V11 Shift improvement

[mikev]

Thanks to Chuck, I have a Lucky Phil Extender and plan to install it soon. 

All the pics on this thread are really helpful & interesting.  Read all 7 pages this morning, my second pass thru this thread maybe.  Not sure I *totally* understand how the shifting mechanism works but am learning more each time.  Sounds like after installing the improved extender, switching out 2 internal springs and examining some internal parts they touch are next steps.  Where does one acquire the chuckskud super spring?

Installing the Lucky Phil Extender *seems* like its a fairly simple job.  Remove 3 bolts, remove old part, install new extender, attach 3 bolts.  I *think* I can do all that without removing anything else.  Do I need to keep tension on the shifter while doing this?  Let me know if I am missing any obvious steps or anything you think might help that I need to know before I try the install.

 

[docc]

It would be a good time to groom, align, clean, and lubricate the entire external shift mechanism. Clean, grease, and adjust the tension on the shifter pivot bolt. Make sure the connecting rod length holds the shift extender parallel to the arm at the gearbox and the lock nuts are tight. Be certain the shifter lever does not strike the frame side plate on the downstroke . . .

For the Chuckstud (yeah, I read it like that the first time through. ) superspring, contact super- @Scud:

 

[cowtownchemist]

I installed the Lucky Phil extender on my V11 yesterday and the shifting feels quite supurb. 

I do still now and then feel a little resistance in the upshift from 2nd to 3rd.  Not often, only like once or twice on a ride.  So, sometime this riding season will re-work the shift selector as described and install my recently acquired 'super spring.'

[gstallons]

The bolt that acts as a pivot might be rusted in the bore of the shifter. The nut on the end is a locknut and the frame is threaded holding the shifter in place . Back off the nut a couple of turns and back off the bolt one revolution . If the shifter tries to move with the bolt it is rusted in place . Remove the bolt and lubricate everything and reinstall . Test it and see if it is better.

[cowtownchemist]

Are you referring to the bolt circled in purple or green? (or somewhere else)  I did remove the entire shift lever and the bolt circled in purple, cleaned and lubed during the install of the shift extender.  I have not made any adjustments to the bolt/mechanism circled in green yet.

[Tomchri]

Job done. As close to the picture as possible.

Cheers Tom.

[gstallons]

The Allen head bolt in purple is the one you want lubricated well . When I did my rigging , I got a l.h. threaded rod end and a stud that had l.h. and r.h. threads so I could adjust the shift lever height. A great improvement. I think I got this stuff from Midwest Controls ?

[gstallons]

Make sure you get everything as clos to 90degree angles and the same angle to get the best shift possible. A VERY old crane mechanic stressed the importance of this to me and I do it as much as possible.

[po18guy]

I had problems with the lever sticking when downshifting and not returning to center. Suspecting the worst, I peered around and found that I had reversed the bolt on the front spherical joint on the shift linkage rod. This caused the nut (now on the inside) to foul the trans case just enough to stop the lever from returning. So, I pulled it all off, cleaned and lubed everything, ran the bolt with the head toward the inside with the nut and washer on the outside and happy shifting resumed.

I also placed a thin 8mm mylar washer between the inner end of the shift lever pivot and the threaded tab on the frame. A good slathering or Mobil1 synth grease and a washer and locknut on the right side of the frame tab keep it all properly snug. As usual, access to install the washer and locknut required an interesting combo of nut and washer taped to the socket in conjunction with various wobbly extensions. A few bodily contortions later, it's all happily in place now. No bloody knuckles, a personal best.

[MotoKnee]

 

Despite assuring there are no issues with the external shifter parts, I still get occasional false neutrals or other funky shifting problems. So, with a heavy heart I pulled the shifter cover to see what's what.

Before disassembly, it appears the detent roller could benefit from a tweak and that the eccentric adjustment was done with a yardstick. Downshifts and upshifts bring different points on the shift selector close to the adjuster, will set the tighter one to spec.

Will upgrade to the super spring and smooth out the recommended surfaces in search of Japanese shifter delight.

I'm sure there will be questions as things come apart.

