Pressureangle Posted October 22 Posted October 22 (edited) 27 minutes ago, docc said: An example of what happens if the sealing surface of the crown wheel gets damaged by neglecting the outboard needle cage . . . Mind that critical maintenance at every tire change . . . Yes, as my own V11 showed, there can be *a lot* of rust hidden behind that bearing. I've sourced a couple different sealing type washers to go between the drive and swingarm, hoping to actually improve the seal around this water entry point. TBD how they work in operation. Also cleaned and coated everything inside with Cosmoline before reassembly. Edited October 22 by Pressureangle 2
Speedfrog Posted October 22 Posted October 22 21 minutes ago, PJPR01 said: Sorry...let me clarify and be more precise, 85w-140 was on the shelf (Mobil 1 brand), not this Chevron brand. My comment was around the viscosity rating, not the brand. The price says a case, I presume that's a case of 12 bottles or is the price of 1 bottle $115 bucks? Mobil 1 75w90 is costing me $20 bucks a quart. Know that Chevron Delo ESI gear oil also comes in 80w90 if you want to stay close to the recommended viscosity. Around the same price at ~ $112 for a case of 12/1 quart 4
audiomick Posted October 22 Posted October 22 4 hours ago, PJPR01 said: ... the standard 75W90 or 80w90 weight is recommended, no concerns about putting in 85W140. ... The only thing I have seen (read) regarding that, is that an oil with a bigger number after the W will tend to get a bit warmer under strain. If I remember rightly, the person who wrote about it, who is very knowledgeable, posted a picture that showed a final drive that had lost oil because the seals couldn't quite cope with the higher pressure generated by the oil getting warmer than intended. That was, however, after an extended stint on the German Autbahn at speeds well in excess of 100 m.p.h. . 2
Lucky Phil Posted October 22 Posted October 22 (edited) 4 hours ago, Pressureangle said: Yes, as my own V11 showed, there can be *a lot* of rust hidden behind that bearing. I've sourced a couple different sealing type washers to go between the drive and swingarm, hoping to actually improve the seal around this water entry point. TBD how they work in operation. Also cleaned and coated everything inside with Cosmoline before reassembly. Yes, I can see how they've been chewing their way into the bevel housing The washer was never intended as some sort of sealing device it's there for controlling the lateral float of the bevel box when the axle assembly is torqued up. The sealing of the bearing is controlled by the integral seals in the bearing. The issue with rust is water can work it's way into the gap between the axle and the bearing inner race and into the hole in the bearing inner race which is a redundant feature. A light smear of silicon on the axle where it engages with the bearing during instillation helps control this. Phil Edited October 22 by Lucky Phil 3
Pressureangle Posted October 22 Posted October 22 2 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: Yes, I can see how they've been chewing their way into the bevel housing Phil If you mean *my* housing, whatever disaster befell it came before my time. I have never found the proper stock washer for that space amongst the debris left in the bottom of the boxes- and it's on backorder from Harper's. Since it bears no pressure, I'll try replacing it with some synthetic washers that fit tight around the spacer and fill the space appropriately. 3
audiomick Posted October 22 Posted October 22 What I did today: drained the engine oil, took off the exhaust, had a look and then did a lot of pondering. What's on the list: Install a new timing sensor. Install a new timing chain, as recommended by @pete roper when I spoke to him. Looking forward a bit, do the "optimise the gear shift" thing as described by @Lucky Phil. The gear shift extender and so on are all here. Install the Roper Plate that has been here for some time. What stopped me today was realising, by actually looking at the bike, that getting the timing cover off is not as simple as I had visualised it. I was more or less thinking in terms of the small block motors, on which one can just remove the whole business at the front of the motor without any ado. I realised today that this is not the case with the V11 motor. The forward mount to the frame is in the timing cover, so removing the timing cover means immobilising the bike, in the sense that when that is done, it can't be pushed from here to there because there is a jack under the motor to support it. That is relevant because the bike is on a bike lift that belongs to one of the blokes that I share the garage with. I don't want to immobilise the V11 on his lift (again) for an indeterminate period. There is a bit of a Gumption Trap happening here, and I'm not happy about that. Question: I'm pretty sure I've seen at least one post here about how to get the timing cover off without taking the motor out of the bike. Can anyone point me to that? Apart from that, I'm seriously considering buying a bike lift myself. It would be tight, but I think we could fit it in the garage. Then I wouldn't have to take my mate into consideration. Having my own "work space" would mean I could leave a half dismantled bike for as long as needs be, without having to worry about whether I am getting in the way of someone else. Seems like good idea at the moment.... 2
Lucky Phil Posted October 22 Posted October 22 8 minutes ago, audiomick said: What I did today: drained the engine oil, took off the exhaust, had a look and then did a lot of pondering. What's on the list: Install a new timing sensor. Install a new timing chain, as recommended by @pete roper when I spoke to him. Looking forward a bit, do the "optimise the gear shift" thing as described by @Lucky Phil. The gear shift extender and so on are all here. Install the Roper Plate that has been here for some time. What stopped me today was realising, by actually looking at the bike, that getting the timing cover off is not as simple as I had visualised it. I was more or less thinking in terms of the small block motors, on which one can just remove the whole business at the front of the motor without any ado. I realised today that this is not the case with the V11 motor. The forward mount to the frame is in the timing cover, so removing the timing cover means immobilising the bike, in the sense that when that is done, it can't be pushed from here to there because there is a jack under the motor to support it. That is relevant because the bike is on a bike lift that belongs to one of the blokes that I share the garage with. I don't want to immobilise the V11 on his lift (again) for an indeterminate period. There is a bit of a Gumption Trap happening here, and I'm not happy about that. Question: I'm pretty sure I've seen at least one post here about how to get the timing cover off without taking the motor out of the bike. Can anyone point me to that? Apart from that, I'm seriously considering buying a bike lift myself. It would be tight, but I think we could fit it in the garage. Then I wouldn't have to take my mate into consideration. Having my own "work space" would mean I could leave a half dismantled bike for as long as needs be, without having to worry about whether I am getting in the way of someone else. Seems like good idea at the moment.... You need to "project manage" the front cover job in your situation Mick. Gather all the parts you know you'll need and the tools as well then pull the tank, support the front of the engine and remove the front frame. An hours work. Trying to "do it as you go" in your situation won't work. Phil 2
audiomick Posted October 22 Posted October 22 14 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: You need to "project manage" Yes, I think that is the crucial thing.
