Pressureangle

that's the inner bore of the crown gear bearing.

Well, I guess I shouldn't have expected perfection... whilst cleaning up the rear drive, noticed the main crown bearing feels... old. So, out with the old and in with the new. Not too happy about the apparent quality of the SKF installed at the factory- the contact pattern on the crown gear shaft shows evidence of Chinesium. Nothing $200 worth of Timken and new seal can't fix.

I've ordered sealing washers in both reinforced BUNA-N and UV resistant EPDM for the rear drive. We'll see how they fit, and then how long they last. And a 10-pack of Picker relays. This thing is still wearing all 5 originals.

So now I know I'm using it correctly when I say I'm just putzen around in the garage.

Have you ever had a look at the inside of the inner bearing? You can't see it or remove it through the axle hole. When I reassemble this, everything in the rust-prone zone will be perfectly clean and given a good dose of Cosmoline, and I'll look into some way to improve the seal at the axle/swingarm junction. My drive has some scabs where apparently a non-stock washer was used with a too-big hole which allowed to droop out of the recess and mushed up the edges a little. While normal maintenance was done, the outer roller bearing in particular is either well-attended or had been replaced still with 60k miles it's seen plenty of heat cycles as well as probably rain and maybe even washed once.

...but it ain't. So, that little roller bearing on the swingarm end of the rear drive, that gets rusty if you pay it no mind? Well, behind that is a steel spacer which also gets rusty, and plenty of space for water to collect with no exit. This bearing looked *fine* from the spline side. But I could'nt rotate it with a finger, and you can't get it out without taking the crown gear out. Lo and behold. So this should probably be added to the 'every so often'/'x miles'/'x years' maintenance check.

Today's work Get it up, get the swingarm off Pull the inner axle bearing- looks Great!

So, since I've ponied up a subscription to SuperGrok, I asked. This took about 8 seconds to return. 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r-11cv4x{0%{transform:rotate(0deg);}100%{transform:rotate(360deg);}} @keyframes r-imtty0{0%{opacity:0;}100%{opacity:1;}} .r-52ai0{position:absolute;visibility:hidden;top:0;width:50px;pointer-events:none} .r-52ai0.loaded{visibility:visible;top:50vh;width:50px} Which Moto Guzzi V11 models came with Ohlins front fork suspension? The Moto Guzzi V11 models that came equipped with Öhlins front fork suspension are the following: V11 Scura (2002): This limited-edition model featured Öhlins suspension components, including a titanium nitride-coated 43 mm inverted Öhlins telescopic fork. V11 Café Sport (2003-2005): This model replaced the Scura and was fitted with a 43 mm adjustable Öhlins inverted telescopic fork. V11 Le Mans Rosso Corsa (2003): This high-spec version of the Le Mans came with a 43 mm adjustable Öhlins inverted telescopic fork. V11 Le Mans Nero Corsa (2004): Similar to the Rosso Corsa, this model featured a 43 mm adjustable Öhlins inverted telescopic fork. V11 Coppa Italia (2004-2005): This limited-edition model, built to commemorate Moto Guzzi’s participation in the 2003 Italian Naked Bike Championship, was equipped with a 43 mm adjustable Öhlins inverted telescopic fork. These models are noted for their premium Öhlins suspension, which provided superior handling and performance compared to the standard Marzocchi-equipped V11 models. Other V11 variants, such as the standard V11 Sport, V11 Le Mans, and V11 Ballabio, typically came with 40 mm Marzocchi forks unless upgraded aftermarket. Always verify with specific bike documentation, as some owners may have retrofitted Öhlins forks to non-standard models.

Are these black Ballabio forks Ohlins? https://www.ebay.com/itm/326689381071?plmtId=1113040101&mesgId=9001&mkpid=0&emsid=enull.m176181.l196148&ch=osgood&euid&bu=43195855450&trkId=ab042c34-5af7-3c94-94d5-75a0d449a7c0&cnvId=1b4ee4b9-f118-40e2-85f0-52fa156ff878&osub=-1~1&crd=20250822080008&segname&recoId=326689381071&recoPos=1&ul_noapp=true

Head bearings can be had from a number of places, but I want the bearing number itself which wasn't readable on any web photo I could find, and that's no guarantee either. I like to know the brand I'm installing; I prefer Timken but NSK or FAG from a reputable supplier insures that they aren't no-name or counterfeit Chinesium. Most likely. The brake pin, yes well I see the point there. However, it's rusty and ugly and has had a broken off allen in it so long I haven't been able to remove it. I may have to replace the entire pin, or cut the allen off smooth and paint it... we'll see.

