Chuck
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Everything posted by Chuck
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I've used super glue on them to good effect. (after proper prep, of course.)
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Cheesehead and Gordon have been doing this Guzzi thing for a long time.. and *know what they are doing.*
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really? I've never seen grips that weren't different sizes. I like pro grips gel, BTW. Takes out that little ticking in the bars. YMMV, of course.
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I'd say you need gorilla hands for the 1100 Spot.. but twitchy is a matter of degree. The early V11S turns in a *little* faster, but nothing like the Monza or Lario. 2016-08-18_02-45-05 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr
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I don't think so. Somewhere.. there is an intermittent connection. Take apart *every* connector in the charging system, clean, and spray DeOxit in them. Reinstall, wiggle around, etc.
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Found my setup. Like I said, it worked fine on the later version V11, didn't work without pulling the wheel on the early V11. 2017-03-21_12-21-46 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr Edit: You can see the end is ground down a little, too.
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I put 42000 on mine. The WP suspension was quite good, engine was a sweetheart, if high maintenance.
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Wow! That's *quite* a day's riding. Thanks for the pix.
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I've done it by a simple bent 1/8" pipe the grease fitting was screwed on to. Seems like I learned how to do it here. I'm guessing a search will find it. I'll go out in the Guzzi Garage and see if I still have it, or took it out to SoCal where I no longer need it.
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Ok, I'll take a stab. *I've never done this on the V11* but I'd bring the S cylinder up to TDC ready to fire. I'd install the phonic wheel so it had just gone past the sensor. That's just a SWAG, of course.
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As docc says, the most common failure is the regulator, caused by a poor ground. You can check the alternator at the yellow wires. They should show somewhere around 45 volts AC when the engine is running.
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Longer than you will.. There are *many* 50+ year old airplanes flying around with OEM breakers..
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I've seen the tach go crazy with low voltage on the veglias.
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I'd say definitely refit the bush..it's used as a dowel for location. all you have to do is drain the oil yet again..
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Yep.
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Well, it *looks* as if it might be right in the corner, but IMHO, isn't ground out enough yet.
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^^^ That's very generous of you Scud. If I had the need, I'd be on that like a chicken on a June bug..
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Actually, there is more to it than that. There is a thermal shock element, I think. At any rate, baking before welding is a better than good idea.
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It seems to me with my failing memory that Mike Haven from MPH posted the difference between the curves many years ago. From memory, it wasn't much.
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Depending on stock, etc.. that price is *easily* beatable.
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8MM is within a couple of thousandths of 5/16" I've found 5/16"X 4" so far..
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Just a quick look doesn't show any metric aluminum stock.. we're 'Mericans over here, you know. I can get 1/4" or 3/8" easily. I *could* cut down 3/8" to M8, but it would add a few dollars to the cost. It couldn't be immediate at any rate. My pup, Tylon has the CNC tied up for a while.
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It would certainly be easy enough to do. I love it when I can see a good picture..
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I think there is a company in England that has stolen the design and is repopping them..
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where can I get this mounting plate? just getting deeper and deeper now. But I am out of options, if my gearbox can't be fixed, the bike is toast. Ok ok, you drive a hard bargain. I'll give you a hunnerd bones for it. Shirley.. there is a transmission in a boneyard somewhere.. and.. I'm betting even I could weld it. Ok ok.. 200 dollars..
