Lucky Phil

Doesnt look 90 deg out in the image, maybe 45 deg. Ciao

Jackets and pants, they shrink over time. I've got a wardrobe full of gear thats shrunken, I'm thinking of trying to get a class action up against all these manufacturers. Ciao

Yes of course, a good refresher. Thanks Ciao

My friend at one point was modifying Harley pressure regs to be adjustable ( same ones as our bike runs) so you could easily richen the whole map. He accepted it was a band aid because he knows a lot about efi stuff but it was "good enough" for the Harley guys and actually solved the running issues they had at the time. I spent some time assembling them and setting them on the test rig. Ciao

Hopefully he'll chime in. Thinking about it docc the "overall richening" issue not being valid will be because at some points in the map and engine operating envelope the fuel pulse width and therefor delivery will actually be reduced at least not increased due to volumetric efficiency considerations at different rpm and load points. Ciao

Ok docc, I will be happy to stand corrected here but if you move the TPS to a higher voltage output for the same throttle plate position wont that be telling the ecu that the throttle is open a greater amount than it actually is and "by and large" give longer injector duration for a given rpm because it thinks the throttle is actually open more than it is? Thats always been my understanding, I might be wrong. You set the base TPS voltage with the throttle plates closed to give the ecu the shut limit and then it calculates throttle plate position from there. If say you have the plates closed but set the TPS voltage at 3 deg open the ecu will supply fuel or injector pulse width advanced 3 degrees across the board which would generally mean more fuel. I may have missed something here, others may know the details better. Ciao

Higher the voltage the more fuel. Ciao

Oh ok docc, my suspicions were wrong then. I have a bunch of FKM ( viton) seals now of various sizes to try its just my original tap that decided to start leaking when I refitted it has a cracked housing. ( the screw body of the housing is around .85 mm wall thickness so dont be too brutal with them) I currently have my slightly reworked spare fitted, the one that failed to shutoff a few years ago and created a big mess. Trying to decide weather of not to order a new tap and mod the body to take my reworked plunger with the new seals. When you consider exchange rates, shipping, GST and original costs its probably a $120au part that I'm going to pull to bits and it would take forever to get at the moment. I'll save it for a bigger parts order in the future I think and just hope the tap on it now closes when I pull the tank. Ciao

I think the original manual taps were probably good docc its I suspect the new non oem versions that have the swelling seals. You can easily tell the difference as the outlet on the OEM is orientated on the flat of the hexagonal body and the aftermarket is on the point of the body hex. Ciao

Nope. Yours actually has the series 2 60 degree outlet tap as opposed to the earlier 90 degree outlet tap. Here's the manual version that we all seem to use but like I said it has its issues. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=379&products_id=39 Ciao

Thats an electric petcock thats been messed with. It should have 2 wires going to it and be shut with power off. Looks like someone has modified it to stay open all the time. There is a nicely designed and poorly executed manual screw tap that most people seem to use in place of the electronic one. It was OEM on later V11's but the ones available now are a copy and use seals that dont tolerate fuel very well the upshot of which means that you need to use pliers to turn them after they've been fitted for a while. I'm working on a fix but I'm fully engaged researching EFI stuff at present. Ciao

Lovely shape. Ciao

Too much of a good thing Chuck. I'm glad you got the description right though, gaudy. Ciao

Perish the thought docc. In reality my colour bias has always been to vivid colours and in particular to Blue. I've always known I have a leaning to vivid colours but about year or two ago I became aware of the fact that the last 3 new cars I have owned were almost the exact same coloured blue as my very first car( a 1962 Falcon, USA Sprint) that I spray painted that very colour in 1975. Back then it was a very brave choice. Ciao

Yes docc water reflections can have amazing effect. Interesting details on the silver and its photography effects. I've always been a bit confused as to why I really love the Sport in silver in images but it never seems to translate to the same impression in the flesh. Its been my experience on more than one occasion. Now I know why. Colour is such an interesting subject from the perspective of highlighting or emphasising particular aspects or conversely minimising others but use of colour. I have no real idae about these things other than to know its real and an art practised by designers and artists. On my bike I knew the grey engine looked really good against the red Daytona RS bodywork but wasnt sure it would work with the Green. Ciao

Isn't test riding a new shifter spring an essential activity? It must be up there surely:) Ciao

Why do the silver bike photograph so well. Beautiful light you've caught there docc. Ciao

What, you park in front of a V11 bevel box pinion gear docc. Ciao

Sounds like Aussie bush engineering:) Ciao

I have a great deal of respect for what bloor did creating triumph from scratch. A few more like him and less entrepreneurs would make a better economy I think. I suspect you would be right, I hope so anyway. I owned 3 Triumphs in the 90's. The first was the original Speed Tripple which was a heavy thing and fairly basic engineering but decent quality as was required for launching a new company so I was pretty happy with it. The second 2 were the new Daytonas with the alloy frame from a few years later and quite frankly they were horrible. Both mine had to have the frames replaced, not for the well known failure of the clear finish but for other issues. The first one had a big ugly angle grinder scar across the frame in a really visible spot where the guy dressing the welds before the frame was painted slipped and marred it badly. Should never have made it through QC and the second one for a porous casting at the swingarm mounting point. Had to fight them on both counts legally but won. The bodywork on the first one had 2 different paint shades of the same colour, instruments that fogged up all the time( which I fixed successfully) and things like the airbox which looked like it was put together like a Lego kit. I used to call it the Hyundai Excel of motorcycles( which was really a disservice to the Excel) and if you knew nothing about the mechanical stuff you would probably think it was nice. Having said all that I had a great relationship with the deal;er and thought well maybe it was the old first model lemon so a year later I bought another new one. Mistake, it was just as bad with none of the quality issues addressed and had the porous frame casting. At the same time my mate had a customer that was racing one and he was taking care of the mechanicals and converting it to use a Motec ecu. I started finding out the internal mechanical details about the engine and realised that Triumph and I had different ideas about quality. The drive gear on the balance shaft on those second gen engines was a shrink fit on the shaft without a locating key or dowel and they used to move. The weight would then start clipping the rod bolt on #1 cylinder and the engine was scrap within a second. This used to happen with std bikes at track days not just race bikes. My mate used to pin the gear to prevent it on race engines. I mentioned to my dealer friend about this and they had a few customer bikes affected. That's when i gave up on Triumph quality. If you ever get a chance to buy or restore one of these old Daytonas I'd steer clear.Some of the basic stuff they never even supplied as spares parts, like valve guides. Ciao

Yes,without doubt. Thats the worst I've ever seen, apart from the one that ripped all the fingers off the basket and scattered them to the 4 winds. Ciao

Not all Ducati baskets are aluminium most std ones are steel.Inner hubs are aluminium for the most part on a steel splined inner section separated by rubber cushions. The rattle principle is the same though just less splines of one sort or another to gangle around. Ciao

I've never seen an automotive clutch that appreciates being disengaged when its not absolutely necessary. Ciao

Yes me too. I gave Chuck some leway as I'm from the southern hemisphere. Ciao

Yes Chuck, that's a good description. My clutch rattles pretty much like a Ducati at idle. When I start it up and its rattling if I "flick" the clutch lever (pull it in and snap it back sharply) it quietens it down about 75 percent as the plates re orientate themselves at opposite sides of the splines. Stays relatively quiet until I pull it in again and hold it or ride it and they both align again on the one side of the spline due to friction and load. I'll let you know what a single plater sounds like when I get the new engine running. If knumbnutz bike has a silent twin plate clutch then it should be in the Guzzi museum:) Ciao