docc

Is that their "V-Twin" oil? I've used that quite a lot and still have my big ends. I presume they formulated that for big displacement, air-cooled, flat tappet, push-rod motors. I don't think it's SG rated, but again, not likely to find that now.

Yeah - the reverse megaphones. No mirrors whatsoever . . .

I'd have had to turn you down, in either case. The RedFrame-matched jacket is not so bad to squeeze into now, but those pants . . . I have a wonderful Vanson "drilled" jacket, but it still doesn't flow air and carry armor like the Olympia.

To my limited knowledge, no diesel oils will be friction modified. I believe any 15W-40 or thicker oil will not be friction modified. At least in the States, friction modified oils come with a "star" "Energy Conserving" label. Honestly, I learned to avoid friction modified oil listening to Pete Roper, and I trust his advice explicitly; same goes for what gstallons says. My post on temperature range simply reflects the lightest oil for the early motor is 10W-30 and the chart does not recommend it above 33˚C ambient (not thick enough for me, here). Also, the Tenni, Scura, and Rosso Mandello are the models with the single plate clutch; no piston sprayers until the 2003 model year (along with tight, black engine paint and the tank with internal filter/pump).

I bet they're in great condition, colours would probably go very nicely with a Tenni... Would that much trimmer lad be about 5'10", a lean 170lb? You looking for a date or making a bid on my leathers?

Seems 5W-40 was spec'd for the later V11 (2003-) with oil sprayers under the pistons. No mention of anything less than 10w-30 in the early spec's. Looks like it would be good to 33˚C/91˚F; and 20w-40 or 50 from freezing up. And "SG" - good luck finding that amount of ZDDP. Above all- avoid "friction modifiers" or "energy conserving" oils for passenger cars. Your sweet little virgin cylinder walls will thank you!

I had some Z Leathers made to match the Sport some years back (enough that they appear to have been cut for much trimmer lad Terrific stuff, on par with Vanson, but issues of "fit" and ventilation put me onto the Olympia Stealth for the summer temps here. Fantastic!

That, alone, would make it worth pulling the airbox . . .

Ogio and Arai are top shelf. More recently I began using a "modular" Shoei with my long-time Aerostich 1 piece Roadcrafter in grey/black. Pretty certain you can get them all in black . . .

That's pretty high miles - I'll bet it's much less. But also must be sure the speedometer is working. Rare bird! Too cool! Take pics!!

The manuals do show a good step-by-step for these basic procedures. Yet, there may be a tweak or two to make it all spin on greased grooves . . .

How many miles show on the speedometer?

+1 - likely the most rare V11.

"Timeless, raw, strange . . ." That's brilliant!

I've been waiting and watching a couple members who use each. The non-GPS uses a simple switch and completely eliminates the cable (and the problematic bevel drives of the early Veglia). It would appear that this solution would be last clocks I would have to worry about. Pretty thorough thread here in "How to . . ." Converting Speedometer to Electric Drive Also, see: GPS unit on chamberlin's V11

My next (fourth) speedo: SpeedHut

" These aren't the Guzzis you're looking for."

Yikes! What a spark!!

Yeah, I'd get a big ticket riding the Sport listening to that!

What an excellent upgrade for the early bikes! L/Phil - how many miles/km on your Sport?

I would say, for sure, starting will discharge the battery briefly, but the regulator should bring it back up if it's throwing 14.2 volts. But how long is your daily ride, ten or fifteen minutes? And stop and go traffic where the voltage at idle may be discharging ( 12.4 volts for an AGM is quite flat (65%). I would do a couple things: first, measure voltages 1) key off, 2) after 3 minutes of high beam, 3) during cranking, 4) at idle, and 5) at various rpm (2000-4500) Second, discharge the battery a few minutes with the lights the "push" the charging with a higher amperage (6-10amps) controlling the voltage manually in the specified range (14.2-14.7, not to exceed 15.0v). Follow this phase with a "float charge for 6-8 hours at 13.5-13.8v (NOT below 13.2v!) Monitor the voltage over a period of hours to days and recharge every time it drops to ~85% (12.65v). After a few cycles, your AGM should stabilize and hold above 90% for days to weeks.

That is an excellent question! I don't see specific voltage parameters for their product - so you'll have to monitor voltages/ amperage to be confident it is compatible with Odyssey's recommendations. I see they claim a "desulfation program", but recall Hubert (luhbo) had concerns about these protocols for the AGM. (I don't mean to speak for Hubert - I have learned much from his posts about these batteries). At over 100 US$, it seems better to get the Odyssey charger unless you already have one of these. (In that case, it's all about monitoring voltages).

I like the way the Scorpion's tune starts with, what sounds like, a simulation of hard motor sounds. I'll have to ponder, now, what music fits my Sport. Scud, thanks so much for sharing this extraordinary experience! And the equally extraordinary outcome!

This just keeps getting better! And with a *glimpse* of the cat behind it all!

Somewhere, I thought I learned that "cigarette lighter" sockets are not standardized - plugs and sockets do vary.