Pressureangle

Er... did they remove a relay in the later production? Shoot, where did I leave that schematic... since this thing has over 60k on it with stock relays and unmolested harness (except for the regulator/wiring) I'll have to have a close look at it.

@orangem2 is right, this is all so awful Now I get to choose between kludges or make up a new one. Meh. Oh and pack in startus interruptus as well Well, today was wiring harness day anyway we'll see what evolves.

Turning over initially, but quit? Give a bit more info- was it turning over such that you expected it to start? Did it quit turning on a second push of the starter button, or while turning? Was it turning, didn't start, so you cycled the run switch then no crank? The easy way to test the relay is to throw a known good one in, if you have the functional old ones you took out or swap the headlight relay into the start position. Check your battery voltage, this is starting to smell like a bad battery.

If you mean *my* housing, whatever disaster befell it came before my time. I have never found the proper stock washer for that space amongst the debris left in the bottom of the boxes- and it's on backorder from Harper's. Since it bears no pressure, I'll try replacing it with some synthetic washers that fit tight around the spacer and fill the space appropriately.

Frame, shocks and fork smell like '70s Honda 450. Possible Norton Featherbed...plus skinny swingarm and British gearbox.

Yes, as my own V11 showed, there can be *a lot* of rust hidden behind that bearing. I've sourced a couple different sealing type washers to go between the drive and swingarm, hoping to actually improve the seal around this water entry point. TBD how they work in operation. Also cleaned and coated everything inside with Cosmoline before reassembly.

Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you flip the switch to 'run'? Next, you need a test light and seat off. Gearbox in neutral, yes? I just had about a 5 minute WTF with a honda quad I haven't used in a few months because it wasn't in neutral.

You most certainly did *not* see ESI on the shelf at the auto parts. Well...I always hoped I would, but never have- perhaps in oil country it's possible. Chevron Delo gear oil is common, but it is an entirely different animal than the ESI. Nearly all gear oils use ZDDP as does engine oil (used to anyway) but ESI uses Borate-based chemistry. The ESI, though viscosity-rated, appears to me to be thinner at 85w140 than any off the shelf xxw90 oils. Don't know the current Auto Parts Premium prices for Mobil 1, Lucas, etc. Here's my last order- Order #14083 Ship to Jensen Beach, Florida, 34957, United States Chevron Delo 85W140 Gear Lubricant ESI 12/1.8# Case 224504319 Brand: Chevron USA $115.32 Qty: 1 $115.32 Subtotal: $115.32 Shipping: $40.00 Sales Tax: $0.00 Grand total: $155.32 Payment method: Braintree (PayPal) Shipping method: FedEx ® (Ground) for $40.00 Santie Oil Company santiemidwest.com

Eh, that's obsessive. I use Chevron Delo ESI 85w140, which serves for instance Meritor and Mack warranty to 100,000 miles, 35,000 under 'severe service' (logging, mining, heavy haul) so our poor little things don't even warm it up. FWIW I measured a 15*F drop in temperature on my rear drive over RedLine shockproof heavy and very noticeable quieting of my straight-cut gearbox after a couple hundred miles. <shrug> magic stuff I found after about 2 days of very serious investigation of gear oils. ESI happens to be 'motive' but I found it while investigating industrial gear oils- ESI is as good as it gets, plus the 'motive' qualities are mostly resistance to water and contaminants. I've put 20k miles on this BMW rear lube, and it's still nearly clear. And while hard to find and not inexpensive, only 2/3 the price of boutique lubes like RedLine, Motul, etc. Edit; My bad, *500,000* mile interval. https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/delo-gear-esi-sae-85w-140.html

No, I just drain it as well as possible overnight, blow it out with air. Diesel is a lightweight lubricant itself, and the tiny bit remaining won't affect anything. With heat cycles, the lighter aromatics evaporate out and the rest integrates with the lube. If I was unhappy about how much I thought remained, I'd run a cheap gear oil for a lunch trip to mix the diesel in, then drain and re-fill with preferred lube.

Not everybody likes my style, but for flushing gearboxes when possible I operate them under no load filled with diesel fuel. That gets all the nooks and crannies, suspends the particulates, and flushes clean except for the worst of circumstances. If I have rusty lube (looking at the insides of this V11 gearbox, all the rust was on the shift forks) as many industrial gearboxes do if they've been out of service and couldn't disassemble it, I'd have no issue flushing well with Acetone, blow air drying, and filling overnight with Evap-O-Rust. Slosh it, flush it, Isopropyl alcohol rinse, fill it, run it.

...a fine example of a blown-out main seal?

