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We are not allowed the courtesy of an expiration date . We must treat everyone of our friends as though we are never going to see them again .

He definitely did. I've got a pic somewhere. I'll try and dig it out.

https://mgprotos.com/prototypes Dr John was a legend. His influence reached the very furtherest corner of the planet…

Might it be this picture? I should add that I pinched it. It was up-loaded to a german language V11 Forum. The copyright on it is apparentely owned by Tony Foale himself. I hope he doesn't mind it being posted here.

No problem. Think I paid Buzz at Seattle $586, not cheap, and especially since they were junk/trash when I got them back the 2nd time. I donated both gages to some guy in Canada for "an experiment" he wanted to try, rather than throw them in trash. I bought new ones (ODO in KPH) from Stein Dinse (for fraction of repair bill, roughly 140 each)

I don't think the filter or anything else in line could be causing a problem . Do install a new filter when you install a new pump. While you are at it replace all high pressure rubber fuel lines in this circuit. When you tighten the hose clamps on these lines , just get them snug and make suer the clamps are indexed so you can retighten them if necessary . Fuel leaking from the pump means the pump is bad .

There are two different things you can be doing, one is adding preload, which doesn't make the spring stiffer and is what you referred to. But what you describe doing is cutting the springs to make them stiffer and then replacing the length of spring you cut out to keep the preload the same. That does make the spring stiffer. That is something we would do in the old days when we could not afford to buy the correct springs, or in some cases where the correct springs were not available. I really don't recommend doing that, but technically it can work. If you are going to do that I would probably do it 1 inch or less at a time. If you measure the length of the spring and then cut out, say, 5% of the total length of the spring and replace it with a spacer the length of the spring you cut out that should make the spring roughly 5% stiffer. The big drawback to cutting springs to make them stiffer is you loose the proper end to the spring that allows the end to rotate smoothly on the surface it rides on. That can be even more of an issue if the surface it is riding on is a PVC spacer. It may not slide well on that. I always thought the best way to do that would be to leave the ends and cut out a section of the spring in the middle of the spring and replace it with the matching spacer. But I never actually tried that. Doing it that way would preserve the proper ends on the spring. But it means cutting the spring twice instead of once. Before I ever got to try it I started making enough money for a living that I could buy the proper springs so I never needed to try the middle cut idea. But springs should be available for the V11 at a reasonable cost. I would go that route over cutting your springs to make them stiffer. Also, have you properly measured your sag and determined how much you have? That would be step 1. Just making your springs stiffer by cutting them without first knowing how much sag you have would be a shot in the dark. Springs are a lot cheaper then a full replacement cartridge. But knowing that you need new springs and whether they need to be softer or stiffer then what you have now would be a matter of measuring your current sag first. Instructions on how to measure sag are on here if you need. Also, it sounds like you have the one version of forks that Andreani actually makes replacement cartridge's for. Black 40mm forks with compression on one leg and rebound on the other, if I understood you correctly.

Only 77 years old. https://www.mgcn.nl/database/modeloverzicht/11-daytona-1100sport-centauro/14-dr-john-fastbikes-interview https://www.mgcn.nl/database/modeloverzicht/11-daytona-1100sport-centauro/252-dr-john-interview,-motorcycle-road-racer-illustrated-november-88 https://allmoto.com/moto-guzzi-daytona.htm https://magazine.cycleworld.com/article/1986/7/1/drjohn-and-the-guzzi-gang

Oh! Wait! Non-sparking!

RIP Dr John Those of us who love riding the spine framed V twins have certainly benefited from his enthusiasm & inventiveness for the Guzzi marque. Just imagine how different things would be now if Dr John had concentrated on filling molars & doing root canal’s instead of turning his mind to improving the products of Mandello. Frankly I don’t consider 77 to be “old” these days, not when I’ve already passed the 60 milestone some time ago… we pass this way but once, however for us Guzzistas Dr John will be remembered with the respect he deserves

Pity he never gave any credit, (That I know of.) to the man who actually designed and pioneered the Spineframe.

Man, a Guzzi legend. He seems to be what some of us shadetree mechanics dream of doing. what a bummer…

Too many variables to this equation on a fuel system thats been dry for an extended period of time and is 25 years old to begin with. I would have changed out the filter as a basic precaution to start with. Any leaking issues with the external pump means it gets replaces. It's got plastic end caps crimped to the pump body, is 20 years old and lives in a hostile environment and any leakage in that area can result in a mobile disaster . I look at mine now and the aging of the plastic and think it's about time to just replace the thing anyway. The venting should be checked as others have pointed out but also the regulator. From personal experience used ones that have been left dry for extended periods like a few months or more can jam closed. You initiated the pump and hear it start and then begin to labour and there's a sudden loud "pop" as it comes unstuck. Maybe yours did unstick and the system over pressurised to an extent and caused the pump end cap sealing to fail? Although the pump itself has an internal pressure relief. To may variables on an aged system as I said. Time to just replace some components. Phil

When I was in school, it was the lower case omega symbol; nick named the bum...

Sad news. Always hoped we get him to an SSR.....

All makes some sense. For sure am replacing the filter too. And I’ll see if i can force some air through the tank vents. New pump and filter are enroute….

Sad to see him pass.

Bloody hell. All these variations...does your head in eh! Cheers

If your bike has 43mm dia sliders and a hollow 25mm axle the Andreanis won't fit. The V11 Sport/Le mans series has 3 types of forks fitted apart from the Ohlins. All Marzocchi. The original 40mm on the first bikes which were silver and had a standard hex nut on the 20mm solid axle and an internal index for the cartridge at the inner base of the axle clamp/brake calliper support. No one makes carts for these. Then there was the next generation of 40mm forks with the flat inner base mount for the carts and black legs with the 20mm solid heavy axle and an integral thread in the left fork leg for the axle to thread into. Some of these were also made in silver legs from memory as well. Andreani make carts for these. First and second gen forks have adjustable rebound and comp on opposing legs, no preload adjustment. Then came at around 2003 the 43mm forks with the hollow 25mm axle, black stanchions, separate axle nut again and adjustable spring preload and rebound damping only on both legs and a different fork cap thread dia and pitch. Andreani carts don't fit these even if they advertise they do. All 3 versions have 54mm OD stanchions so all three fit all types of triple clamp the range cam with during it's 6 year model life. Then there was the 3 different fork clamps used but that's been covered already. Phil

This so reminds of getting all giddy over a V7 loop-frame. Then wanting another gear in the box. Maybe another 50cc. How about disc brakes? A Tonti frame. Maybe another 100cc, even up to a thousand ? Some bigger valves, a better cam . . . bigger carbs? Better wheel sizes . . . How about a Spine Frame? Fuel injection . . . different drive ratios with 6speeder to settle the engine/shaft angles . . . but still two valves, air cooled . . . It always just brings me back home . . .