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Just a thread starter. This '57 is gone now, sat in a garage in Ohio for 30 years until the lady made us take it away to get the other 2 cars, a '57 Chevy tilt-front gasser and a '70 Plymouth 'Cuda 440 dual-fendertag in Purple. Took about 2 hours to get it running; put brakes on it and sold as is as a daily driver to a very happy fella.

It's a long tale, fraught with danger, despair, and rebirth. I'll PM you. Or maybe start a thread in the 'junk folder' lol

Here is a link to the thread where we discussed this in some depth almost 10 years ago. Deep in there, you will find a photo where I put three clutch options side-by-side (OEM dual, OEM single, and new RAM single 6-speed). The only option I did not have was a new RAM single 5-speed kit.

For those wondering about the three separate clutch bosses I dug out my pice comparing the three. From left to right below we have the early six speed single plate boss. The second generation six speed boss used with the twin plater in the CARC series bikes and finally the standard, deep spline, five speed hub. As you can see as well as the difference in spline depth there are also differences in the overall boss length that would need to be accommodated when grinding one of the others to suit the six speed single plater.

Love the press, ingenious. I've got a kit in the workshop I'll take a look but I think the update is new cams on the shock absorber. Phil Edit. Kit contents.

I lust this truck

Meh...I'll replace at least the center disc and frictions. I'll send the pressure plate up to the boys in Ohio to be ground flat, looks to be less than .010" dish but new discs don't like point loading. I don't like the heat signatures on the surfaces, anyway. Certainly I'll get into the leak points, wringing my hands over the rear main seal. Probably should just suck it up and make it new, though there's no sign of leaks anywhere... from the last time in turned over, maybe 8 years ago lol

Precisely.

Makes buying a local V11 Sport with no gearbox seem like a cakewalk!

Your clutch parts look quite good from the images. While you're in that space, good to take care of the seven (or are there eight?) potential leak points . . .

I have not done a 5 speed kit to fit the 6 speed. But I recall the guys at MG Cycle saying it would work, because they thought the only difference was the transmission input spline when they compared the 5 and 6 speed kits. This is worth verifying. That's why I asked the question. My current understanding is that the 5 speed Ram clutch kit should work as a replacement for the original alloy flywheel clutch in the Tenni if you use the original clutch hub, and the clutch pushrod 'cup' from the original clutch (or 'turn down' the end of the original clutch pushrod, as suggested by Lucky Phil). If he was writing about fitting a 5 speed Ram kit to a V11, Baldini seemed to confirm that the orginal clutch pushrod 'cup' is interchangeable with the one supplied with a new Ram 5 speed clutch kit. I think some of the confusion is because posters have said that the Ram replacement is fine without specifying whether it was the 6 speed, now unavailable kit, or the 5 speed kit that they were using. Pete should be able to confirm (or contradict) my conclusions with the current job his mate is doing.

And Rosso Mandello...

Yes Docc, my understanding is the same as yours. That's why I was surprised to find my Nero had been fitted with a single plate clutch. I really need to look in there to see if it was a new RAM unit or perhaps a take-off from one of the three models that had it from factory.

Perfect. Since Dave Blue did the recall, I have to assume that the compensator has been changed as it's part of the kit. Next up; bearing race off and wait for bearing. $9 from Harpers, but a pre-order. $46 including shipping from Quality Bearings Online to have it Wednesday. Gotta get the injectors out to send away Monday.

Transmission recall notice: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=9199

You wouldn't have needed the pushrod to got from a twin plate to a RAM single plater in the 6 speed kit Tim. I replaced the twin plate OEM clutch with a RAM 6 speed single plater and the original pushrod fitted just fine. It looks like RAM 6 speed kit to replace original 6 speed twin plater requires nothing but the basic kit and use the new gearbox drive at your discretion. A 5 speed kit for a six speed single plate throw away the gearbox drive spline ( although I suspect you can surface grind it to fit the 6 speed transmission if you really need to) and either swap out the original pressure plate pushrod button OR machine the dia of the clutch end of the 6 speed pushrod to fit the new RAM clutch. A 5 speed RAM kit to fit a 6 speed twin plate clutch is definitively??????? When someone can fill in the last part of the puzzle or indicate where I'm wrong in the first parts then we can make a difinitive post on it and save it in the "how to" section docc? Phil

That started as a '57 GMC 6500, Texaco fuel tanker. Someone in California thought it would be a nice pickup, shortened the frame, found a bed (how rare is a age-appropriate long bed stepside?) installed a 5.9 Cummins, '90 vintage. Gear Vendors overdrive, late model heavy duty 4x4 running gear- heavy like 550 stuff, haven't researched but D60 front axle so probably GM. Kid saw it on eBay and got a boner for it. He bought an Airstream he's gonna haul out to Utah for a summer...one of these summers lol