Thinking about the clutch release a while. A hydraulic system properly bled doesn't change over the course of the clutch's life, and the engagement depends largely on the ratio of the master/slave and clutch composition. I have 3 styles of dry clutches at hand; '74 Aermacchi 350, cable operated and iirc has 6 friction plates. 3 twin-plate Guzzis; 2 cable, 1 hydraulic conversion. 1 '04 BMW GSA single-plate hydraulic. Simple correlation is, the less plates the narrower the friction zone and sensitive engagement. After riding nearly anything else, the BMW makes you wonder how a company famous for good stuff made something so horrible, then installed it in something actually named *Dirt/Street Adventure*. So going back to these after riding a wet-clutch bike always brings surprise. The throwout bearing in the BMW failed this summer (105k miles) and sent fluid up the clutch pushrod which eventually found it's way to the back of the friction disc. I rode it 4k more miles that way, carefully, noting that the clutch engagement was smoother (lol) but right at the first touch of the lever. With everything new, it's still pretty quick on the lever but the engagement takes more movement. So to the point, Guzzi throwout bearings are pretty well lubricated by normal environment but also a known wear point. If you spend a lot of time holding the clutch in, or don't know the full history of the bike, it's probably worth the time to inspect the bearing. The clutch itself, if it's working it's working. Even if it's at end-of-life, you'll get plenty of warning before it becomes unrideable.

Maybe a better way to ask is, "Who has actually replaced a clutch because it wore out and stopped working?" I just replaced the clutch in the new-to-me 63k mile 2000 V11 Sport because it came in a basket but truly, the clutch looks like it was about half baked. There was some crowning in the pressure plate and center disc, but by the look the previous owner used the clutch a lot and in traffic. The clutch in my '85 LeMans at 50k miles wasn't as bad as that, either. After getting to 105k miles in my single-disc BMW GS and having it fail because the throwout bearing died and greased the disc I'll say I won't ever take one apart that works properly. The throwout bearing is probably worth a look and grease or replacement if you have the rear tire off, but even that wear is probably more a function of how many hours it's stood in traffic than miles in gear. <shrug> I'm way less sensitive about clutches in general than I was when everything I owned had a wet clutch.

That made my brain stall. I'm sure whatever mathematically provable difference in efficiency is statistically insignificant...but I get jumpy running AC/pulsed wires in pairs near unrelated electronics. Probably overcautious. I like to keep regulators as close to stators as possible, though I can't say I have sound electrical engineering behind that preference.

'dark and dirty'. Is that possibly Moly additive residue? What lube are you using in trans and bevel? No idea on the fork, but since they're not pressurized I suspect it's simply an o-ring on the adjuster. Of course, it will be a size you can't obtain but from a suspension specialist lol

'different width of the lateral spineframe crossmember'. Do you mean the T-section the porkchops bolt on to? I'd have to see someone's direct measurements to believe it's different. So far it seems like the only requirements to put a 6-speed where a 5-speed sits is the lower subframe (probably) swingarm, driveshaft and bevel drive. I haven't yet seen whatever was declared to be a difficult change. The transmission output offset is accommodated by the swingarm hole, and even that appears to have been adjusted within the same basic swingarm as the 5-speed. Wish I had the 'Sport here at the same time. That will come.

Oh BTW those porkchops are actually from an 1100 Sport-i. Enquiring minds wanted to know. clue

'photogenic'. Good lighting lol

closer...

If it was any sort of primitive automotive system I'm familiar with, I'd say to check connection to and function of the engine/intake air temperature sensors. If they fail they can make it run 'on choke' forever. Does it run any better cold than warm? Also hard to check here, but if a piece of debris holds an injector open it dribbles fuel all the time. Pretty common in earlier car stuff, and both EFI bikes I have desperately needed their injectors cleaned. One didn't seem to dribble and the other I haven't run yet. I suppose you could pull the injector and see that it primes properly, then should not produce any more fuel at the tip. If it's leaking bad enough to produce your symptoms it should be obvious.

Had to look that one up. Most Aussie colloquialisms have at least landed in my ear, but not that one. Yeah, H-D really shanked an opportunity in the weeds with the Livewire. But I think the demographic probably supports this style over the crotch rocket or cruiser.

Throttle bodies finished, new linkage rod made, drawing of thumbwheel adjuster sent to shop for future production, Slave cylinder disassembled/cleaned/flushed/mounted. Now to fit the engine/trans into the frame and begin the countless trips to the hardware store for the milieu of fasteners unaccounted for or too ugly to use. I've decided to leave the heads in place for now, I'll run it for a tank of gas before doing a leakdown test and spark plug check. I noticed the transmission serial number does not match the engine, though quite obviously this is the transmission the original owner took out of the bike. Can anyone confirm these numbers don't necessarily match? Don't care just curious.

I'm still waiting for my backordered '00 V11 slave. Seems there would be a larger market for these than the newer models?

Truly, I quite like the larger font. I would make mine large like yours, if I didn't already know what it says.