80CX100

I've been lurking on this site for a long time,only a member for the last couple of years since I got my new to me 2003 V11 Lemans VIN ZGUKTCxx73M111236 I always struggled posting images to this site, so I never entered my Lemans in the registry. Today's the day I recently stumbled on Docc's excellent instructions on how to post images in the gallery, I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was. Once again,Tks Docc for taking such good care of us My 2003 V11 Lemans,was originally purchased at Blackfoot Motorsports in Calgary,Alberta, Canada. The bike led a sheltered life only accumulating 6K kms., the owner & the V11 relocated to Kemptville, Ontario, Canada 6-7 yrs ago, where the bike was listed for sale, only an hour from my house. I never actually saw the V11Lemans when it was for sale close by,although I spoke to the owner selling it many times. Long story short, it slipped through my fingers and ended up in a living room as a display piece in Toronto Ontario, 3-4 hrs away. I kept tabs on the bike and contacted the new owner,and through a bizarre set of circumstances,I received a phone call one day out of the blue,the owner of the V11 told me if I could get down there with cash on the weekend while his girlfriend was out of town I could buy the bike;which I did,lol. I own 3 Tonti frame bikes,which I find much easier to work on and more organic and graceful in their design compared to the spine frames;but I've done a ton of niggly little jobs on the bike and I'm growing to love my V11,it is indeed a rocketship compared to my Tontis. What I've come to love and appreciate about the spine frames and my V11,is learning about Dr John and his passion and dedication in it's development. Seeing the design sketches by Marabese, adds to the provenance and my appreciation of this rolling piece of guzzi art history. I've adjusted the MPH risers dozens of times and it's still a frustrating exercise getting just the perfect set up. I often think of Todd Haven (rip) and how choked up Mike Haven was when I dealt with him in obtaining this special piece of kit for my bike. Pete with his Roper plate & the project by members here to get them made. Lucky Phil's tranny improvements & shift linkage extension & Chuck stepping up to get them made and distributed. Everyone that was involved in the shift spring development and manufacture. It's heartwarming to know,that so many passionate people have been involved in the background in making my V11 Lemans, the special motorcycle it is. Gratitude to Jaap's vision & dedication for giving us all this playground, so the magic can happen.

Hey Docc, I know nothing about the VINs and the changes,just thinking out loud,throwing it out there for food for thought. With 3 separate VIN series, could that denote 3 varieties of the evolution in the design and specs through that time frame. Ie something along the lines of, short frame/short tank,,,long frame/short tank,,, long frame/long tank,,,early ECU's P8?,,,15M,,,15RC,,,,? double plate clutch,,,single plate,,,double plate ,,, or the topic of recent discussions the various front ends/triple clamps/fork/front wheel axle assemblies. It would be interesting and helpful,,if somehow you could reference a VIN # and know EXACTLY what the OEM specs of the bike should be,,,,, Not to slam MG,but I'm not sure that type of organization & management skills,were ever part of their wheel house,especially with the many ownership changes

Similar story here. There obviously has been a major security breach. I had cancelled my PP,but due to some algorithm a small subscription fee was automatically withdrawn and paid by them many weeks later. Almost immediately, I received an obviously phony email from PP notifying re a large Bitcoin transaction. Appeared to be a Phishing attempt? Idk Tks for the warning and I agree with you, pay attention folks.

No, as I explained to Purloined in my pm, it was to compensate for foolishness,lol. My Lemans only has 7K kms, so everything is mint on it. When I tuned it, I deviated quite a bit from the original settings but I used the PO's set up with the tank vent T'd off to the 2 vacuum ports on the throttle bodies, it ran like a top, but it developed such a major "tank suck" issue, I could barely get the tank lid open to refuel, and once I did the tank sucked in so much and released violently, I was very lucky I didn't crack the paint,,, then the bike would hardly run. I cured the whole issue by cleaning the tank vent holes & following Docc's recommendation and capped the vacuum ports at the TBs and ran a separate tank vent line under my starter cover,,,, it now runs like a champ,,, no tank suck,,, but with one too many lines under it, the old brittle crappy plastic in the starter cover,, cracked and kept cracking,,, I took it off to preserve it. Long term game plan, would be to reinforce whatever starter cover goes back on there with fibreglass/bondo as a backing and spacers and longer bolts to prevent the issue in the future. It looks like Purloined is coming to my rescue

I'll send you a pm, tks very much

I agree, what a confusing clusterph**k. My 2003 Lemans is definitely a long frame with all the bracing,,,no pad on top of the tank, has the plastic trim on the tank from the bolt hole up to the top,,, inside the tank pump assembly,,, but I definitely have that plastic frame shroud covering wires etc behind the steering head. I read the horror story this summer of the owner trying to get the wrong ft wheel bearing seal? to fit,,,, I break into a cold sweat thinking about doing bearing&seal work. With so many variables, I'd be inclined to measure every seal or bearing before ordering,,, but that's a pita if you're doing repair work in riding season.

