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@p6x I’m not going to say that you’re lucky but between the oil on the tire and 200 miles on a dry diff you are definitely shall we say fortunate

"Goin' down to [V'leven] Alleeeeey . . . See what is goin' on" . . .

Every now and then I'm reminded why I do this. 220 miles without oil! I'm thinking the drive escaping this unscathed is about zero. You could fill it up and run it for a few miles and check the mag plug again and drained oil as docc suggested but I'm thinking it will be a long shot. Phil

I managed to find this detailed imaged of the brake side emphasizing the "Make-damn-sure Zip-tie " and the location of the "Little ball." Pretty sure, on the clutch side it is a little plastic puck as the switch actuator, but still too easy to let fall out . . .

OK. I’ve never had a problem but I’ll take that on caution.

I was three weeks old, the last time a French rider won the GP. I think they broadcasted the race by telegraph.

And, "for the record" . . .

I feel the urge to clarify that If it is "the same" in the sense that the brakes stay "pumped up" and still have a good feel after standing for some minutes with no wheel rotation, the problem is probably the disk or bearings or something at that end. Something that pushes the pads back away from the disk when the wheel rotates, causing them to need to be "pumped back up" when the brakes are applied. If it "the same" in the sense that the brakes need "pumping up" again after standing for some time, there is probably air in the system that needs bleeding out.

Were you around to witness this happening docc? I've machined that flange off and if you look at the image above it's like 3mm thick at the box and about 2mm thick at the periphery. I still have the removed piece in the workshop. It would take some sort of 6 inch bench drop to break a section of that thing off even at the periphery. Now a ham fisted set up in a press I wouldn't doubt but a heat and drop on a wooden bench, hmm. Phil

I learned, the hard way (from some guys that tried that on my V11 reardrive), that drop-method has the chance of fracturing the broader V11 flange (mine broke).

That, and I reckon there is some electrical stuff in between the side plates, more or less where the airbox should be. Maybe the battery? Whatever, he must have put a fair bit of effort into "customising" the poor thing. The question is, why so much effort to get to that result?

You can buy an aluminium mag plug to fit on ebay from China for like $2 Phil

I'm suspecting the battery and all the electrics now live under the fuel tank? How I don't know.

I reckon he just sprayed everything he could get to with grey from a spray can.

Bevel gears do not take kindly to being driven without oil. If you want an example from my own experience once, back in the day, I decided I wanted to try and raise the final drive gearing a bit on one of my older Tonti’s. I also wanted to fit a ‘Deep Sump’ bevelbox as used on certain Eldorados and 850T’s. To this end I sourced a bos case and purchased at great expense a set of 8/35 bevel gears. I built the gears into the case and everything was looking rosy. BUT at that time I didn’t know that certain early versions of that bevelbox casting had the oil level plug placed far too low in the casing! Sure in hindsight it is obvious that the bottom of the crownwheel would barely be touching the oil and since it is the crownwheel itself that acts as a centrifugal pump to throw the oil around to lubricate anything it meant that the box was going to run damn near dry! Anyway, I bolted it up to the bike and took it out for a short test ride, only about 10-15km at most. It felt fine, no funny noises or anything, but when I returned to the shop the box was far too hot to touch! I nearly shat meself! When it had cooled I removed it and stripped it and the gears were shot completely to pieces. To say I was upset is an understatement as in those pre-internet days sourcing them had been very difficult and very expensive! It was only after long research I found out about the level plug location problem and of course once one knew about it it was obvious! A very hard and expensive lesson was learnt! As for the idea of simply replacing the plug and refilling it? After 200 miles running dry this will not only be pointless it will be very dangerous. The damage to the teeth, especially the pinion teeth, will be extensive. The chance of it spitting one off and locking up the box and rear wheel are high. I would very, very strongly warn against this course of action! As for the missing plug? I know Mike well and both he and Davey are super conscientious and diligent and I’m sure they would be mortified that this has happened. Everyone makes mistakes occasionally. I’m sure if you approach it sensibly a satisfactory solution can be found.

How about contacting Hamlin or Etheridge to see what they have kicking around?

Or is the frame, plus subframes and swingarm, all grey?

OMG , I looked at that bike to see what all was desecrated and did not notice the frame painted black . At least this is the MOST desecrated V11 of all time !

wow... I just looked at the ad and noticed that is has ended with zero bids. It would be quote a bit of work to bring that one back, especially given that the frame was painted black.

