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that's the first thing i plan to do, unplug that thing and see if the problem persists...

I figured since this subforum doesn't move much it's a good place to stick and edit for sale stuff... Roper slosh plates, obviously (Rusty star picket project) I bought throttle body bushings, and since I have 3 bikes that take the same ones I bought a bag of 30 to get the discount. Had to order offshore and took 2 weeks- odd size in the US. If anybody wants a set, I'll send them along for postage and a donut. CA cycleworks has the seals. I'm going to find a set of common injectors and have them ready to ship out, that way members can have them on hand for a quick swap, and send theirs to me without losing ride time. I made a nice stainless replacement rod for my rusty TB linkage. I don't have ends but swap yours on or find new from Volvo, Yamaha etc. $35 shipped to US. One day I'll have the plastic adjustment knobs for the TB linkage. In the works but not yet available.

Press, I think you have got me figured out.

I, of course, have never ruined a bolt, nut or screw in my entire life. Ever. Really. Oh, look, there's a flying pig...

Oh C'mon now. I did 10k on this. You can make Tellico from Houston in a day, if you leave at 4am.

V11_meticcio

Motore sperimentale per Fiat 500

V11_meticcio V11_meticcio

You should see what I do to myself. I buy bikes a breaker may not pay for and try to rehabilitate them.

well shit. you're being a real downer today @Pressureangle...

Rut Roh the Demon raises it's ugly head again. I think Power Commanders are universally despised by anyone not selling them. Before any root cause can be determined, a thorough precision tune-up is mandated. Also, both my '97 1100 Sport-i and my 2000 V11 Sport had a large differential in the injectors. After a quarter century, they need serviced. https://www.injectorrx.com/

OK thank you. As I have noted, both the regulator and stator are new from Electrosport, so it does seem unlikely that they were defective out of the box. It's going to take me a few days to troubleshoot this, as I have a bunch of other stuff getting into my schedule. Thank you again and I will perform your suggested test and report back.

And don't get it mixed up with the Shin Etsu...

The shorter list is 'what have I *not* f'd up through the years'.

It’ll still need a decent camchain tensioner and you’d be mad not to throw a chain at it at the same time. The fork dampers will be #@$&@#@ if they are the original sebacs, they used to blow as they rolled the bike off the end of the production line. Throw a set of FAC’s into it.

Surely- but I can't say just what the cost might be- may be less expensive to order a bag of 30 direct from the source. Lemme find it. Got them here- I'm sure they'd be glad to send direct. https://www.ebay.com/itm/235492214044?_skw=10pcs+sf-1+0808+self+lubricating+bearing+bushing+sleeve+8+x+10+x+8mm&itmmeta=01K555MNR051M09HMSJM535H5A&hash=item36d46e051c:g:AusAAOSwkuVbUCh8

The best methodology for putting Titanio canisters, grey Ballabio frame sideplates, and Rosso Mandello valve covers on your LeMans is to buy all those V11, rearrange the parts to your liking and keep them all. Seriously, let's ask the other inmates on the ward if that sounds crazy.

No keep it . Cheers Tom.

Eeee...ooooh... I think you're looking at anodizing or powdercoating. New parts are at best hard to find, and those pieces in particular seems unlikely, in good condition.

if i see a V11 for sale with those pipes, i'm going to buy the entire bike, swap pipes, and then resell it...

i saw a set a few years back for $700 with the ECU included. but i didn't have a V11 at that time. if i knew how hard-to-find they were, i would have bought them then...

She's pretty racy

https://www.leccotoday.it/attualita/sfilata-motoraduno-moto-guzzi.html

I wonder if Blondie is awaiting her turn to pose on the Guzzi....?

^^me^^ -for years. plus 5 source collagen peptides for joints, skin, hair, muscle. recently added creatine for muscle loss. @docc I don't find the "S" version, do you have a source to link? I have used DMSO with a chaser of diclofinac topical for hot spots in the past, but prefer homeopathic.

Ahhhh , you just don't know what all I have f'd up all through the years... Now , for your situation. Did you break it when you were tightening the valve cover ? if so , you will have no problem removing it. When you retighten these they will take about the same torque as a Phillips screw.

That would be "Sachse", I think. Has a good reputation in Germany. https://www.elektronik-sachse.de/shopsystem-3/en/Digital-Ignition-Systems/ EDIT: just so it doesn't look like I'm advertising, I have a Silent Hektik ignition and alternator in my V35 Imola, and am absolutely happy with it. Sachse has its fans, but I'm not converting. https://www.silent-hektik.de/

Yes, it is. Current should flow through the ignition switch, fuse, headlight switch, and up to the tach where it passes through to the charge lamp; the regulator seeing no input from the generator passes that current through to ground, illuminating the lamp. When the generator charges the regulator, it puts an opposing charge back into the lamp wire. When these are balanced, the lamp is dark. So it seems likely that you have a problem on the power side of the regulator with a less likely possibility that the regulator has some weird internal failure. A simple test would be key-on engine off test light (not DMM) at the lamp wire + post on the back of the tach. No light, no current.

