Kiwi_Roy

www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle There bulb finder goes back to 96 for the Guzzis If you click on each of the selections it suggests an LED replacement They list a H4-HLV4-M fan-less headlight bulb for the VII Sport, anyone try it? One nice thing about LED headlights they only need 9 Volts to operate at full brightness, you can afford to lose a Volt or two in the wiring with no ill effect They have a 15% off Fathers Day sale at the moment The type 194-x-90 is a great replacement for the idiot lights, just glue it in place and solder wires directly to the lamp Substitute x with the letter for colour to match the bezel. There are a couple of little changes you have to make to the dash wiring You will need to add some resistance in the fuel level lamp, best done by using one of the old incandescent ones in parallel and if you only have one idiot for the flashers add a couple of diodes to prevent a cross feed. Replace the flasher unit to run LEDs in the indicators.

It also includes the Voltage drop in the headlight circuit which can vary quite a bit.

The ignition switch is easy Disconnect battery Negative for safety Look up from under the head-stock Remove the two Phillips screws toward the rear of switch and the switch block comes off in your hand Loosen the clips and remove the back. Loosen the odd clip and tilt out the white plate Wipe off the old grease Replace with fresh Vaseline Put back together Try to fix the wires to the back cover so they aren't able to flex near the solder joints or they will snap off in no time. I don't think it's possible to put the switch back together incorrectly. I see you are using Lanolin, I'm kind of curious about that, I have used Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly) for the last 50 years, perhaps Lanolin has some advantage? Neither grease is a conductor they lubricate to stop the parts wearing out and stop oxidation

Yes the fuel pump not priming is a key, makes me suspect the ECU is not getting power, the pump should run for about 2 seconds every time you turn the key On or cycle the kill switch, it does this based strictly on time independent of any sensors. If you have an electric petcock the fuse for that is a great spot to check, a bad sidestand switch will result in low or erratic Voltage there. They are very likely to fail. The sidestand switch is normally bypassed when the bike is in neutral so if it starts in Neutral and stops as soon as you select a gear bingo! The stand can be bypassed simply by pulling the relay and stuffing a wire into the 30 and 87 contacts, some other models use 30 and 87a but its obvious by looking into the relay base. Note: If you bypass the stand switch this relay serves no purpose whatsoever since you now have the contacts shorted out. I suspect your 2003 doesn't have a petcock so you need to tap into the wire going to the ECU relay, I have suggested adding a 12 Volt LED to the relay itself between 86+ & 85- (basically a "Go Winkie Light") Update Refer to Carl Allison drawing for the 2004 VII Sport Catalytic, http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif You can see that the Stand switch (40) is in parallel with the 30 & 87 contacts of the stand Relay (15) Why Guzzi call it the Stand relay is beyond me, IMHO it should be called Neutral relay BTW, there may be some differences between the Nth American and European wiring, but I suspect not too much.

Any time the tach stops working chances are the bikes not charging either because they both share the headlight relay for a supply. Sent from my shoe phone!

As Marty says check the high tension leads as follows Pull the caps off the plugs and measure resistance to chassis, should read about 8,000 Ohms I think. Whatever it reads should be the same on both sides. This checks the caps leads and coils in one go.I see you have done that already Don't discount bad plugs I have seen a couple of times where the relay bases look just fine but a connector hasn't clicked in properly, when the relay is inserted it makes intermittent contact, easy to check just push on each one with a small tool. One time when I had a bad regulator the bike would rev up, cut out, slow down a bit and repeat in a pretty consistent cycle but idled and low revs just fine. I figured the ECU was cutting out on over Voltage to protect itself.

Mitsubishi certainly have a good reputation. But your starter looks ok from what I can see Refresh that grease in the planetary gearbox then put it back together Test it out with 12 Volts. If you don't have a vice just put it on the floor and put your foot on itclip the negative jumper cable to the flange then touch the positive to the short jumper between solenoid and motor. That's applying Voltage directly across the motor. If that works next clip the positive lead to the solenoid where the Guzzi battery normally connects. With a short length of wire jumper between the solenoid trigger terminal and Positive.

