80CX100

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=170_174&products_id=4634 It's always challenging for me to find the right ones on forum searches,because I can never spell Valpolini,correctly the same way twice,lol. There's lot's of info that these in the a/m link are the ones you want. It gets confusing because for some reason MGCycle, never lists them by name,but if you read the product description,they're usually listed as metal core. I've had every possible type of valve cover gasket eventually fail over time,,,knock on wood,,,never these ones. fwiw ymmv

I understood what you were saying,,, the more people that are aware of a possible danger,the better. Tks very much for sharing

@audiomick @p6x Re the poisonous gas created by welding & heat; Guzzimoto has it right it was Phosgene gas;it's probably a typo, but it's created by heating certain types of brake cleaner not fluid. There's a lot of info out there on it's history,toxicity & people who have accidently succumbed to it.

Iirc Toulene may have been part of the mix, idk,I'm not sure. At the time I was considering taking up welding,,, but after reading some of the tragedies; I chose to tempt the reaper in other ways. fwiw

I don't recall the specific chemical or compound in the brake cleaner that became so toxic when heated,,,,, possibly ends with "ene" idk. I had been researching the dangers associated with heating galvanized metal(zinc iirc) and stumbled across a discussion on a forum comprised of welders & blacksmiths. There were quite a few posters who knew welders personally who had died or gotten very sick from the fumes. One of the apparently accepted methods for cleaning off the brake cleaner and making it safer to weld was wiping it off with acetone first,,, I've worked with acetone, I know it's nasty stuff,,,, scary to think that professional welders considered it safer to work with than brake cleaner. fwiw

I don't think it's widely known, but heating or burning brake cleaner fluid/spray in any form can be extremely toxic. I've read of welders, that have died in poorly ventilated areas;from working on metal that had been prepped & cleaned with brake fluid. I think a safer option might be "ether" we call it quick start here. I "think" it will work and it's safe. fwiw idk

With the bike idling,spray something like WD40 all around the intake boots;if they're leaking you should hear the engine increase in speed. I'm only a recent convert to Docc's magical rubber restorer aka as Honda's Shin-Etsu grease; I'm now putting a light coating rubbed in with a tooth brush on all rubber pieces I hope to preserve rather than replace in the future;seems good so far,time will tell. If you do the WD40 spray/idle test and there's no increase in engine speed & no visible cracks or damage; I'd apply some Shin-Etsu & verify fit & tightness & call it good. A lot of poor running/coughing issues have been cured by doing a decent tune up & making sure all of the vents & plumbing are clear & working properly. fwiw ymmv

Hey Docc, I've also read of experienced techs using GD on smaller/simpler tablet devices,,, the fine working details are above my paygrade. I know this isn't your first rodeo,preaching to the choir I'm sure;but for the benefit of others that might be reading; depending on how remote a setting you'll be at,,, electrical power supply/chargers to keep bikes & devices,charged & working right for repeated use,is also something to keep in mind. fwiw

