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Not mine. I just had the pleasure of riding it today. Michael has been doing a lot of work on this beast for its owner, (Who is a member here.) Apart from the cracked flywheel talked about elsewhere. It had lots of horrid little issues, and a few larger ones. Forks seals were shot, lots of missing fasteners and stuff, non existent state of ‘Tune’, buggered camchain tensioner, gearshift spring was changed prophylactically. Tuned and mapped. Anyway it’s passed it’s test. It is lovely! I took it for a brief flog, (It’s only 7*C here today!) it was like riding an angry dinosaur! Despite the missing fasteners and mechanical foul ups heaped upon it in the past it’s paint and plastic etc. is in outstanding shape. What a lovely motorbike?!

Mistral exhaust is definitely the way to go,when i add up the headers,crossover,mufflers and a inline gadget to make it run a bit richer it goes like $$$+$$$$+$$$$+$$=$$$$$$$$$$$$$.Ebay is full of perfectly good motorcycles that were completely stripped for parts but oddly enough there are very few moto guzzis meeting this fate.Used V11 parts are scarce or very,very pricey.

7degC Pete I hope Michael has a heater in the w/shop and doesn't have to work with the door open all day. At that temp I go into sooky la la man and sulk and mumble endlessly about the winter weather.

Sweetest sounding canisters I ever heard on a V11 were the oval carbon fiber Gianelli on @andy york's LeMans. The deep, harmonious sonority was fabulous from behind. Which is where I always was relative to York's LeMans (pulling away through the corners). That said, I have never heard a bad sounding V11 SpineFrame.

No , I was wanting to make sure you KNOW the lock washer everyone calls a lock washer looks like. There are a multitude of different washers called lock washers. The Nord-washer Phil is speaking about is probably the best permanent type lock washer you can use. This is not for repeated loosening and retightening w/o bolt replacement. This clutch set-up would be what you would use these for.

mine did too. when/if you get the RAM unit, would you mind posting the their install recommendations for these? I can't find mine (or anything else since my recent move) but I recall doing schnoors and loctite on my RAM install. ps. the RAM is an absolute pleasure to behold.

I have a few blanks that didn't make it through the stringent QC lady. They would be perfectly usable, but not perfect. I could most likely find the original file and fixture, but don't want to let the form tool go. I'm using it on an airplane I'm building.

See the ‘Pesky single plate clutch’ thread. It was, as I understand, a new purchase. It was leaking like a stuck pig and generally in need of some TLC. Flywheel was f*cked but owner supplied a new RAM single plater to go in along with shift spring and asked Michael to wave his magic wand over it. It’s a lovely motorbike.

Happy to see consistent, increasing bidding on the Ballabio! Three days to go . . .

You want to make sure all parties understand !

Off topic. I have a rear tail light for an Aermacchi. Coffee can style. I bought it about 20 years ago on a whim. If you know anyone that may be interested in it, let me know. I need to go look for it, I think it was pretty much NOS.

I do.

thank you @audiomick

Decided against the RAM, in the interest of both time and economy. But one never knows what's up the road.

My crank and flywheel bolts all have Schnorr washers. Looks like a trip to Harbor Freight for some rust remover.

By "lock washer", do you mean the thin, ridged Schnorr type washers?

"perfectly usable, but not perfect" That's a perfect and perfectly usable description of this entire motorcycle. I can hand-file it, hammer it, and paint it into the shadows. We can have form tools made easily enough and have the press to use it in. As with the Roper Plates, the demand at this point is dwindly but hobbies don't run on profit, and we do have an apprentice to teach all the old ways. So if and when you happen across it, toss it my way and I'll add it to the pile.

every brand of "slip-ons" sound different. Keep this in mind.

Maybe just find "slip on" canisters. Your Ballabio will love you (back) for it . . .

There are a bunch of different types of washers on the market. A person just has to decide what they want to use and use that style until they change to something else . And yes , the lock washer and flat washer used on most everything is pretty soft and just adequate. SAE flat washers and grade 8 washers are better than nothing .

On account of being brilliant (no comparison to @docc though...), I found the post in question. note also my comment two posts down:

It's a couple of years back now, but if I remember correctly, the experts I watched setting up a Greenie went at that part of the rev range by adjusting the CO trim. I'll see if I can find my post. No idea where it was....

Bill Hagan, aka “Ballabio Bill” from Docc’s initial Spine Raid rider turn out log. I remember a couple years ago, in the Spine Raid garage while drinking some Woodford Reserve Double Oaked 🥃, you talked so fondly about your long lost Ballabio, the one that got away. The BaT bike in question should live in the Moto Grappa, end of story. Real price is 5k, gotta have it no more than 6k even with the low miles.

Mistral cans are almost mandatory to let her sing...... Just sayin

Best I've ever carried was a full size rocking chair (many years ago) on the back of a Honda 550/4. Cheated a little bit though with the girlfriend holding on to the chair riding pillion :-). That relationship didn't last long for some reason .

Took an old roto-ho to some farmer friends over the mountain. Got a few vaguelia looks along the way.

There won't be any wear to speak of at that mileage. They use teflon coated bearings etc which are cheap to buy anyway if you need them. Just check the sliders for stone damage to the chrome. Thats what takes out the seals. Removing the lower bracket. Hard work but not necessary for a seal change but required for re chroming the sliders.

Yes. They started there, tried this way and that, and ended up back at -20. The important bit is, I reckon, the "this way and that", i.e. not just set to any particular value, but starting at a value that is known to be fairly good, and varying one way and then the other to find the best value. What they were observing, as mentioned, was the throttle response coming off idle. The process seemed to me to be analagous to setting the mixture screws on a carb: set them to the value in the Workshop Manual, then screw them in and out to find the best setting, in the case of the carbs the best idle.

So, the greenie's CO ended up back at negative 20?

It was basically just a "decent tune up". Karsten (yellow t-shirt and overalls) did all the tinkering, Bernd checked what Guzzidiag can check. They set the TPS (goal was 160 mV, it ended up at about 158), balanced the throttle bodies, set the CO trim. For the CO, they started at -20 and varied back and forwards in steps of 10 to see how it reacted. The focus was on just off closed throttle, i.e. how snappy it was when the throttle was opened from idle. The final setting was -20. Yeah, it does look like that. That is Peter, the bloke who owns the Daytona side car rig. I only met him about an hour before that photo. His Daytona got looked at too. Karsten used to have a Centauro, so he knows that motor pretty well.