80CX100

The headlight relay kit company you're referring to, is probably "Eastern Beaver". If you've already got the kit installed, I'd just work through and chase/clean the connections with Deoxit. Perhaps the relay has gone TU

If that part proves difficult to find, I know for the Griso and possibly other models, there were after market fender eliminator kits available, has there ever been a similar kit for the V11s that might replace that damaged structural piece? Harpers sometimes has some odd parts hanging around. There was a recently a post re parts on EBAY in Europe for a V11, with any luck at all there may be someone stateside parting one out as well.

If the battery tray bracket hasn't been lowered, you may want to consider it. If it's due, bleeding the rear brake at the same time as the clutch. Cleaning up the main ground above the swing arm inboard of the driveshaft. I've probably forgotten something. I think if you search for it, Docc had compiled a list of maintenance items to do/check whenever the rear wheel is off. fwiw

That could be a good resource to file away. I noticed a couple of Ohlins steering dampers and a front wheel, triple clamp etc Was someone not looking for a triple clamp & wheel(s) recently, @Lucky Phil?

I know I'm a painfully slow mechanic, and I have to learn or relearn just about everything I do, but there's a reason I don't trust my bike with shop mechanics. With it stuck on so bad and the fastenings so tight and you can't see a colored sealant,,,,, Just a wag, but the mechanic probably got shit once before, because a customer's bike came back with a leaking sump gasket; he's obviously gone overboard to make sure that didn't happen with yours, I bet he's got it sealed up tight with YamaBond or similar product. Very lucky all your sump bolts weren't stripped

The very first time I dropped the sump on my new to me CalVin, I had a h*ll of a time. It had been sealed so heavily with orange RTV? when I finally got it off, at first I thought it was some type of silicon gasket. Then I connected the dots and realized it was the cleaning job from hell. lol Even with gentle taps with a plastic/rubber mallet, I know how fragile those thin cooling fins are, btdt, so I'd try other means to apply pressure. Is it possible to fashion and jam a big wood wedge in to place downward force on top of the drain plug at the back? Or put a socket on it and give it a few good wacks back and forth, forwards etc. If you had a slide hammer, with a hooked tip onto a socket or perhaps a big loop of heavy fishing line over the drain plug putting a downward/sideways force might break the seal. If it's not a painted sump and plain metal, a gentle torch or heat gun to soften things up might help. Can you tell the color of the sealant used to get an idea of the temp required to loosen it?

Docc that looks ugly! What was the cause of that carnage. A lay down or a tie down? I've seen some funky poor welding on a variety of alloys, but that repair looks quite good.

Putting the bike on a lift and using a jack to raise it to get the front wheel off is relatively easy. Getting it up in the air, supported, balanced and tied off securely so you can remove both wheels at the same time; requires some careful thought and planning. My Tonti frames with a center stand are child's play in comparison. fwiw ymmv jmho

My V11 is a 2003, I had to grind off the front and outside corners to keep the bracket from fouling on the frame rails on my bike. I found it a finigly pita job working blind and upside down to lower the battery bracket, but it's so crowded in that area, I'm extremely glad I persevered and got it done Picking up the Odyssey L adapter brackets will be an added bonus for making connections easier to manage as well. fwiw good luck

Tks for doing the leg work docc to get the photo and the ad here. It's a beautiful looking bike, but like all things online, due diligence buyer beware, yada yada. There's a post over on WG right now on a "scammy" looking ad for a 1000S for sale. It appears that the crooks in the world have now discovered the allure of highly desirable guzzis, and that Scura looks mighty fine. just an fyi

For my tastes they're a bit too modern, complicated and I "think" tuning and design is more on the leading edge of the spectrum. From reading Pete's posts over the years, I think he has a good opinion of the brand. I read the local ricky racers, raving about the Apes abilities and attributes, but I don't ever recall them describing them as comfortable. fwiw ymmv

I lost track of exactly what you're trying to tackle & do, but I always have a jug of Acetone around, not sure if that would work for you. fwiw

2 hours ago, Lucky Phil said: Tank off, front subframe off, alternator cover and alternator off plus a few other bits and pieces as well as the cover itself. Honestly without the "its a 10 minute job" thing maybe you'd have it off in an hour and a half being careful. My as well change out the crank seal while you have the cover off as well. Ciao I had forgotten about all that crap having to come off to do that job; as LP says, I seem to recall a small seal on that shaft, and iirc you need a special little tool to pop the alternator off. I had made a home made one out of an old screw driver that worked better than the one I bought from EME, fwiw. Make sure you have that tool and be patient and careful doing that part of the job, I've read far too many horror stories of guys getting the tool stuck in there and Murphy's law can turn it into quite the adventure. Patience and good luck

Historically, I always ran Valvoline 20w50 dino motorcycle oil and that's what I ran in my vintage big block guzzis, I think I've still got half a case left and I'll work my way through it on those bikes. I'm considering switching those bikes over to the full synthetic Motul at some point, but I'm hesitant, just in case I cause oil leak problems with seals etc, fwiw idk. Once I started riding modern big block 2 valve guzzis, ie California Vintage, Griso, they recommended 10w60 synthetic, due to difficulty sourcing it here in Canada I've settled on Motul 7100 and that's what I've decided to run in my V11 just to simplify things. I can't remember if I ever verified what the exact levels of phosphorus or ZDDP Zinc were, but iirc knowledgeable guzzistis were of the opinion it was a good oil. On the Motul 7100 label they don't list ppm of ingredients, but they do state that it meets the MA2 standard and is JASO backwards compatible. Of interest, they specifically mention that it meets or exceeds the manufacturers specs for KTM, Husqvarna, MV Augusta and Moto Guzzi. fwiw ymmv