Hey Bob; I don't have the specific paint codes for the black V11 Lemans, but I've snagged this paint code info for various Guzzis posted by Mike Haven of MPH back in the day. Some of them are black and are likely a match;which ones idk. I know the black on my California Vintage "looks like a real black" The black on my V11 Lemans in certain light conditions; "looks more like a greyish black" the black on the fairing "looks blacker" than the black on the rest of the body work,tank,side covers etc,fwiw. What the black Brevas,Sports,Norges etc look like irl,could they be a match idk. I've also included a variety of links on the bottom. Some of them,apparently have online databases of paint codes listed for some guzzi models. You might want to rip through their info in case your bike is listed. Fwiw, Good Luck Paint codes are a national secret. You wont be getting any calls back. I secured this list a few years ago after much badgering. its incomplete, but all there is COLOR CODES: NORGE 1200 BLACK - BASF GE22-9659 RED - 5.4D.23441 AKZO NOBEL <<pic29436.jpg>> <<pic21654.jpg>> GRAY - (Embedded image moved to file: pic29436.jpg) 1200 SPORT BLACK - 5.4M.22705 AKZO NOBEL RED - 5.4D.23441 AKZO NOBEL BREVA 1100 BLACK - 5.4M.22705 AKZO NOBEL GRAY - 928XV374 PALINAL RED - 5.4D.23441 AKZO NOBEL ORANGE - DS.08046 LECHLER WHITE - BIANCO DIAMANTE: SCHOCH: 610.PM02 ASCO-BASECOAT PERLATO BIANCO BREVA 850 2007 GRIGIO EXCALIBUR (Grey excalibur) : SCHOCH 675 ALP11-1/3675-003560 GRISO 1100 BLACK - 5.4M.22705 AKZO NOBEL RED - 5.4D.23441 AKZO NOBEL LGHT BLUE - DS02096 LECHLER YELLOW - DS02138 LECHLER ORANGE - ARANCIO SATINATO :SCHOCH 3610-010805 PALINAL 923MAT3 NEVADA I.E. GRAY - GRIGIO LUCE - DS02074 LECHLER (+ 928XV051 PALINI for fuel tank stripe) BLACK - NERO GUZZI - 5,4M.22705 AKZO NOBEL (+ 928XH913 PALINI for fuel tank stripe) RED - ROSSO DEL LARIO - 66051 LECHLER (+ 5.4M.22705 AKZO NOBEL for fuel tank stripe) RED 06 - ROSSO LDS08040 LECHLER BLACK 06 - NERO GUZZI 929R486 PALINAL or 54M22705 AKZO NOBEL YELLOW 06 - GIALLO 08048 LECHLER WITHE-BLUE 06 - BIANCO MICA DS08042 LECHLER - BLUE MIDNIGHT: DS08039 LECHLER BREVA 750 BLACK - NERO OLLARE - 928 XH 913 PALINI or 57E80806 AKZO NOBEL GRAY - GRIGIO PIOMBO: AKZO 57E 85804 or PALINI 928 XH 644 + TRASP. LUCIDO 923 HS 90 ROSSO BREVA (2001) - Palini 928 XH 900 + TRASP. LUCIDO 923 HS 90 RED RACE- ROSSO GUZZI - 5.4D-23441 AKZO NOBEL BLACK 06/07 - NERO GUZZI - 54M22705 AKZO NOBEL LIGHT BLUE 06 - AZZURRO- DS02096 LECHLER WHITE 06 - BINACO MICA - DS08042 LECHLER CALIFORNIA 06 RED - ROSSO - LECHLER LDS08040 BLACK - NERO PALINAL 929R486 or ARDESIA AKZO NOBEL 54 M 22.710 WHITE/GRAY - BIANCO LECHLER LDS08040 / GRIGIO LECHLER LDS08043 VINTAGE - NERO PALINAL 929R486 or ARDESIA AKZO NOBEL 54 M 22.710 CALIFORNIA 07 RED - ROSSO - LECHLER LECHLER LS 66013 NERO PALINAL 929R486 O ARDESIA AKZO NOBEL 54 M 22.710 (Embedded image moved to file: pic21654.jpg) http://www.qnetonline.nl/LESEW/SearchForm/Manufacturer http://www.qnetonline.nl/LESEW/SearchForm/Manufacturer http://www.mgcn.nl/index.php/mg-paint-codes-dameijer-database-40 http://www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/colours.php#makeid=98&modelid=2919&prodyear=2001&colourscheme=8192 http://www.color-rite.com/ http://moto-guzzi.motoeuropa.it/moto/guzzi/Colori-moto-guzzi-1986.pdf http://www.mgcn.nl/index.php/mg-paint-codes-dameijer-database-40