 

[Pressureangle]

20 hours ago, MotoKnee said:

 

Despite assuring there are no issues with the external shifter parts, I still get occasional false neutrals or other funky shifting problems. So, with a heavy heart I pulled the shifter cover to see what's what.

Before disassembly, it appears the detent roller could benefit from a tweak and that the eccentric adjustment was done with a yardstick. Downshifts and upshifts bring different points on the shift selector close to the adjuster, will set the tighter one to spec.

Will upgrade to the super spring and smooth out the recommended surfaces in search of Japanese shifter delight.

I'm sure there will be questions as things come apart.

 

Er...somebody tell me what this 'adjuster' adjusts? It looks like a backstop for the pawl arm, where mine has a roll pin. 
The external adjuster on the newer style doors adjusts the center spring perch under the shaft plate, yes?

Edit; I get to look stupid. My own door does have a centering adjustment-which obviously was not adjusted. Must be failure to verify, lack of sleep and the 98* garage. 
I still need someone to explain the 'backstop' adjuster as I don't see a purpose for it. 
Maybe it'll come to me in a dream. Sheesh. All for naught.
Oh, and apologize to MG. 

Edited June 19 by Pressureangle

[Pressureangle]

Ok in reply to my redacted embarassment above, let's go through shift adjustment. Which even the early doors have. 

The point of the adjustment is to have the pawl evenly spaced in both directions over the pins. This is accomplished with the external flat-headed screwbolt next to the shift shaft. As stated elsewhere and many times, this is not an adjustment you can do correctly on the bike, there is very little latitude outside of 'correct'. The screw can be installed with the eccentric either up or down, but beginning with the eccentric 'down' or farthest from the shift shaft gives the least sensitivity to the adjustment. The adjustment itself is very fine, the entire range of success about 1/16th of a turn so you need 1/32nd of a turn accuracy. 
I've tried to show and represent the goal and pieces as clearly as possible.

As for actually measuring the travel in both directions, you could set up in a vise, with calipers, and an extra set of hands to measure exactly but your eyes are calibrated sufficiently to move the shift plate back and forth to feel the pins in the pawl. Be sure to mark the slot in the screw before tightening the locknut to be sure it doesn't move while you tighten. 
If your cap nut looks like mine, get a shiny new one. 
 

Edit; don't even bother alone, without a vice. It isn't that easy. A magnetic dial indicator to tip the end of the pawl would be the cat's meow. 

 

Edited June 20 by Pressureangle

[Pressureangle]

2 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

Ok
If your cap nut looks like mine, get a shiny new one. 

Not as easy as it sounds. Hmph.
 

https://belmetric.com/acorn-nut-stainless-fine-thread-din-1587/?sku=NA12X1.25SS

[Pressureangle]

On 6/18/2025 at 12:29 AM, MotoKnee said:

 

Despite assuring there are no issues with the external shifter parts, I still get occasional false neutrals or other funky shifting problems. So, with a heavy heart I pulled the shifter cover to see what's what.

Before disassembly, it appears the detent roller could benefit from a tweak and that the eccentric adjustment was done with a yardstick. Downshifts and upshifts bring different points on the shift selector close to the adjuster, will set the tighter one to spec.

Will upgrade to the super spring and smooth out the recommended surfaces in search of Japanese shifter delight.

I'm sure there will be questions as things come apart.

 

Given what I've posted above about adjustment, and if it's not too late, I'd be interested in knowing how your pawl is adjusted. Mine was so far out the pawl wouldn't fall over the pin upon release, certainly causing failed shifts though I'm not certain in which direction. 

[Pressureangle]

On 6/18/2025 at 12:29 AM, MotoKnee said:

eccentric adjustment was done with a yardstick.

 

I think I figured out the whyfor on this adjustment. 
I figure it's insurance in case the pawl doesn't fall all the way down on a shift- if the pawl hook is hanging on the pin just enough to pull the wheel it will roll up and off as the wheel turns. When it crosses this adjuster it will be forced down as it passes, so the hook can't jump off the pin mid-shift. 
Not having one, I can't know how to set it, but I guess I'd set it with a couple to a few thousandths at the closest point that passes during normal operation.  

Is the adjustment spec in the service manual anywhere? 

Edited June 19 by Pressureangle