gstallons

If you are in the least bit of doubt about your abilities , take them to a reputable shop .

Well , you replace all your shi**y shifts w/righteous ones !

Did you get this to come apart ? This regulator is at the end of the fuel supply , so it maintains the fuel pressure @ a constant # . If it stops / stops up the pressure goes to the max the pump will produce . When you get this together/fixed/running , use non-ethanol fuel only .

Curiosity killed the cat . What are you looking for inside the regulator ?

This is what Ky teenagers listened to in the 70s when you were partying ! Trust me , this group was not housebroke . p.s. this is dedicated to the member (V 11) I can't remember from Black Oak , Ark .

Yes , you can do it that way , removing the spark plugs will make rotating the c/shaft MUCH easier .

Please do yourself a favor and get the TPS adjustment cable to make this procedure much easier . You will not regret it and you will get a perfect reading . I got some ends (they look just like the banana plug ends on Fluke leads) and soldered them to the cable ends . It looks professional and gives a perfect connection . There is still a Mom n Pop store ( Hughes Electronics) in Paducah that sell all the goodies and have the stuff in stock ! Also , you are talkng to counter people that know more than you do . A rare trait nowadays !

This forum is not the place for political s^^t . I would appreciate it if you would remove it .

I "think" this is the v you set to after the throttle plate is adjusted to FULLY closed.

That is some pretty good welding .

Put the stock air filter system back on and see what happens .

IDK about all Amish but , they sure have some unusual convictions .

What I would do is , get a length of all-thread and bottom it out in the engine case and mark it where you can cut it leaving enough to install a lock washer/nut in place of the socket head capscrew . This way you will take advantage of the depth of threads in the engine case . Now when you use a stud you are pulling the threads instead of screwing the threads .

The #s sound good & I would use a good anti-seize lube !

I HAD a tuner on my bike and spent a lot of time & money trying to get my bike dialed in to find out the tuner was at fault .

In all the pics I see on this thread , the fields (field windings) are wound and not permanent magnet fields . Also , power window motors , etc. are permanent magnet . Many factors . size , cost , etc . Nothing wrong with them , I wouldn't want one on a diesel pick-up though .

Yes . the case is one solid cylinder with no countersunk screws in the motor case . The smaller diameter motors are permanent magnet . 99% of all mowers along with automotive vehicles are permanent magnet starters . Some time ago , one of these forums discussed the magnet coming loose from the housing and causing no-start conditions . There was an adhesive to re-glue this magnet back in to the housing . Sidenote = never hit the starting motor with a hammer if a no-start condition exists . These magnets are brittle and will break leaving you with a museum piece .

I hate to affect this conversation but , the starter drive splines on the armature are designed for the motor rotation as well as the sprag in the starter drive . You can get the starter to rotate in the opposite direction but , you can't fix this problem . I went to a buddy's house a few years ago where he replaced the battery on his Dixie Chopper . He replaced the battery and the starter would no longer engage .After an hour of work , I found the battery installed backward . The most important "moral of the story" . A permanent magnet motor will rotate backward when you install the battery backwards .

Try it w/o that TFI addition , install new plugs , check the oil for dilution and ride it for an afternoon to make sure you feel an improvement .

When you do your Super-tune on this bike , you want to keep this idle kicker out of the equation . You will tighten it after everything else is done .

Is that Farmtractorhenge ?

Not a change but more of a transition .

$2200 shipping ? Yeow !

It works for any MG . You just do not want to leave any fasteners in the pan when trying to loosen / remove it .

Make SURE you have EVERY bolt out of the pan before you try removing the pan . Get under the bike and verify all the bolts/capscrews or whatever you want to call them are out of the pan .