As soon as I get that oil drain plug, I will fill the rear transmission with oil and ride for a few miles, drain the oil and send it for analysis to Blackstone lab. I will also check for metal burrs on the plug. I have contacted Mike Haven to get his opinion. There may have been enough residual lubrication so nothing got irremediably damaged; but this is speculation. I will take it one step at a time. Opening the transmission seems to be easy enough. The difficult part is to extract the bearings, since it requires a hub puller and some other specific extraction tools which I do not have, and am not looking to purchase for a one time use. I found the part https://www.partsandparts.de/en/spare-part-for-moto-guzzi-gu92201070-deep-groove-ball-bearing-70x110x13mm_8604_9522/

Yes. But there seems to be only one place for him to go, Honda. And would Honda pick Martin over Acosta? I think Jorge Martin has screwed himself if this is true. He will have demoralized his team, poisoned the well in the team so to say. That will impact the rest of this season for him. And where does he think he is going from Aprilia? His only option seems to be Luca Marini's seat. And people already think Pedro Acosta is going to leave KTM and take that seat. If that happens, possibly Martin could take Acosta's KTM seat but right now that does not seem like a move up from where he is at. In fact, I don't see an available seat for him anywhere that would be a move upwards, I don't see any available seat for Martin that would give him a faster bike then what he has now. He seems to have a knack for shooting himself in the foot.

200 miles with no oil? It’s scrap. If memory serves me correctly the Quota uses the 8/33 gear set so best bet would be find a Cali 1100 final drive from a pre 2002 model, (I think it was ‘02 they went to the deeper splined hub?) and use that. You might need to swap the spacer in the box but other than that it would bolt straight on. Oh, and remove the shock mount.

This works better Mick. https://www.vpw.com.au/rts-differential-master-bearing-kit-suit-9-inch-fo~11881110?srsltid=AfmBOopXnV4Xpxp0oigPC_g1CdqnDRp_tm0eLfX7JR3rW8Pa-IDCz1sdr7o Or this https://torqueking.com/product/90008/qu90008-gear-marking-compound/?sku=90008&srsltid=AfmBOoo6Dfn4xw3NZpGj4RmlrrgORGXrx_2hsxUN2UvKucPvA3IJ_Le9sFw

Aha...well that's a good live version indeed! I had his record version on the big screen today in fact and in the car...that voice, that guitar picking...never gets old! Time for a return trip to the Mississippi Delta...a few years ago, I stopped thru at the BB King museum in Indianola, and another stop at Sun Studios in Memphis... Time for a Guzzi / Blues Tour baby!

That's a good version of Tin Pan Alley....I also really like the one from Lucky Peterson...truly an epic version.

Just drill a small lockwire hole in the shroud to wire to or an angled hole in the drain plug boss. Phil

If you pour something through to rinse the box through the drain hole, does any metal swarf come out that would indicate damage?

Makes me feel really good about what is left of mySport.

I see the ad is "ended", and a further look at all the photos indicates that the poor thing was once a Greenie. One can only hope that she has been passed on to someone with enough decency to restore her to her former glory.

So, on the way "home from work" today, I stopped off in Königsbronn and bought this.

I'd be incllined to buy her, just to rescue her from the humiliation.

Whatever you think doesn't matter . The Tariffmeister is in charge of that whim !

You can test that thought w/the bike sitting still. Pump the rear brake w/your foot three Xs and see if it gets better every stroke. If it does , let it sit for 60 seconds . If it is the same , you MIGHT have a warped rotor . Get the rear wheel off the ground and rotate the wheel . If the rotor is warped you will see the lateral movement and see the warp in the rotor. Also , try moving the wheel to see if there is lateral movement there . There should be NONE .

The hidden part is the small actuator for the safety switch. When you remove the lever, be prepared to catch the little puck that is in a hole in the housing between the lever and the switch. Sometimes that is a little ball bearing whose chief purpose is to spit itself into a parallel universe if you're not ready to nab it. Clean that hole well and grease the pivot pin. Once the stamped nut is on, consider a zip-tie through the pivot pin in case the nut works itself loose and the pin pops out. This allows the lever to fall out and ruins our day. It sounds like time to flush your rear brake fluid and clean/service the rear caliper. Inspect for excessive pad wear that would contribute to increased pedal travel. Another source of increased pedal travel is a bad wheel bearing. Absolutely worth checking your rear wheel bearings.