When I tackled the U joint grease nipples,the bike was up on a lift,the rear wheel removed and the bike supported by a wheel chock,Becker & scissor jack lifts. Do the front bolt on the reaction control arm while the rear wheel is off; major pita doing it with the wheel installed,btdt. I know there's a wheel's off checklist;just off the top off my head,I'd be checking the brake caliper,possibly bleed it & the clutch,might consider installing a remote clutch bleeder. Idk if there were changes in the spec or design of the collars & nipples; but I'm sure that subtle differences from different suppliers over the model years may have an effect IRL for the end user. fwiw good luck

The very first guzzi tune up & fueling balance I ever did,was on my CX100. That bike has a "country clutch";the clutch grabbiness on that bike decreased immensely,after the fueling was balanced. Just a WAG,but if your basic tune & balance is way off; it probably adds to the grabbinesss. The prospect of some of the finer details can be intimidating, but tuning these guzzis so they're running sweet, is one of life's greatest pleasures. fwiw ymmv

Each bike & owner are unique. I "think" because guzzis are such beautiful, emotionally satisfying pieces of rolling mechanical art, there are many people quite content to park them in the garage,,, look at them or start them occasionally,but have no inclination/desire/intention of diving in and doing what it takes to make them reliable riders. I came vary close recently,to buying a "sight unseen" Norge, it was relatively low mileage,well farkled,cheap,aaannnnnddddd in my favorite faster colour. lol The owner/seller had owned the bike for 3 yrs;although he was an old guzzisti,he never really rode the bike. When I quizzed the owner about known Norge issues;he was oblivious to them,but was emphatic that he checked the oil regularly changing it every year. When examined in person,I noted that this 16 yr old Norge never had the lack of a hole in the fairing lower addressed,,, After 16 yrs of ownership by POs;there was still no easy way to check & add oil,, Hidden issues like single plate clutches,recall trannies,flattie 4Vs, etc;would be very easy for a lot of owners to overlook,,,perhaps not by you or I fwiw ymmv

Reserve not met on 7/10/23 at $5,200 Jul 10 at 2:46 PM $5,200 bid placed by BlackRifle Jul 10 at 2:45 PM $4,800 bid placed by Eltoc Jul 10 at 2:43 PM $4,700 bid placed by BlackRifle Wow,very interesting auction,,,, It looked like someone was getting a bargain,,, a higher reserve never crossed my mind. One of the comments mentioned that it was easily a $6K bike,,, seems like at least the seller believes that.

When I previously replied to this topic, I said I recalled installing EBC pads,but could only find blue Brembos in my parts stash, so I assumed I had on Brembo Blues,,,, it's because i think the EBCs are on the bike, I just went through some parts receipts for my V11 Lemans and it appears I used EBC Kevlar Organics. fwiw ymmv

Hey Docc, Tks for doing such a great job documenting this challenging bit of maintenance. Fwiw, I'm sure there are many different cheap rotating flexible grease gun tips out there. I partially disassembled the adapter to make it work for me;It looks you & guzziglide used it "as purchased" Whatever works.

It sounds like the issue is relatively minor,if simply warming it up & riding it for a while cures it. Is it because air in the line is expanding, giving you fuller motion on the clutch push rod and bleeding might cure it? Is it because surface contamination on the clutch plates is scuffed/burnt off with use & a rinse might cure it? Combination of both or something else completely? gstallons post reminded me of some of the finer details of my slipping clutch cure. After I had done a couple of paint thinner rinses, I took it for a test ride;it was still slipping a little. While the clutch plates were wet from the solvent,I found a quiet back road, and in lower gears, ie,2,3 as I gently rolled on the throttle,I rapidly fanned the clutch many times, 10-15,literally abusing the clutch as much as I could;I repeated that clutch abuse 3-4 more times. That apparently scuffed & cleaned up the surface of the clutch plates enough to cure the problem;it hasn't slipped since. fwiw ymmv

