much the ‘Lubrication’ as the cooling that the oil does that protects the teeth. 200 miles, even at moderate speed/loading will of caused massive heat damage to both gears and bearings.

This is likely the parts that have worn out: you need to replace them as a set too. Besides, I do not have a vice nor a bench. Removing the drive pinion is going to be challenging, if I needed to.

There is no way I am going to find that plug. The only clue I can offer, is that in Gladewater, when I noticed the leak, I cleaned the transmission, the rim, the tire. I waited a moment, and there were any further leakage. Which reinforced my thinking that it was maybe overpressure oil that leaked, and it stopped. It only stopped because there were no more oil! if you think about it, the rear drive contains 0.230 liter of oil... next to nothing.

As long as Mr. Darwin is allowed to have a say in it, that's ok.

Yea docc, you don't get damage like that with Petes method. Thats a shop press support "gone wrong" situation. As for the weld it up solution I'd pass on that as well due to distortion issues. Phil

This happened to my V11 reardrive at an independent shop with many years of Guzzi experience and was their "tried and true" method to dismantle the Guzzi reardrive. While I did not witness the act, I got "The Call" that things had not gone well attempting to replace the seals and they were sending the unit "out" (that did not go well, either ) and would weld the crack. I asked if the crack was at 7:00 or 9:00 or what? They said, "Yes." Turns out, the flange split from the top at 11:00 (looking from the right side of the bike), down the back of the flange along the actual housing, to within an inch of the lower edge at 7:00; that close to breaking it off. I have taken V11 rear drives apart since, myself, without this drop-method. Maybe fine for the Quota drive with the narrow flange, but just a "heads-up" on that the larger "bell" flange of the V11 SpineFrames could be vulnerable.

Bevel gears do not take kindly to being driven without oil. If you want an example from my own experience once, back in the day, I decided I wanted to try and raise the final drive gearing a bit on one of my older Tonti’s. I also wanted to fit a ‘Deep Sump’ bevelbox as used on certain Eldorados and 850T’s. To this end I sourced a bos case and purchased at great expense a set of 8/35 bevel gears. I built the gears into the case and everything was looking rosy. BUT at that time I didn’t know that certain early versions of that bevelbox casting had the oil level plug placed far too low in the casing! Sure in hindsight it is obvious that the bottom of the crownwheel would barely be touching the oil and since it is the crownwheel itself that acts as a centrifugal pump to throw the oil around to lubricate anything it meant that the box was going to run damn near dry! Anyway, I bolted it up to the bike and took it out for a short test ride, only about 10-15km at most. It felt fine, no funny noises or anything, but when I returned to the shop the box was far too hot to touch! I nearly shat meself! When it had cooled I removed it and stripped it and the gears were shot completely to pieces. To say I was upset is an understatement as in those pre-internet days sourcing them had been very difficult and very expensive! It was only after long research I found out about the level plug location problem and of course once one knew about it it was obvious! A very hard and expensive lesson was learnt! As for the idea of simply replacing the plug and refilling it? After 200 miles running dry this will not only be pointless it will be very dangerous. The damage to the teeth, especially the pinion teeth, will be extensive. The chance of it spitting one off and locking up the box and rear wheel are high. I would very, very strongly warn against this course of action! As for the missing plug? I know Mike well and both he and Davey are super conscientious and diligent and I’m sure they would be mortified that this has happened. Everyone makes mistakes occasionally. I’m sure if you approach it sensibly a satisfactory solution can be found.

As far as I can tell, it is, but that doesn't mean you need to go for test rides each time you change the shims. The process is, as far as I can tell, bolt it up with engineer's blue on one side, turn it a couple of times, and take it apart to see where the contact surface is. I'm fairly sure you know what engineer's blue is. For those that don't, this. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineer's_blue I learned what it is from the novel "The Sand Pebbles" from Richard McKenna, which was proscribed literature in my English classes at school at some point. Just shows to go you what school is good for.

Buddy , you need to go over this bike w/a fine tooth comb and tighten EVERYTHING and top off all fluids.

You could do either one, or just fill it back up and see if it developes any nasty noises. I dare say that if there is any serious damage in there, it will become acoustically obvious pretty quickly. If it's broken, it's already broken, and if it's not, continuing to ride it with fresh oil will not do any damage.

No luck removing that pinion assembly from the carter. The drain plug is again full of burrs, which makes me think there is much more than what the magnet can capture. I have reinstalled the bevelled box on the bike, the rear wheel, so I can move the bike out of the way. My next move will be to bring that bevelled box to a workshop so they can remove the pinion assy. I removed all the screws of the flange, all were stopped with loctite, it was fun. I don't have a power driver, I only use hand tools... The flange did not budge either.