I noticed this Scura on the FB Moto Guzzis for sale page. It's not the page run by Mike Skaggs it's another one that popped up in the last year and I've noted that a lot of the ads, buyers sellers, seem somewhat sketchy, jmo. That being said if you're in the NJ area and in the market for this model, you might want to follow up on it Buyer beware yadda yadda Moto Guzzi’s For Sale Kevin Kretz · 5h · Second owner of '02 V11 Sport Scura.In good-very good condition. I have passenger seat cover, it's just not in the pictures. Runs well, new battery/filters/plugs. Lower kit for gearshift+rear brake installed. It's beautiful, I just don't ride it enough. After the avalanche of scammy requests, I'd like to limit inquiries to potential in-person buyers. I'm in northern NJ. Thank you. $4,500 · Morris Plains, NJ 2002 Moto Guzzi v

This is above my pay grade, but I have read of similar problems in older guzzis with different thickness of new clutch plates. Iirc the solution is a longer push rod or inserting a small ball bearing into the clutch throw out rod assembly to increase the overall length. Could that be your problem and how that plays out in the V11 hydraulic clutch assembly I have no idea. fwiw

I lucked into a bargain on a Rukka suit on Kijiji. The pants portion are well armoured and functioned well with the expandable velcro belt, but making use of the quality buttons and adapting a strong set of suspenders to them made a huge difference in comfort and being able to tuck in whatever warm layers I needed to underneath.

I'm not sure what stores you have local to you, but up here in Canada, Princess Auto and especially Canadian Tire, has those big 1/2" drive bars on sale all the time. I think I've been picking them up for less than $10. They're not top quality but despite my best efforts, I've never broken one, I've bought a bunch of them 3-4? I've got them all over the place, I keep one in my car with a socket to tighten my lug nuts if need be, and I've got others in both garages in case a fastening gets fussy and won't come undone, those johnson bars and if needed a pipe extension for more leverage have never failed. Just a wag, but I think Harbor Freight, Pep Boys, Wal Mart or something similar in the US should have them cheap. fwiw

I've never tried a Pitbull style stand, I can certainly see them being useful. I've got a variety of chocks, by far my best piece of kit is a high quality scissor jack (Drag Specialties?) If I want to raise my V11 to work on the rear & front at the same time, the rear weight bias of my V11, requires a second lifting device at the back. My Tontis are much more balanced, I could just lift the sump then stabilize it on stands or blocks, my Spine frame doesn't balance on the sump. I'm a little gun shy and overly cautious, because I had it up on the table on the scissor jack, strapped down tight, and thought I could remove the rear wheel through the drop plate and the whole works came very close to tipping over backwards. fwiw ymmv

Thank you very much for doing that and including the measurements. Iirc the stand for the Griso is probably a little narrower, with a shorter cross frame member on the bottom, I didn't have much room to play with, to fit the hardware and sockets in place From your photo I think I could come up with an improvement that's more secure and doable.

If you have the time and ability please post some good close up photos of the mounting hole in the stand and the fastening bits to attach the sockets. I researched it extensively and made up a variety of attachments, none that worked as well as I'd like. Anything I tried that looked like it wouldn't damage the square mounting holes in the aluminum stand, left a little play in the sockets, which I wasn't comfortable with.

I got one of these stands with my Griso and adapted it with sockets to lift my V11. The problem I have with my mcgyvered outfit is that , the big nuts on the pork chops have to be slightly loose so the stand can rotate into position. Do you have to loosen the nuts with your Becker-Technik? Yes, a big 1/2" drive johnson bar is the perfect lever to use with it.

Oh I know all about more efficiency, power etc and the long service intervals. It just doesn't resonate with me like a simple air cooled twin. The engine in my Suzuki DL1000 was a beast, very powerful, even in the lower state of tune compared to versions in other models. The shim valve wear/adjustments were extremely stable. I did the 2nd valve adjustment on it at 50K kms and only half of them were out by small amounts. But it was still a major pita,,, getting to the valves,,,pulling the cams,,, then burning brain cells and praying that when I made the trip to town for shims, that everything would spec out right when I got it back together. It probably didn't need it for the low mileage, but being 14? yrs old at the time, I changed the inlet and outlet coolant hoses which had to be special ordered from the dealer. That bike probably had the most powerful advanced engine, of any machine of any type that I've owned,,, it made my blood run cold, different strokes.

Hey Docc, Tks but that's not it,,,, the ones I've seen had sleeker smoother lines on the Kawi green,,, it might have been an older model. idk edit, Hey Docc I took a look online for the model I've seen,,, it's the Z900RS Cafe in the Kawi green with a little fairing. The lines may be a little different or just the color makes it seem that way. For whatever reason. the rad doesn't seem to be as in your face idk

I wouldn't be buying any, just because I don't like the modern complexities and designs etc, that being said. I love big singles, and when I read about the performance and light weight of the Huskys/KTMs, I'd love to thrash a Vitpilen around a back country road with a set of sticky tires on it. I think that would be a special ride. At this point in my life I hate the whole 4 cylinder/4valve/bucket shim/water cooled, concept, but as a former owner of a 1976 Kawasaki KZ900 (sacrilegiously set up for touring) I think that the modern retro Z900? captures the lines and vibe better than any other model. I'd love to take one for a rip, not sure what my survival rate would be, just as well, that that opportunity will never take place. lol The designers hit a home run on that bike. If I was forced to spend my own money on a modern retro, although it was never imported into Canada, it would have to be MG's V9 Bobber Sport in red Classic lines, simpler maintenance, with sticky tires and decent suspension, the performance might be lacking a little, but the looks and vibe of that V9 Bobber Sport in red, hit all the right buttons for me.