After a short nap I have to go a little deeper. The red/black wire on the tach does not go to ground, so the tach ground is not likely an issue. Phil had said at the beginning that the VR takes it's signal through the headlight circuit, and that's the case here. The yellow wire is hot to the tach through the headlight switch, which powers through the F6 fuse, which powers through the keyswitch. So, what the lamp sees as system voltage is whatever makes it's way through all these junctions, switches, and connections; every connection introduces some resistance, and every resistance is telling the VR to output more power. Taking the brute force approach, I'd run a jumper wire directly from battery + to the headlight socket yellow wire, bypassing everything and seeing if the regulator then acts right. Understand I operate under the parable, 'A man teaches best that which he most needs to learn' and before now I haven't reviewed any of the later-than-my-97 V11 wiring, but it's relevant to my own efforts at the moment so time spent here is as valuable to me as it hopefully will be to you.

new wing of the factory under construction

My skeleton has skeletons it it's own closet. I used to pop Advil like chicklets. Best thing I ever did for joint pain is quit sugar and carbs. (mostly). Next best is to take Curcumin (Turmeric) supplements. No liver/kidney problems and a great anti-inflammatory. My Dad takes beetroot chewies and says they work too. Worth a shot.

OK well, I finally got a chance to sit down with the computer. First I'd like to say hats off to Doc For everything that he does.(BIG hug My friend} Gus and I had a fantastic time this year At the SSR. It was great to see and talk to everyone that showed up Including Kevin, A fellow Michigander Who Rode his O2 V11 Le Mans All the way down.(Kudos) Gus and I trailered ours. Because it's just too much saddle time And so Few days. My older son Josh, came up from Atlanta And met us at the lodge On Friday, early Afternoon. We all spent the rest of the day and evening. Behind Hardy 's.at the. large field, Where we flew RC gliders. Josh. also spent Friday night, Which gave us a chance to mingle in the garage, and then at the pavilion, were everyone all told stories and shot the breeze. Gus and I managed to ride 180 miles on Saturday, even though it was a little damp at the higher elevations Up in the Appalachian Mountains. We ended up with a cruise through the dragon's tail and stopped a few time for some pics, which I'll try to post. All in all it was a great time with friends and fellow riders And already looking forward to next year. Everyone stay healthy and ride safe! SKIP

i want to get a set of these: and these matte grey frame/footpeg plates: where is the best place to order these bits? from the factory, or is there another reputable OEM seller stateside? or does anyone have them for sale?

Unfortunately. It seems she aged very well.

I get mine out of the cupboard in the bathroom. My girlfriend buys it from the local chemist. I'm not quite convinced that it does absolutely everything it is claimed to do, but it definitely doesn't do any harm. And it does seem to help.

Very good. Get it back to where Luigi thought it should work, and take it from there. Bear in mind that the timing sensor is a known weak point. I think, by that mileage, that it probably isn't due yet, but it might be. Also, the rubber intake manifolds may be questionable due the the age of the bike (not the mileage). EDIT: messing around with the map is the last thing on the list. Make sure everything else is ok, i.e. how Luigi thought it should work, before you delve into the map. Otherwise you might end up changing the map to cover up a fault that has an entirely different, possibly simple and easily mechanically fixed, cause. Decent tune-up and all that....

Again, more confirmation through our good man, @v11_meticcio, with images and reference to the origins of our V11 motor from the SALA MOTORI (engine room) of the Moto Guzzi museo in Mandello . . .

The true predecessor to our big block Moto Guzzi V-twins!

Makes a big difference on the extraction opportunities . . .

Does the charge light come on KOEO ? key on engine off

Thanks and I'll need to digest all of this new information and get back here. In the meantime, this afternoon, I ran a 10GA wire from the red reg/rec output wire, directly to the battery +, bypassing the factory wiring harness aka loom. Took a quick test ride and still, the battery light went on at 4K revs, and goes out at lower revs. Also, FWIW, isn't the battery light supposed to go on when the ignition is switched on? My light doesn't do it....

Did we have this one already.

Factory accessory. They are more exposed on an air cooled head. Anything happens, just get a new head . Looks, oh well. Cheers Tom.

Because it is understood.

No , the portion in front of the seat cowl !