When I was inside my tranny doing the spring job, I noticed that on the gears,in approx 1-2 cm from the outside teeth area around the circumference,there appeared to be what I would call a "rounded stress radius relief cut", rather than a square edge that could develop stress cracks over time At the time I wondered what function that groove served;now I know. I'm sure there's a proper fancy machinist term for it that Chuck or others would know, I certainly don't,lol. You may not be able to see it,but if you knew the right gears and could squeeze your finger in there, and knew what you were feeling for, I think you could feel it,if it was there. fwiw

Just for shits and giggles I took a look at Guzziology to see what Dave Richardson had to say about the recall (In my edition chapter 10 pgs 27-28. He mentions that not all early 6 speeds were subject to the recall, many early 6 speeds were unaffected?,,,but that out of 50 V11s under their care, the only 2 failures observed were in 2000-2001 bikes. He has a full chart of part numbers, replacements etc etc. Recalled frame Vins fall within these vin series From ZGUKRxxxxYM112131 ZGUKSxxxx1M111111 ZGUKSxxxx1M211111 To ZGUKRxxxxYM114639 ZGUKSxxxx1M111147 ZGUKSxxxx1M211162 He mentions that the recall involved updates to the 3-5 and 4-6 engagement dog rings,and also the output shaft with a change to match. He thinks the metal was probably of better quality/hardening and possibly thicker. He also states the upgraded parts can be identified by a groove around the dog's circumference fwiw

My 2003 Lemans was somewhat similar to this bike you're looking at; it spent most of it's life as garage candy, or in the case of the PO living room candy,only had 7K kms. I know it seems disconcerting that the seller doesn't know much about the bike, but that arms you with knowledge to go in with eyes wide open. I trusted the PO when he told me he had put new tires on it,they did look brand new, the date codes were 17 yrs old when I got the bike home and went over it carefully,so in that respect you're ahead of the game knowing that going into the deal. I'm not familiar with the tranny recall, what's involved and if the parts are available or unobtanium (Is it an early 6 speed or did earlier V11s have the tonti 5 speed and parts more readily available?). If that recall work wasn't done at the time,does that mean it's a boat anchor, or just time and $ to make it right? I've read enough about older recalls with Moto Guzzi to voice this caution,,, I've read of recall work being done and never recorded properly,,,I've also read of claims being made and recorded as recall work being done by unscrupulous dealers who were paid, but the work was never actually done. I know for the hydraulic valve fiasco, having a knowledgeable tech actually look at the bike, was the only 100% guarantee that the necessary work had been performed. Have you seen the documentation for the bike? You're up in the right area, if there was anything indicating it came from Moto International originally,it's more likely that a good dealer like Dave Richardson might have chased the owner down to get the warranty work done, or have it properly registered. You're very lucky that it's local to you

STARTER COVER V11 SPORT SILVER (#01733333) STARTER COVER V11 SPORT - SILVER. ONE ONLY IN STOCK. NLA. $82.81 While searching for CF starter covers (hens teeth) I found one grey? one in Germany used on ebay a little under $150 US iirc, but I stumbled across this silver one at Harpers apparently in stock. I know Curtis has been trying to get his new web site up and running smoothly, so I wouldn't be too confident on it being on the shelf, but if you're the person looking for a silver starter cover, it might be worth your while to give him a call. fwiw

Taking the tank off to service the air filter is a pita,,, but it's a treat changing the filter compared to the old cylinder paper filter on early big block Tontis (Reason why most have K&Ns) If the bike runs good & strong, I think it would be a very personal choice. If you're not bothered that it's not stock and some purists may look down their noses at you for deviating from the design for poorer filtration; Is that a headache you want to take on, or is there possibly some other job that the bike might benefit more from? I remember how simple it sounded when I removed the air box from my Tonti, I'm glad I did it, but it was the job from hell, with a lot of little pieces that had to seal well to work properly. It may look easy to reinstall the stock air box, but there are probably little fastening bits,brackets,boots etc etc, possibly other things have been moved to or installed in that empty space by previous owners as well. fwiw ymmv

