Weegie
-
Posts
379 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by Weegie
-
-
1 hour ago, Voldav said:
@Weegee - in starting to test the voltages - am I right in using a multimeter set to 20v and then place across the neg/pos of fuse holder ?
I'll come back to you both with some pics - most likely tomorrow eve
Thanks again
David
Hi David
@docc is great & very helpful, as you can see from my bikes on the signature I don't own a V11 but have a Sporti (its older brother in some respects)
Anyway, set your multimeter to 20V DC (as you've said) and put the negative lead onto the engine casings or the battery negative and leave it there (a crocodile clip is handy to do this). Place the positive lead onto the point where you want to measure voltage. Check for volts at either side of the fuses.
If you place the positive and negative at either side of the fuse you will always measure 0 Volts regardless of the voltage at the fuse. A meter measures voltage difference, not absolute values. There will be almost no voltage difference across the fuse, so the meter will read 0 Volts (or very close), no matter the actual voltage at the fuse, 12V-12V=0V & 0V-0V=0V.
I'm not trying to be facetious, just trying to make it clear why, I've been caught out that way too, it's easy to get confused.
I'm placing my bet on the ignition switch being faulty, so the first thing to do is to find out if you have voltage on the red wire going into the switch. Same procedure as for the fuses, negative lead on the casings positive lead onto the connector/wire.
If you don't have voltage there then check the fuses.
If you do have voltage on the red wire at the ignition then check the wires coming out of the switch.
With the ignition switch ON, from the diagram I'm using there are 2 wires to check a pink/blue and a grey/red. If volts on red but none on the other 2 you need to get the switch out and from other threads on here it can be taken apart, cleaned and regreased.
As no V11, for me (for now) I don't how easy or hard that is to do
Be interested to see what you get and looking forward to the pics
John
-
2
-
-
Hi @Voldav
I don't own a V11 but looking at an early wiring diagram to see if I can help (a little), with 8 fuses in the fusebox. The wiring changed a bit as time went on with the V11 models, which is confusing.
When you say there is no voltage at the ignition switch which wire are you testing?
I ass-ume you've tested/replaced the fuses, but if there is a fault of some sort and you replace a fuse a new one will just immediatley blow as well. So you need to check the fuses aren't blowing before moving onto the next problem. I'm also assuming the battery is good and not completley discharged (it happens), so obvious as it is (forgive me for suggesting) but first check the battery voltage and ensure the battery ground is good.
There is a black/yellow wire fed directly from the battery to fuses 4 & 5. The other side of fuse 4 then runs to the ignition switch a maroon or red wire, that wire is not switched, so it's live all the time no matter the position of the ignition switch.
The first thing I'd check is the fusebox, do you have voltage on fuses 4 & 5, if not then it's a problem with the black yellow feed from battery to fusebox. If you do have voltage on these fuses (check both sides), but no voltage at the switch on the red wire then the problem lies between the fusebox and the ignition switch.
There appears to be a 4 way AMP connector, probably close to the switch, in the line as well, so that's also worth taking a look at.
A bad Reg/Rec can cause sometimes result in a parasitic drain, as I remember if it's damaged. The feed for the charging circuit is through Fuse 3, it's 30 Amp, I've not heard of one causing a short. If testing you can remove fuse 3, to take the charge circuit out the picture, when testing at the ignition switch and that would stop any short through it. I don't think that's a problem but it's an easy thing to do.
That's a start, if you have power to the switch then we can try to move on from there
Can you give us any more details of what are the symptons
John
-
-
1
-
-
-
Ahh my bad then if it doesn't apply.
Took a look at Carl Allison's diagram for a V11 Sport Catalytic (whatever that is) and it shows both left and right indicator bulbs, in that case an LED would work as both the bulb warning indicators are simply tied to a common ground/frame on the neg side.
-
1
-
-
Not answering you're question @Grim, but does the indicator warning LED light for both indicator directions? I ask as it looks like the V11 wiring uses the same half assed indicator wiring as on my Sport and installing an LED without bi-directional circuitry won't work (I think).
With the OEM setup the current direction through the warning light, reverses with the physical direction (i.e. Left or Right) selected. The setup relies on earthing the warning light through the other indicator circuit. As the current through the warning bulb is low it's not sufficient to light the indicators on the non selected side.