Yes the SAE connector is much more convenient especially if you have several bikes and a car and only one charger, just have them hanging out so there's no need to remove covers or seat. The 10 Amp fuse will pop if you try to jumper (when cranking) the bike through it however. In true Guzzi style I found 2ft SAE extension cables, cut them in half, (the colours are odd on one half)

No doubt, I'm not disputing what you say, fitting the rubbers between the throttle bodies and pods removed a flat spot mid range on my bike. Pods attached directly to the throttle bodies look nice but they don't perform well. I have since tossed the pods because they were getting a little ratty and re-fitted the air box etc The PO removed the intake snorkles and ran with an open top, do they make a difference also?

I reckon what makes the stock air-box run so good is the intake rubbers between the throttle body and air-box These are like Velocity stacks. I used these to extend my pods and it removed the flat spot.

No, it sounds like the switch in the gearbox down by the starter, a brass strip that touches a bump on the shift drum. Try shorting the bolt on the gearbox to chassis (ground), should make the neutral light turn On

There's a company in Germany selling an after market regulator model DC-003 I suspect the wiring of this regulator may cause a short in the headlight circuit. If anyone has bought one of these please get in touch Cheers Roy

Why would you use battery clips on a bike, too easy to short out. I added a short lead with un-fused m/fm bullet connector on each bike to match the one on the charger. Why un-fused? It's also a convenient place to jump the battery from or to another bike, the fuse would pop I like to camp and its a handy place to plug in any cell chargers, heated gear etc

I bought s MyECU before Guzidiag was available and came up with the idea of tweaking the AFR while riding by applying an offset +/- 100 mV to the TPS Voltage thinking I would then be able to make a map change. I was surprised how little effect the TPS Voltage had on the AFR. I often puzzled over that. Sent from my shoe phone!

I have seen mine as high as 1.0 Volts it's normally ~0.6 Sent from my shoe phone!

I'm always miss reading numbers isn't there a name for that Zgukrakr91m113775 is on the sticker in manual Sent from my shoe phone!

Unplug the switch that would eliminate it as the redundant source. It must come through the ignition and I don't see it going through the start relay Sent from my shoe phone!

Before switching try adding a relay in the bucket to bypass the tiny wires to the bar switch, makes a huge difference

If you install LED turn signals and find all four flash at once it's the little dash light cross connecting left and right, easy fixed by adding a pair of diodes and connecting one side of the lamp to chassis (black wire) Left----->|-------\ |--------- Lamp ---------Chassis Right --->|------/

The bezel unscrewing is a surprise, so that's how they are able to re-do the face so cheaply. It's a microprocessor / stepper motor drive just a matter of selecting the right No of pulses using the pushbutton provided then you can unplug the button. I know, it's a man thing but you'll just have to read the instructions

No I would use the battery and a lamp if on the bike, I use the power supply when working on the bench Which brings me to another topic, I have an old Sears battery drill that requires 12 Volts, the battery gave out years ago but it works great clipped to the bike battery.

When I'm playing with stuff I power it from a current limited bench power supply set to about twice the current I need that way it's hard to damage anything. As an apprentice we had a 100 Watt 230 Volt lamp connected to a pair of probes, it was great for powering up small loads but a bit nasty if you accidentally made personal contact When you are working with a motorcycle battery you have a significant source of energy, it can do lots of damage if it gets shorted out. I like to use a bulb in series with the battery. When the lamp is cold it has almost no Voltage drop so will provide 12 Volts to the load but if you create a short the lamp lights up and the Voltage drops to next to nothing. Something like the Speedhut gauges could be powered through a tail light bulb, for heavier loads go to a headlight bulb or one with both filaments in parallel. At the very least you should have an in-line fuse.

Don't feel so bad, I've done it too, what went wrong? Sent from my shoe phone!

On the later VII the solenoid current passes through the switch that severely restricts the solenoid's ability to draw the starter into mesh. I did a test on an EV with a clean switch bypassing the switch halved the time to engage Sent from my shoe phone!

The relays are a standard format used by many autos. Clean your ignition switch if you haven't done that in 5 years, lube with Vaseline Sent from my shoe phone!