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The aging human organism is not the only thing that doesn't work like it used to.

buy quick before Mopar fires the seller for lunchboxing those relays!

Asked NAPA for a case of carb cleaner, they came back with about 8 cans of 'Mac's' carb cleaner. Who cares, right? So I'm working on the '89 Mille GT. Had the sump off, tried to clean it with Mac's. No go- simply doesn't cut oil and light, if old, mung. Bleah. Go to the carbs last night, been sitting some time so plenty of varnish. Put all the bits in a cup and make a puddle of Mac's. Doesn't touch the varnish or deposits. Bleah. Then, suddenly, right before my eyes, I watch the o-rings and inlet valve tips expand and disintegrate. Oh, happy day- carb cleaner that doesn't clean anything and destroys carburetor parts in less than 30 seconds. Inlet valve assemblies are $25 each. Just a 'beware'. Don't try to save a penny or a minute using this crap. I returned all of it, not that they cared at all.

Sorry you had that experience, but thanks for the heads up. I typically trust NAPA, but will avoid that product and stick with Gumout or CRC. +1 on Phil's recommendation for an ultrasonic cleaner. I have a small one and have used it with Simple Green, CLR, Purple Power, and diesel fuel. For small parts, put the solvent and part in a plastic bag, then fill the ultrasound with water an immerse the bag in the water.

After recently rebuilding 3 throttle body sets I use one of these. I've 2 one large 20Litre one and a small one for, well small stuff. Forget the toxic spray and soak junk these work perfectly esp for things like throttle bodies. https://www.amazon.com.au/Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Digital-Durable-Stainless/dp/B08R73QMYR/ref=asc_df_B08R73QMYR/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463522662873&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=803062948571161468&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9071372&hvtargid=pla-1161471464591&psc=1 Here's what a 25 year old second hand covered in grunge throttle body looks like after 30min in the ultrasonic tank. Plus all the internal passages are clean as well. Ciao

There may be hope. From the listing, which is a little confusing, but he is selling lots of 5 for some reason (heh heh...)

Hi, I realise that misfires are very common forum fodder, I have read as much as I can before posting, I apologise in advance.. It's a 2003 sport, still with external pump and filter. What I thought was a random misfire at idle when hot is actually a persistent misfire on the left cylinder. Originally the valves were tight, I have tried the valves at .004 and .006, now set to .006 and .008 with no real difference. I tried new plugs (gapped) and I have checked the leads for corrosion. I have just done a TPS reset. It was at 85mv fully closed, it is now at 157mv. Air bypass screws are 1 turn out Idle is at 1300rpm On idle if I go to the back of the bike, the right hand exhaust gives a consistent rythmic slap if you put your hand gently over the can. The left hand side is weaker and faltering, kind of "off beat". At the tachometer needle kind of wobbles a bit at idle, if you rev it to 3k you can hear misses and the tacho jumps around a bit more. There are no backfires at all. Can I test the coils on the bike without taking the tank off again? I know these threads never get resolved, and I appreciate that misfire diagnosis through a forum is not the most realistic expectation, I am just at my wit's end, and I have probably missed something. Thanks

Or, if the breather return hose completely fails while on the freeway, the oil covers the back of the motor and drips onto the exhaust. The resulting cloud of smoke alerted a police officer 2 miles away. He pulled me over, but let me continue to an Auto Zone nearby. Fortunately, the oil will drip onto the side of the rear tire, but not on the tread center.

The quality of rubber used making the hose . You will notice there is not even thread woven into the hose ! You can blame MG , the vendor that makes the hose , whoever you want . It is NOT Japanese (QUALITY) rubber .

Yes it looked exactly the same, I added a hose clamp where the breather hose joins the airbox, as the hose is loose I didn't have a good replacement. It won't stop the oil INSIDE the airbox leaking out around the plastic intake trumpet though!

Are these two current threads about the same thing? Left side airbox crankcase vent oil accumulation that drizzles out and runs down the left side of the gearbox? @Grim, what does that junction look like on your airbox connection to the throttle body?

When I was chasing oil leaks through my "bell housing", I first looked to fit the "Ford coolant hose" that is similar and can be fitted, but the valued consensus was that it would swell and fail. So, I sourced the correct Moto Guzzi vent hose / "breather pipe" 30 157 400 (from MG Cycle). I saved my original as it was not cracked and not leaking in 2014 at about 90,000 miles/ 145.000 km. (My leaks were "elsewhere")

If the breather hose is original, consider replacing it. I don't know what they made those things of but don't trust an old one. They don't hold up to oil and heat. My '02 was shot by 2012 and my '00 needs replacing now.

Grim,,, going deeper are usually rewarding , taking care of the gal, minor details, good. Cheers tom.

That is a good thing..

Spent a day taking the bike apart, cleaned the top gearbox mount areas and I can't see any cracks, all looks good. I traced the oil to the bottom of the airbox, running down from the base of the loose breather hose, then down inner left an getting all over the general area. I should add that oil has also run down the inside of the airbox on the left hand side and seeped out around the intake rubber, adding to the general oilyness in the area. Anyway, good to have a cleanup with the tank and airbox off the bike

Yeah, like, "Hey, hey, bud - gotch'yer relays rat'chere. Need a sprang? You needs a sprang. Gotcha covered, bud . . ."

Dry outside....oil trail starts inside the airbox (at the front) where the tube enters. Oil trail exits the air box about the external grommet surrounding the LH boot. Just to see, I'll check the LH/RH boot inner surface and engine interface for residue comparison.

My 2003 Black framed burgundy Sport is one of my favorites, the ride is sublime, and it feels just a tad more planted on high speed sweepers compared to the Red frames. I guess that’s the extra fame bracing of the black frame

And a Griso

Just following up... I took my bike for it's MOT (uk annual test) today, not sure what I was expecting, but it feels like a new bike. The sheer amount of tinkering has (I think) beaten everything into submission. No misfire on either cyclinder at idle No hot idle cough or splutter Smooth pull all the way to redline Can hold at part throttle (anywhere) and it sits happily and smoothly Drinks all the fuel.... So, all in all, doing all the tune up stuff, again and again until you get it right, makes a wonderful difference... Had an entire family stop and marvel as I rolled past, kids shouting nice bike, I put this down to my wonderful rattle can paint job.....

That's definitely a Docc quote to remember

At least we know why you're mad. Some people are mad, and no one knows why . . .

I have yet to test compression, I will try to get that done. The spark plugs read 8300 Ohms on the right, and 7900 Ohms on the left, is this cause for concern (this is with brand new plugs). I set the throttle stops as per the feeler gauge method and then connected the rod, the balance was off, but could be brought level by using the air screws. This did not work when winding them out the same amount, but through doing each side individually I could get the vacuum level to sync up. All the way through this the right hand cylinder is just chuffing away beautifully, never faltering, and the left is stumbling away. I did a little video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeR9KYqC2pA

After you have cleaned trottlebody's and AFC screws, I woud take OF the trottle linkage, and check TPS,,, like 3 times more, 157mv,, It's V imortant... so I've learned. Then I use a feeler gauge 0.05mm behind each trottle stop screws, and then each screws around a quartof a turn.. Adjust the trottle linkage with the white knob so it fits perfect on the trottle body. She can easily have misfires on one side if this is not correct. My Greenie did. This doesn't cost anything,, ah well a few beer's. IPA is of big help. Plugwires 5000ohm. Basicly every elec connnection needs TLC. It does feel V good when she is behaving again, Yu'l find it, cheers tom.

Rattlers around the house or in the garage 2-3 times per year. Unfortunately, the last one killed our dog.