PJPR01 Posted October 23 Posted October 23 (edited) Nice milestone today on the speedometer...smooth with all of the fresh fluids! Successful 100 mile run...no leaks! Edited October 23 by PJPR01 5
audiomick Posted October 23 Posted October 23 (edited) 18 hours ago, Lucky Phil said: ... pull the tank, support the front of the engine and remove the front frame. An hours work.... Thanks for the confirmation that this is possible. I was wondering, after looking at the bike. It wont be just an hour's work though. 2 of the 4 screws that hold the alternator cover on are broken. If I take the timing cover off, it is not going back on until that is repaired, and I fully expect to have to buggarise around with that a bit. On top of that, I haven't done anything at all on that bike yet without having discovered something in the process that also has to be done. "Project management" is a little difficult when nasty surprises keep popping up. Edited October 23 by audiomick
docc Posted October 23 Posted October 23 With 223.000 km on my original chain and tensioner, it's hard to fathom yours needs renewed. You are seeing the timing mark scatter about under a timing light strobe?
audiomick Posted October 23 Posted October 23 (edited) 1 hour ago, docc said: You are seeing the timing mark scatter about under a timing light strobe? No, I haven't looked at that. What it does is spitting and farting at constant throttle between 2,000 and 3,000 r.p.m. , as far as I can tell back through the throttle bodies. It did that at about 2,800 from when I bought it, and the rev. range in which it happens has spread. The reason I've got the replacement timing chain is because @pete roper suggested that it would not be a bad idea at the mileage that the bike has on it. Maybe it isn't necessary, but I don't question expert advice like that. On top of that, there is no solid evidence that the 70,000 odd km on the clock are really 70,000, or might be 170,000, or maybe even 270,000. Who knows. Apart from that, as I mentioned, there are two broken screws in the timing cover. I figure, If I take it apart to do that, I can change the chain while I'm in there. Or vice versa: if I do the chain, it is a good opportunity to fix the screws. Whatever, the bike has apparently had one or more previous owners who have been satisfied with somewhat slap-dash maintenance and problem solving, although at least one was obviously keen on good solutions. I'd like to get to a point where I have the feeling that there are no more problems lurking in the wings. Edited October 23 by audiomick 1
Tomchri Posted October 23 Posted October 23 To get the chain thoughts under control, check with the strobe light as Docc said. Did replace my t cover gasket with a steel edt, and saw no reason to replace anything, 45000km Trouble in the usual rpm aerias, but running fine full trottle?If so, more TPS and tuning. It sound so much like TPS. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk 3
Scud Posted October 24 Author Posted October 24 Yesterday I put new spark plugs in the Scura and gave her a quick bath. But why new plugs? Well... @LaGrasta and I were out for a jaunt last week. I was going to introduce him to the Elfin Forest, but before we arrived at the enchanted road, the Scura started running horribly. Pulled over, found a plug wire dangling. Popped it back on. Rode through the next intersection with a smile on my face, until it popped off again. The cap wouldn't stay seated on the plug. It turns out that the plug's screw-on tip had rattled its threads right off from the inside, which I did not figure out till yesterday. First time I have ever seen this happen. The tip was lodged in the wire's boot, and yesterday I extracted it with a wood screw and pliers. So... without knowing the above, we searched for the nearest likely place to procure a plug. Apple Maps showed an auto-repair shop two blocks away in an industrial park. Rolling up, we found ourselves in a Ferrari repair shop with at least 30 stunning Italian steeds. The mechanics took pity on us, informed us that many Ferraris use motorcycle plugs, and turned their toolboxes inside out looking for a suitable fix while we ogled 4-wheeled Italian art - vintage and well-used to showroom fresh. But alas, no solution was present. So I rode it back home with the plug wire strategically tensioned to stay on. Today we tried again, but with a group of four, including @bzane. And she ran sweetly all day. Here is the original photo of the four bikes. And here is the same photo, but with 100% of the orange and 50% of the collective horsepower edited out. 7
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