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Well, unfortunately was unable to pick up some of the planned stops on the way to Cedar Vale this year...I chose not to go based on the terrible weather forecasted up and back and no real desire to camp in the rain either, glad I stayed behind but sorry to miss the rally in Cedar Vale, always one of my favorites. But I did manage to pick up 4 more stops this week...Cuero, Edna, Blessing and Galveston...Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I can get Jefferson, Gladewater and Terrell and complete the 25 stops. I had considered also heading to Big Bend and doing a nice big loop back, but weather forecast (as it is actually now as well) put a damper on those plans...so will do that at a future date...although it's going to get hotter and hotter the longer I wait. Out and about on the Griso for these stops...really enjoying it...next runs hopefully on the Scura.

I had the same problem, last year, same question; @docc suggested to use talcum powder to find out the origin of the leak. I posted pics in the thread somewhere. It works. Replaced the timing cover gasket with the metal one; the one installed on my 2004 V11 Le Mans was stock, and paper. You could visually identify where the seal was broken.

i've got this Daytona...

From MG Cycle, the rear Brembo "carbon ceramic"/ blue back GF were $26.43US/pair in October 2022. That same order, the front Brembo "sinter"/ red back SHH (that I had to take off immediately) were $34.67US. The front Brembo (OE)/ black back FF from OPP Racing I just received were $44.50US. YMMV I just rode some miles to do a bedding exercise on those new pads and they have great feel, no excessive dusting, and don't sound like a lathe rolling the sport up onto the lift.

That happens in every single community... except the Ferrari folks. Unless they are talking about the Daytona they bought in 1981 for $5000. We want the prices to be low so we can buy more. But we want the prices to be high when we sell. Fickle are we.

I just got the clearance for sKSR. Unfortunately no Sunday for me. Looking forward to seeing everyone. Will most likely be on the cruddy old “bus bike”.

I goofed, didn't look at this illustrated parts breakdown for the alternator prior to pulling the front cover otherwise I would have definitely replaced the #9 oring. I realized the oring was present when I was going back together and the oring offered a slight drag while sliding onto the shaft. Anyway, if you're pulling the front cover, replace the oring imho. Also, my spacer did not have a chamfer for an additional oring but a flange, the only way to remove the spacer is to remove the crank seal too or pull the cover. ... both after stator/rotor removal of course. FWIW, I have about 200 miles on my Lemans since timing cover gasket replacement, went back with a "genuine" Guzzi metal/composite gasket and no leaks detected nor was gasket sealer used upon installation. This gasket lined up perfect with bolt holes & bosses. The same distortion/misaligned bolt holes I encountered with an aftermarket composite gasket I have also observed with a paper/fiber gasket from another dealer which leads me to think that whomever is making "knock off" gaskets used a poor example for a template. Art

Riding in the wet decreases the visibility a lot, and on top of it, we also become a lot less visible too. If I get caught in a shower, I usually ride behind a truck because they usually are better seen than we are.

That's not a Ferrari! Doh!

My rear pads were really worn so I got a pair from MGCycle. They were less expensive than the fronts. EBC-GG. They claim low disc wear...we'll see.

Note to @Joe . . . What with inaugural SpineRaider @Bill Hagan coming, @Skip coming all the way from Michigan, and now longtime SpineRaider @Josh bringing the "Bus Bike ", no doubt you have shared a quite good idea* . . . . Shoot, even @gstallons thinks this is a good idea!

This is AWESOME news!

You should search this site for Valpolini. There's some useful comments about these hi zoot metal reinforced gaskets, especially in relation to the timing chest cover. I asked Valpolini in Italy directly for some gaskets, but they declined to send to me. Luckily the NZ dealer could supply. You should have less trouble being nextdoor to them. As for removing the alternator rotor, your biggest problem will be undoing the nut. Locking the crank using a big screwdriver in the bell housing porthole worked for me. Then a couple of pry bars can gently slide the rotor forward. Conventional wisdom says keep the rotor in the stator when off the motor to reduce loss of magnetism.

Glad I could be of assistance @docc Might be worth a post in the "Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts". Along with the ones you mentioned from MG Cycles. And the ones @motoguzznix recommended.

The bike is a 2002 Le Mans, wrinkly paint on the motor, 15 M ECU, 43mm forks with rebound damping on both legs. I've added the date to my profile. I haven't had a closer look at the leak yet. What I noticed was "very well oiled" on the right hand side of the sump. No oil above the sump spacer. I can't say how the left hand side looks. The oil on the sump that I observed would be, perhaps, consistent with a leak low down on the right hand side of the timing cover, or perhaps towards the front out of the sump spacer gasket. I'm not likely to get into the garage for the next couple of days. If I do, I'll have a closer look and report. And yes, almost certainly motor oil. I know what gearbox oil smells like, and I didn't smell that.

Proper black backing FF Brembo 107670810 pads cam today from OPP Racing. Thanks, again, @Speedfrog for the quick reply and links last week! We shall see how they bed in, but I have confidence that they are correct for the rotors instead of the "sinter" SHH rated pads from Brembo.

A couple things first . . . @audiomick, consider editing the signature in your profile to show the year of your LeMans. Certain changes through the range make the production year helpful. (I realize European model years" could vary from the rest of the world, but it's a start.) Next, where does the leak appear relative to the front/rear, left/right of the motor? It is, for certain, motor oil? Does the motor, itself, show a wet area anywhere?

pretty but slow.

You might also consider the seal in the alternator spacer.

s602 here in Portland, Oregon.

Guys am new here Nice meeting you all, Am Freddie by name. Sent from my Infinix X6517 using Tapatalk

Thank you @motoguzznix! That confirms all V11 have the 2-pin calipers, either Brembo P4 34/30 20.6800 or 20.9230 (I cannot tell the difference?) I should have my OE-type Brembo pads by tomorrow. I am expecting black backings and an organic compound. The pads are swimmingly easy to change, especially with the Sport on a lift. With good light. Near a coffee maker. With music playing . . .

Welcome. I hear that the US is a big place. So, unless you are in a very tight witness-protection program, consider narrowing that down a bit. Oh, and maybe a pic of that new V100. Best, Bill

I am going to get to the bottom of it this year, after I complete the Texas Tour.

I have resolved all the problems.... so far. It starts when I need it to, and nothing else is wrong if excepted the engine sneezes below 3000 rpm when the outside temperature is Texas standard. The few earlier rides I did in April and March while temperatures were in the 50's and 60's, I had zero coughs. My next ride will be the Frio Canyon loop. I am looking forward to the Marfa loop though. I am going to try to take some pics of the Le Mans underneath the stellar skies of the Chihuahua desrt.

Have you read through the "decent tune up" topic that docc linked further up? It's in there. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19610-decent-tune-up/ I would strongly reccomend going through and doing all the stuff in the that thread before you start in on the engine management. Playing around with that doesn't make much sense until you know that all the basics are where they are supposed to be.

Haha, well, I've been to Daytona, but I don't have a Daytona.