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A little information..... I have owned a number of V 11 MG in my time, but never have I had this much trouble tuning one like I am with this Centauro. I have completed the usual tuning sequence, and replaced the TPS with a known good unit from another bike. With weather cooperating today, I went out on a road test and discovered the followin: 1. Idle is good once warm. The "choke" function works properly while cold. 2. Cruising under light throttle AND below 2000 rpm, the engine runs smoothly at any speed. 3. Accellerating from a stop or from any rolling speed or throttle opening is smooth and as powerful as expected. 4. Steady state cruising above 2000-2500 rpm through 4500 (that's as far as I dared go) precipitates extremely rough runnin, and I mean birdering on violent, at any speed in any gear. To me, the common issue is engine load/throttle position. This critically includes engine rpm (over 2000 rpm). I thought this pointed to the TPS but a new one had no effect on any of this. Conversation with Will Creedon suggested enrichening the ECU potentiometer setting. I found that ¼ turn increments, all the way to full rich did not positively affect the issue. (The last 90* of the available 180*, negatively affected idle and low speed running.) Does this information stimulate anyone's diagnostic ideas?

So just to follow up... I reconditioned my PC545 twice. Standing voltage was within spec, BUT it only put out 80CCA... battery is toast. Full admission: i keep ALL my bikes on a Deltran Battery Tender, I got 6 years out of this battery. I checked my main ground on the transmission, and it definitely needed some cleaning and deoxit. Cleaned the yellow wires plug to the regulator with deoxit also. My regulator has a case ground wire that uses a ground on the frame. And my charging light does not come on with engine running or not. Plan is to replace the battery and see what the voltages are at idle and higher, then figure out the charging light... stay tuned!! Could the knackered PC545 battery be the reason for my lower-than-expected reading at the battery for regulator ou put? like loading it down? Deciding if a Motobatt is the way to go other than the higher cost PC545 if its more "needy" to keep charged when not riding.

OT at the time nobody liked it but it always makes me a bit sad that this wasn’t made! The path not taken… and the 4cylinder engine.

Yes it was a big load of BS decades ago. Now light vehicles need a WOF 3 years from new, then annually. There was a 6 month inspection for things first licensed before 2000, but that was changed to annually last month.

Didn't get to work on it, but compared the first TB screws to the second- obviously, the first set was a production error where someone didn't go deep enough with the peen and went back for a second bite, but still not very strongly. The second TB screws are definitely going to have to be ground off as they're very well smashed over.

Surely thats not still a requirement? Edit....AI tells me it's every year for vehicles <5YO and every 6 months for vehicles >5YO. Bureaucratic madness and just gouging vehicle owners. Phil

Warrant of fitness every six months in NZ is the biggest load of b/s I've come across..... I know we had a lot of old pommie cars back then ( I had a 52 Morris Oxford ) but it was still bloody stupid! Even more so when you consider the size of the place and the population! Cheers Ps I bet that old Morrie is still going....

Uh.... can you look at one nearest to it ? Remove it and measure the length & diameter of the screw and get one . I am not sure if I am looking at the correct fastener in my parts catalog , so go the route of remove and check the bolt dimensions.

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Interesting content. He basically explains Private Equity until 4:50, then starts talking about it in the motorcycle industry after that. I didn't know Dianese and Revzilla are PE owned. The damage to companies caused by short-term profit seeking is not limited to PE-back organizations, but IMO there is perhaps a higher concentration there. While I don't think it's fair to call out PE as a category as bad, it is fair to speculate on whether the new PE owner will make good or bad decisions with the brand. And then he says Indian is a "heritage" brand. This may be an unpopular opinion, but I don't think today's Indian has much of heritage. Maybe they have some respect for the original company, but Indian has gone out of business several times. Today's Indian motorcycle company has nothing to do with the original company with the exception of having bought the intellectual property rights (name, etc.) after string of prior IP owners failed. That's not a legacy. Same with Triumph and other brands that have been rebooted by investors who acquired the brand name. And another thing, I found this guys's video making style disturbing. Talking with his hands while controlling the motorcycle with one hand on the bars. Man, talk about distracted driving... Good on him if he can do it, but I would have a hard time paying attention to traffic and the road while narrating a video.