The builder obviously has skills, but similarly no taste. A lot of money & work to end up with that mess I think the tank looks like a thing of beauty, but then doing it up in the red pin stripes & turquoise trim The exhaust is admirable & not bad, but I count about 3 different metal finishes/appearances if his design goal was a rat bike appearance he succeeded. A nice ceramikot or similar finish on the exhaust, get rid of all the tacky colors clashing, the cheesy Moto Guzzi labels on the levers/headlight ring,,, & the power commander, it wouldn't be a bad looking bike. ps His pet ferret might fit on that pillion/seat/peg arrangement, but even a young child has longer legs than that. Oh well,,,, different strokes

That's a beautiful looking ride I've been around lots of Ducatis, but I really don't know all the model differences,attributes etc. It looks like it would handle extremely sweet. I'm shocked that a Supersport S 939 has such a relaxed looking, higher bar ergos, is that stock? Please share some of the fine details about it, ie desmo , belts, valves, weight, power etc,,, especially once you put some miles on it. Congrats, wishing you many safe miles and smiles.

I found the video on youtube that I mentioned above, copied in a link below. I don't bother with releasing the fuel pressure first like he does, I just wrap the whole works in a rag to catch any fuel. Thousands of guzzzi owners are indebted to this video poster for solving one of life's greatest mysteries.

Hey Docc, After studying Stewgnu's schematic, I realize that my relays and the wiring connections appear to all be in order. The guzzidiag connection issue might be one of those unsolved mysteries, lol

Hey @stewgnu Thank you so much for taking the time to do such a great job on this schematic,especially the excellent color detail. I was working on my bike getting ready to dive into a possible, relay/wiring nightmare, and I have a severe aversion to electrickery. I had misidentified all my relay locations and couldn't understand why my wiring colors, didn't match your schematic,figured it was just an Italian glitch. But I looked at your schematic long enough to properly identify the relays and confirm that everything was in order,no need to break out the wrenches and dive in any further. Extreme gratitude, very well done Sir

Excellent, tks. From my understanding of the schematic and the info from Roy,,, the little jumper wire I had off and then reconnected was from ECU relay 4 pin 87,,, to Coil/injector? Relay 5 pin 85?. If I reconnected those back incorrectly on the wrong pins,,, would it be possible, that the side stand/neutral switches are still acting normal,,, but somehow Guzzidiag won't connect if the side stand is up,, due to the funky circuits, you had mentioned earlier through the run switch?

1) Yes 2) Yes 3) Yes So Yes to all 3, you're batting a thousand. I'm very curious what your diagnosis is Docc

HHhhmmmm, I know the layout of the relays seem to be different from old to new bikes,,, but I did have a couple of those relays out and a jumper wire disconnected for quite a while. I was intending to run a volt meter by connecting there per KiwiRoy's suggestion,, but I didn't want to mess up the stock wiring so I hardwired a quick disconnect from the battery to my volt meter instead. I'm thinking I probably reconnected that jumper wire between the 2 relay terminals on the wrong contacts. ph#wk, lol,, I'll take a hard look in that area Tks very much,

It's a funky finesse feel kind of thing,that will drive you crazy until you learn it. DON'T go near it with any type of tool,it's crappy brittle plastic,just waiting to break and fall apart. The first time I did the quick disconnect on my CalVin,I danced around it for days,with a variety of tools,very lucky I didn't break anything. The turning point for me was watching a youtube video by a Norge? owner,his first video of the technique was so well received he posted a 2nd one with a closer camera angle,do a search for it,if you're lucky you'll find it. Iirc the motion on the V11 is opposite from the CalVin, but the theory is the same, while supporting the plastic elbow with your left hand so it doesn't break, push or pull the collar just slightly to release the mechanism internally,while keeping that pressure on the collar,just wiggle it gently back/forth slightly and pull the whole thing off. It's instinctive to me now,I can do it with my eyes closed,but until I learned that feel, pull/push/release pressure/wiggle/off,,, I was ready to torch the bike.lol. Hint, don't do it when you're frustrated,come back at it with fresh eyes and patience. A slight spray of WD40 on reassembly helps prevent issues in the future. fwiw ymmv good luck