As an LED can only pass current in one direction, unless it has additional cricuitry installed, the indicator warning light will only work for one direction.
There are LEDs that have additional circuitry built in to cope with this, but you need them if you want the indicator warning to work for both left and right sides
Just a thought
-
2
-
-
10 hours ago, Scud said:
My fault - I was describing the removal of the oil filter housing, which also has the pressure relief valve in it. What I wrote earlier has nothing to do with removing the pump itself.
I'll go back and edit those posts - cuz that was a dumb thing I wrote.
Heh Scud I hope no offence is taken, not dumb merely a slip
I wouldn't even have mentioned it, had p6x not agreed with your post and I thought it might confuse the OP
I'm the last one to "cast a stone" when it comes to dumb, I still cringe at my "howlers" and maturity has done little to improve the situation
John
-
2
-
-
I don't own a V11 so excuse my ignorance, but I've got a couple of points here one of which puzzle me.
@Scud said remove the oil pump how you can remove the pump with 4 bolts from the sump? I thought it lived in the timing chest and would take a lot more than 4 bolts. What am I missing?
Oil pressure will not be instantaneous if the sump has been drained and the engine turned over on the starter with the plugs removed, after a refill, it will take time for the system to fill, even with a prefilled filter.
I agree that with a filled primed engine oil pressure will be (more or less) instantaneous
I'd definately not try to run or even start the engine until I found and fixed the fault. Running the engine without oil pressure will damage the big ends in short order, possibly scoring the journals then you're looking at a possible crank regrind (expensive and that's best case). Remove the plugs, to reduce big end loading and pull the injection relay to stop running the pump or energising the coils and spin it on the starter
You could inspect the big end shells and journals, as you stated you ran the bike with low pressure for a few blocks.
If I was in your position, I'd do the easy stuff first though, oil filter gasket and tightness, sump gasket integrity, probably check the PRV as it's right there anyway. After doing that I'd refill it and do a spin test on the starter with a gauge, if that doesn't work out, then I'd start to delve deeper, big end damage, pump inspection etc:
Somebody suggested doing a static pressure test on the switch, but most folks don't have a static pressure tester available, or even a fitting with the correct threads to test it with a bicycle or car tyre pump.
Scud's offer is generous and it's what I'd do after the inspection work already suggested
To try to give the OP some idea, here is a HiCam engine after being drained and refilled. The oil pressure will not be as high as seen in the clip.
I posted to give some sort of clue of what you would see after a fill and a primed oil filter. Note that it takes a short time for the system to prime and once oil pressure starts come up, its pretty rapidly established. I'd expect to see somewhere around 60psi give or take, but as @p6x has stated perhaps on the V11 it's closer to 70psi
-
2
-
1
-
-
6 hours ago, Kane said:
That is some beautiful work! Wow. What’s going on with the alternator? And what exactly is a Sfida 1000?
Thank you but if I had to do it again, I'd do a few things differently, but (touches wood) the bike has been reliable and nothing has melted
Just Google Magni to find out about the family and the bikes, based up near Milan, produce small numbers of bikes in their own custom frames. Their most succesful partnership was with Guzzi, who provided all the engines, transmissions, running gear and electrics and then placed them in their own frames and restyled the bikes to their own design, with an MV influence. Arturo Magni's history was as the race engineer for MV. Magni is best known for the parallelogram swinging arm, which elimates the shaft jack or crawl on the Tonti bikes. TBH you have to be really hammering them to notice any difference, but they do handle extremely well, considering the weight.
As Marty said that bike uses the LM 1000 running gear, I've added a few farkles and reduced its value, but I don't really care as I love to ride it, it's a lot of fun. There's a pic of the bike in the "Show us Yer Tontis" thread
https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/6494-show-us-yer-tontis/page/17/
As far as the alternator face in the video it's using a PUREG system developed by Volker Sachse https://www.elektronik-sachse.de/shopsystem-3/en/ his family I believe have kept the business running. Volker was killed in a motorcycle accident a good few years back and is sorely missed by me.
The PUREG is a Reg/Rec placed onto the face of the Bosch alternator and is slightly more efficient than the OEM offering. In addition the PUREG has the ignition system combined into it, that's the plate you can see spinning and the flashing LEDs. The trigger is an optical system using a wasted spark, the wasted spark occurs 360 degrees out of phase from when the cylinder needs a spark, so little chance of blowback into the carbs. There is a second box buried in the frame tubes, which controls the advance and contains circuitry for the ignition and coils. Its been very reliable and I've never required to retime it after initial setting, except once but that's because I was doing something else and had to remove the trigger.
