footgoose

If you don't find those bracket adapters, they'll be easy to make. Pictured is stock. The offset holes are 23mm center-center with an overall height of 46.80 (no need for accuracy with the height) on a flat steel plate (these are 6.25 thick but anything close will work) Just eyeball the general shape and length. They barely show when installed. The nut you see is welded on but it's not necessary - easy to get to. All holes are the same size as the hanger. The cans are an easy job too. Drill them out, rub out the dings, reassemble. I used alm rivets because I figured I'd dent them again - which I did!. Polish? I didn't have any luck with that, so I used fine scotchbright as a buffer in the same direction of the grain to try to duplicate the orig brushed finish. There are a couple of forum threads on Ti can repair.

If it's bent, don't ride it fast or far. Just for "shake downs" no pun intended. The vibe will eventually blow out the uni joints. I saw a shaft from an '04 on ebay a short while back, low miles I recall. Hang in there, you'll get it sorted. You're in the right place.

Electric?

On the bright side, they're contemplating a new model. I'd be more optimistic toward something exciting if they had at least INCLUDED a V11 in their bloody "centenary anniversary image", a supposed evolution of the passion of the marque. FFS, when will the indifference and disrespect of the V11 Sport/LM model end?

the mufflers came from Norway

really nice to see Dave. Nice chap filming and talking. Good Spring event, we all need one of those. The "other" black Norton was quite nice. keep 'em coming

yes

wot the hell is an atomiser on a motorcycle? I know what it is on a bottle of Windex

I just finished Morris' Theodore Rex, ..for the second time. Lovely man. I liked the shots around the homestead too, a nice tract of ground. Beata!

I like the Stornello as well, especially the red frame with the Arrow pipe. Fine machines indeed. Owning a Guzzi without passion for Guzzi can sometimes be, as with anything else, an onerous affair. Or as stated in my '65 Honda riders manual, the result of neglected maintenance could "chase you from riding further"

It's on the Tenni and believe it's factory wiring. Possibly the diagram being for '04 and Tenni being '02 is the diff. Or maybe a mistake on the diagram. Or maybe they used a different switch in mine. It is a Guzzi after all. The clutch safety switch and r/r only come together in my 'event scenario'. I'm referring to my breakdown at SSR16 and subsequent diagnosis of a dead R/R. As we've discussed, the R/R is susceptible to heat and age. The location on the Tenni is the worst! Laid high and flat and behind the oil cooler. With the start button not working, I had my gear off, seat off, tools out, relays, manual out, starter cover off, etc.. experimenting ...looking for a start problem.. and the thing starts up! Afraid to turn it off, I reassemble everything as fast as possible. Probably took 7-10 min to get rolling, on a hot day... 2 minutes into the ride, the light comes on, never to charge again. Seems like a perfect storm to destroy a R/R. I'm using language from the diagram re: clutch switch connectors #60

So, what I'm calling a boss on the underside of the top clamp is I believe a reinforced area for drilling for handle bar risers. They are on the early bikes as well but that area is drilled and tapped for a 'swivel lock' for the early bike's fork mounted risers. So, any top clamp will do if you're of a mind to have it drilled.

So I'm pursuing the first of what I think is a 2 part problem. First, my non responding starter button issue and a search brought me to this thread. Pretty sure it's the start circuit's problematic bullet connectors. Classic symptoms. I got them apart with difficulty, they were Tight, but wiggled within the connection. The thing I noticed in this thread is Taxguy's pic of wiring does not match mine OR what's shown on KiwiRoy's wiring diagram (above) Mine matches the diagram with the exception of a wire color change going out (to the switch) of the connectors. (2 black/white going in and 1 blk and 1 gry going to switch) I'm sure I have located the correct connectors as #60 'clutch switch' because they are the only connectors I could see on the diagram and they are in the right place. I may have got the connectors wires crossed up on reassembly but I tested the start button both ways and it worked. I finished up everything at docc's recommendation and hopefully that's that. I'll move on to "part 2" of my issue in another thread. Dead rectifier. I think the issues are actually related but that's another story.

I think the "boss" or reinforcement is on all of them. So they can be drilled and safely used. (at least the later ones) I will check. I'm sure the '03 has them.

Yes more pictures! Welcome. Looks like you've succeeded in replicating the Tenni green. I like the early LeMans fairing too. I'm working on that one myself. It seems one must push the headlight bucket out a bit to get it to fit properly. OR have you got that mounted to a LeMans fixed fairing bracket??

Got booked in yesterday. Good friend Yamaha Bill will be attending again.

here's an old thread about green. photos aren't convincing but he sounds convinced. definitely a lead to follow though. please post any results. I'm looking for a green bike and will likely need the same. this makes complete sense as Guzzi already had the silver pieces

Wow what year was that?

hmmm. .. I'd be interested to know of a specific high quality upgrade.

Thanks for the candor (and tact). I'm with you completely on all this but wouldn't have a source for HCQ or Ivermectin. If I contract I'll just ask the Doc for it. What "style/form" of melatonin are you using. I took it long ago for a sleep aid but found that it woke me up about 4 hrs in. I guess I could take it in the morning. Allergies foul my lungs so I look forward to trying this. I take 2000iu D daily since forever, bumped to 3000 the last couple months with the related research. Emergen-C almost daily. Zinc when I feel something coming on.

Yes, pursue repairs. It should shift smoothly. Several points need attention, most of which is addressed in

I could have worded that differently. They had other reasons for the subtle frame changes. The LM fairing is what I speculate pushed them to pull the trigger on the new frame. Not likely an easy decision considering cost. The early frame surely needed braced but as you said, it could have handled the LM fairing. The real question in my mind is why the 1100 Sport was not designated a LeMans. Makes no sense.

Responding to Kane triples are all 54mm so they'll work either way. The neck post and bearings..? I ain't positive but why would they be different? Overall length of the Ohlins is 20 - 23 mm longer than the early front legs. You'll just have to run them up into the clamps a bit to maintain the same geometry. All the post '01 bike forks are longer to accommodate the new frame specs and allow for the new style clip-on. I'm still of the opinion that the later frame was designed primarily for the addition of the LeMans to the expanding line. The axle, I do not know but the correct axle and spacer should come with the forks. Front wheel and bearing 'should' be the same

high retail for used. they've had them since last summer. I got several pieces from that bike. thing is you can't get those except from a parted out bike... DAMHIKT

I've done the same but with printed off sections of google maps, highlighted and cut into trapezoids. I rode once long ago with a guy who used one of those scroll thingies. I thought that was cool but didn't have the patience to prep one.