If you have an IR camera or temp gun , run your bike down the road & back . Check temps at the exhaust pipes and see how close the temps are . I have temp guns and an IR camera .The camera is GREAT !
If it will start , I would say the crank angle sensor is ok . I am going to say to test TPS sensor . If you don't know how , just acknowledge it & we will help you .
# 1 remove anything that will give you a false clearance reading.
# 2 make sure one tooth is in the exact center of the sensor bore .
# 3 drop the new sensor into the bore and allow it to rest on top of the gear tooth .
# 4 measure the clearance between sensor flange and mounting surface .
# 4 add this # to the needed clearance and select the needed shim . Be liberal in adding the numbers .
# 5 this should have you ready to go !
Ah , we're from the same time zone ! I don't think they would have used a round retainer .. a lot of Japanese bikes used to use a round retaining ring w/a 90 on the end so you could get them off . the best method is a snap ring w/eyes on each end . Anyone that has worked on one of these can chime in and clarify . BTW There is no way that ring can out of the cylinder .
Wellll ,,,,, traditionally / historically , a gudgeon pin is the pin that holds the piston to the connecting rod . AKA , wrist pin . These were press fit , circlip and button retainer that held the pin in the piston .
I'm not sure about this ?
This screen is meant to keep large particles from entering the pump/hydraulic system . These particles , once they get into the system will damage the pump and attack the relief valve and any rotating parts that rely on pressurized oil for lubrication and clearance . If this pick-up is covered and smothers the supply , then you get no oil to the system and everything is destroyed . There are schools of thought that want no screens or similar coverings over the pick-up tube , Me , I like something over it .