Nuff about me, I only posted to show that a complete numpty can do it, it's not hard
BACK ONTO TOPIC!!!
John
-
2
-
1
-
-
Hi Cliff
Sorry yeah difficult to communicate with a limited character set. The US generally use American Wire Gauge (AWG) sizing where here in Europe (if the UK is in Europe anymore?) generally tend to use conductor cross sectional area (CSA) usually in millimeteres square, that's what the mm^2 was meant to get across.
Lots of tables on the web going between AWG and CSA so it's easy enough to convert from one to the other.
Once you get to it perhaps PM me or just post up what you're planning and I'll see if I can help or have any ideas (I'm no expert)
I think I posted this up already (flagrant self promotion warning), but here was/is the Sfida 1000 just after I refreshed it a bit.
I custom rewired, the original loom was shockingly bad and hacked about (by me
and others). Used an M-Unit (pricey) and Sasche PUREG (combined Reg/Rec and ignition system), little sections of the rewire can be seen in the vid.
John
-
4
-
1
-
-
My pleasure, I meant to add generally the terminals come in 3 sizes, you'll have seen the insulated type in red and blue, there is a third yellow.
Red is small, 1.5^2 nominal, I use for cable up to 2mm^2
Blue is med, 2.5^2 nominal, I use that for 2-3mm^2
Can't remember yellow but it's never used on motorcycles, for something like 3.5mm^2 which is never used, or I've never seen it on a bike.
The non insulated I think are the best, are usually sized according to CSA or AWG so easy to choose what you need
There's lots of other stuff out there too, but you usually need tools to use it and if it's a one off it's just not worth it. Neoprene (aka Hellerman) sleeve are great but heat shrink works just as well and doesn't need the tool.
For sleeving you have a few choices, take a look here for some choices
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/66
Solid PVC sleeve keeps the cables clean, but a bit fiddly when routing cabling in and out
I like the expandable netting type, as you can fish cables through it then use heat shrink on the end to tidy it.
Spiral wrap doesn't look as nice but you can take it off easily and fish cables in and out and it's easier to see damaged cable.
Anyway I need to go and get a life
John
-
2
-
1
-
-
That's an interesting result Chuck, so prefilling the filter made no difference.
I don't doubt what you're saying but cannot think why a prefilled filter would not register pressure quicker than an empty filter, unless the pump is so powerful it fills the filter in negligable time.
Usually takes around 3 spins, usually around 3-4 seconds each time. This is on the starter with the plugs removed, I don't think it's radically different from the Sporti. That's after a complete drain and then refill with new oil. Starting the bike anytime after that I'll get pressure immediatley.
The HiCam pressure problem was the PRV and the (still) hot running engine. I'm getting 60psi in clear air now running a 15/50 full synthetic oil temp is 105-110C roughly, I've only glanced at the temp gauge and need to get a more definitive figure.
I could raise the pressure by going to 10/60 but that's a last resort. I want to try and install a larger cooler first to run cooler with my exisitng oil grade.
Anyway I've got thread on that whole issue so I won't drag this one OFF TOPIC, anymore.
-
Not an expert calling @Kiwi_Roy over!!!!
I've done a few wiring schemes from scratch but never an FI bike. My own experience is to go all metal non insulated crimp, with the separate plastic/rubber? covers. When I've used insulated crimps in the past they have tended to far less secure.
Tool I use most is a Hozan, but they cost more than most would want to pay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154467327618?epid=1176468703&hash=item23f6f85e82:g:fWcAAOxydINSYQHq
Also used something similar to these, with Ok results (not that particular tool, just one similar to it)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303350208172?hash=item46a114d6ac:g:6lUAAOSwUYRdwSyP
Stay away from this style of crimper
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274595599743?hash=item3fef2c557f:g:w-0AAOSwPbBfxPS5
For multi connectors I use AMP style Superseal, but again these need another tool to crimp.............search around if you're only doing this once maybe a generous soul will loan you tools or assist. If you were in the UK I'd loan you some of my tools that you'd probably only use once if it's a custom. Guzzi owners seem to be a reliable, solid bunch and anything I've loaned has always been returned with much thanks
As far as wire you can usually get away with only a few sizes, use thinwall insulated cable, it carries a higher current for a given CSA. Run control cabling in 0.5 or 1mm^2 thinwall and power cable (for the majority of components, obviously not things like the starter or main battery terminals) 2mm^2 thinwall and you should be fine
You can purchase HeatShrink in packs of varying lengths and diameters, useful for sealing connectors if you're OCD and covering wiring splices if required.