Idk what all the fine differences are between the Spine frame 6 spd and Tonti 5 spd set ups;but I've cured a slipping clutch issue with the paint thinner rinse bodge. Shortly after I got my new to me 2008 CalVin, I noticed the clutch slipping when I really pushed it hard in higher gears. A PO had overfilled the tranny;probably just dumped in a full litre bottle of gear oil. Dumped the oil,put in the right amount,then rinsed the clutch plates a couple of times with paint thinner (Lots of info out there on methods). Clutch has worked fine ever since. fwiw

Once I started long hard rides,on my new to me 2003 Lemans; the bike suffered severe tank suck issues. The symptoms can vary from subtle & sublime,to sudden & severe like mine. After the first long hard ride & refueling while out on the roads;I had a violent release of tank vacuum pressure when I opened the lid on the gas tank to add fuel. My bike would hardly run for the ride home; While your tank is off,verify the two vents under the cap(guitar strings are perfect to use) & the lines that attach to them are open & verify the routing of the plumbing. A PO had plumbed my tank vent lines through a T fitting into the vacuum fittings on the throttle bodies. I eliminated the T & re-routed my lines open to atmosphere & capped the vacuum ports at the TBs. The bike now runs perfect. fwiw ymmv good luck ps While you're looking at it & because it's a known to cause problems,verify the wire bullet plug connections for the clutch switch on the left side of the frame/steering head.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-motorcycle-other/edmonton/2014-moto-guzzi-norge-1200-gt-for-parts/1661665072?undefined I noticed this recycler business, parting out a 2014 Norge in Alberta,Canada. If you need rare/expensive parts for a CARC bike,might be worth looking at. Almost worth taking a peek at the ad just to admire how beautiful a Norge can be in lime green, omfg! I just realized the vomit in the emoji is a similar shade of green,lol.

Idk exactly how much gas gets consumed & mileage figures etc;but what I can say for certainty,is that like all my guzzis,I get decent range & mpg on my V11 Lemans. My last ride was a hard fast run, up to the top of Opeongo mountain & back home 235 kms. Idk how much gas is left in the tank,it was full when I started,& the fuel warning light was just lighting up as I wheeled the bike into the garage. fwiw, ymmv, literally

Check,check & recheck,that the relays are snugged in tight to their mounts. I noticed a few times when the seat was off,that my 2nd relay from the front appeared off kilter and not firmly pressed into place;I thought that I was hitting it with my arm or something when I was moving stuff around. It turns out,there seems to be interference with one of the reinforcing splines molded into the bottom of my seat pan,it has to slide down into a narrow empty space beside the relays. My ITI black face tach stopped working the other day and after reading horror stories about over charging and gauge failures,I was prepared for the worst;but when I removed the seat to verify the fuses,that same relay was a little loose and I could see the interference with the seat pan. Connections all verified and the seat replaced very carefully,the tach has come back to life and all seems good. fwiw

There have been reports that when fresh gear oil is put in the rear drive unit, as the fluid & air get hot & expands,it can be enough to blow seals over time; That's why some people recommend burping the rear end shortly after the first good heat cycle.(I do it out of habit) A vent cap or tube precludes the need for "burping"

Hey CDR & everyone else on this thread,sorry I'm slow replying,been busy on a few things,,,including a good thrashing of my Lemans,lol I definitely defer to your obvious knowledge & expertise,sounds like a win/win. Tom gets the input spline he needs and I get the wrench I need. Tks very much for taking the time to provide photos & a detailed explanation. CDR,replying to your pm very shortly to work out the details

I've heard rumors that well known Guzzisti Guru,Dave Richardson,former owner of Moto International in Seattle Washington;the author of "Guzziology" & recently "My Life in Bikes", is working on a film documentary. "Spineless in Seattle"

Hey Docc tks for confirming my memory of things;you're right I just confirmed with Dave Richardson's "Guzziology" & if that's what they're calling an input spline,it can be used to align the new clutch plates going on. Hey CDR "I want it" I'll send you a pm to work out the details. Tks very much