Hey Docc, Tks very much for the detailed response. My neutral light is working and lights up when it's in neutral. Re the changing CO trim levels due to not saving properly,I've witnessed that myself,this was different. Iirc it was Beetle, that knew for certain,a bike had been set at ie +20 and at a later date the setting of 20 stayed the same, but the + was now a - with a setting of -20. fwiw,idk. From working it, I can tell, the initial owner of my bike was a good involved owner;when I saw the CO trim at -26, I wondered if possibly, with all of the electrical, connecting/disconnecting,I've done & a dead battery by PO,etc had possibly caused a "burp" in the ECU changing it from +26 to -26. Now that I've got the GD connection issue figured out, when I get back into it, I'll play with it a bit and do those 2 tests with the side stand/neutral to see how it responds. Tks very much for your help

"Will the bike start and run in neutral with the stand down? If so, your Run Switch is working fine on the Neutral Switch/relay circuit. There would be no benefit to using the Sidestand Switch instead." "That’s normal. The Clutch Switch only locks out the starter. Once running, it will run in neutral with the stand down?" Hey Docc, In an effort to keep info organized I'm adding this post, hoping that you'll see it and share some insight with me. I struggled like h*ll to get my 2003 V11 Lemans to connect with Guzzidiag to adjust the CO trim. On a whim I tried it with the side stand down and it connected. Imo that's completely counter intuitive, with the side stand down, I thought if anything the safety switch "may" lock out the ignition & GD, but on my bike with the side stand up, clutch pulled in the bike starts and runs, but for some reason, GD won't connect with the side stand up. I saw your a/m posts, re the funky wiring/safety switches and would love to hear your thoughts. Is my bike an anomoly or typical.? Being unable to connect with GD with the side stand up, does that indicate a hidden wiring/connection issue that my flare up and cause me grief? All these funky connection issues that some V11 owners have been reporting, have they solved them mysteriously unaware,by simply putting the side stand down,because that's exactly what I did. While I've got your attention; In my search to cure this issue I stumbled across much info in regards to CO trim levels. I can't remember if it was Beetle,Guzzisteve,Wayne Orwig ?...., but I noted it was someone's opinion that I valued in tuning EFI guzzis; they related that from experience they had witnessed through electrical gremlins that positive CO trim levels, had inverted from initial high positive settings to low negative settings. When I checked my CO trim, it was -26. I'm wondering if that was initially a positive setting. I'm considering +26 as my baseline with my more open breathing leaner tuning set up. I'm running stock air box w bell mouths stretched open a bit, stock headers w crossover, Mistral Cross over, Mistral Carbon Ovals no DbK. My air bypass screws were both seated completely(richer?) I'm following your decent tune up guidelines and have the air bypass screws out one turn (leaner?) After reading much positive feed back from higher CO trim levels, with my set up what are your thoughts? I welcome any input from anybody that has a comment or something I should be thinking about or considering. Tia

Glad to see this thread,because I have a question that I'm hoping generates a good discussion. I've watched many respected guzzistis make the plunge into a variety of Royal Enfield models. I understand someone going for a RE if it's a completely different bike,ie single cylinder ADV or city bike, but I've been surprised at the number of riders that have jumped onto a RE 650 twin rather than a MG V7. For myself; a known product,plus the solid basic engineering of a MG and the lack of chain maintenance are a big draws,what is it about the RE that convinced you to go down that road rather than a small block MG. (Chuck, especially you,with imho,the ultimate small block,the Aero Lario) Are the electronics much simpler,,,fit & finish much higher,,,more comfortable,,,solid engineering,,,,simple valve adjustments,,,,,much lighter weight,,,,,reminds you of the Triumphs & BSAs,you grew up around as a kid,,,etc, etc? The REs are highly respected in my area,and I've always been impressed with the few I've seen in person,but they really haven't made big inroads in the market. Most of the RE dealers seem to be fringe dealers,ie Chinese ATV dealers,scooter dealers etc. Curious to hear your thoughts. tks for starting this Joe

Very interesting. It would've been nice to see the normal msrp in the comparison as well. I noted that the number of timed laps was not consistent between all brands; a true blind test should eliminate all possibilities of partiality. It would be nice to see a similar test on a bike not equipped with ABS,like all of mine are. It was reassuring to read that the Conti RA3 didn't activate the ABS at all on the wet braking test. I interpret that as a higher degree of traction. fwiw idk I can't recall if I've ever ridden on a set of Bridgestones. I "think" I may have removed a set from my V11 that still looked brand new, but the date code was 17 yrs old. MT, tks very much for posting that link & report, good food for thought.