gstallons

The silicone dielectric grease "keeps" the high voltage in the boot/spark plug connection along with forming a moisture seal . Another benefit is to allow the plug wire/boot to be re.moved easily when servicing.

Mine measured 8mmX110mm . You could use a 8mmX100mm if you want. Whem you remove this screw remember the nut is a jam nut and the pivot bolt hole in the frame is threaded . When you install the new bolt (grease the shifter bore w/grease) tighten it until you have the shifter tight in the pivot. Loosen the bolt until the shifter moves up and down freely. Then tighten the jam nut.

Not really. It is a home improvement/hardware/lumber store for the public.

The Marzocchi forks use a different fender and axle & whel bearings....lots to change !

Google Torrington bearing and you will see what they look like . They have two flat washers with a caged needle roller assy. between .

Just messin' around !

This screw is about 4'' long...Home Depot probably will not have it. Is there a Fastenal store in your area ? They will come closer to having it .

Derlin or Delrin ?

Your problem is probably the shifter pivot bolt. Loosen the 13mm jam nut on the inside of the frame. Then turn the bolt (socket head capscrew) to the left or right. If the shift lever moves with the screw , the bolt and lever are sticking together.Remove the bolt . Replace it with stainless if you have acces to stainless steel fasteners. If not, sand the rust off and grease it upon reasemnly. I let my bike set for 3 weeks waitng on a return spring to find this was my problem . Don't do the same thing as I did .

thanks for all the tips....illl try it this weekend...... just came back from the dealer, i bought a oil radiator bracket which was broken, 4 exhaust nuts because mine are rusty and bought a new breather hose and new clamps......is there a good way to wash away all the oil from engine that's been dripping to make sure the breather hose was the source of my leak?? thanks 3M makes the best engine degreaser of all time Part # 08899 . It is available at NAPA and other parts stores.

Just don't say " Timberrr " !

Go over every fastener that holds the driveshaft onto the splined shafts to see if they are loose. Jack the bike up off the ground and jam a screwdriver in the driveshaft at the rear u-joint and see if there is slack. Move to the front u-joint and do the same thing. If they are o.k. the problem is in the engine... Good luck !

That (choke) lever operates a throttle kicker . It is on the bottom of the r.h. throtle body.

You can remove and clean the neutral switch with an electrical contact cleaner. Lean the bike over to prevent too much gear oil loss. The shift lever pivot bolt rusts and the shift lever WILL stick in the down position. You will have a jam nut and the pivot bolt is threaded into the frame. The oil leak is probably the rubber hose from the frame to engine. The idle problem is best taken care of by an experienced MG person. Good luck !

If the magnets have come loose from the case , put the starter in a box and keep it for when something fails in the ( if it is the same) new starter.

Leave a note on the bike "this thing is nothing but trouble , it stays tore up all the time (think BSA Victor) and I have trouble getting parts and no one can fix it correctly so please steal it so I can collect on the insurance" ..... Do you think someone will steal it then ?

BMW airhead bikes will rust the clutch hub splines and the rust will act as an abrasive. The more the rust , the more wear takes place. This happens at a pace that the splines wear out and leave you stranded. This takes place at the rear wheel also. This is a common problem that is not easily corrected. Preventive maintenance is to remove and lubricate thes parts.

check the wheel bearings , inspect the brake pads and grease the driveshaft.

Probably not. Things are one object when the clutch is released.

Someone on this site installed a pull-type spring to hold the pawl up against the shift drum. It looks like "the fix". If mine fails , I am going that route.

Well, the best cure for this would have been a good coat of dry-film graphite spray on the splines. You could use ant-sieze but it would collect dust and bind ....

Just get them snug and retighten them before each ride for the next 4 times you ride. Check them occasionally after this. You will get accustomed to what is tight and too (snap or twisting off) tight is.

Yes.... It makes perfect sense.

He is correct. If it sounds terrible when you pull the clutch lever in, everything is working o.k.

I assume you have or you are going to remove the rear wheel to gain access to the slave cylinder ? You sould be able to remove this unit w/o having things fall off and not being able to get it back together. Just be deliberate while you are doing this.