We'll see about the head bearings when they arrive. The swingarm bearings, well though the grease was a bit dry, a quick spin with the drill motor and everything smoothed back out. I have to take the swingarm back off anyway to remove the brake hangar pin- it's seized in there but good. Wish I had the 'Sport here, to measure- I know it's been said a hundred times that a 6 speed can't just be bolted up but by the looks of things I don't see why not, with just a swingarm and drive change. Eventually they'll both be in the same place long enough to measure thoroughly.

surprisingly difficult to find bearing numbers without the bearings in hand- wheels are getting tires and trees are still on. Double check me, if anyone has documentation; Steering head bearings; 30205 Front wheel bearings; LH 6205-2rsh 25x52x15 RH 6304-2rsh 20x52x15 Rear wheel bearings; L&RH 6204-2rsh 20x47x14 Inner axle bearing (bevel) 6304-2rsh same as RH front wheel

I just discovered a custom seat builder right here in town- I'll be visiting very soon, as I have more than a couple seat projects on the shelves. The V11 seat is geriatric, I always wanted the 1100 Sport done in saddle leather, the Aermacchi cafe project only has a fiberglass base and the stocker is rotting off the stock base. The Norton Fastback seat is shot, and ridiculously expensive *if* you find one, even one that needs work. https://voodoosaddles.com/

...but you still have a spine to bring.

While you have the bearing in hand, the balls roll in the center of the races. Mounted in the bike, if the side pressure is imperfect, the balls run on the edge of the races. You have to push pretty hard sideways to feel it, and if you do it's probably only in one direction. Try clamping the side of the outer race in a vice, and using a wood dowel or broomhandle end (rounded) to spin the inner race while you push on it. Standard ball; (intolerant of side thrust) Angular contact; (meant for side thrust) More than you wanted to know about bearings; https://www.nhbb.com/knowledge-center/engineering-reference/ball-roller-bearings/internal-geometry-ball-bearings

http://microblueracing.com/

With a few more measurements, I could send that up for quotes to the same supplier making the Roper Plates. I may just do that when I get around to sniffing the butt of this zombie bike.

A too-long spacer won't put side pressure on the bearings, so no- probably. You can, if the spacer is too long, drive the bearing outer races into a tight hub where they can't center themselves- achieving the same effect, though the axle nut can apply a lot more pressure than likely to achieve by driving them against the spacer. Phil's method above works, and if you have a nice hardened (read 'measures consistent across surfaces') washer, you could probably just rotate the washer by hand on the spacer and installed bearing, and feel it kinda just brush against the race shoulder. If the washer is hard against the hub, the axle nut will crush any clearance out- too tight. If it measures good and feels good, you're good. "In the event this 112.9mm measurement is reasonably accurate, and my replacement spacer is 113.145, then may spacer is too long by almost 0.010" (0.245mm). Based on the discussion, that sounds like too much lateral displacement of the inner race limiting the bearing life?" I'd like to see less than .010", but I wouldn't let it keep me from riding.

I should mention that it's critical to have the spacer perfectly aligned with the bearings when taking measurements. If it's tipped it will measure long. You can finger it out, or if it's a decent fit on the axle you can use the axle and a soft mallet as the bearing driver. If the outer races are tight in the hub you can fit a piece of pipe to the outer race whilst the axle stays in place.

as long as you're in there, here's how I verify spacer fit- Set both bearings tight to the hub shoulders, with no center spacer Measure bearing depths from hub flange, both inner and outer races Remove one side bearing, place spacer. Re-install bearing until it bottoms Re-measure bearings; if you have *zero* change from no spacer measures, it's too short. If driving the second bearing home changes the depth of the first bearing, note by how much. These small bearings have very little clearance, so I would say if your center (spacer) race moved by .001" to .003" you're in good shape. If you get more protrusion than a couple thousandths, your spacer is long- which can overload the bearings if the outer races are too tight to float in the hub, which they should be. I would rather shim up a short spacer than try to work with a long one, as it's important to have the ends perfectly square to the centerline of the bearings, hard to achieve with a file or stone. If your spacer is long, you *can* drive the bearings against the spacer with an appropriate driver that touches only the inner race- then when the driven bearing finds home, the direction of forces on both bearings will load the races equally and center themselves up. That does leave you with a couple or few thousandths between the hub and the outer race of one of the bearings; a few thousandths is ok, but if they aren't tight in the hub they can shift and chafe during use. Have I overclarified that to mud now?