There going to need it

Anyone got a part number for the bolt used to secure the main ground on the back of the transmission case?

Maybe Indian can get a bail out from Argentina?

From someone who owns an Indian, the brand that just got sold to private equity

Docc…look at the torque number 🫣

274 pounds with 80 horsepower . . . That would be like a V11 with 160 hp . . .

⚡️Stark Varg SM ⚡️ 🔋 or 🪫❓

The quality of Victorian vehicles these days is really good. It's very rare to see an obviously dodge car which begs the question why does NSW continue with the yearly inspections on +5YO vehicles. NSW vehicles from what I experience being here regularly are just as good as Vic vehicles. It's the old problem, once you have a bureaucratic creation in place it's almost impossible to wind it back. The headlight ON for bikes is one of the few exceptions I can think of. The annual roadworthy for vehicle >5years old in NSW was a PITA but nowhere near the PITA the German TUV requirements are. Phil

I was very surprised to find the screws so lightly secured. I'll try to remember to photo the other TB. The bushings came out fairly easily, a 9mm tap halfway in and a punch from the other side. The new ones seemed a bit tighter in the bores, but not enough for concern. Only the one bushing on the bottom RH side showed any perceptible wear, but I have them and I'm there. The seals were the big shock, they were loose on the shaft and in the bores. I used the *very* expensive ones listed in Lucky Phil's thread, iirc they're about $12 each. I searched for a couple hours and found zero else available, I could have put together 2-3 purchases of old Yamaha stock but these are viton and should last the life.

My 1100 Sport came with a lithium Exide battery, a few hundred grams, but saw red charging light a couple of times, never after installed a AGM battery. Just me, but still don’t thrust lithium. cheers Tom.

Probably thru rumors, think l saw NZ are really getting into all the new terrible radar systems available today. And l thought it was basically free speed between sheep’s and kangaroos. The misses said last night watching GP training, what about going to Phillip lsland, hhmmm only 16000km flight distance. Dreams for free Or. Cheers Tom.

My bolts on the main shaft was hit by something big. Had to grind to get the bolts out. Grinding the shaft flat does a thing with the airflow, a smart German guy mentioned. 1 Very stubborn bushing to remove, otherwise wise not hard. It’s a Guzzi l know, but l like them best possible tuned. Did you use Yamaha seals or. Cheers Tom.

Back to work...Throttle body day Thanks to Lucky Phil's thread [ link ] this is easy enough for anyone to do at home. I didn't think to take a lot of pictures before starting, but the bottom of the throttle shafts were DEEP with what looked like the bottom of a '74 Ford 460 oil pan. My throttle blade screws weren't peened or center punched, they had simply been hit once with a chisel, looked like; turning them out was easy enough probably could have without damaging anything. I used a set of duckbill pliers to squeeze the end together a bit while not flattening the threads. Came out surprisingly easy though probably won't go in as well. Certainly going to touch them with loctite going back, may try new screws if the hardware has the correct pitch in brass. Went to the very back of the 'special tools' drawer and drug out a 5/16" valve guide driver (8mm) a perfect fit for the bushings. Easy to feel when centered, a couple medium whacks and when the seal shoulder stopped, stuck the old bushing on to drive the new ones home to the shoulder. Easy peasy. The old seals were so dead they actually fell out as I pulled the shaft. Finish tomorrow, everything soaking in Boraxo/dishsoap to soften the road armor covering the linkage arms and TB bodies. Upside-damn-down again, WTF Turn your head lol

I believe it should. If I remember correctly, you should be able to check whether the light is working by pulling the light blue wire off the regulator and connecting it to battery minus. 12.8 at Idle is, as far as I know, probably okay. If it never gets above 13.6V, that's a bit low. Before you decide that the regulator is not ok, go through the wiring loom and check and clean all of the connections that have even remotely something to do with the charging system.