Baldini

2002 Scura 28k miles - wrinkle paint is fine - no bubbling. guess I'm the lucky one.

Docc, Have you checked UJ alignment? I had v similar failure. Don't trust the factory paint marks, that supposedly show alignment. Mine were wrong, & in fact shaft collar/UJ's were welded so as to be impossible to align correctly. Roper was always banging on about stresses set up by wrongly aligned UJs. KB

Alternative clutches: RAM - Single plate kit w alloy flywheel. Transkontinental - no longer available I think. Lightened stock flywheel & ring gear (u using a starter motor?) What power does your engine make? Is clutch OK? I have had no experience with v powerful motors/stock clutch, but I'm surprised you can't get it to work. You probably know the following people? if not just Google search - all are experienced w fast Guzzis & could help: mtiberio ran Transkontinental: see http://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/transkontinental-clutch.6393 Pete Roper, Martin Harvey (Australia), Todd Egan (Guzzitech), mike Rich (USA). Amadeo Castellani (Raceco UK - now works w cars - but massive knowledge), Jim Blomley (think u can get him at Quill exhausts) (UK). Peter Hindley raced a 1100 Sport on IOM a few years back: http://www.guzzipower.com/TT/HindleyTT.html Full of admiration for your project! I've done a fair few IOM laps on my old Tonti, but never raced there. The mountain is a real test for breather system: mine failed big time one year, delighting my Fireblade mate who figured I'd finally killed the old thing when I disappeared in a cloud of smoke... just cleaned it up & carried on... Good luck. KB

May be a mismatch between Scura pushrod & new clutch/centre button. When I replaced the stock Scura clutch w a RAM unit, I had to use original centre button as RAM one wouldn't work (centre was too deep). They are different depths, so pushrod was effectively too short to operate the clutch.

Hope the rider is recovered. What a ******* mess. I think emry covers it - learn to ride off road to develop ability & understand bike's behaviours & capabilities at extremes. Practice; take some lessons; ride to your abilities. Seen plenty of riders fall off cos they weren't prepared to lean it further.Trust your tyres (presuming you have decent tyres). I never was taught to "countersteer" - it just came naturally when learning to ride - never thought about it. Lean the bike over & it'll turn - I never really think of steering a bike with the bars - although I know counter steering initiates the turn, it's of a piece with shifting bodyweight & other inputs.

Scud, If you're in Stelvio area, you might be interested in popping in to see the World Cup Downhill (mountain bike) in Val di Sol, v close by. DH Racing Saturday. It's an impressive show. Have a great trip

02 Scura: My OEM shock spring is 85 (it's marked 1091-26/85 L511). Can't confirm wt of OEM fork springs, but presumed also 85. Stock springs F&R were way too soft for me. I'm 175-180lbs (UK - dunno is that same pounds as you have in Oz or USA?). I replaced with 100 both ends, which were fine, but I'd probably've been better off w 110. Here's an old thread on this: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6534&hl=%2Bohlins+%2Bsprings+%2Bpart+%2Bnumbers+%2Bstiffer

I think brake pedal benefits from a return spring. I used a bit of old inner tube, but as I recall, others have done job more elegantly.

Scud: Steel Flywheel???

I have a T3 based bike with 950 Spada (flat top) pistons using LM11 heads/36mm carbs & I love it. It's real low compression, but the upside of that is: it's real relaxing to ride. And forgiving. Pulls like a train - well, a small train.

Further to Guzzimeister's post - Scura ate a couple of rear wheel bearings & I found bearing spacer measured short. I think stock spacer can distort if axle nut is overtightened. Guzzi give a tightening torque for spindle of 120Nm - to be measured "at the housing side". Why would torque measure different at either side - friction through the assembly? I made a stronger spacer. Phil - if bearings are driven home in the housing by pressing on outer race only, then if spacer is too long, inner races would be misaligned, same as if spacer were too short?

One thing to watch for when pumping the forks to get all the old oil out: there's a little valve needle that'll pop right out of the long, small-bore damper tube & get lost on the floor if you aren't careful - watch out for it.

czakky, for alignment see post #9 Regardless of factory paint marks, the driveshaft that came on my Scura could never be properly aligned. Best I can get it UJs is about 5degrees off parallel. If you move it to the next spline to correct, then it's 5degrees off the other way! (I'm guessing measurements - if the splines are at 16* then mine must be more like 8* out either way?). Whatever, it appears to me that one or both of the driveshaft halves have been attached to UJ at the wrong angle. As I recall, this has been discussed before here. Then, someone went to the trouble of cutting & re-welding the parts to correct. My new, very expensive driveshaft looks to be a couple of degrees out, at best. Pete, can I assume that UJs in parallel plane is ideal & failing that, the closer to parallel the better? So 2degree out is better than 5? ie. is it worth remaking my new driveshaft to be bang-on? Cheers. Happy & peaceful Christmas to all. KB

The UJ's should sit in the same plane - so if you look at drive shaft end to end, UJ surfaces are parallel. I'd post a pic but I dunno how anymore (does the pic have to be already on line?) Does this help? (Driveshaft w UJ either end viewed from above) > XXXXXX XXXXXX XXXX _________________________________ XXXX XXXX O_________________________________O XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXXXX XXXXXX

The flywheel is the part that breaks, yes. Camn, that figures - I suspect that Scura & Tenni clutches are same, & that RM had (at least some) different components. Some parts in the Scura clutch are stamped RAM, some not. Parts differ from the RAM aftermarket clutch. Story I've heard is that Guzzi sourced some parts of the Scura clutch elsewhere. I've never seen an RM clutch, but I wonder if it is a complete RAM unit. Docc, in my parts book (date of issue 2001, covering V11 Sport & Rosso Mandello), those numbers are transposed: RM flywheel is 01 06 70 40, V11 Sport (steel) one is 04 06 70 00.