docc

My Sport has never run better, yet I'm compiling a list of *worries* for the 100k mile mark. I remember it making sense to put a timing mark on the flywheel and watch it with a timing strobe. If it jumps all about, the tensioner (and/or chain) should be suspect. I've also brought up the question (with no answer yet) as to what constitutes high "miles" for those accustomed to kilometers. 100,000 miles seems monumental to us Yanks, but that's "only" 160.000 km. Maybe we should have no worries 'til 200.000 km?

footgoose, I created this thread to bring milar's post and other posts together in one thread. I can't find that post of yours, but would like to link it here. Can you direct me to it?

What made you decide you "needed to upgrade to a Valtek tensioner?" And how would one know, say at around 100,000 miles , that his V11 needed a timing chain?

I can see this thread making it to "How To . . ." I mean, I don't see any hammers in the photos, but I heard Chuck say "hammer."

It's what forums, and The Blues, are for, right? I seem to remember a guy with really (really, really) high miles on his V11 that used to run RL SP Super-light in both the gearbox and the bevel drive. I wonder how that worked out . . . .

See? I feel better about this already!

Deja vu . . . http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=1675

Time for Gearbox and Rear Drive/ Bevel Drive oil changes (over 12,000 miles/ 20.000 km) before the South'n Spine Raid. At the cusp of rolling over 100,000 miles, I've used many different gear oils in these two applications. I have always favored RedLine Shockproof Lightweight (blue) in the Gearbox, but admittedly have used "cocktails" before. I started out using the MG Final Drive oil that had the moly mixed in (apparently a Motul product?), but it became unavailable (seemingly), so I went to RedLine Shockproof Heavy. Through a series of changes, I feel certain I overfilled it and prompted seal leaks that plagued me for a long time. During that time, and since, Ive used a variety of lubricants in the Rear Drive including the addition of a moly additive. Now for The Blues . . . I have a shelf full of various, left-over, high quality gear oils (Agip, RedLine, Mobile1) and even a little moly additive (Kal-Gard) that I ponder making "cocktails" (combinations of remaining lubricants) or doing a fill with a single lubricant that I have enough of. So, Mob1 75-145 GL-5 or RL 80-140 GL-5+ is fine for the Rear Drive (with/ or without the moly additive)? Or too viscous at operating temperature? And for the Gearbox, RedlIne MTL 70W-80 GL-4? Or is that too "light?" (I don't want to munt my gearbox. we have enough threads on that already! ) There is also a bottle of Agip 85W-140 GL-4/5 I'd like to use, but for what? I appreciate all of your insight and input!

When Andy York went to test my Exhaust gas, I freaked because the dealer had told me he wouldn't take those out because they strip the header threads. Andy said, "not likely," and just unscrewed them. The Sport had almost 58,000 miles on it then. That said, I would be inclined to use a little heat around them and maybe some penetrating oil (ATF and acteone mix/ "Ed's Red")

You can't just take it out and measure it?

*Cars*? Oh, "Yer funny. I like you already!" (Yup, this is what a true V11 Guzzisto does when he's trying to put off changing all his fluids . . .)

(Sometimes a guy takes a little stab at humor and sticks a fork right in his own eye . . . ) I'm thinking this bike is gonna work out great for you. Your uncle will be amazed.

Like, check it out: "Cars . . . " http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19326

Sheesh - sorry -I was just feeling a little edgy there for a second . . .

Cars are for punks!

See? This is coming together! Now you just need a good bass man to sit in with that drum set in your avatar . . . http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19248

Hmm . . . "Last active" in 2012 . . .

Is that who made the tank for "Ponti?"

Your exhaust can be "groomed" by releasing all of the fasteners: the header flanges, clamps, center hanger behind the gearbox (inspect the rubber), canister hangers, then re-tightening them a step at a time in a *star pattern* while bumping it gently here and there with a soft mallet to relieve all stress from the exhaust system especially at the header flanges. If that doesn't open that space, something is bent.

The specification is for DOT4, which is fine. There are other options, but not to worry about that now. A couple more important things: remove the wheels and inspect the brake pads (especially the rears as they wear rather quickly). Take the time and care to clean the piston movement in the calipers until all of the pistons move evenly when the pressure is applied. You will have to "block" pistons while working one in and out repeatedly while cleaning with brake cleaner (in a *well ventilated area*) and cleaning and LIGHTLY lubricating the pad pins with silicone grease ONLY. Special tools: clamps and wood blocks to retract brake pistons.

Back to finding a source for a run of alloy tanks? Or just run zero-E fuel? (not an option for everyone, apparently)

Move the shift mechanism through its travel and adjust to the gap at its closest point. I rechecked my notes and I adjusted mine to 0.035" or 0.9mm its not too critical unless its too tight which will be obvious when you run it through the positions on the bench. 1mm or 0.040" would be acceptable I should think. Ciao Ciao I wish I understood better where this gap is set?

Heh -"Mandello West"

We coconut-types can see real pros when we see them - not a single hammer anywhere in sight!

do it docc.... do it! (couldn't find one eating popcorn) Right? Next Tech Session at the South'n Spine Raid? whew - we'll be up all night (again . . .)!