@docc pointed out to me that the V11 has 2 looms one for the ECU/FI side and then another for the rest. I'd asses the FI side, it it's in reasonable nick I'd leave it alone, besides it's far less likey to have been tampered with.
My approach is spec what you want to do
Draw up or get a wiring diagram to cover what you're doing, so you have a clear plan
Purchase cabling/connectors/sleeving etc: based on the above
Layout the wiring onto the bike running all of it first, then sleeve, then terminate. I've had wiring all laid out then changed my mind quite often, so don't terminate until the end.
Nothing particularly difficult it's just a lot of the same sorta shit but repeated. Like a wiring diagram they look daunting, but it's just a lot of info packed into the one sheet.
I'm sure others are far more qualified than me and if KiwiRoy shows up listen to him above all!!!!!
-
2
-
3
-
-
5 hours ago, LowRyter said:
(everyone here knows more than I do)
Heh @LowRyter I would not place any cash on that bet (thinking of myself before anybody takes the hump)
I can't say for sure as I don't own a V11 but if the filter has been filled with oil it still takes approx 10-15 seconds on my sport for the oil pressure to start coming up, a good bit longer if you don't.
Once pressure is established the oil pressure will register as soon as the bike cranks as @Lucky Phil has said, well it does on my Sporti and HiCam, both broadsump bikes.
I don't know but if you had leakage at the Gasket on the pump suction side, could that result in a failure of the pump self priming?
The oil pump is a possibility, but if it was me it would be the last thing I'd be looking at.
It sounded to me like a recurrent issue that's gradually got worse over time and from later posts I took it as the bike was not establishing oil pressure, from the checks completed.
The only thing I'd add as was already said (by LowRyter I think) would be checking the woodruff key on the oil pump sprocket, but that's a longshot and near the bottom of the list. Again I can't remember the 2 v/v set up but on the HiCam a taper on the shaft is the main mechanism binding the pump to the sprocket.
Unless I can think of anything else I'm about done here, OP has to check the sump and the internals to rule out the obvious first then move on from there
-
19 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:
It seems unlikely, but has anyone ever seen a broken spring or trash holding the pressure regulator open? I've seen it in automotive before, if rarely.
As long as we've opened the 'unlikely scenario' can of worms, has anyone ever seen a sheared oil pump key, where the sprocket remained in place but loose from the pump?Never heard of a spring being broken in the PRV, but if @Nihontochicken does remove the internals in the broadsump spacer it's a pretty easy thing to check (providing he has a big enough wrenches)
I've only heard of Woodruff keys coming loose by one or two others on a forum & can neither remember where or recall the circumstances.
I've had to change a few Woodruff keys and the ease with which they install has varied from bloody difficult to frighteningly easy. I remember being nervous about it when replacing one on the Hi Cam for the oil pump
-
I also think that's an UFI, AFAIK all Guzzis of that era use the same filter, earlier bikes used a shorther filter.
Quite a lot of black material on the plug, but as Phil stated depends on how often it was cleaned at each change, so I wouldn't "have kittens" over the state of it. Pan looks good to me.
Remove the filter and check the gasket could be damaged, not there, or there could be 2 in place, wouldn't be the first time.
Next is to check the paper sump gaskets are good. Perhaps my OCD and others might disagree, but I'd drop out the internals, 4 cap screws, 2 at the front and 2 at the rear, once they're out, pull the internal rearwards to disnegage the 2 stub pipes to the oil cooler take off. Check where the internals mate to the crankcase for the oil feed and return, inside the pan, and ensure the gasket there is good and flat, I've seen them warped and torn. Check the O ring condition of the stub pipes, I don't think their condition would rob you of all pressure, but if they were damaged it certainly wouldn't help.
So far no smoking gun, but nothing horrendously bad either, fingers crossed.
-
1
-
1
-
-
Yeah as docc said, you'd normally use the drain plug anyway before trying to remove that cover. If you just removed the filter cover with the sump full of oil unless you had a big catch can underneath it'd get very very messy................no don't ask me how I know.