Aaand since this is currently taking up space in my yard while my son figures out where to keep it, -

So, now I got a wrecked '94, and engineless '95, and a broken '94 in San Antonio. What to do? I get a call from my maniacal friend in Maine, "Hey we're going to Alaska and you're coming with! Leaving July 4th!" uh... BMW GS is in El Paso, me, dog, and busted truck are in Kerrville, TX. Shop owner can't work on it because NAPA doesn't sell a crank and he is contractually prohibited...*@*!. But he says, "My Father-in-law and Nephew ride to Alaska every summer. Don't miss the trip, the truck is safe here as long as it needs". Shoutout to Kerrville Auto Repair. So me and dog rent car back to El Paso, fire up to meet in Yellowstone. They get hit with 4 days of rain, so I ride East to meet in the Black Hills. Back to Yellowstone, Glacier, and North! to Alas... alas. Weather turned very sour and time was short so back to Maine. I pulled off at Michigan to visit parents and back to figure out what to do when...what's that next to the garage but the '04 GMC Yukon XL 2500 I bought for my Mom a decade earlier. She quit driving a couple years after, it got used by family until..different sad story about poor economic choices and new vehicles...sad thing sat with 2 inches of water in the floorboard because they didn't tighten the battery and the sunroof forgot where it was and wouldn't close. I charged the battery and drove it home with nothing more than cleaning the algae off, gas and air to the tires. 8.1 liter tow pig with minimal rust and 80,000 miles. Out with the trailer to Kerrville, back home with cranky. Frame is bent on the red one, still moves but nobody will fix it. Found a good used rolling frame in Michigan, that'll come home eventually as the last priority. Then gotta cull the herd.

In the sad times I sat staring at the empty engine bay of the '95 diesel, needed something to drive so found this purdy nice '94 2500. 6.5 turbodiesel, 3.74:1 gears, 7200# GVW. Drove it near 20,000 miles fairly happily. Had some weird drivability issues, finally failed in El Paso- took the best part of 2 weeks to find a pin pushed back in a harness connector, buried on the firewall that went from a marginal/intermittent ground to no circuit. Fixed it and Yeehaw! Man ran so good, so smooth. I was getting 17.4mpg @ 72mph when the crankshaft broke near San Antonio. I checked the harmonic balancer before the trip, and have a Fluidamper under the bench...got a little lazy and took that last trip. Turns out whomever fooled with it in the past didn't get the balancer tight and the bolt backed out- the 6.5 serpentine pulley covers the bolt so you can't see it. Famous for breaking cranks with bad balancers. Current Status; busted crank, middle of priority pile. Had a heck of a time finding the same bumper as on the wrecked one, but found it used/new in CA. Shipping included was still only 2/3 new price. No longer manufactured.

...so I bought this one, a '95 heavy 2500 with no motor. I was just going to stuff the 400 in it, but discovered there's far too much work to convert from the missing diesel. So I bought the engine that came out of it from the guy I bought the truck from, rebuilt the engine and now it's the family workhorse. 8600# GVW, 4.10:1 gears, Full float rear axle. Bought new by the Florida Forest Service, so got minimal options (basically just A/C) and well looked after, other than the also factory-installed blown head gasket in the 6.5 diesel. Current daily driver alongside the... oh wait, downthread

Loads of chatter in various threads here, but no proven formula afaik. If i recall, it's down to the actuator rod length/dia and maybe the cup hole diameter, depending on the rod you use (and maybe modify). It'll be great to have a definitive example of parts and measurements for the RAM 5sp used in a 6spd.

It's for removing the pressed-on bearing race from the end of the shaft. I could have made do with even the butane torch, but this heats consistently and controllably. I'll check with the temp gun until it's at temp and knock it off if it doesn't fall. But I do have a driveway full of '90s pickup trucks that need suspension work too.

I like the oil warning lamp to be as high as possible. The lights on the early V11Sports are not bright at all, so in case of a oil warning, you could easily miss it. These lights are only on for a short while so I do not fear the overheating of the fileament. (Except for high beam) Edit: So 2,2 watts would not be a problem. By the way, you can order those light per 10 for a much better price.

No, it's not the bleeder. If the slave is off the bike and you activate the clutch, it sweats or weeps a little around the plunger. Very slight, but clearly the o ring(s) are starting to go. There is a little corrosion on the clutch control cylinder and the face of the slave plunger, but very slight, more like discoloration than corrosion. You have to consider, all of these o rings are now pushing 25 years old.

I just did a nice 320km day trip in Friesland!

I know turning 137,000 miles doesn't seem like much to celebrate. But I'm celebrating, anyway. ( I intended this to be my 20,000th post, but I used that to reference fixing a broken link that @mikev had pointed out. As it should be, I reckon! )

IMOC ride last Saturday. The best bike to stand behind was chosen!

Just for fun, besides the misspelling (and I don't mean PORBETTI for BORLETTI ). Poor Betty . . .

