gstallons

You do NOT want to ruin an engine , be deliberate and be careful

They get heavier EVERY year .

As long as I am alive , you will NOT be the the worst .....

No , when you start drawing your own diagrams , you are getting better . Keep it up . You will only get better . Use the V11 diagram to compare with and judge your work with . Also , take your diagram to an office store , have it enlarged & laminated .

There is no proper sequence for hydraulics . You just have to TRY what worked last time . Since there is no last time..... i have a (can't remember the name) hydraulic bleed kit and reverse bleed . Open the bleeder , connect hose and force fluid back through the slave up through the master and catch the fluid and air bubble(s) . You want the master to be as level as possible to get the air out . Also , you can push the fluid from the master through the slave to get the air out too . Keep the master as level as possible too . Good luck & use DOT 4 fluid

Bridge , did you get the clutch working ?

You can take the correct size wrench and loosen the nut by one flat and retighten the nut until it is SNUG . Or you can remove the tank and install a new o-ring and remove the tank 3 Xs , install a new low level sensor just to realize you could have done Step # 1 .

The OTC 7103 set is probably the best to use .

Uhhh , you have about $100 worth of picks and use caution & hope for the best ! Worst of all , make sure not to gouge the bore of the fork tube .

look on Youtube . 3M AU-205 starting motor magnet adhesive . If I knew how to put it on here , I would .

What does Google say ?

Yeah , I think a person can think too much about something . I can remember having a conversation one time and this guy was concerned that the engine in his car didn't stop in the same position EVERY time .

I bought some of these in the 70s from Fastenal & they were listed as spherical rod ends .

Hmmm , I would talk to a starter rebuilder or (if there is) a starter forum and see what happens . Also , these things have to be in perfect position when reinstalling them .

Stick a magnet up in there and remove all doubt .

ALLMAN BROTHERS / Fillmore East . The entire recording . One of the best of all time .

Buddy , I paid this shop $50 to swap the rear . I let them know "no mars , scratches , dings , nuthin' . I can't get another wheel like this" . Well , after a 10 day wait for a tire changer part , it is back ( in perfect condition ) and on ! One of you said "new tire , new brakes" was/is right . A law not a suggestion . Now , all I need is time .

It just soaked in......................

Look at the math . 01 Scura $10k Good looking bike . Ohlins , lots of plus .$10k , no way. 01 v11 for $5k or 05 for $6500 . 4 years for $1500 . Mmmmm . The 05 would be my choice .

Hmmm . Uhhhh , it's a fiddle here .

Electrical dead Scura ? if that were the case , every V11 owner would be taking their bike somewhere else .

Photos : priceless !

If it comes with ALL fasteners, buy it .

IF you don't know what to look for ad/or the seller is vague , take a friend / authority with you to be a good third party . my 02/03 had more patina than I wanted , BUT I bought it from another member . I am satisfied with it and ALL the $ I've poured into it . I doubt if you will be taken , but be a careful buyer . ASK plenty of ?s and have a checkoff list . If there is a member in the area , get them to go along . Is this bike perfect ? Hell no . you will be busy with it and you will be satisfied with a damn good bike !

"I have bought the last bike of my life"....I'm not sure about that . The second part bothers me "which is quickly winding down" . Let's go over this part ..........