Just my opinion but I wouldn't try to undo that plate anyway, perhaps under normal servicing yes, but you need to drop the sump and check the gaskets anyway.
If that access plate is like the ones on the HiCams and Sportis be careful, it's on a pretty fine thread and it's stupidly easy to damage it. Not so much when removing but when putting it back onto the sump.
-
2
-
-
So I don't know if your continuity check on the yellow wire was a mistake or that wire really was grounded.
If it was/is grounded, you'll have blown fuse 6 and won't have instrument lights, tail light or number plate in addition to the city light
I asked about the instrument lighting as it's tied in directly to the same circuit as the city light.
Might be worth checking Fuse 6 and also if you have a tail light......................just a thought
-
2
-
1
-
-
Oh for goodness sake cut the guy some slack. The OP freely admits he's has some difficulty with electrics, which is far from uncommon.
While I agree with the sentiments that solid wire isn't a good idea, he needs to have the bike running to get to work so probably grabbed what he had available and jury rigged a fix.
If I was in that position and needed a "bodge" until I could address the issue properly I would have, most likely, done the same. The only difference being I'd have made a loop by bending the solid wire end around and possibly whacked it with a hammer to flatten it to get better continuity. I'd have also run it onto the engine or frame, relying on current passing through the headstock bearings can be hit and miss.
I agree with @docc yellow is the city light positive, looking at the wiring diagram, I'm surprised that fuse 6 didn't blow when the lights were turned on as a positive supply is then being grounded.
Do you have instrument lights on the speedo and tacho?
Black is the ground as already confirmed.
If your checking continuity the yellow would show resistance as it has to pass through the bulb (around 36 Ohms, if my shocking arithmetic is correct)
-
1
-
1
-
-
Hi Kevin
I hope @innesa doesn't get mad at me replying and throwing this OFF TOPIC, but the issue is now sorted, so hope not.
The fairing is probably not as enclosing as it looks, it's totally open at the front and then there are the front vents to left and right, one can be seen in that picture. The fairing also sits off the engine casings by quite a way. Towards the rear though the bellypan is very close to crossover, I put some silver heat reflective padding in there, so far so good.
Getting back to the specific question that picture was taken when I first got the bike, the pipes now are ceramic coated on the inside and also have a black coating on the outer. I did that specifically to try to reduce radiated heat from the pipes impacting the fairing, of course it's a double edged blade as you prevent that heat escaping through the pipes from the heads, which is desirable. Guess its a case of dammed if you do, dammed if you don't. At the time I got the pipes coated I was not aware of just how hot my HiCam ran.
So far nothing has melted nor any of the inner paint on the fairing, shown signs of discolouration due to heat. That's sort of surprised me as I was dubious to how the fairing would stand up to the heat.
Just to increase the inherant unreliability I swapped the locations of the fuel filter and fuel pump, this was to install the oil cooler I currently have in place,. Long story but with the way the brackets are at the front its difficult to keep the pump at the front. This means the fuel pump is in between the cylinder Vee, so far its kept working, I guess the fuel moving through it must have stopped it cooking (so far)
My original plans were to keep this bike completely stock, but sod it come the winter I've got some plans for it, nothing drastic, but some changes. For instance I dislike the standard Bembos, too much lever movement and not much feel. I'll probably move to the ISRs at the front installed on the other bikes, 2 finger braking and very progressive.
John
-
I know nothing of Power Commanders, it always seemed to my mind they were a sticking plaster fix, perhaps not, but I've always been suspicious of them.
Sounds to me like what @docc has already pointed out, the plate needs to completely close. Fouling on the body or throttle plate (sometimes called a butterfly) or the RH throttle stop screw not being backed off, may be causing the odd readings. Lightly opening the plate and allowing it to snap close a few times also helps, (don't go mad). The connecting rod needs to be disconnected too (pointed out as well). Personally I have the RH throttle stop screw completely backed out and only use the LH stop screw when adjusting the system.
The TPS can (will?) move when tightening, snapping the throttle plate closed a few times will help confirm its set up right, you'll get slightly different readings every time you open and close the plate, but as long as it's in spec, I'm happy.
