docc

I'm not sure what you mean by TPS at 245mV. The two standards are fully closed plate at 150 mV (+/- 10 mV) and idle at 5.10-5.35 (some like it higher). Where are you setting the 245mV?

Have you simply bled the clutch fluid? They really benefit from fresh fluid about once a year. Ergonomically, you can adjust the lever so it is closer to the grip and rotate the assembly such that your wrist is not tipped up or down, but is straight along the back of the forearm to the back of the hand. Moving your sitting position closer to the tank takes pressure off the wrists and hands. These are the simplest things I think you could do to make an immediate difference.

And, so, the eBay bob-job swamper sells for $5,232.41. My well maintained Sport must be worth $11,900 again.

With all the road closures in the mountains, I think we'll all come to the niece's wedding. Oh, yeah, the famlee's gonna love this! And the next time you say "I'm going riding with 'some guys,'" they'll be more *enthusiastic.* (If only you just don't bring the whole lot around to the reception again.) Let us know if we can help you out . . .

For sure. The way I came up with 32mm drop on Bob's Sport was to measure the width of the clip-on which is ordinarily below the clamp and add the 3mm thickness of the cap. I should subtracted the thickness instead since his is flush with the top of his clip-ons. That still makes for 29mm and a whopping big drop! If the fork springs are original and the rider is over, say, 185 pounds, the turn in must be very abrupt with some tendency for wobble. I had tried mine at 10mm (+ the stock 3mm), but found it more stable and reliable on turn in at 8mm (including the cap thickness). Bob's used to the big drop, but most of the rest of us might find it like Mr. Toad's Wild Ride!

Looks like your reference voltage from relay2 is correct (You mean you shut the headlight off at the switch, yes?) Just to confirm: Voltage from the alternator seems correct, and the bike starts and runs. Headlight, horn, brake light are good. Tachometer does not function. But do the charge/oil and hi-beam warning lights come on with the ignition switch?

Slavo, I agree with Roy that there must be a short in the harness somewhere. What is the voltage on the Red/black wire? Will she charge if you apply battery voltage to that wire into the regulator (applying battery voltage into the harness at the red/black may only induce the short!)

No crap to give! Good news, no mouse nests! Check TPS Set-Up and Throttle Balance Tuning for a (relatively) concise TPS/throttle body balance procedure. Waiting to hear how this next step turns out!

Of course, I secretly want this bike. It reminds me of this one:

Still sounds like some stiffer fork springs would be good medicine. More damping won't change the sag or the dive. Check that front sag (it's easy with the zip tie). If it's more than 38-40mm, new springs are the answer.

Increasing the air bleed screws, the CO trim, and the valve adjustment may all increase RPM at idle, but without opening the throttle plate angle (which is read by the Throttle Position Sensor). This is why the valves should be adjusted (to "world spec") and the CO trim should be zeroed (by Axone or VDSTS) when the baseline TPS is set at fully closed right throttle body before establishing the idle TPS setting and opening the air screws back up. Then ther air screws should be closed to establish initial Throttle Body balance off idle (like 2000-3000 rpm) before setting the air screws out. Some say: use the air screws to balance TB at idle, book says 1/2 turn both sides. My Sport likes a full turn each side. On top of all that (and there's more), your white face tach is a liar . . . (shocking!!)

That is my cranking voltage also (4 year old Hawker). When my stator wire broke, the V11 ran for maybe 20 minutes, but then became very unhappy. Slavomir, I'll have to go all the way back through your thread and try to understand better your trouble. Are all other Relay 2 functions normal? (headlight,horn, warn lights, brake light and tachometer?)

It is as you say. The meter shows 156k Ohms with the leads disconnected, even unplugged from the meter. Must be internal to the meter itself. Thanks again for all the help.

Or a mouse nest in the airbox?

How could a shaft's alignment marks have gotten off a half tooth? Twisted somehow?

Dan, your '02 'long frame' LeMans has the clip-ons mounted above the clamp, yes? Is that 14mm the stock positition just allowing room to attach the clip-ons? (The RedFrames came with clip-ons under the clamp and only 3mm extended above the clamp - just the fork cap in other words.)

Sorry, Roy, I misunderstood what you meant by "dash lights." Definitely, the Warning Lights (except for the neutral light) come through Relay 2. I checked my running voltage at 2000 rpm: 13.5vDC. Charging stops when I pull Relay 2 (12.4vDC), so whatever that wire does, it must have voltage from Relay 2 for the regulator to charge. With no horns, headlamps or tach, a problem at Relay 2 would still explain the low charge. All of Raz's and Roy's tests are right on the money, and worth doing. For the simplicity of replacing a relay or repairing its connections, I would certainly try that first, get the lamps on and tach working and recheck the charging voltages.

The instrument illumination is on another circuit (Fuse 6) with no relay. I've been told the regulator wire to Relay 2 is a "voltage reference." I suppose if there is no reference voltage, the regulator may not trigger charging. Sounds like it would be worth getting the relay fixed first and see if charging is affected.

That is true,the RedFrame steering angle is lower (maybe 0.5 degree) and the trail is less, and the wheel base is shorter. But also, the later frames have more bracing both forward and with-in the subframe for the swingarm. The later rear wheel width was increased to 5.5" and the front forks/clip-ons were changed as well as mounting the headlamp/instruments on frame instead of on forks. All this in an effort to reduce weave and vibration. Oh, and notably, the early RedFrames were delivered with very soft, pointy Pirelli Diablo Corsa tires. I don't know if later bikes had more substantial springs, but the early RedFrames were pretty soft.

That would be two tricks, no?

Assuming the Sporty is "well sorted," one the Beemers could give up a nefarious rear drive . . . You're keeping a shift spring on a chain around your neck for proper V11 VooDoo?

I've moved this discussion to a new thread since it's important and didn't need to clutter the TPS thread it came from. Good stuff! Carry on!

We could probably help you get it sorted. Those failures point to Relay 2 (second from the front). I'll bet your brake light also will not come on, nor the hi-beam /charging/oil warning lights. Take the seat off and give relay2 the wiggle test.

I presume your man cut new spacers for the forks (he added some millimeters?) and cranked your rear preload up a bit as well. What do your sag numbers look like now? Mmmm, that GB, it's a little sweety. Soon-to-be-vintage, too!

Picking the back up 10mm will make a noticeable difference in ride. Weighting the front is a good thing and is likely to give you quicker turn in and less high speed weave. Resetting your front and rear sag should be next on your list assuming you've got the correct fork springs for your weight. You're gonna like this!