Lots of maintenance over the winter (wheels off list, tank off list, swingarm bearing re-grease, new breather hose, fork oil, brake fluid, electrics cleanup etc.) The only drama was losing the BB that actuates the front brake switch and both U-joints loose, all sorted and ready for test ride when the old Odyssey battery gave up the ghost. Fortunately the nearby NAPA had a new PC545 on the shelf for $147. Ready to ride just in time for the recent nice weather, 200 mi loop to the coast without a hicccup. Thanks to all the info from the fine folks on this forum!

Yeah , these bikes are HEAVY compared to other crotch rockets they are compared to and categorized with. 12k RPM , wheelies , stoppies and burnouts are off the list of things to do. A John Deere c/shaft & flywheel is not the hot setup for this bike. The trouble is they are dressed up to look like a crotch rocket, The age of the average rider cannot reproduce the stunts Johnny Knoxville and his bunch do/did in his shows either . Don't even think you can.

I've officially ridden my first 1000 kilometers on the Lemans now!

For me, I find the cast Frame Side Plates ("stilettos") of our V11 Spine Frames, and the Centauro/1100 Sport-i, to be objects of absolute beauty. The original Daytona/ SPOrT 1100 side plates? "These things are industrial grade. Almost indestructable" -Starlord

It seems they are. Here, for the V11, page 12, part #3 https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/V11Sport-RossoMandello_1999-2001_062011_PL(GB).pdf and here for the 1100 Sport i.e., page 27, part #3 https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/1100SportIE_1996_1999_052010_PL(GB).pdf

A bit wet but still a good day out riding down the Putty Road NSW

Had my first ride of year on 2004 Ballabio after completing my 20 year (approx 25,000 km ) maintenance visit. With all the work done, new tires, all callipers & master cylinders rebuilt, new brake pads, all new engine sensors, complete “Decent Tune Up”, including plugs, air filter, etc., Roper Plate installed, drive shaft removed and greased, etc. it is just like it came out of the showroom in 2004. Good for another 20 yrs/ 25,000 km. Not sure I am! What a pleasure to ride.

Front torque rod bolt. Worth inspecting . . .

I am currently in the process of sorting out all the fasteners I've kept over the past 45 years, and those my Father and Grandfather kept as well. I expect the scrap weight of those discarded will buy coffee and donuts for at least a week.

Yes, yes. I dated a girl in college whose "moment of inertia [was] centered around her shoulders " . . .

Her moment of inertia is centered around her shoulders.

I don't have my reference materials in front of me, but I get that as #1,063 [correction: #1064] of 3,529 Sports for the year 2000. There is a Month-Year of the actual build on that tag . . . [edit: I see, now, the "finned" steel exhaust collars of the earlier production.] [edit 2/ correction: The first Sport built for the model year 2000 (YM) was 1111111 making this Sport # 1064.]

I am not going to participate in a thread about leather and pantyhose

My mistake, looking back through my orders from my 20-year overhaul of the 2004 Ballabio, Powerhouse UK is where I got the caliper kits for front and rear calipers. Gotham Cycles (Ducati/Brembo parts) is where I got the master cylinder kits for clutch (12mm), front brake (16mm same as used on Ducati) and rear brake. (some are the same parts as used on early Ducati 916 I think or at least use the same internal parts). You will see all the Brembo parts (with Ducati references parts on line). If rebuilding the rear brake master be sure to order the 90-degree fitting with O-ring (comes separate) as you will want to remove it from the master cylinder to make sure no bit or residue in there. That is where mine had plugged up, leaving back brake rubbing without me knowing, destroying pads, plastic pad cover, etc. On the clutch and front brake master cylinder I add a bleed banjo fitting where the brake line attaches to master cylinder. Makes it easier to ensure no trapped air. Gotham sells these as well. The parts are not too expensive, especially the rear master. I had also bought an original Moto Guzzi supplied Brembo complete front master cylinder with all the attachment, including lever, adjuster, etc., prior to finding the rebuild kits were available through Gotham. . On the shelf for a spare now. Hope this helps.

Very, very few of the RedFrame V11 Sports had the trans-frame plate support. Perhaps, only the very earliest Sports in Italy and Germany (1999?). The vulnerable crack point is typically the left, upper mounting boss for the frame cross bolt. @Lucky Phil posted a thorough investigation/ remediation of this. Many of us have retrofitted the frame support plate on the early RedFrame. Perhaps @LowRyter's man still has some in stock in Oklahoma (?) Be aware of the numerous leak points in the V11 motor-to-gearbox ("bellhousing") while they are easy to get to . . .

..as you can see, it's a real chick magnet.

There is clear precedent. You are absolved.

Under the rainbow...a Scura takes a breather. Wonderful day riding today...a few refreshing storms, some nice sunshine and then a beautiful rainbow!