footgoose

thanks. left field is where I play... https://www.altberg.co.uk/boots/hogg-all-weather-original

Far be it from me to deter any transactions on the forum. I always have something in 'Classifieds' and my pile of stuff does not seem to get any smaller. I don't sell these and I couldn't say if there are any left... I'm just ass ume ing. Just throwing out a friendly reminder of the Rusty Star Picket Project, the OP, and others', efforts to make these fine pieces available to us, with the designers blessing. I sold my extra one just before these came out... so will probably be needing another as I'm looking for yet another V11.

post #1 of this topic

Had to look up Helimot. Good folks it seems. I may have to get their gloves. Any experience with those? https://www.citybike.com/columns/uneasy-rider/fear-of-missing-helimot/

yes, by 'similar styles' I should have said 'same style' similar construction. As in - a riser that uses the existing bar and fork clamp and just acts as a spacer. I don't see why any of the 22mm ones wouldn't work with the stock bars. Other examples are out there to see and I can't really recommend any. Consider it experimental I would check with these guys to see if the "bars 40mm" means the fork diameter. The V11 is 54mm. The 70mm rise is 2.75in and I would guess it would require new lines. While you're asking them, see if their bars are 22mm like the V11

I don't see MPH risers with your options. I don't really know if they are still made. I had a set and did not install them as I found I like the stock config. The rise and pullback are modestly controlled by rotation. I know they can work inside the LeMans fairing without fouling. Many on the forum have used them. The best reason to use a riser of this type is retaining the lovely vibe reducing stock clip-ons. Pull one apart and look inside. The second best reason is you get to retain the unique and comfortable, classic Guzzi bar angle at the head. A lovely reach over the long V11 tank and a sight to behold... on or off the bike. Perfect wrist position for me. They came with longer hoses but I have read net info stating re-routing stock lines can get you there. I'd plan on new lines. There are other similar styles available .. anything with a 2" or so rise would likely work the same way.

I'm down with all of that. Coffee and cake in the room then down to the garage. I'm just glad they're still having us inn. Thanks docc

one of these might help on your lever ... https://gtmotocycles.com/products/gt-long-eccentric-folding-toe-peg I'm re-doing my levers now and will be using them to prevent tip over breakage. A smaller throw version ... https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/woodcraft-eccentric-folding-toe-piece?gclid=CjwKCAjw34n5BRA9EiwA2u9k36im21wCZJelA3hYzQLDuxIe-jU8gh_-qby3Al5p_mj5a4937rRutBoC9n0QAvD_BwE

Stunning condition, congratulations. The rear rack is a Guzzi accessory piece btw.

The stock bag is just "ok" but I still use mine. I'm on my second one because the zipper broke on the first. It's fairly handy. The tank pad/protector that comes with it is outstanding. I have used on occasion an older tour-tech strap on bag over the MG tank pad. The MG bag tank pad is substantial enough as a base to even things out for the tank chin pad AND provide side shimming to hold up any other bag you might use.... considering being limited to a bag with neck-to- seat length strap mounts, it is quite a distance to cover and maintain stability. I don't know which Kieiga you have but check the possibilities of strapping it to the tank. We don't have many options available so ..once again... Guzzi has provided 'creativity' as a possible answer.

Chuck's Scura`came.

You will both be missed.

nice Dave, thanks

I've often wondered if and how thread lubricants might alter torque response.

I really think it is the micro switch at the front brake lever. Loosen the tiny bolt/nuts and wiggle the the switch some, making sure there is no binding, pull the brake lever and let it flip back... if the light goes out, you found it. Flip the lever as you re-tighten the bolts to be sure the light stays out, without tightening 'too' tight. This has happened to me twice on different V11. Once just loosening the bolts made the light go out. It is a sensitive little switch. If this doesn't fix it, I still think it's the switch.

The caliper bolts were very snug. Not so much the pinch bolts. I think I would have used blue. I'll just clean them this time, with proper torquing. As you've pointed out, nothing's going to fall off

oddly enough my first thought at seeing the stuff in the threads was silver anti seize. Heck, it's possible I had this knowledge at some point and it went. Will proceed as you suggest. ty sir.

I hear ya Jami. I'm 70 and possibly more fortunate physically than some. What Phil says makes sense. I'm not sure I'd ride anything for 8 hrs without something hurting. I got used to the stock LeMans and wouldn't change it. If I ever get to the point of not being able to safely ride her, she'll be parked in the living room. My longer ride bike is a Yamaha FJ09. Fast, comfy, reliable. But, not Italian..

Doing a front wheel install with new tire today and bolting everything up. The 10mm's on the caliper mounts and the 8mm axle pinch bolts have what appears to be thread locker gunk/remnants in the threads...ok... but it's grey! I don't know what this is. Does heat change the color? I swapped the wheel out 2 years ago and can't remember what color I used. Surely it was blue? Shirley? Will use standard torque values for the caliper @45-50nm and the pinch bolts @25-30nm since I can't locate the spec. UNLESS it "feels" too much on the pinch bolts. Sound good? Also ... shouldn't there be schnorr's at the pinch bolts? (Ohlins)

the pawl spring only puts tension on the arm, for positive engagement. Not sure which spring aids the shift lever. I suspect one of "those others"

not without slight modification. I have sold it. Thanks

^^^ this is a very good sign ^^^

that looks good, it's been awhile since I did mine. One of those allen head bolts at the bottom (behind the frame rail) is a bit tricky. I sacrificed a wrench (cut it off) and used a small steel tube as a cheater bar for adequate torque. Somewhere on the forum is a Lucky Phil thread on "finessing" some of the other bits... while your in there, very worthy read.. I used three-bond 1194 (grey) to seal her up.

I use a very old standard charger set to manual and 6a. I time it and try to not forget. I have 3 545's and this charger works fine. I have done the conditioning protocol and brought back one I thought dead, and successfully condition the other 2 seasonally. Only question for me would be how to discharge them on the bench. I used a test clip with a light but it doesn't pull enough.