footgoose

Britain is in my heart. My condolences

so now I'm thinking about my 545's - 3 of them. I know one is old because it was in the bike for a long time and when it started getting weak I bought a new one. BEFORE I knew of Docc's expert treatise on conditioning. I got another one a few years ago in my "parts bike". I put the new one in the Tenni and proceeded to condition the others. I just now ran out to the shop and checked the 2 on the bench. Not been charged in 5 months. One at 12.56 and one at 12.38. (I'll bring them back to full tomorrow) My curiosity peaked when I see "2019" tags on both - can't be true. Odyssey site revealed no info on the build dates... but this link did https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=73563 the first post decodes the build dates I guess they use them in aircraft too! my serial #'s (the small sticker with the bar code) reveal one of them built 5/17 and shipped 10/17 the other built 3/10 and shipped 5/10 ............ I conditioned them 2+ years ago and charged them once last fall. I've always used a 30+ year old cheap charger with a 6a manual mode which I watch closely. I would not be afraid to use either in one of my bikes. The Sport came with a Shorai and after sitting cold for 5 months still shows 13.45v My XS650 with the same Shorai sat cold for about 7 months and shows 13.38v Odyssey batteries are not quirky, ... Docc is quirky... maybe ...by figuring out, through long study, how to keep the 545 at an optimal operating level for as long as possible. Thanks Docc I'll bet one of those extra 545's will outlast the Shorai

the tiny photo makes it difficult to see the ring ends. so, depending... I'll assume it's one of those very small, very deep set, tight fitting mf'r of a ring with no helpful ends. I sometimes use my micro screwdriver as a starter, with slightly larger ones as it comes out. An fine ice pick can be helpful helpful too. The video kid was hard to watch. The right idea with shaved ape execution. a little patience my son.

the standard model V11 clutch assembly on most models is a dual plate clutch with a steel flywheel. the factory Guzzi V11 "lightened" clutch assy on special models is a single plate clutch with an aluminum flywheel. The problem is with the alm flywheel. It isn't strong enough to handle stress. It can (and should) be replaced with the standard dual plate/steel assembly or an aftermarket lightened steel assembly.

"listen to that noise, it sound's like music" -Antonio Ligabue https://wide.piaggiogroup.com/en/articles/people/antonio-ligabue-and-moto-guzzi-a-bond-of-art-and-life/index.html

Though they may be the most desirable, I would suggest, is to the general population. Not to take anything from it mind, but not my cuppa either. I must say though, it was a stunning way to end the series, (I know-ScuraR) but they should have wrapped it up with an "equal" LeMans.

NICE bike!.... and the Italian flag garage floor! (don't let Bill H see this)

Nice score Bill. I approve

yes much better price if Canadian.

I personally wouldn't consider the Scura you've mentioned. For 10k it want's to be perfect, and that includes a clutch/flywheel upgrade-replacement, low mileage and near new. ANY seller who is not absolutely forthcoming with relevant info is hiding something. The '01 would be my choice of the other 2. They both are priced near the high end of reasonable IMO. The Scura with the OEM flywheel still installed is potentially a VERY serious issue! Replacing it yourself is doable (I did mine) but involves $ and a lot of work to separate tranny from engine. $$$$ to have done at the dealer. If the flywheel goes bang while riding, it can take out the motor case and maybe a piece of your leg. No doubt some guys sell their bike to avoid the cost of repair and the possible catastrophe. The aluminum flywheel was installed in 3 models afaik. 2001 Rosso Mandello 2002 Scura 2002 Tenni

what a story

Absolutely. For sheer horsepower and firepower the P47 was clearly superior. Some of the combat history I've read lately has left me occasionally feeling a bit sorry for the opposition.

reminds me of an old meme, and... the question 'what is the next word?'

the P38 and the F4U... easily the most beautiful aircraft from the era. followed by the Spitfire and Messerschmidt BF109

My rudimentary knowledge of combustion tells me hot can mean a lean mix. First thing I'd look at is a possible air leak into the hot side intake. Like the cap (if you have one) on the balance nipple for the hot side throttle body. Those tend to dry rot. If not that, I would do the check involving a flammable spray onto the intake boot area while idling. While yer at it make sure you have no exhaust leaks. 50 deg doesn't sound like a lot. Is there any color difference to the head pipes? After that ... I'd ask the smart guys.

might try cable lube. I assume you cleaned it. I use this for all my non hydro bike clutch and brake cables, as well as speedo. I just drip it in at the top till it feels right https://www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-superior-lubricant-drip-bottle/

ok, here's one... 1971 separated US Army early May. This was taken late fall same year. My hair used to grow fast. When I got out I bought the fastest thing I could find. A '69 Mach III. A couple things of note... This was taken at Geist Reservoir outside Indianapolis, when it was owned by the good citizens of Indiana and the water Co. as a resource for water. Then the inevitable... You can't get near the water now unless you walk out someone back door. All private property. All very big $. My fatigue shirt shows signs of the remnants of the heavy starch we used to have done for the level of "Strac" required for Airborne troops. A great set of boots that were lost in Jamaica that winter to a Rastafarian with a pistol. All my money was in a secret pocket in the boot. Ahhh the memories. I add this beautiful bike to the long list fo stuff I should NeVeR have parted with. Ironic that I traded it after 2 years for a 1960 Austin Healey 100 Six... which I also sold.

I did the same docc, and got a bit more by bending the tab some

it seems you might be using "BBCode" use "Direct" as a copy option

also.... trying to recall as it's been awhile since install/removal .... the brackets curve mount as a 'frown' as apposed to a smile. The raised bits on the bracket is a spacer and goes inside the frame mount for the muff hanger, onto the longer bolts you've installed. need lock nuts to secure brackets.

yes reverse the brackets so the 2 reinforced mounting holes are forward. They attach to the muffler hanger frame mounting points. Install those first. You'll need longer bolts as I recall to get through everything. I had to remove the rear seat cowel to not damage it getting the bolts in/out. Once the brackets are on, attach rack.

my '02 is 3 and 3. I'm researching 4 and 4 terminal blocks as we speak.

Re: rear axle. We've had instances of owners discovering that the rear wheel 'between the bearings spacer' was manufactured a tad bit short, causing it to eat bearings from lateral stress. Always a good idea to check bearings for notchy-ness every time the wheel is off. This 'could' cause the tightness you are referring to. There is a topic on it somewhere but once again, I can't find it

So... I used a hammer and then I found this thread. A better idea..... I will post my thread addressing the same, if I can find it.

I see I left out one other measurement - the wide set holes. That's the same as your frame mount AND the oem 'low' bracket. I can give more detail if you go that rout and need it.