I've seen reports that there can be a difference between the readings when the engine is running. Mine has always been Ok, I guess battery condition might have an affect, but that's just a guess
Setting the TPS is the very first move
This is just how I understand the system, I've been wrong in the past and excuse me if I'm teaching my granny..............
The TPS is an input to the fuel map, it will alter the fuel flow sent to both TBs.
Once its set correctly then you adjust the throttle plates to ensure both bodies are flowing the same amount of air, because no matter what the airflow to each body is, they will still both be getting the same amount of fuel from the ECU. Close the Air bypass screws and adjust to get balance using the linkage connecting rod, I check at 3k RPM.
When that's done adjust the idle via the throttle stop screw (I just use the left one)
Finally adjust the airbypass screw to balance the idle airflow, you might then might have to readjust the idle, but its usually just a one shot. If I've done it right, then air bypass screw adjustment only has a small affect on the idle rpm.
Personally I wouldn't be too bothered about the stuck air bypass screw. Preferable if you can get it move, but not worth damaging the throttle body, as you're achieving good balance at high RPM and idle.
At higher RPM the airbypass screws do little, they are there to balance the airflow to each body at idle, once you have good balance at higher rpm by adjustment of the linkage rod length. They are too small to make a significant impact at higher RPM, besides if it's stuck it's probably completely closed and been screwed home by a shaved ape.
Don't get overly caught up in trying to dial it all in until it's absolutely perfect, you'll go nuts.
IMHO if the bike is idling fine and pulling well, I'm happy with it, during a service or in the Winter I might check it, but that's about all. I only mess with it when something is amiss, rough running, bad flat spot, persistant stalling etc:
-
1
-
-
Phil is spot on, you'll find some misleading info, not only in the manual, but on my Sporti and HiCam bikes the wiring is different
The best way is to check it as suggested or at least confirm wiring colours.
I "think" on the Sport it's the outside wires, on the HiCam it's one of the outsdie wires and the middle, adjacent to each other.
Loving @po18guy s setup very nice. Being the cheap and lazy sod I am I use a paper clip up the back of the plug to read the voltage
-
2
-
-
You've got all the "gen" from minds better than mine.
I'd drop the pan and check the filter and gaskets as suggested then put a gauge on it that @Scud has kindly offered a loan of. One of the reasons I love Guzzi ownership, I can't think of more generous crowd willing to help strangers out with insight or special tools etc: etc:
When checking the pressure after the pan's been re-enstated, I'd remove the plugs (to reduce bearing load and help it spin faster) and pull the injection relay to stop the fuel pump and the coils being energised. Turn it over on the starter, in several 4 or 5 second bursts. It'll take a 10-15 seconds or so for the supply to prime then you should see the pressure shoot up on the gauge to somewhere between 50-60psi.
-
4
-
-
Ok do you have Will's email?
I'll drop it to you on a PM
You could then ask him directly for the full story in more depth if that's what you need
30 amp fuse
in Technical Topics
Posted
When you're ready David
Looks like I've lost my bet then
Trouble shooting electrics, looks horible at first, way too many wires on the bike and lines on the diagram. As you get to grips with how it works though it becomes (a little) clearer. The downside is that some of Guzzi's wiring philosophy is, at times, a tad bizzare (trying to avoid 4 letter expletives here).
The easiest way I can think of to check the voltage at the ignition switch is to undo the 4 way AMP connector local to it and use something like a thin paper clip or a needle down the hole in the plug where the red wire goes into, on the loom side. Then put your pos probe onto said needle/paper clip. You should see 12Volts.
It will probably not be so easy to measure the volts on the outgoing wires from the ignition switch. You could check resistance across the switch, but sticking with volts for now. Connect the plug together, switch ON the ignition switch and check the voltage at fuses 6 & 7, you should be seeing 12 Volts. Next is to locate the Headlight Relay.
@docc as you know these machines any chance of a listing of which relay is which, physically on the bike because I'm clueless here?
Once you've found it remove the relay and check the voltage where the pink/blue wire goes into the relay socket (the ignition switch is still ON right?). It will be on the socket where either pin 1 or pin 2 plug into. Below is a diagram showing the pins on the relay, the V11 uses the 5 Pin Micro Relay.
If you're not sure which wire is which it doesn't matter one of the pins (either pin1 or pin2) should read 12 Volts and the other 0 Volts
When you've had time to have a go at it come back with some more info and we can see if any of us can up with more ideas on where to go next
John