Kiwi_Roy

Did you ever solve the noisy fuel pump issue? If you have an electric petcock (chrome thing hanging down under tank) if the coil is open circuit I believe the pump will be able to suck it open but will be extra noisy. I recommend strapping the two wires to the body with a ty-wrap so they don't break off where they emerge from the epoxy.

If you look closely at this schematic you will see that the ECU and all the important stuff like injectors is supported by just 3 wires from the rest of the bike. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif The wire with the connector 58 is just the signal to the tacho, it's not important. The red wire feeding Fuse 1 & Fuse 2 is obviously important. The most interesting one is the one running through connector 57, see how it goes directly to the coil of relay 49 (the ECU Relay) The other side of the coil is grounded through the 1N4007 diode. (this diode prevents anything bad happening if you accidentally put the battery in with the polarity reversed) When you turn the key On if the stars are aligned the relay 49 is energized closing the contacts feeding power from Fuse 1 to the ECU and also to the coil of relay 46, the other side of this relay 46 coil is grounded through the ECU pin 19 so that relay also closes putting power on the injectors, ignition coils and the fuel pump which starts to whirr. After a couple of seconds the ECU thinks "I'm not receiving pulses from the rotation sensor 53" and un-grounds the coil of relay 46 stopping the fuel pump. If the engine starts to crank over the rotation sensor sends pulses to the ECU which wakes up and again grounds out pin 19 causing Relay 46 to again power up the fuel pump and sparks etc. causing the motor to start and run. Now suppose you turn the key On and no power passes through the connector 57 to the coil of the ECU relay 57, the bikes not going to start in 100 years. Suppose also the bike is running but the power to connector 57 is erratic, the relay 49 is going to drop out causing the ECU to have a fit. Lets back up and see what comes before the connector. First of all the Ignition switch is fed from Fuse 4 to terminals I & K, the table shows which contacts are made in the 4 positions Park, Lock Off and On In the On position stand switch 40, the relay 15, Neutral light and the Start relay 23 get power. If either the Stand switch or the Stand relay are closed power goes to the Kill switch and the bike should crank over. BTW the contact is missing on the Kill Switch, just imagine the two contacts are connected by the Run contact. Look at the Start button then trace the wire down through a bullet connector 60, out to the clutch switch 17 and back through another bullet connector 60 then to the Start relay 23 It's really just a collection of simple circuits.

Doesn't look like my greeney at all, great job. Sent from my shoe phone!

You can test all the sensors from the ECU connector. I'll send you the sketch. Sent from my shoe phone! Update Why did I think you were testing sensors? I read that somewhere. For painting black frame parts Por15 is great, apply it with a brush and it smooths out better than a rattle can finish, I did the frame on my Eldorado, looks like a powder coat job.

Yes, I noticed, his famous clock sculpture is on loan, sitting out on the street near my office, I was blown away when I bumped into it.

Spanner, can't be from around here LOL Sent from my shoe phone!

The regulators I have dissected are set at 13.8 Volts, the bike picks up another ~0.5 through drop in the headlight relay, more if it's an earlier one because the headlight relay was fed through the start relay. Something to try is unplug the male/female connector and turn it so only the black regulator wire is connected, if the warning light still comes On it's a short to chassis in its wiring. IMHO the light is pretty useless as it will only work if the regulator is ok Sent from my shoe phone!

Wow, I love what you have done with your bike. Welcome to the forum.

I read that as "If you drag one more motorcycle home I'm leaving" LOL

I would ditch the power commander, those wer ok as a stop gap measure before we got Guzzidiag. I went with a MyECU kit so I could make adjustments but now I'm thinking of changing back to stock

Buy the red bike, a nice 72 Eldorado if I'm not mistaken, loads of fun

I used a spot of JBQuick to check mine I made sure there was a tooth lined up and bolted the sensor in place. The epoxy won't stick to the gear because it's oily. Left it to harden for a few minutes. I found it next to impossible to measure with calipers subtracting probe length from hole depth. Of course you can use feelers but you have to remove the timing cover for that. I may be wrong but I think the ECU looks for the gap in the phonic wheel (tooth missing) then counts teeth from there to know when to spark etc. so it would seem to follow if it misses another pulse through wrong gap or bad sensor it must really throw it out. My bike has always had the tendency to cough and stall at idle if I have it set too low. We need to do some research on the Fiat part Number, I'm sure the same sensor is used in others as well, it's likely a Marrelli part. I have been lurking on an English site lately, they seem to have had a number of them go bad

If you think the ECU might be switching off then look for that. A small lamp e.g. 12 Volt LED connected to the wire that feeds Pump, Coils and Injectors would turn Off. The easiest place to access that wire is pin 87 of relay 5. Tape the lamp to the bars where you can see it safely, next time it plays up you have the answer plain and simple. I'm sure I suggested before monitoring the ECU input (petcock fuse or relay 4 coil). You could also monitor the TPS Voltage with a very simple circuit and an LED

The current will be hard to measure it's not a smooth DC but a series of half wave pulses at high frequency and I suspect 35-40 Amps in magnitude that's why I suggested eliminating the alternator by pulling the 30 Amp fuse to let the bike run on battery alone for a few minutes. The cam sensor is a very simple device, just a coil around a magnet 680 Ohms, as the teeth of the wheel pass each one disturbs the field a little bit to cause a spike in the coil If it had an intermittent open circuit it would drop out the power to coils, injectors and the pump and of course the ignition could get all out of sync since the ECU counts the pulses from the sensor starting at the missing tooth to know when to fire. Lately I have been reading of a number of failures in the sensor, I think it might be wise to have a spare since it would leave you stranded. Apparently it's also used by Fiat although I don't know for what model. An easy way to gap it is stick something like a blob of JB Quick or wax on the tip, install it then take it out again and measure the blob. An air gap 0.7 to 0.9mm according to the WS manual.

