footgoose

Going out on a limb here but... there's a short somewhere. go to the auto parts store and get a reset fuse (?). I did that when I had a short. saves you a bunch of fuses

Some folks enjoy the analysis. I get it. I rely on passion for passionate pursuits. I got it wrong a couple times. No more than yourself. Knowing a little about MG history and zero about the V11 Sport/LM (didn't know of them) , it was love at first sight in '02. "yup, that's me" I was right.

are you happy with your choice of charger? is that the 6 or 12a?

Swooshdave's suggestion is perfect from my perspective. With a collection of such great bikes in your garage, the notion that you're looking at a Guzzi hints something may be lacking with the others. BTDT, and what the others lack, the V11 has in spades. Welcome.

14 K I ask because mine from new was a bit sticky between 1 and 2. Until the mileage got up to around 8k. I also "learned" how she liked to be shifted. Positively, and with the rpm's a bit higher than with my other bikes. (other advantages associated with high rpm shifts) She's around 14k now and very happy. I've done all the stuff Docc has suggested, and use Red Line Shock Proof heavy as lube.

Mileage?

I don't disagree with this. It should be noted that the bike can also be tuned to a very good state using the PC. Mine has been, and has functioned flawlessly and untouched for the last 6 - 7 years. I wouldn't add it now I'm more familiar with tuning, but I won't remove it while it runs this great. The bike also has intake and crossover mods (and now cans) and was dyno'd at Erico in Denver.

I don’t see how they could have positioned the required sized air filter any other place. I have a Suzuki and have had two BMWs that require a lot more than just removing the tank. Worst thing about tank removal is the fuel line. And be prepared for tank “stretch” by watching what happens when the rear bolt comes out.

I stripped a set, one each from 2 different bikes. One stripped clean with 1 coat. The other was so hard it still is not clean after 8 coats of stripper. I gave up. A powder coater will sand blast, and the finish will be hard and beautiful. If you want the polish look, they can powder very close to that too. Welcome rich, let us know how you get on.

right where yours says 4 1/4" mine says 4 5/8" It most likely bent at the weld of tab to frame. It seems the weakest point. the right side is as yours measures a heavy/medium scotchbrite will remove a bunch of scratches (linear motion)

I wrote a comment about that back in post 27 of this topic, along with adding a grease nipple.I got a bolt that was too long, cut it to length, then threaded it the minimum amount needed. Yes Marty, that is the post I saw. I remember thinking mine rattles there a bit too. I'll keep looking for one, but that long of an unthreaded section And a socket head is rare. Nipple's are always a good idea too. Thank's for catching me up.

OK, who was the member that switched out the long shift lever pivot bolt with one with a longer un-threaded section? I can't find one anywhere. The problem with the stock bolt is the threaded section goes too deep into the carrier (on the inner end). The threaded area is a smaller diameter than the collar. Not by much, but causes it to rattle a bit at that spot. I remember someone mentioning it and forgot to follow up. I figure as long as we're focusing on shift improvement, why not?

Pretty bike. The black side and valve covers work well. Nice (rare) Stucci flyscreen too!

Great tool. Great price. I love mine. Maybe you should get another V11 to put on it. Where are you in Indiana? V11 are pretty scarce around here.

Docc Haynes ~ Vampire Slayer

If I may jump into this topic for a related question... I want to do a couple of small CF repairs and don't know squat about it. This - https://www.ebay.com/itm/The-only-real-carbon-fiber-cloth-plain-4K-weave-kit-and-epoxy-resin-for-repair/282908515374?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649- guy has several kits, but are different "weaves" 3k 4k 6k etc... I'm not sure what matters. Anyone have experience? I'm just going to get one and have at it. thanks

I have an extra set of stock '03 but are not CF. They are the black metal wrapped ones. You can have for 125.US. but I can't imagine what shipping would be ! personally, I would get some nice aftermarket, more open, (louder) mufflers. you'll thank yourself.

she looks familiar... is that a Husky in the background?

I hope I haven't miss read and redundified here the cup, (#5) or receiving hole that the push rod goes in to is different from 5 speed to 6. I have in my hand a cup from a v11 5 speed with a hole measuring 6.7 mm dia. I also have an oem Tenni cup that measures 8.75 mm. (can't believe I'm saying this but) just pull your rod out and see if it fits into the hole

minimum order 600. gosh

not as bad as I expected Chuck.. ..if you don't need stainless https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=1ct7e5z I'm ordering an assortment of these https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=1ct7gj8 It looks like the bevel spring lock washers and schnoors are the same thing. I had a front motor mounting socket head bolt unscrew itself and fall out recently. Oddly enough it had no affect on alignment. I only noticed it missing when I had to take the motor out last year. all good vid's and info btw. the knowledge "bear" should be poked once in awhile. Edit; I see the links don't get to the place I wanted to show. you'll need a couple more clicks sorry

I'm jealous too. Southeast MO is my father's family home ground. Maybe next time

mmm Tenni

Welcome Kevin!

I have used a auto OR manual 2/6/10 amp on 6 in the past to condition with great result. I guess I have what I need!