Eliminate the regulator next time it's spluttering by unplugging fuse 3 Don't leave it out too long though or battery will go flat. Sent from my shoe phone!

If the fuel filter gets plugged off the pressure ramps up from 45 to about 70 psi then it gets noisy, I had this on an EV with a rusty steel tank but I can't imagine what would block the filter on a Nylon tank. It would also fix itself when stopped, I figure some of the rust would drop off the surface leaving a bit of a path for a while but soon came back. No need to replace the filter just take it off and back flush this will get most of it out and let you see what the problem was. On the EV it was followed shortly after by a loss of power on the hills as the injectors were getting starved.

When you press start it puts 12 Volts on both coils, this passes 10 Amps through one but 30-40 Amps through the other. When the main contacts close it puts 12 Volt on the other end of the heavy current coil so it drops to zero Amps. If the main contacts don't close or loose main lead the 15 A fuse will pop in about 1/2 second, a 20 A will last slightly longer. An oxidized battery terminal would also cause the fuse to blow. By improving the wiring you increase the current. There's a lot going on in that innocent looking solenoid.

JRD, thanks for the feedback It's interesting you should find it necessary to increase the wire size but I can see why. I calculated that the Valeo starter solenoid should draw 50 Amps inrush at 12 Volts but in fact it's draws well under 40 Assuming you have the Startus Interuptus fix this would be due to the wire gauge and resistance in the relay and base along with the fuse resistance. I don't have figures for 18 gauge but between 14 and 16 it's about half. 3 feet of #16 would drop around 0.5 V at 40 Amps 3 feet of #14 would drop around 0.36 V at 40 Amps # 18 is probably closer to 1 Volt Any Guzzi after 2002 comes out of the factory with the Start relay wired through the ignition switch (including the 2008 Norge), this in my opinion is crazy, I wonder how much this has hurt Guzzi in lost repeat sales over the years. I still maintain the factory don't have a clue as to how the starter works. With the fix the inrush current will be more like 40 Amps so a 20 Amp fuse is appropriate.

And the TPS is very easy to check with a meter, just tap into the wire with a sewing pin and connect the other meter lead to chassis. My manual shows the slider connected to pin 1 If you hold the plug so you are looking into the sockets with the catch at the bottom pin one is lower left If you want to make a more permanent arrangement bare a little bit of insulation and solder a short wire to it ending with a blue insulated connector, they are just the right size for a meter probe.

M.A.W. is in South America he probably has the only Guzzi in the country and doesn't have access to all the parts suppliers like we do. But he may have the worlds cheapest gas.

Guzzi2Go, The Voltage regulator senses the Voltage on it's black wire and decides if the battery needs charging based on that. The problem is not connected to the battery Voltage directly, its connected to the headlight feed after the relay at a point half way along the tank. A small red/black wire is soldered to the headlight feed and the female bullet socket of the Male Female connector. On the bikes before 2000 the headlight relay is also in series with the start relay 87a contact. Check your bike to see how much Voltage it drops, with the key On and headlight On measure the Voltage from battery positive to the red/black socket the regulator plugs into. I have seen mine vary from 0.5 to 1 Volt mainly caused by the relays and sockets. If your bike has been modified by adding headlight relays powered directly from the battery the drop will be very low. BTW this is why you shouldn't ride with the headlight fuse pulled, the charging will not work. If you have an after market direct connect regulator ignore all this.

The Go Winkie can flash for several reasons Let's be clear it's normally On with the key On, goes out with a fault, it's not magic it won't show every fault just a bunch that will shut you down. Earlier Bikes up to 2002 I think http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif Loose or broken wire Blown fuse 4 Ignition switch Bad sidestand relay Sidestand or Neutral switch Kill switch I am sure there are other reasons, the thing is the flashing light allows you to quickly zoom in on the problem, as you are scratching around sooner or later you will touch something that makes it better or worse. I've only had mine flicker twice, both times it was on about half brightness and flickering caused by the stand switch sizzling away it was so obvious the switch was at fault just touching it caused an improvement. If you look back at my earlier post you can see I have a wire stuffed into the relay socket to short the switch out. After 2002 http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif Pretty much the same except now the solenoid is fed through the switch, I'm pretty sure you would see a big dip in the light in a case of Startus Interuptus or even a weak battery.

Take a close look at this schematic http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif Take a pencil and draw a line down the left hand side of the ECU and across the bottom of items 55,54,53,52,51,50 and then up around the bottom of Fuse 1 and 2 How many wires did you cross? Only three, what do they do? The first one at connector 58 is just the signal to the Tach, it could be left off and the only thing is the tach would stop working. The third one is battery positive to Fuse 1 and 2, obviously that's important but very easy to check. The second one is the only one of any significance it tells the ECU to turn On, if that one is alive and you have 2 good relays chances are the bike will run. Wouldn't it be handy to know if it's alive or not? So what am I getting at?

If I was to buy another, it would be brighter than 3000 lumen. Not enough to melt the road seal, but enough to stun possums. : You would have to be a kiwi to appreciate that LOL Sent from my shoe phone!

This is "a special place for such nonsense"